Piotr’s annual visit to Poland was all about family business, but always opportunity to see and try a few things. In essence, revisiting places after many years. Kraków, Książ Castle, Cieplice Zdrój and Jelenia Góra, Szklarska Poręba (just short car tour of Karkonosze Mountains), Perła Zachodu , Siędlecin Tower, no free time in Warszawa or Świdnica. And checking out new restaurants and coffee shops.
Barbakan, Kraków
Wawel Royal Castle, Kraków
Beef Wellington with forest mushrooms, Nota Resto, Kraków
We drove 3600 miles and stayed in 16 places, 8 campgrounds and 8 motels/airbnbs. All in 23 days. Joanna had a good plan where to go and what to see, but we made specific decisions each day. We left cold weather in Chicago and arrived in sunny Florida with temps reaching 90ºF. April is already beginning of low season here – some sites were preparing to shut down for the summer (too hot). We avoided big crowds, but were still able to observe a few manatees in the wild. No problems finding places to overnight (campgrounds were mostly empty). As for Subaru camping, additional moonroof ventilation would be good on hot nights, but we did not have anything to use as insect screen. No car mechanical problems this time.
Our main destination was National Parks: Everglades, Biscayne and Congaree – we added 3 to our list of visited Parks (new total 39 out of 63). Did not make it to Key West, as originally planned. On this trip we spent more time than usual visiting several cities and museums, but also did many short day-hikes and spent a lot of time watching wildlife: birds, alligators, crocodiles and of course manatees. We are becoming bird-watchers (beginners) – on this trip we watched, photographed and identified 37, others flew by too fast. Spent almost full day at Kennedy Space Center.
Completed itinerary
Destinations
Overnight
Mar
23
Sun
1
Chicago-Nashville, I-94, I-65
IL-IN-KY-TN
Nashville Music Row airbnb
24
Mon
2
Nashville
TN
Nashville Music Row airbnb
25
Tue
3
Birmingham, Montgomery
AL
Montgomery airbnb
26
Wed
4
Montgomery
AL-FL
Tate’s Hell State Forest Cash Creek CG
27
Thu
5
Manatee Springs
FL
Manatee Springs SP Magnolia 1 CG
28
Fri
6
Manatee Springs
FL
Manatee Springs SP Magnolia 1 CG
29
Sat
7
Crystal River, Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park
We had full day of walking in Savannah – Joanna’s favorite town. We left our car at The Isetta Inn and just looped around stoping at countless squares with old oaks, lush greenery and antebellum mansions.
Pulaski Square
Pulaski monument in Monterey Square
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Forsyth Park
Sherman’s Headquarters – Green-Meldrin House
Colonial Park Cemetery
Georgia Queen, Savannah River Waterfront
River St
Savannah City Hall
Chippewa Square / Forrest Gump Square
The Gingerbread House, Thomas Square
Forsyth Park
We tried to have lunch at famous Mrs. Wilkes, but line was waaay too long, so we restocked at Kroger, visited Bonaventure Cemetery and headed out to Best Western Inn in Charleston, with brief rest stop at Frampton Plantation.
Bonaventure Cemetery
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Day 19.
We worried about parking in Charleston center, it was packed, but finding paid street parking was not impossible. We parked in three locations to explore different neighborhoods, waterfront and slave trading museum (Ryan’s Mart). A lot of history, from English colonial times, slave trade and antebellum, and Civil War.
King St
Meeting St
St. Michael’s Church
Williams Mansion
Battery St
Rainbow Row
Pineapple fountain, Waterfront Park
Waterfront Park Pier
Ryan’s Mart – slave trading complex
Dock Street Theatre
Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon
Charleston City Market
Early dinner at Oyster House Seafood & O-Bar, southern style, very good. After dinner we started 1000-mile return home (via Knoxville and Cincinnati), with stops. First at Poinsett State Park Campground (recommended). Little time for short local walks.
Sea scallops
Shrimp boil
Poinsett Park Campground
Day 21-23.
We spent most of the following day at Congaree National Park walking 8-miles including open sections of Boardwalk, Sims and Oakridge trails. The park has the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest in U.S. and many state and national champion trees.
Congaree National Park
Boardwalk
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We parked for the night at Brick House Campground (recommended). Nice, quiet and relaxing evening with campfire. Next day we crossed Smoky Mountains, wonderful scenery reminding us past visits and hikes in the National Park. Stopped for interesting lunch at popular Biscuit Head for more southern cuisine and grocery shopping in Asheville. Joanna could not resist to use Piotr’s driver break to walk a mile on Appalachian Trail (from Tobes Creek Rd). Motel stay at Berea Comfort Inn & Suites. To keep with our tradition we stopped at KFC while in Kentucky to get fried chicken. Chicago. The End.
Brick House Campground
Fried Green Tomato Biscuit, Biscuit Head Asheville
Before leaving Everglades for Miami we decided to go for another walk: to Bear Lake (3.5 miles return). But first we had to drive to trailhead on dirt road along Wilderness Waterway, the same road where we saw nest-building crocodile the day before. It was no longer there, probably better as we would not like to disturb it driving by so close. The trail goes through dense vegetation along small canal reclaimed by nature to muddy shores of Bear Lake. Altogether we spent 6 days in Big Cypress and Everglades, plenty of time to explore.
Bear Lake Trail
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Bear Lake
By the end of the day we arrived at Miami River Inn (recommended) in Miami Little Havana neighborhood, after slowly driving just 80 miles and stopping on the way in Coral Gables (famous Miami suburb) for a short stroll.
Church of the Little Flower, Coral Gables
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Biltmore Hotel Miami Coral Gables
After some delay we checked-in to comfortable apartment. Then walked around like locals with laundry and shopping bags, to Brickell Cleaners & Coin Laundry and Presidente Supermarket. Chose 305 Peruvian Modern Cuisine for dinner (Aquadito de mariscos and ceviche mixto). Plus tropical fruit for desert at home. Well deserved.
Ceviche mixto
Caimito (star apple)
Sapodilla
Red Alama (llama)
Day 15.
We spent most of the day in Miami Beach, crossed Miami River and took bus from there. It was fun to watch wild roosters with chicken parading in the middle of big city.
It was beautiful Sunday and we were just meandering along and between Ocean Dr, Collins Ave, Washington Ave and South Beach with many people, looking at Art Deco buildings, with stops for coffee, ice cream and swimming. Subtle pastels and whites; famous (saturated) Miami Pink seen only in ice cream cups and small accessories. Laid back atmosphere with signs of preparation for beach parties, but restaurants already packed. We are often surprised by lack of simple changing places on public beaches, no exception here.
Ocean Dr Miami Beach
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Washington Ave
Ocean Dr-South Beach
South Beach
The Orange Peels park
Miami River and downtown
Cuban Classical Ballet of Miami
In the evening, our first try of Cuban cuisine at Habana con B (recommended) in Little Havana neighborhood. We were there early and had the place pretty much for ourselves. Great food and opportunity to talk about Cuba.
Aporreado de pescado – shredded boiled fish in sauce, Yuca con mojo – boiled yuca, Platanito maduro fritos – fried sweet plantain (left photo)
Evening walk up and down Calle Ocho – heart of Little Havana.
Habana con B
Calle Ocho
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Day 16.
Next morning we navigated to Wynwood Walls (murals) around NW 25th St and NW 3rd Ave. After few loops and photos we got on I-95 north.
Another slow driving day, just 200 miles to Coco Beach. Driving through Miami metropolitan area and then on major highway was not interesting, but at the end it got much better – across Indian River Lagoon and along the coast. We decided to settle at Travel Inn of Titusville, nicely renovated apartment in roadside motel from the sixties. Road noise bothered Joanna, but location was very convenient, close to Kennedy Space Center.
The plan was to go swimming, but weather was not cooperating so we spent hour and a half walking on sandy beaches: Pineda and South Coco Beach (Robert P. Murkshe Memorial Park). Collecting shells and observing juvenile Atlantic ghost crabs popping-up everywhere. Very relaxing afternoon.
Atlantic ghost crab (juvenile)
Pineda Beach
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South Coco Beach
Day 17.
Technology day at Kennedy Space Center and it was worth it. It turn out we had many snippets of information about space exploration and it was perfect set-up the get the information illustrated and organized. Stayed at Anastasia State Park Campground.
Day 18.
Walking on wide beaches and sand dunes of Anastasia State Park (recommended) was nice counterpoint to rocket science. We were learning about protected bird nesting habitat and then tried to identify different species on the beach.
Anastasia State Park beach…
…dunes
Gopher tortoise
St Augustine took us a bit by surprise. Crowded with tourists (impossible to find street parking) but still nice. We visited Castillo de San Marcos fort – interesting history and place to learn more about town claiming to be the oldest in U.S.
Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine
Castillo de San Marcos National Monument
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St Augustine
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Casa Monica Resort & Spa
We left Florida and at the end of the day we got first feel of Georgia staying at The Isetta Inn (recommended) in Savannah – old houses/mansions converted into airbnb complex. High quality, interesting set-up. And opportunity to talk to other travelers in shared kitchen at dinner time.