One week in Tulum
November 2-9
It was a quick decision to go to Mexico on direct United flight from Chicago to Tulum. Easy to organize at last minute, expecting reasonable weather, lesser crowds and lower prices during low/shoulder season. First day was just travel, settling down and grocery shopping. We selected modern studio apartment at Casa del Arbol (recommended). Located in Tulum Centro away from Zona Hotelera along the beach we didn’t visit, but close to everything else (ADO bus station, celectivo stops, shops, restaurants and Chedraui Supermarket). It was excellent, well organized and very clean. Joanna did not like noise of passing cars and motorcycles at night, not a problem for Piotr. We examined DÃa de Muertos decorations and we ate Pan de Muerto in the evening watching motorcycle parade along our street trying to wake-up somebody (?).
Next day we took colectivo to Tulum ruins and spent half a day there. Colectivos here are convenient and inexpensive mode of transportation, easier to use than in South America. The scene approaching and at park entrance was quite chaotic. We just moved with the flow, waited in two lines to buy tickets and pay “tax” (not too bad), went through “environmental” check-point (had to throw away every piece of plastic they found in our backpacks and yes, they asked us to remove energy bar wrappers too). We asked about, but rejected guided tour offers (very dynamic pricing). Once inside, it was just walking around in well organized and maintained park with many visitors on sunny Sunday. Open sea proximity and views made it even more pleasant experience.
Structures here are quite different from all other Mayan ruins we have visited, both in shape – rectangular buildings not pyramids, and location on ocean cliff – not in flat jungle. Afterwards we went for a swim and walk on the beaches, hard to resist after hot day at the ruins. The coral reef is very close (short boat ride from the beach) and we decided to try to come back for snorkeling.
We liked tropical plants surrounding ruins and enjoyed watching iguanas, Yucatan jays and Great-tailed grackles. A predatory bird was circling in the sky above. We ended the day with seafood dinner at Sabor de Mar and Mexican craft beer in our comfy apartment.
Day 3. We are in Yukatan, we must snorkel/swim in cenotes. Short colectivo ride and shuttle into jungle and we were at Cenotes Yax-Muul. We first explored three cave cenotes with entertaining guide, Joanna rappelled down into one of them and then we went back to swim some more on our own. Water was very clear and at most time there were no or not too many people nearby (except for rappelling) making it an interesting experience.
Day 4. Sian Kaʼan Biosphere Reserve: boat tour of brackish water lagoons and mangroves watching wildlife. Plus soaking in Caribbean Sea at Punta Allen beach followed by lunch in local restaurant. The sea was too rough for snorkeling at coral reef. We were lucky to see several (West Indian) manatees hanging around underwater cenote. They appeared for a few seconds at a time to breath, we gave-up on taking pictures and just observed them. We spent some time with two pods of (Bottlenose) dolphins, watched turtles and crocodiles. We circled around Isla Pajaros to watch birds. In addition to what we captured on film (below), we saw vultures, cormorants, ibis and other birds, and another, this time very large crocodile parked at red mangrove edge.
We went with ☞ Mexico Kan Tours (recommended), after extensive on-line and in person investigation. Good decision: everything was well organized and relaxed, guides were good and engaged, groups were small, we were quite lucky with wildlife, but wished conditions were good for snorkeling. The entire tour was from 7 am pick-up to 4.30 pm drop-off with 6-hour and 80-km boat part.
Day 5. Kind of slow day. Joanna was looking for open cenotes to swim in, found deep Cenote Cristal with fish and turtles. Many open cenotes were closed because of recent rains. Piotr was resting.
Day 6. More Mayan ruins, this time in Coba. We took Oriente bus from ADO terminal. Upon arrival at the archeological park, we were approached by many people offering services (guides, bike rentals, bike “taxis”) frequently, but not overwhelming like in many other tourist destinations. Coba was reminiscent of other Mayan sites we visited in Guatemala and Belize. Easy walking on old Mayan roads (stone causeways) shaded by trees between excavated/restored structures with many more unexcavated piles of stones hiding in the jungle. Coba was a large center with history going back two thousand years, great influence at its peak and competing with Chichen Itza. It was abandoned by mid 16th century. There are many reasonably preserved structures/pyramids to explore (climbing them is no longer permitted), but stelas are quite aged. Access to Nohoch Mul pyramid (tallest in Coba) was restricted by construction of new viewing platforms.
We took colectivo on the way back. We found the stop, but asked around about departure times with mixed results. One person knew the correct answer and we soon were back in Tulum. We each had 4 tacos for dinner at Taqueria Maya on Sagitario Oriente: tasty, with different ingredients and flavors.
Day 7. Snorkeling at coral reef and swimming at Tulum beaches. We traveled by colectivo to Tulum ruins again (and later back), but this time we went straight to Playa Paraiso and all other beaches. Line to check point was very long, but at least we were ready without a trace of plastic in our backpacks. Joanna took 2-hour boat trip arranged on Pescadores beach to snorkel at two locations on coral reef: many fish species including large stingrays and many turtles. Plus an opportunity to see Tulum ruins from the sea. Piotr spent time relaxing, swimming and watching beach life. Documented 8 different bird species visiting that day. To visit the beaches, one has to either pay entrance fee (“tax”) like us or visit one of the beach clubs lining the shore (the boat trip was from one of them).
On the way home, we stopped at Tamales Don Taco on Centauro Norte (recommended) to pick-up dinner: 8 tamales in several different varieties (mostly chicken). We ate them in the evening with more bear preparing for the return trip next morning. The tamales were very large, fresh, tasty and with different flavors. Wrapped in real banana leaves. Throughout our visit we tried a dozen beers and left tequila/mescal tasting for next time.
We felt safe moving around Tulum and having good base (our apartment) to rest at the end of the day made the trip relaxed and comfortable. Our interactions with local people were friendly and helpful as we were trying to find our way around. Some chaos and sale attempts/tricks at touristy sites were not too surprising and did not affect us much. We liked traveling on colectivos, no-nonsense and inexpensive approach to quickly move people around. Buses were on time and efficient even though buying tickets at the terminal was unbelievably slow (better to buy on-line). Long-term weather forecasts were not reliable. We expected more rain, but we had great sunny or partially sunny days.
Last day was just travel: colectivo to ADO bus terminal, bus to all new and modern Tulum (Felipe Carrillo Puerto) airport for flight back to Chicago. Everything on time and without problems.
Day 48-52: Carter and Crescent Lakes-Exit Glacier and Harding Icefield-Seward and Northwestern Glacier-Ptarmigan Lake-Kenai Lake
July 31-August 4
We stopped briefly at Seward and Sterling Hwy crossroads to look at the wetlands (Tern Lake) and decide where to go first – we continued south towards Seward. Experienced ranger at Kenai Lake Ranger Station patiently answered all our questions with good recommendations where to hike and camp. Probably the first person not really trying to instill bear panic in us. In no time we started hiking to Carter and Crescent lakes (11 km return, 370 m gain, recommended). Sunny weather, stream, lakes and flowering meadows between rows of mountains – very beautiful. Ran through short stretches of mosquito territory to slowly enjoy Alpine (like) habitat. Few people we met were trout fishing, some using barbless hooks not to hurt the fish (catch-and-release). To end the day, we drove to Primrose campground at the end of Kenai Lake. Warm day before returning to glaciers.
After slow start and visit at Exit Glacier Nature Station (missed ranger walk) we were hiking to Harding Icefield (19 km return, 1050 m total altitude gain, recommended). We knew it would take the rest of the day. At face value it looked like well maintained, moderate trail just up and up. It turn out to be quite hard and steep. We came back tired and camped nearby on Resurrection River gravel flats (decent wild site recommended by the ranger). It was good hiking day with weather changing from good to clouds, fog and freezing drizzle. We had good views of Exit Glacier and (between clouds) Harding Icefield. The trail tops quite high on the mountain slope, but still we could only get a glimpse of the edge the enormous ice field.
Good weather in the morning encouraged us to go directly to Seward to book boat trip to one of the tidewater glaciers. It worked. With tickets in hand we had plenty of time to go back and explore Exit Glacier some more – this time from the bottom (gravel flats). We were not in big hurry, stopped at Le Barn Appetit Inn & Creperie for good, old fashioned, hand made crepes (recommended) and meandered around the base of the glacier. Looking at date markers one has no doubt glaciers are retreating. Viewpoints were designed/built a while ago and now are not close to ice flow anymore.
We already had room at Nauti Otter Inn booked for the night not to waste time before 8:30 am boat departure (from Stewart, only short drive away) next morning. The inn was very well organized, with shared kitchen and dinning room, very nice host, good hostel vibe. Old wood structure was not too good at blocking noise even from normal activity.
Boat trip from Seward to Northwestern Glacier was one of the highlights of our entire trip. We decided to go with ☞ Kanai Fjords Tours (recommended) and chose longer (8-hr) trip on Ocean Explorer to Northwestern Glacier. Surrounding high mountains have many glaciers flowing down from the same Harding Icefield, but rocky shores and small islands are great habitat for birds and other animals, waters are rich too. We saw humpback whales feeding in group, seals and sea lions, otters, porpoises, eagles, puffins, black-legged kittiwake, common murre and other birds. Blue water and dark rocks surrounding fjords. With calm seas it was pleasant excursion.
In the afternoon we had time to walk around town and for dinner at (packed) Flamingo Lounge (tanner crab and halibut). And to buy inexpensive fishing gear at Bay Traders. It was time to go back. We made it only to Trail River Campground – for us one of the best state campgrounds in Alaska (recommended).
Next morning we drove just across the highway and hiked Ptarmigan Lake Trail, first on old road along the creek, then higher above the valley floor (11 km return, total 210 m gain). Saw only a few people including small group of young summer workers improving the trail (cutting down overgrown vegetation). We stopped again at Tern Lake to watch salmon and this time turned west to Sterling Highway. After driving around Lake Kenai (Copper Landing) we found wild-camping spot, Joanna’s wish. We did not risk bringing our car to the beach (bad end of access road wasn’t really that risky), but cooked dinner and went for a short walk on the shore.
Days 43-47: Talkeetna-Hatcher Pass-Eklutna Lake-Anchorage-Alyeska-Chugach National Forest
July 26-30
The following five days we were driving south towards Kenai Fjords National Park without any specific plan where to stop. Of course we wanted to see Denali one more time from one of the view points along the highway, but weather was clouds and rain all day. Made it to Talkeetna late afternoon and stayed in very good all new Talkeetna Cabin (recommended). We had no electricity for a few hours, so we just walked around the small, but quite famous town. Visited small museum and old cemetery. Dinner and laundry was late. Next morning the weather improved somewhat and we heard Denali sightseeing planes taking off. We looked across Susitna River where the mountain is, but decided to move on as clouds were still dense. We were then supposed to get back to wilderness and wild-camp somewhere near Hatcher Pass (along Willow Fishhook Road). Scenery was nice and weather much better, but the road was packed, in places bumper-to-bumper (Saturday). We managed to find parking spot at the pass, looked around a bit but decided against open trail to the summit in a bitterly cold wind. Instead we spent the rest of the day visiting Independence Mine (State Park). It was good choice, the mostly outdoor museum is interesting and we learned about different method of gold mining. As always, Piotr photographed all old, rusting machines.
Small “campgrounds” down the road turn out to be regular parking spots on small road-side lots, rented at night for a fee. Not appealing for us and most already taken anyway, nice Finger Lake campground was full as well (Saturday). We tried a couple other options, but ended up driving to Eklutna Lake, which was on our destinations list. Found last double-spot site for the first night, but stayed at the campground for two nights. The campground has good location and layout, but the infrastructure is dilapidated, some toilets were upgraded, fee collection station was new and top-notch technology.
Eklutna Lake starts between smaller mountains, quite green meadow. The far end goes deeper into Chugach Mountains where bigger, snow-patched mountains are (2000 masl) . With no rain or strong wind good day for kayaking – we used the day to paddle about half-way to the other end of the lake, ~6 km (12 total). Moved to a different/better camping spot and cooked dinner. Next morning we visited native village of Eklutna with interesting native/Russian Orthodox cemetery and headed to Anchorage. Visit to Anchorage Museum (Alaska-centric, recommended) then stop at Ship Creek to watch salmon fishing. Grocery shopping and getting rain pants for Piotr from REI. Joanna found nice Airbnb, one of those places where you can still meet and talk with the (very nice) owners.
Seward Highway from Anchorage to Portage runs right on the water’s edge (Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet), with several viewpoint stops. Muddy tidal plains and Chugach Mountains in the background. We could not agree on short hikes until it was time for mid-day coffee – found a good coffee shop in Girdwood and drove up the valley road to Alyeska Resort. The valley was devastated by 1964 earthquake. Once we saw cable-car to the top of the mountain, the decision was quick: spend a few hours wandering above the top cable-car station on the slopes of Mt Alyeska.
We ended the day at Granite Creek Campground, along Seward Highway, but deeper inland and into Church National Forest. Nice spot, few people, small creek behind the site, campfire, salmon and Alaskan beer for dinner, good view on surrounding meadows and mountains. No bears.
Days 39-42: Denali National Park
July 23-26
First 20 km section of Denali Park Road, from camground at park’s entrance to Savage River is open to private cars. The road runs at the bottom of wide valley covered with green taiga (dense shrubs, but fewer trees than in other places) surrounded by small mountains (1000-2000 masl) with bare tops. We stopped at viewpoints. One is designed to watch Denali mountain, which at first we could not see despite sunny weather. Until we realized that what looked like fuzzy white clouds high above everything else is the snow covered mountain (picture below is slightly enhanced). Very impressive even from 115 km away. After all it is the highest mountain on Earth from base to top (5500m).
Denali is for wilderness hiking with very few managed trails, Savage River Loop and Alpine Trails among them. We were lucky to find parking spot, warmed-up walking a few hundred meters along Savage River and then hiked 7 km (500 m total ascent) Alpine Trail finishing down the main road from where park shuttle took as back to our car. Parking lot was full but the crowd dispersed quickly, with few people higher up on the trail which tops above alpine meadows (quite steep in places). Great views all around.
We decided to stay at the park for four nights. Driving on top of other activities and daily chores started to wear Piotr down. Campground was full, but did not feel overcrowded. We had good spot, flush toilets and washrooms nearby, central showers and laundromat, ranger stations, restaurant. We avoided driving long distances.
Park shuttle goes 50 km further on the park road beyond Savage River (closed for private cars) to East Fork Toklat River. Beyond this point the road is closed for repairs after landslide a few years ago. No chance to get any closer to Denali (and other higher mountains) for a closer look. We took hikers shuttle as far as it goes, saw many animals but no grizzly bears. Now it was all day for wilderness hiking. To be honest, rather hiking at the wilderness’ edge as we did not stray too far from the road, even if off trail,.
First, we spent 2.5 hours walking 4-5 km on gravel flats of Toklat River and its tributary. We just meandered aimlessly between small streams. At some point we tried to go across the flats to climb out on a small hill, but once we got there we discovered small side stream too deep and fast for dry crossing. Colorful (yellowish) sandy hills called polychromes, as it turns out, are held together when frozen. Once the permafrost melts landslides occur: one closed the road and another recent one is next to Toklat River bridge.
The way wilderness at Denali works is, you take the shuttle and ask the driver to stop whenever you want, and you hike. We did just that. We decided to explore an area around a chasm cutting into Cathedral Mountain, but rather than walking at the bottom we hiked up the hill to see it from higher up. We missed the best spot as it was difficult to decide where to get off the bus. The side of the road is quite steep around here. As we were standing on the road, shuttle gone, debating how to get down to Igloo Creek, a large caribou (reindeer) bull appeared and started fast walking in our direction, freezing when it finaly saw us. We quickly moved to the other side of the road pushed into steep, rocky slope hoping the reindeer would prefer to disappear into the greenery. Which it did and a minute later we heard sloshing as it was running up and down the stream. We followed the lead dry-crossing the stream after mild bushwacking. On small clearing on the other side we saw fresh bear scat (sloshing sound playing in the background) and decided to quickly go straight up to the open meadows, which we wanted to do anyway. Altogether we spent 2.5 hours walking just 2-3 km, a lot off zig-zagging around local obstacles and muddy spots. We walked-up to a steep edge from where we looked into the chasm. Piotr shot video, Joanna walked further up to the meadow’s edge. From this point it was easy to plan return route. We just walked downhill, bushwhacked our way through vegetation near the creek and returned to the road on small trail used to walk to the bottom of the chasm. Park shuttle picked us up shortly. It was a great day, although we wished to have more off-trail experience.
Next day was a slow day. We drove to Savage River again, a relaxing experience, walked on easy but crowded loop trail and returned for late afternoon presentation at sled dog kennels. Joanna managed evening walk to Horseshoe Lake. Started packing for departure in the morning, as weather forecast predicted rain (our car was parked a few hundred meters from our walk-in campsite).
