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Colorado day 13-20: Colorado Trail from Silverton to Durango

August 4-11

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We spent 8 days hiking SOBO (southbound) Segments 25-28 of the Colorado Trail from Silverton (Little Molas Lake Trailhead) to Durango (Junction Creek Trailhead): 118 trail kilometers (~15 km per day on average) and 3 km total elevation gain. The actual distance walked was 145 km, if also counting side-walks to viewpoints, scouting for campsites, getting water, walking to restaurants last evening etc. ~18 km per day on average. Trail is well maintained and quite easy with gentle slopes, except a few short steeper stretches. The elevation drop between Little Molas Trailhead and Durango Trailhead is 1200 m, most of it in just one day (our day 7). Going NOBO would make it all that much more difficult. John Muir Trail, our reference, has many more longer and steeper ups and downs.

We started with quite heavy load carrying food for 9 days, camping equipment, but not so much of personal belongings (streamlined with each hike). We were well prepared for wet weather (typical for this time of year), but did not have to use rain gear (nothing to complain about). We had no problem sourcing water in well described places, but decided to dry-camp on three occasions to split distances more evenly. We had no problem finding good campsites when we needed them, again in well described places. Campsites (and trail) were clean, except just few unpleasant surprises. We used The Colorado Trail from FarOut for up to date information. For off-line navigation, trail distance calculations and recording POIs Piotr used Organic Maps. We had cellular reception in some places, but then nothing for miles.

Many people were hiking the entire Colorado Trail. Quite a few day hikers on weekend. Trail is also used by mountain bikers (we met many) and horses (saw just a couple). We enjoyed social interactions on the trail, talked to many hikers and bikers. We met three bears (two quite close), mule deer (some grazing meters from our tent), marmots, pikas. We saw and heard many birds mostly around areas with water. Landscape and views were changing, more diverse than can be gleaned from small selection of pictures, but they tell the story well.

Day 13, hiking day 1

Our very nice hosts from Columbine Roadhouse (we left our car there) drove us in the morning to Little Molas Lake Trailhead at 3320 masl. With good energy and despite heavy backpacks (food for 9 days) we managed to walk 15 km to our first camp at 3700 masl, near small pond at Engineer Trail Junction. We actually walked a couple of km more than planned as we ignored good water source from West Lime Creek and then had to go all the way to the pond (standing water, but usable) – we were quite tired. Staying closer to the pass made our next morning easier. Unsurprisingly we felt some altitude effects the first night, not too bad – all the acclimatization day-hikes prepared us well. Trail was beautiful and diverse, through forest, valleys, meadows, great views.

Day 14, hiking day 2

It was only 1.5 km and 100 m up to Rolling Mountain Pass, 3806 masl – the highest point of our entire trail. We then walked down to Cascade Creek. A nice spot to get water, soak feet, snack and relax a bit. Perfect sunny weather. We walked a short distance further and parked for the night at nice spot near small stream with good water. It was the shortest day, just 11 km, but we had time to cook and watch a couple of mule deer circling around us grazing. After two days of good weather, we were more relaxed about possibility of frequent passing storms and showers for which we prepared ourselves before the trip. This section had plenty of beautiful views of colorful volcanic peaks and highs meadows in full bloom.

Day 15, hiking day 3

We were entering segments of Colorado Trail where sourcing water required good planning, to carry just enough for hours and dry camping if necessary – the trail stays high above creeks in the valleys below. We first crossed over Sliderock Ridge shoulder to Bolam Lake. Rested, took some water. But we somehow did not refill at next stream (mistake), then there was no water except in unappealing small pond so we continued to Silver Creek on the slope of Blackhawk Mountain where we planned to camp. Running dry, we were happy to stop at first sight of dripping water in a small stream crossing the trail. Then we looked around and saw great camping spot a bit off trail – as it turn out right on Silver Creek proper full of good water. The trail crossed the creak couple hundred meters later. 15 km day. More great views, clear air and beautiful weather.

Day 16, hiking day 4

Once we hiked a couple of miles over Blackhawk Mountain shoulder to the second crossing of Straight Creek, we knew there was no reliable water for 14 more miles, too far for us. We were ready, filled-up to capacity (7.5 L for two) and just walked with extra load. Total 14 km for the day to next (dry) camp by Divide Road. The trail is easy, intersects with the mountain road running on top of long ridge with steep drop-offs on one side. Great views over the valleys of more distant rocky peaks. People come up here in 4wd vehicles and camp (nobody camping that day), some leave containers with water for hikers – we got a couple of extra liters. The trail runs across open meadows and forested areas. It was in one of those areas with dense vegetation that Joanna saw a small black bear running towards her. Nothing to be scared of, it turned around and ran away quickly at first sound of humans. It was a young bear and Piotr had an explanation – the bear felt lonely and was looking for company. We had no choice, but to chase it away (for its own good).

Day 17, hiking day 5

We continued hiking on the ridge, then down to Deer Creek where we filled-up water to capacity again and up to Deer Creek Overlook where we (dry) camped. Total 14 km for the day. Bringing water to the camp was just short stretch up, but we needed water for the evening and next day as well. Overlook has great camp spots with views, first time we had several tents nearby. We settled in an open area on what looked like rocky peninsula above the valleys, hiding from possible wind gusts behind some vegetation. We saw smoke from new fire which was spreading because of high winds. The smoke was much more intense in the evening (prevailing wind), but mostly cleared by late morning. Impossible to get crisp photos of distant mountains. Luckily the trail lead us away from the most affected area.

Day 18, hiking day 6

Indian Trail Ridge with second highest point of our trail at Efendi Peak 3736 at its end. This was the first day when we really felt tired, first carrying extra load (water), then on a couple of steeper sections. More difficult than we expected, rocky, steep, several ups and downs, very windy – but also amazing views. We were lucky with another sunny day as this ridge is known for frequent storms. Just 12 km for the day, but it was planned that way as we wanted to camp at Taylor Lake anyway. After we walked down to the lake and scouted for campsite we already recovered. Went on short strolls to the lake and small waterfall on the outlet to get water and to look around. Tents were scattered around, rather than crowded in one spot. Great place to rest. Small herd of mule deer came around for evening meal not really paying much attention to people.

Day 19, hiking dat 7

Kennebec Pass at 3580 masl (start of Segment 28, the last one), nice views of mountains and old mine. From the pass to Junction Creek at 2620 masl is quite a drop in altitude (940 m in 11 km). The trail is good so it was not a big problem – we were more stressed just watching bikers pushing their bikes uphill. It was weekend plus a bike race, more people in this easy to reach section. At Junction Creek we took water and decided to go a bit further and uphill. After entering forest the trail was less interesting – we decided to complete our trek the following day so wanted to make it more reasonable (shorter). We started asking other hikers and bikers about transportation from trailhead to Durango. We got good feedback and an offer from Durango bikers to come pick-us up, if everything else failed. Total for the day 17 km. We selected a nice spot for the last campsite, technically dry, but between small streams with running water within less than a mile. For the third night we happened to camp near the same hiker – had great time chatting with him.

Day 20, hiking day 8

Easy, but longer 20 km day. After slowly gaining some 150 m it was all downhill to the Junction Creek Trailhead (2130 masl). Not too interesting, cutting through dry pine forest with oak shrubs. Carried enough water for the day from small stream near our last camp. Meeting small black bear feasting on acorns and oak shoots 50 m from the trail became the highlight of the day. Saw another one further away a bit later. Last task was to find 5-mile ride from the trailhead to Durango and a place to stay. Fellow hiker helped us with both. We got a ride all the way to Straton Hotel (recommended) which was great, comfortable, historical and close to the train station. After showers we had time and still enough energy left for a walk around, dinner at Nini’s Taqueria (recommended) and beer at Carver Brewing (recommended).

Durango Trailhead
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Colorado day 9-12: Silverton

Julu 31-August 3

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Day 9

San Juan Mountains where we are hiking are of volcanic origin, Sangre de Cristo Range we visited earlier was formed by uplifting. Clear difference in scenery. Mineral deposits brought mining, results of which are still visible in many places. Silverton is located at the bottom of a caldera (part of large San Juan volcanic field). Animas River cuts through it and then flows down to Durango, railroad runs along it.

Staying in Silverton at 2850 masl helped with aclimatization, even if only marginally, and we knew we had to go higher. Next day-hike: 12 km loop, 800 m total ascent to 3790 masl to Island and Ice Lakes. This is far better training before multi-day trek than anything we could do in Chicago. We followed the same strategy that worked for us in the past. The initial plan was to go just to Ice Lake, but we felt well and listened to other hikers recommending Island Lake detour. No regrets. Now in beautiful mountains, valleys and creeks, alpine meadows in full bloom, no heavy backpacks. We also got some training in rain showers, hail and thunders.

Day 10

The weather was not too good in the morning bringing rain and lightnings to the area. Not good for hiking, not above tree-line. We decided to visit local mines which there are many around Silverton. We started with self-guided tour of Mayflower Gold Mill: old buildings filled with machinery and tools. Plenty of interesting artifacts from 1929-1945. Gold, silver, lead, zinc and copper ore was brought here for processing, some by aerial tram connecting mines higher on mountain slopes. Next stop was guided tour of Old Hundred Gold Mine which history goes back to 1872 (last gold dreams finally shattered by 1973). We visited tunnels drilled into the mountain to collect ore dropped down through vertical shaft from mines above. We finished the afternoon milling around Silverton and then at Gatorfest organized by owners of Columbine Roadhouse.

Day 11

Quite rested after more lazy day, we were ready to push it harder again to Highland Mary Lakes with return via Sector 24 of Colorado Trail and Continental Divide Trail. 13 km loop, 640 m total ascent, to 3840 masl. Bad road to trailhead and again we parked before particularly damaged part. There were many people until the lakes and almost nobody further on, where mountain views were even better. Not a bad scenery for a workout. Kind of boring at the end to follow well established trails, so we looked for and found a shortcut with wet-crossing to get back to our car parked along the road.

Day 12

Keeping with “on and off” strategy, we stayed at our base in Silverton for entire day to rest and prep for the trek. We knew from our road trip to Canada and Alaska (we managed only one short 3-day backpacking there) that switching from “road trip” to “trekking” requires extra time (a day). Mostly to pull all necessary stuff out of the car storage and pack our backpacks. Surprisingly, we had everything we needed. We attended Gatorfest in the evening with music, food and controlled burning of gator sculpture.

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Colorado dy 5-8: Great Sand Dunes and to Silverton

July 27-30

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Day 5

Great Sand Dunes National Park was on our radar for a while. Finally we had full day to explore and a plan what to do, so just took off from our campsite at 7AM, crossed dry Medano Creek and started walking up the mounds, along ridges, across valleys and steep peaks. Bright sand contrasted with blue sky and dark green mountains on the horizon. Our 8 km included one of the highest points (High Dune) 175 m above the creek bottom. It was great experience somewhat reminiscent of free roaming on Root Glacier. Some mounds looked pristine in the morning, with no human footprints, but with quite a few different tracks of other creatures. Then there was a more crowded area full of people walking and sand-boarding. Under full sun and up to 90°F heat often on steep, sinking sand – darn good warm-up.

We moved to a different campsite and rested during hot midday hours getting ready for evening walk upstream Medano Creek which looked more like a wash with little water still flowing in places, but then disappearing into sandy bottom. To save time, we started from Point of No Return, a short car ride from the campground, towards Sand Pit and Castle Creek. On the way back, we spent 1.5 hr on small shoulder dune waiting for complete darkness to watch stars.

In very friendly environment, we enjoyed off-trail navigation training using GPS and traditional skills, first across muddy terrain with dense vegetation, and at the end in almost complete darkness (did not meet any pumas or bears, but more bugs than we expected).

Day 6

After breakfast at the dunes we started driving west across San Luis Valley. Huge, flat pan between mountain ranges filled with gravel, volcanic ash and sand. We stopped at San Luis Lakes and then drove all the way to Wolf Creek Pass. Joanna booked Wolf Creek Ranch Lodge, but it was too early to check-in so we drove to check Lobo Overlook (trailhead for next day’s hike) and then walked half-way around Big Meadows Reservoir on South Fork Rio Grande. Lazy 3 km stroll. We saw and heard (Merlin) a dozen different bird species, including female Ruby-throated Hummingbird and American Three-toed Woodpecker (hard at work and not paying any attention to us watching from several feet away).

The Lodge (recommended) turn out to be a motel (part of a larger complex on relaxing terrain and river) looking old and disappointing at first, but inside completely remodeled, modern with fully equipped kitchen and a lot of character. Very nice.

Three-toed woodpecker

Day 7

We returned to Lobo Overlook for a short hike on Continental Divide Trail, only 7 km and couple hundred meters down and up, but all above 3400 masl. Very nice views and lots of flowers. Altitude slowed us down a bit. We continued to Pagosa Springs. Hot springs were tempting, but it was getting late and we decided to O/N in Durango. Stopped at the station to confirm schedule and ticket info for backpackers morning train to Silverton (we considered leaving our car there and returning from Durango by train after trekking).

Day 8

Durango to Silverton Highway 550 is scenic. Our first short stop was at Pinkerton Hot Springs. We then quickly decided on another day-hike a few miles off the highway. On the way we faced the usual question, if it was worth driving all the way to trailhead through passable, but rocky section of the forest road risking car damage. No, just parked by the side of Lime Creek Road and walked extra km or so. Trail to Potato Lake was easy 7 km return with 200 m gain to 3000 masl. Close to Silverton, we stopped at Molas Pass and took side road to Little Molas Lake Colorado Trail trailhead – our starting point for the trek a few days later.

As we were driving, Joanna was franticly looking for a place to stay in Silverton. Luckily we found Columbine Roadhouse (recommended) just outside town. Very nice room, living-room, fully equipped kitchen, nice owners. Another place with a lot of character. We had a base for 4D/5N.

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Colorado day 1-4: Chicago to Southern Colorado

July 25-26

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Day 1-3

After driving for more than a day on I80, somewhere in Nebraska, we made first important decision: we are heading to Southern Colorado first. Driving on smaller roads for a change. Made it only to Oakley Kansas on day 2.

Joanna had our first destination already researched: dispersed camping and hiking along Lake Como Road on southern slope of Blanca Peak (4,374 m) of Sangre de Cristo Range. The road gets bumpy as it climbs up, so at some point we decided to stay at a good spot (many were available) with open view of the mountains. Joanna practiced night sky photography after dinner. Next morning we just walked 8 km and 500 m up and down the (4WD) road to stretch legs and get first taste of thiner air at almost 3000 masl. Relaxing hike with great views, no other hikers, few “machines”. Lake Como was too far/high for us that first day.

Day 4

Next destination: Great Sand Dunes National Park. We were quite lucky (weekend) to find campsites for two nights at very good park campground (recommended). In the afternoon we walked a short trail to Zapata Falls. Joanna practiced some fancy footwork on rocks, Piotr just waded through very (refreshing) cold water. All to get a glimpse of the falls. The trailhead is located above the valley floor offering good panoramic view of the dunes at the east edge of San Luis Valley pushed against surrounding mountains of Sangre de Cristo Range. And then we just looked around or starred at the dunes plotting exploration route for early next morning. Had time to plan next move, some idea where to go first to avoid biggest crowds. It was morning walk on the dunes and evening walk in Mendino Creek, with midday fiesta (hot weather).

We were getting into travel rhythm after leaving Chicago in a hurry with just a general plan. Sightseeing: yes, but we also needed several days to warm-up and start pushing to higher elevations on easier day-hikes to trigger altitude acclimatization before Colorado Trail.

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