the wandering spot

During yearly visits to Poland Piotr explores new regions with his family. This year easy going trip took him to many interesting places: old castles (Teutonic Knights) and basilicas with history going back to XIII century, Elbląg Canal, summer sailing vacation villages, largest lake in Poland (Śniardwy), Popielno Konik stud.

We learned that the old buildings went through many destruction-reconstruction-adaptation cycles. Some old stone-and brick-work remains, but their interiors were often destroyed or looted. Present day appearance gives a good idea of medieval architecture and how they looked over the years.

More than 1300 km and 20 hours of driving often on small and winding local roads. We stayed in small hotels: two nights in Elbląg and two nights in Mikołajki. Tried several restaurants serving polish food (restaurant food has become quite expensive). Weather was mostly dry, but unseasonably cold. There were surprisingly few tourists in most places.

Itinerary

Day 1

Just straight highway driving to Kwidzyń to visit 14th Cathedral-Castle Complex (museum walk through and private tour of the cathedral with very engaging guide). Well restored and interesting.

Sztum is another gothic 14th century castle, only partially preserved with nothing substantial to see inside. This castle is quite different than the others: polygon shaped with towers, but smaller/lower buildings and walls as it served as vogt headquarters.

We visited 13th century Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork during ☞ 2019 trip to Pomerania. This time we only had time to walk around to fully appreciate its size – largest castle in the world measured by land area.

We checked-in to Pensjonat F.M. in Elbląg . Walk around old town and to Elbląg River. We visited St. Nicholas Cathedral next morning. Elbląg was founded in 13th century. Almost completely destroyed during WWII it has more recently been rebuilt in modern style reminiscent of the old architecture.

Day 2

After short visit to the Cathedral, we drove to Buczyniec to see the fifth incline (pochylnia) of Elbląg Canal. We were lucky to catch a boat that just crossed second incline with three more to go. We took a van downstream to the boat and started going up on third incline. 1.5 hour trip. Cold and windy, but definitely worth it. Badger sighting on canal service road was an added bonus. Elbląg Canal (Elbląg-Ostróda ) opened in 1860 to carry lumber and grain to Vistula River and Baltic Sea ports. It is famous for it’s 5 inclines used instead of locks to lift the boats almost 100 m (it is 26 m from sea level to Gatun Lake for similar length Panama Canal using locks, boat size not comparable).

Lunch at our hotel to warm-up after rather chilly boating experience: chicken broth and kartacze (potato dumplings stuffed with meat served in northeastern Poland, also in Lithuania). And we were ready for next round: short walk in Bażantarnia (nice, large Elbląg Upland Landscape Park just outside town) and then Tolkmicko Port to get a glimpse of Vistula Lagoon (Zalew Wiślany) and Vistula Spit. Returned on some most local roads.

Another quick walk to Brama Targowa (Market Gate) and dinner at Kulinarny Bulwar: yes, 12-inch pork chop with pineapple and cheese, sauerkraut and fried potatoes (for three).

Day 3

Frombork Cathedral in castle-like complex has been extensively renovated. We also visited cathedral’s attic (museum and architectural explanation) and treasury (liturgical items), attended organ concert (with historical and technical explanation) and climbed the bell tower (great views). Late gothic polyptych (used to be the main altar) and baroque organ case (organs themselves were replaced in 1934) were the highlights.

Mikołaj Kopernik’s grave was found in 2005 (confirmed later by DNA analysis) under Cathedral floor near the spot where the coffin is on display now. He worked in Frombork for many years and until his death in 1543.

Lidzbark Warmiński Castle is all museum – the largest collection of artifacts and paintings of all the places we visited on this trip (Malbork is vast too). We reserved too little time for the visit. Luckily with few tourists around we could move quite fast and museum attendants had time to work as our private guides. Explained how wall paintings were restored to uncover the oldest layers. Cellars (museum expositions), Great Refectory, castle chapel, Watzenrod oratory in tall tower (with prison cell “chamber of oblivion” a floor below), art gallery. We had to skip a lot.

Checked-in to Hotel Prohibicja in Mokołajki . Crayfish soup, pork tenderloin and Mkołajski lager for dinner. Now, Piotr found himself sipping Tennessee whiskey in the pub under Route 66 Chicago and Illinois signs.

Day 4

First stop of a day-long loop was at Guzianka to see lock on a canal connecting Beldany and Guzianka Wielka Lakes. Together with nearby Ruciane-Nida, Mikołajki and other small villages, a center of highly popular (romanticized) summer sailing vacations of the bygone era. Still very popular, but we visited before the high season starts, not much activity yet.

We then stopped at horse corrals of state stud (and Polish Academy of Sciences research station) in Popielno to observe for a few moments Koniki polskie (☞ Polish Konik, see also ☞ Konik state stud Popielno).

Looked at Śniardwy Lake (largest lake in Poland at 114 km²) from Popielno Port . Drove around Mrągowo to get a look at quite famous amphitheater (nothing to see). Coffee and cream cake at Mufinka near Deptak Mrągowski (park) was a much better choice.

Next stop was Święta Lipka Sanctuary .

And back to castles: Reszel Castle (part museum, part hotel) open for visitors and Kętrzyn Castle (museum ) closed .

We had big expectations for Ryn Castle , but it turn out to be converted entirely into high-end hotel (not my pair of shoes) with limited access for outsiders. We checked out the interior where big restaurant is located and surprisingly decided to stay for dinner: polish fish soup, miętus (burbot) with parsnip purée and black lentils, sandacz (zander) with risotto with green beans and broad beans, pork tenderloin in chanterelle sauce, Kormoran lager (Kormoran Brewery in Olsztyn). It was good “polish-tasting” food, not more expensive than other places.

Day 5

For Ostróda we had two objectives: visit Elbląg Canal lock and try tasty sielawa (vendance). The lock is on the opposite from Elbląg end of the canal. The fifth Buczyniec incline is somewhere in between. Walked a bit on Bulwar Europejski along Drwęckie Lake. No luck finding restaurant serving sielawa, so we opted for czeburki (large turnovers filled with minced meat and onions), no luck either. It was kartacze take two at Czym Chata Bogata by Mariusz Kuś. Good and filling.

It was highway driving back home for the rest of the day.