the wandering spot

March 26 – April 6

The trip was well researched, but details were worked out last minute or on-the-go. It was relatively fast paced, as we covered four different locations, but we also enjoyed less physically demanding days/activities such as visiting coffee and cacao plantations, orchid show, swimming/snorkeling, boat tours. We watched Panama Canal operation at four different locations. Nature-watching was high on the agenda. Tropical forest, lake/canal, seashore. Monkeys, sloths, red frogs etc. We heard and/or saw well over hundred different bird species (☞ Table).

We plan to publish four detailed reports/posts: Panama City, Boquete, Bocas del Toro and Gamboa.

• All people we met were friendly and helpful, Panama felt safe and relaxed.
• Internal flights, water taxis and Uber worked well, we also used private transfers and a couple of times bus in Panama City.
• We hiked eight trails 2-16km long (total 55km), two on slopes of Volcan Baru were quite steep. Plus local walks.
• Went on two boat tours, one private (Gatun Lake) and one organized (Cayo Zapatilla).
• We ate one meal each day at a selected restaurant or prepared by our host. Bought groceries in stores we could find around. We had access to kitchen in all places we stayed.
• No health issues. Low mosquito and sand fly activity, but still recovering from multiple chigger bites.

Few snapshots…

March 31- April 3

Day 6 was just transfer from Boquete to Bastimentos: 6-hour (supposed to be 4h) shuttle drive across mountains to Almirante on the coast with boat to Bocas del Toro town included, than even smaller boat to Old Bank on Bastimentos Island (rough passage), short walk to Sea Glass Cabin. We picked-up groceries and had lunch on the way in Bocas Town. We had just enough time left for short evening walk along the coast. We chatted with French tourists about what to do on Bastimentos. Joanna tried to swim a bit but surf was too strong.

Day 7 Our cabin had equipped kitchen, just what we needed to prepare coffee and breakfast. Next stop was at Pure Tree Chocolate Farm up on the hill above Old Bank. It was raining in the morning but cleared before we got to the farm. Easy walk around tropical garden, learning about frogs, plants, birds, cacao and tasting some interesting treats. And of course cacao. Nice host and good guide, even though quite young. Quick walk down back to the village and then on to Wizard Beach, observing oropendolas and other birds on the way. We walked on the beach from end to end and Joanna braved the waves (too big for swimming). Beautiful beach, very few people. Met the same French couple and their son, chatted about possible tours.

Returned to Old Bank for dinner at Restaurant Guari Guari by Nayda (recommended): Cole de langosta (lobster tails) and Guari Guary pulpo (octopus), delicious.

Day 8 Light rain again in the morning – Piotr was very happy with slow start and coffee on the balcony. Tourists we met at the farm recommended snorkeling at Polo Beach. We were anyway planning to go there via Red Frog Beach, but now had additional motivation. Packed snorkeling gear, jumped on small boat to Palmar Dock, paid entrance fee for Red Frog Trail and crossed over small hills to the other side of Bastimentos Island. Red Frog Beach was nice, some resorts and private residences, nice surf. Trail along the coast and through residential area took us to Polo Beach. Some sand flies (?), not too bad. We were on the Caribbean Sea side of the island. Big waves were crushing quite far on the outer side of the reef leaving calm lagoon for snorkeling. Very relaxed feeling. A good spot. Some corals, many types of colorful small fish, a few bigger ones. There was some current parallel to shore, we just lazily floated with it. When getting out, current pushed Joanna’s leg to fire coral – quite painful for one day (maybe vinegar we bought helped), very itchy several days later. We returned home the same way and whom did we meet on the way?

This time we talked longer to our French acquaintances, returned on their prearranged water taxi to Old Bank dock. Next day good weather was forecasted and we wanted to take a boat tour. They already booked a trip to Cayo Zapatilla and we were lucky to get reservation for the same tour.

We stopped for dinner at The Firefly just next door to our cabin. Very tasty food and nice presentation: Caribbean pulled pork on toast, gnocchi with shrimp in coconut-ginger sauce (interesting composition) and seafood curry. Portions on the small side (more like tapas) after all the walking and swimming.

Day 9 We knew Cayo Zapatilla is a popular destination, but it was also a holiday and very good, sunny weather (after few days with some rain) – extra crowded. Current along the beach was very strong, so rather than swimming we were snorkeling while floating fast as in a river. Had to land, go upstream and float downstream again. Decent swimming, but not much to watch underwater. Rangers kept swimmers from venturing further out on the reef as there were many boats coming to the beach (without fins the strong current felt too much for us anyway). Joanna squeezed a fast hike to calmer part of the island. Then we stopped for snorkeling from boats near Cayo Coral – new forms of soft coral for us but not very colorful, very few fish. Stopped for lunch at restaurant on the water (lightly grilled fish and seafood stew with rice) with good view of sea cucumbers and fish hiding under decks. On the way back we were rewarder with sloths sightings (both three-toed and two-toed) and watching bottlenose dolphins playing around. Because of the crowds a private boat would work better – beaches and trail away from the dock were almost empty. Our tour with ☞ Kawi Voyage was well organized, the guide Sophie was very good, and overall we were happy with the tour (recommended).

On Bastimentos we shopped in a tiny store and got veggies, fruit and eggs from a stand at the dock. Dinner at home guaranteed. Packing to be ready for a boat ride to the airport next morning – flying back to Panama City. We had great time in Bocas del Toro archipelago and were very happy with our choice of Bastimentos Island as a base. It was tranquil and beautiful and had many interesting places we could walk to or take short boat rides.

March 28 – 30

Day 3 started quite early in the morning: we took Uber to the airport (PAC), flew to David and took another Uber to our accommodation in Boquete. It all worked well and after checking-in we had time for one trail: to Mirador Piedra de Lino. Our host drove us to the trailhead. The trail is short, but very steep (gaining 350m in 1km). Lots of good views, some dense cloud forest and more views of the Boquete valley from the top. On the way back we decided to take a longer, less steep trail – forest path with some scrambling around fallen trees and a little route finding, than a very nice mountain/plantation road. After reaching the trailhead we just started walking down the road towards Bouquete and luckily were able to flag a taxi to take us back to town.

We treated ourselves to Panamanian food at Restaurante Meye Bounore (recommended): sancocho (chicken stew/soup), hojaldra a caballo (beef, puff pastry, fried eggs), montuno vegetarians (tortillas with fried veggies). Long and tiring day. Boquete (ca. 1200 masl) and the trails we hiked there are on the slopes of Volcano Baru – at 3475 masl quite a mountain. Not as hot as in Panamanian lowlands by the sea but still very humid. There were no mosquitos and we did not know yet that we were attacked by chiggers, with long lasting bumps and itching developing over next few days.

Day 4 had to be an active but easy one – we needed rest after yesterday’s steep trail. First visit to Boquete Feria de las Flores: park (and market) along Rio Caldera full of blooming flowers, kitsch/fairy tale sculptures and very nice orchid exposition (Panama’s Annual Orchid Fair). A lot to see and photograph (recommended).

Next, visit to ☞ Finca Casanga just outside of Boquete – small specialty coffee plantation (Arabica Catuai, Geisha and Caturra). The owner drove us there from their store in town. Very informative visit, good guide, coffee roasting and tasting (recommended). We wished we spent more time visiting the actual plantation.

Finally, slow stroll in very nice Parque Bibliteca Boquete, popular with locals on Sunday afternoon, before Peruvian dinner at Inkas Boquete: anticucho (grilled beef heart) and parihuela ( seafood soup).

Day 5 had to be another hike. This time beautiful Sendero Los Quetzales in Volcan Barú National Park. Of course we wanted to find quetzals – partial success as we heard one or two flying close above us, but did not really see them. Then we heard them further away a couple of times. We now routinely use Merlin on hikes and walks, it tells us what is out there and what to look for. The trail is well maintained and rather easy, except steep last section to Mirador Las Rocas (almost all built steps). 10km and 720m altitude gain-day of walking through beautiful cloud forest with a good look at fog from the mirador (fog and clouds came in when we were approaching mirador). We were glad we had good views on the first day, and mist made the forest even more mysterious. At the end of the hike we were caught for almost an hour in rain, quite heavy at times. Other hikers with a car took us back to town.

In Boquete we shopped for groceries at local bakeries, fruit market and at Super Barú. Our room had kitchenette to prepare coffee and simple meals. Packing before bed to be ready for morning shuttle to Bocas del Toro. We liked the mountains, cloud forest and cooler temperatures, Joanna wished we had more days in Boquete to explore other trails.