Subaru life – part 1

We started thinking about road trip from Chicago to Alaska a while ago. We are hoping to finally make the trip this year, at least part of it to Canadian Rockies. Piotr started designing modifications we would need to make to be able to sleep in our 2014 Forester and have well organized space to load all the stuff. The work started in earnest in spring of 2020 with first parts/equipment purchased in June.  See also ☞ part 2.

There was no way we could make comfortable living space without replacing back seats with a platform extending from and leveled with the trunk floor. Piotr decided to use 30mm aluminum extrusion system (easy to install, modify or disassemble) for the support structure (strong, lightweight and using little space). No modifications were made to the car, no drilling holes for screws, nothing was glued. The design was flexible and many improvements followed. Photos illustrate design and main features. The platform was fully assembled in 2021 and tested for the first time (just 3 nights) on ☞ our trip to Isle Royale. Two plastic containers (with seals and latches to be water/dust-proof, and to keep rodents and pests out) are for food/kitchen and clothing. For the night they are stacked on passenger’s seat and duffel bag goes on drivers’ seat.

Driver’s seat does not have to be moved – Piotr takes longer space behind passenger’s seat which is moved forward for the night. Piotr made cut-to-shape foam mattress and pillows. On ☞ 2021 trip to California, we did not yet have roof-top cargo box:  our backpacks fully packed and ready for John Muir Trail had to be moved around which was rather annoying. They traveled behind rolled mattress, plastic containers and other stuff was on the platform behind front seats. For the night, we placed mesh screens on back windows to keep them slightly (1-3 cm) open (later we added rain protectors). It all already worked quite well.

 

Before long “true” ☞ road trip to the Southwest in 2022, we added shelf (workbench) with drawer, extra mattress memory foam layer, cargo box, straps to hold rolled mattress. The bottom of the drawer on the outside is covered with the same carpet as the platform. Plastic containers, our portable wash station and 20L drinking water container fit under the workbench when mattress is rolled-packed. Surprisingly, clearance between mattress and work bench which looks rather low was not a problem at night. The mesh pocket on the workbench did not work and is no longer used. We packed more tools, spare parts, repair kits and car recovery tools as driving on more remote dirt road was planned. All hidden away in places not really usable for everyday items.

 

Addition of the shelf and drawer was the biggest improvement and time-saver. Finally, we had place for all small, frequently used items, work space to prepare quick meal, place to keep many items within reach at night etc. See-through containers work well. They are easy to move around, keep everything dry and clean, and can serve as side-tables. We learned to keep them closed all the time – a mouse boarded our car when we were cooking dinner and travelled with us for a couple of days. It did not get to our food.  We always travel with portable wash station and now added basket for soap, bug sprays, dishwashing detergent, sunscreen etc., everything easily accessible. Roof-top cargo box makes packing a lot easier and faster (backpacks packed and ready for Buckskin/Paria Canyon hike traveled there out of the way). Hasika awning fits Forester very well and can be easily packed in the cargo box. Piotr shortened legs of the Eurmax canopy so folded it fits snugly behind front seats, but it is heavy and bulky, not good for long trips.

There is quite a bit of packing space below the sleeping platform for items used less frequently.  Air compressor for tires, car battery jump-starter, reserves of paper towels and toilet paper etc. It took us a bit of practice to figure out what to pack where. Space on the floor behind front seats is relatively accessible – we keep extra food there, bottles with drinking water, small cooler. There is flat bag behind passenger seat for small items. And we have mesh pockets on both sides for shoes (up to 3 pairs each), easy to load from the side before shutting doors for the night, or getting different shoes. There is enough space on the platform (with mattress rolled) to load groceries or firewood we pack away or use later in the day.

This is really quite minimalistic life-style – experience from multi-day hikes made the transition easier (Joanna thinks we take too much of everything). We already have a good routine for everything from what stuff to take with us, how and where to pack it to seting-up camp in different environments, preparing our car for the night and packing in the morning, sourcing and cooking food. Being prepared for mechanical problems and emergencies (lucky so far). Good organization and compartmentalization make huge difference. We have been quite lucky with weather. Extended rainy or very cold weather could make living out of Forester camper more challenging.  But there is always a weather forecast to get ready and wait the bad weather out in a motel or guest house, if necessary (we do it every 5-7 days anyway). Piotr is already on the next wave of improvements with new experience from 2024 ☞ Eastern Canada road trip.

Explanation of  shelf installation (in place of standar cargo area cover).

Starved Rock in early March

Quite a change of scenery since our ☞ last visit in the Fall of 2022. An unexpected early start to 2024 camping and hiking trips. Sunny and spring-like temperatures, surprisingly dry but very windy. Walked some 17 miles (plus more than 600 stairs) in two half-days, up and down familiar trails. Spoted a few bold eagles above the river, herons  on trees and migratory pelicans stopping for a night on the river. Tested some improvements to our Forester camper.

Eastern Canada road trip

Our second road trip of 2023 (after ☞ Puerto Rico) took us on 37-day, 6000-mile loop around Eastern Canada, heading out via Detroit and returning via Cleveland. We crossed 10 states (IL, IN, MI, NY, ME, NH, VT, NY, PA, OH) and 6 provinces: Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland & Labrador, Nova Scotia, Prince Edwards Island and New Brunswick. We drove fairly quickly to Baie-Comeau QC. Short stop on the way at Pointe-Noire to watch belugas reminded us ☞ Quebec 2009 trip. Traveling Trans-Labrador Highway was the initial impulse for the entire trip. Driving was easy as the highway is in excellent condition and even the unpaved section of Rt 389 is not bad. Still, vast, sparsely inhabited expanse of taiga and tundra, and very light trafic preserve Labrador’s remote feel. The landscape is great and very interesting. Vegetation was surprisingly green and dense, even lush, although growth of everything (except mushrooms) is stunted. There are beautiful lakes, rivers and marshes. It was then rather disappointing that travelers on the road are firmly ditched-off the surrounding environment – nowhere to stop for a break, except at the road’s edge, or to get a good view, except stopping in the middle of bridges. Most side-dirt-roads, road-side parking lots or post-road-construction sites are neither interesting nor the kind of places one wants to explore. The rest of the trip was easier in this respect.

Scenery was changing all the time: from Great Lakes to St Lawrence River, to Labrador’s interior to Gulf of St Lawrence and Atlantic coast. Many lakes, rivers, streams and fjords. Taiga (boreal forest), tundra, beaches, coastal cliffs and barrens. Some mountains and hills. Interesting rock formations. We saw four black bears (they do not seem to cause problems for campers), 1/2 moose, a heard of 12+1 caribou, one fox, many squirrels and birds, a few dozen pilot whales plus one larger whale (?) far away and several beluga pods.

We started with a general idea where we wanted to go and we did some reaearch about places to visit and possible O/N sites, but the rest was left to daily decissions (did not make any reservations).

We had really good weather most of the time. A few nights with colder temps and several rainy days. Despite late in the season, we were hit by flies in multiple locations, two layers of clothing and mosquito nets helped (to some degree) and once by swarms of really nasty mosquitos. Moderate, passing rain during the day or rain, even heavy, at night was not a problem, but substantial rain made packing our car=camper quite a wet experience on one occasion. And we were on collision course with remnants of Hurricane Lee, which passed over our heads on Prince Edward Island. We spent the night in rented cottage just in case, but it was just rain and some gusty wind. We are getting better finding wild camping sites on our own. We had no problems with car travel/camping, but we have some new ideas how to improve/streamline operations before next trip. As it was later in the season, we had no problem finding space in National/Provincial Park capmgrounds or in inns/cottages.

Completed itinerary
        Main destination   Overnight
Aug 19 Sat 1 Ontario ON Big Bend
  20 Sun 2 Darlington PP ON Darlington
  21 Mon 3 Rideau Canal Kingston Mills ON Mille Roches
  22 Tue 4 Thousand Island NP QC Petite River
  23 Wed 5 Massif de Charlevoix QC Petite River
  24 Thu 6 Pointe-Noire QC Les Dinosaures du Quai De Ragueneau
  25 Fri 7 Lac Manicouagan QC Lac Manicouagan Rt 389
  26 Sat 8 Uapishka Biodiversity Reserve NL Two Seasons Labrador City
  27 Sun 9 Churchill Falls NL Camp Rt 500 Happy Valley
  28 Mon 10 Happy Valley-Goose Bay NL Camp 1 Rt 510
  29 Tue 11 Mary’s Harbour NL Camp 2 Rt 510
  30 Wed 12 Saddle Island NL Grenfell Louie Forteau
  31 Thu 13 Thrombolites Flowers Cove NL Camp Rt 430
Sep 1 Fri 14 L’Anse aux Meadows NL Main Brook
  2 Sat 15 Pointe Riche NL Arches
  3 Sun 16 West Brook Pond NL Barry Hill
  4 Mon 17 Gros Morne Summit NL Barry Hill
  5 Tue 18 Gros Morne NP NL Trout River
  6 Wed 19 Green Gardens/Tablelands NL Lomond
  7 Thu 20 Cape St George NL Inn at the Cape
  8 Fri 21 Boutte du Cap Trail NL Camp Rt 480
  9 Sat 22 Ramea NL Sandbanks
  10 Sun 23 Sandbanks PP NL Ferry to Cape Breton
  11 Mon 24 Cabot Trail/Cape Breton NS Mountain View Motel Pleasant Bay
  12 Tue 25 Skyline Trail NS Cheticamp
  13 Wed 26 Salmon Pools Rd Trail NS Whycocomagh
  14 Thu 27 Charlottetown PE Cavendish
  15 Fri 28 PEI NP PE Cavendish
  16 Sat 29 Green Gables PE Dreamweavers Cottage North Rustico
  17 Sun 30 Hopewell Rocks PP NB The Shire
  18 Mon 31 Fundy NP NB Chignecto
  19 Tue 32 New River Beach PP ME Fogg Brook Resort Palmyra
  20 Wed 33 Lobster Cooker Freeport VT Camp George D Aiken Wilderness
  21 Thu 34 Vermont Long Trail NY Oneonta KOA Journey Unadilla
  22 Fri 35 Erie Bluffs SP OH Broadview Heights
  23 Sat 36 Cuyahoga  Valley  NP OH Broadview Heights
  24 Sun 37 Home IL Chicago

Eastern Canada road trip

Estern Canada road trip days 30-37: New Brunswick and return to Chicago

Day 30

The first objective of the day was to cross Prince Edward Island and then Confederation Bridge over Northumberland Strait. Piotr did not want to get caught driving on long (13 km) exposed bridge in whatever wind leftovers the huricane could still produce. Driving into side wind-gusts with cargo box on the roof is not fun. We just moved steadily and arrived midday in New Brunswick. We new parks and park camgrounds remained closed. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park Visitor Center was closed, but we decided to take to the trails on the coast with quite a few other visitors. Weather was not bad. People come here mostly to watch the tide come and go.

Later, we drove up and down Scenic Drive along the coast (Rte 915). Stopping at Cape Enrage Lighthouse. Piotr did not like wild camping spots Joanna found and we spent the night at The Shire, small camping next to (old) Ha Ha Cemetery. Convenient and nice spot. Hats, mosquito nets, two layers to cover entire body and we were stil bitten multiple times.  No way we could cook dinner, we ate whatever sitting in the car. All mosquitos from Canada converged on us there, they were not really a problem anywhere else.

Day 31

Next stop, Fundy National Park. We considered staying in Alma, but after talking to rangers at the Visitor Center decided park campground was a better option. We had plenty of time to walk around. Spent some time on the beaches watching the tide sweep-in quite quickly. Watermarks showed impresive tide-height  in Bay of Fundy (up to 16 m), among the highest in the World. We also walked two trails, Shiphaven and Coppermine, through forested high banks.

Chignecto Campground is quite large, but there were only a few people around that day late in season. We found a good spot near shelter/kitchen. Everything looked new. With plenty of firewood and food we were set for the evening. It was cold and rainy outside.

Day 32

Now we knew the Canadian adventure is ending – we were heading toward US border. Six more days, 2500 km to Chicago. Driving, some stops to rest and look around. Next major destination: visiting friends in Cleveland.

Coffee break for XL latte at Picadilly Coffee Roasters in Sussex NB (recommended) and brief visit  at New River Beach Provincial Park NB, Joanna walked around, Piotr took driver’s nap. Last two stops in Canada.

When we arrived at Fogg Brook Resort Campground, Palmyra ME, the office was alrady closed but the staff was very nice and came back to check us in. Then neighbours came over with strong flash light, as we were setting camp after dark, and big bundle of camp firewood. It was the first time we camped on golf course.

Day 33

We stopped in Freeport ME to pick-up groceries at Bow Street Market and for lunch at Lobster Cooker (recommended) followed by coffee at  Siphouse (recommended) on Main Street. All selected based on friendly recommendations at Mainly Seafood Company just off the highway. Lobster time for Joanna, Piotr settled for fish & chips basket plus later extra-large latte. And we were back on I-295/95 heading south and then on Hwy 202 and 9 west to Vermont.

George D Aiken Wilderness Rd dispersed camping in Green Mountains, VT (recommended). Last chance for wild camping and we liked it.

Day 34

Joanna was looking for one more short hike and we decided to go on Long Trail to Maple Hill near Bennington VT. Weather was beautiful. We added a couple of miles  on one of our favorites: Appalachian Trail. Coffee at The Perfect Blend on Broad St in Waverly NY and driving on major highways for the rest of the day until Unadilla / I-88 / Oneonta KOA Journey campground (our first KOA and it was very good). We got a nice spot at the end of the campground and not between large campers/RVs.

Day 35

All day of highway driving with short stop for sunset and short walk at Elk Creek, Erie Bluffs State Park, PA. We arrived at Joanna’s friend’s house in Cleveland suburb in the evening.

Day 36

We spent half-a-day visiting Cuyahoga National Park, OH. A combination of easy walk through forested hills and creeks, and on  Cuyahoga River with a bit of history: Ohio & Erie Canal and Valley Railway (18th century), and industrial sites such as Jaite Paper Mill (early 20th century). 30th US National Park we have visited so far. We spent the rest of our time with friends.

Day 37

Just driving from Cleveland to Chicago.

Estern Canada road trip days 27-29: Prince Edwars Island

Day 27

We arrived in Charlottetown in quite intense rain. Joanna interogated rangers at the Visitor Center and we stopped at Water Prince Corner Shop for early dinner. Great seafood:  island mussles and lobster roll. Rain slowed down enough for a walk around the neighbourhood. We crossed the island to the north side and took a spot at Cavendish campground in PEI National Park: closest to the beach and next to shelter to stay under roof if heavy rain returned. Campground was partially closed with just some campers. The hurricane was still a couple of days away.

Day 28

Weather improved, time to visit all corners of Prince Edward Island National Park: Cavendish Beach, MacNeills Brook Beach, North Rustico Beach, Brackley Beach, Covehead Harbour Lighthouse,  Cavendish Cliffs, back to Cavendish Beach, Dunelands and Oceanview Lookoff. Green Gables Heritage Place was already closed, so we just walked Haunted Woods Trail where we met nobody,  but lonely fox making its rounds.  It walked within a couple of feet without even acknowledging our presence. The hurricane was still 24 hours away, but weather was changing: red evening sky below low dark clouds, wind gusts and rushing waves. We moved to a different camping spot at Cavendish, perhaps 100m further inland, like it would make any difference.

Day 29

Morning visit to Green Gables Heritage Place, Montgomery Park and Cavendish Cemetery (Cavendish is Avonlea in books about Anne). Late lunch at Carr’s Oyster Bar (recommended) in Stanley Bridge. Finally found the right place to try fresh local oysters (Piotr could not refuse tasting two). Followed by baked oysters and steamed clams.

Drove all the way to Thunder Cove Beach only to discover it was closed for visitors, just looked around. Took diferent local roads to go back. Weather was cleary getting more active: wind gusts, fast moving clouds, passing rains. We were looking for a place to overnight and Joanna found Dreamweavers Cottages and Vacation Homes (recommended) in North Rustico. Fully equipped cottage (kitchen, laundry etc) and very nice host. We parked away from trees and listened to wind gusts becoming stronger. Remnants of the hurricane (just wind and rain)  passed over our heads at night.

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