the wandering spot

Day 19.

We had full day of walking in Savannah – Joanna’s favorite town. We left our car at The Isetta Inn and just looped around stoping at countless squares with old oaks, lush greenery and antebellum mansions.

We tried to have lunch at famous Mrs. Wilkes, but line was waaay too long, so we restocked at Kroger, visited Bonaventure Cemetery and headed out to Best Western Inn in Charleston, with brief rest stop at Frampton Plantation.

Day 19.

We worried about parking in Charleston center, it was packed, but finding paid street parking was not impossible. We parked in three locations to explore different neighborhoods, waterfront and slave trading museum (Ryan’s Mart). A lot of history, from English colonial times, slave trade and antebellum, and Civil War.

Early dinner at Oyster House Seafood & O-Bar, southern style, very good. After dinner we started 1000-mile return home (via Knoxville and Cincinnati), with stops. First at Poinsett State Park Campground (recommended). Little time for short local walks.

Day 21-23.

We spent most of the following day at Congaree National Park walking 8-miles including open sections of Boardwalk, Sims and Oakridge trails. The park has the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest in U.S. and many state and national champion trees.

We parked for the night at Brick House Campground (recommended). Nice, quiet and relaxing evening with campfire. Next day we crossed Smoky Mountains, wonderful scenery reminding us past visits and hikes in the National Park. Stopped for interesting lunch at popular Biscuit Head for more southern cuisine and grocery shopping in Asheville. Joanna could not resist to use Piotr’s driver break to walk a mile on Appalachian Trail (from Tobes Creek Rd). Motel stay at Berea Comfort Inn & Suites. To keep with our tradition we stopped at KFC while in Kentucky to get fried chicken. Chicago. The End.

Day 14.

Before leaving Everglades for Miami we decided to go for another walk: to Bear Lake (3.5 miles return). But first we had to drive to trailhead on dirt road along Wilderness Waterway, the same road where we saw nest-building crocodile the day before. It was no longer there, probably better as we would not like to disturb it driving by so close. The trail goes through dense vegetation along small canal reclaimed by nature to muddy shores of Bear Lake. Altogether we spent 6 days in Big Cypress and Everglades, plenty of time to explore.

By the end of the day we arrived at Miami River Inn (recommended) in Miami Little Havana neighborhood, after slowly driving just 80 miles and stopping on the way in Coral Gables (famous Miami suburb) for a short stroll.

After some delay we checked-in to comfortable apartment. Then walked around like locals with laundry and shopping bags, to  Brickell Cleaners & Coin Laundry and Presidente Supermarket. Chose 305 Peruvian Modern Cuisine for dinner (Aquadito de mariscos and ceviche mixto). Plus tropical fruit for desert at home. Well deserved.

Day 15.

We spent most of the day in Miami Beach, crossed Miami River and took bus from there. It was fun to watch wild roosters with chicken parading in the middle of big city.

It was beautiful Sunday and we were just meandering along and between Ocean Dr, Collins Ave, Washington Ave and South Beach with many people, looking at Art Deco buildings, with stops for coffee, ice cream and swimming. Subtle pastels and whites; famous (saturated) Miami Pink seen only in ice cream cups and small accessories. Laid back atmosphere with signs of preparation for beach parties, but restaurants already packed. We are often surprised by lack of simple changing places on public beaches, no exception here.

In the evening, our first try of Cuban cuisine at Habana con B (recommended) in Little Havana neighborhood. We were there early and had the place pretty much for ourselves. Great food and opportunity to talk about Cuba.

Evening walk up and down Calle Ocho – heart of Little Havana.

Day 16.

Next morning we navigated to Wynwood Walls (murals) around NW 25th St and NW 3rd Ave. After few loops and photos we got on I-95 north.

Another slow driving day, just 200 miles to Coco Beach. Driving through Miami metropolitan area and then on major highway was not interesting, but at the end it got much better – across Indian River Lagoon and along the coast. We decided to settle at Travel Inn of Titusville, nicely renovated apartment in roadside motel from the sixties. Road noise bothered Joanna, but location was very convenient, close to Kennedy Space Center.

Day 17.

Technology day at Kennedy Space Center and it was worth it. It turn out we had many snippets of information about space exploration and it was perfect set-up the get the information illustrated and organized. Stayed at Anastasia State Park Campground.

Day 18.

Walking on wide beaches and sand dunes of Anastasia State Park (recommended) was nice counterpoint to rocket science. We were learning about protected bird nesting habitat and then tried to identify different species on the beach.

St Augustine took us a bit by surprise. Crowded with tourists (impossible to find street parking) but still nice. We visited Castillo de San Marcos fort – interesting history and place to learn more about town claiming to be the oldest in U.S.

We left Florida and at the end of the day we got first feel of Georgia staying at The Isetta Inn (recommended) in Savannah – old houses/mansions converted into airbnb complex. High quality, interesting set-up. And opportunity to talk to other travelers in shared kitchen at dinner time.

Day 8.

Now we were ready to immerse ourselves in Florida nature. Completely flat, sea level environment with lakes, swamps, canals and small forests, mangroves along the coast. Early April was good time to visit, not too hot and still good for outdoor activities. It was somewhat different for us mode of travel: driving from site to site and walking on short trails (at best).

We drove all day to Big Cypress National Preserve, stopped for quick chat at Welcome Center and parked at Monument Lake Campground. Very few visitors, good spots to choose from, so we decided to stay two nights to have more time to look around. Camping under watchful eyes of resident alligators not a bear for change. We were assured alligators stay in water and do not venture far from shore to mess-up your tent or steal food. Still we stayed healthy distance from them.

Day 9.

Morning was all fogg on Monument Lake, but it burned-off rather quickly and we were not in big hurry as our Ten Thousand Islands Boat Tour (1.5 hr, Everglades National Park Adventures) out of Everglades City was at 1 PM.

We had time for short mangrove boardwalk stroll before boarding the boat. Our park guide for the tour provided a lot of good information about Everglades. We started with brown pelicans, two bald eagles in mangroves at water’s edge and osprey nest just out of Everglades City. We crossed National Park border (running across water) and spent an hour circling around in just small area of vast expanse of water and sandbar islands covered with mangroves (black, red, white). Larger trees grow only on islands elevated by a few feet where signs of past inhabitation have been also found. We spent time watching playful (mating season) bottlenose dolphins. Late lunch/dinner at Triad Seafood Market & Cafe and we had time left for rest and shower at our camp.

Day 10.

Loop Road in Big Cypress Preserve is a destination on its own – slow driving on gravel and stopping at openings in lush vegetation (often near bridges) with water/swamp to find birds and alligators. Old canals along the road created perfect habitat within easy camera reach. If there is water there are birds or gators there, or both. Hard not to become a bird-watcher. It is not just wading birds, but also black vultures, wood storks and woodpeckers. Stands of cypresses and bromelias hanging from trees. Stopped for two short walks too (Gator Hook Trail and Tree Snail Hammock Trail). Wildlife!

We ended the day at Long Pine Key Campground in Everglades National Park (recommended). So many good spots to chose from.

Day 11.

Started the day with Gumbo Limbo (“tourist tree” with red peeling bark) and anhinga Trails. Nesting anhinga colony, many other birds, turtles and of course alligators – this time they were talking (bellowing).

Changing tune we stopped at Nike Missile Site HM-69, museum on rocket launch site from the sixties with some hardware on display. As we were heading out to spend afternoon in Biscayne National Park, we stopped at small market and bought some quality tropical fruits (very pricey and not grown in Florida). There are many ornamental plant and tree (palm) nurseries around Homestead. At Biscayne we had only little time for Jeffry Walk and snorkeling from shore (Joanna). We skipped boat snorkeling tour because of high winds – they were not going to the reef and visibility was poor.

Thanks to patient, but successful shopping at Publix in Homestead we were set for exquisite camping dinner: snow crab clusters (steamed at the store) and black tip shark (cooked by Piotr). All under watchful eye of resident cardinal. Short after dark walk around Long Pine Key Campground.

Day 12.

Day 13.

Our hopes for kayaking were dashed again as strong wind persisted. To spend some time on water we signed-up for afternoon Backcountry Boat Tour with Flamingo Adventures. We had time for morning nature walk with volunteer ranger talking mostly about birds: osprey nest with chicks at Flamingo Marina, Great crested flycatcher (flying around too fast to capture on film) e.t.c.

Waiting for the boat we had time to look for crocodile(s) frequently visiting marina. Wilderness Waterway (canal) is now dammed to prevent salt water flooding wetlands: alligators (fresh water only) stay inland, crocodiles (sea water tolerant) stay mostly on the sea side.

We had time for a short walk along the coast behind Visitor Center (following adult ospreys supervising training flight of their offspring), a bit longer walk on Snake Bight Tram Trail (3,7 mi) and stop at Mrazek Pond Viewpoint to look for Tricolor herons.

We visited Guy Bradley Visitor Center at Flamingo (recommended) several times during our stay in the area to arrange tours, talk to rangers, use fast wifi internet and on couple of occasions to cool-off midday. Many activities were already winding down for the season due to approaching heat. Both campgrounds were very good and mostly empty. No problem with last minute reservations. Slow nature of Big Cypress and Everglades visit, not so much driving and hiking, gave us plenty of time for bird- and reptile-watching.