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Eastern Canada road trip

Our second road trip of 2023 (after ☞ Puerto Rico) took us on 37-day, 6000-mile loop around Eastern Canada, heading out via Detroit and returning via Cleveland. We crossed 10 states (IL, IN, MI, NY, ME, NH, VT, NY, PA, OH) and 6 provinces: Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland & Labrador, Nova Scotia, Prince Edwards Island and New Brunswick. We drove fairly quickly to Baie-Comeau QC. Short stop on the way at Pointe-Noire to watch belugas reminded us ☞ Quebec 2009 trip. Traveling Trans-Labrador Highway was the initial impulse for the entire trip. Driving was easy as the highway is in excellent condition and even the unpaved section of Rt 389 is not bad. Still, vast, sparsely inhabited expanse of taiga and tundra, and very light trafic preserve Labrador’s remote feel. The landscape is great and very interesting. Vegetation was surprisingly green and dense, even lush, although growth of everything (except mushrooms) is stunted. There are beautiful lakes, rivers and marshes. It was then rather disappointing that travelers on the road are firmly ditched-off the surrounding environment – nowhere to stop for a break, except at the road’s edge, or to get a good view, except stopping in the middle of bridges. Most side-dirt-roads, road-side parking lots or post-road-construction sites are neither interesting nor the kind of places one wants to explore. The rest of the trip was easier in this respect.

Scenery was changing all the time: from Great Lakes to St Lawrence River, to Labrador’s interior to Gulf of St Lawrence and Atlantic coast. Many lakes, rivers, streams and fjords. Taiga (boreal forest), tundra, beaches, coastal cliffs and barrens. Some mountains and hills. Interesting rock formations. We saw four black bears (they do not seem to cause problems for campers), 1/2 moose, a heard of 12+1 caribou, one fox, many squirrels and birds, a few dozen pilot whales plus one larger whale (?) far away and several beluga pods.

We started with a general idea where we wanted to go and we did some reaearch about places to visit and possible O/N sites, but the rest was left to daily decissions (did not make any reservations).

We had really good weather most of the time. A few nights with colder temps and several rainy days. Despite late in the season, we were hit by flies in multiple locations, two layers of clothing and mosquito nets helped (to some degree) and once by swarms of really nasty mosquitos. Moderate, passing rain during the day or rain, even heavy, at night was not a problem, but substantial rain made packing our car=camper quite a wet experience on one occasion. And we were on collision course with remnants of Hurricane Lee, which passed over our heads on Prince Edward Island. We spent the night in rented cottage just in case, but it was just rain and some gusty wind. We are getting better finding wild camping sites on our own. We had no problems with car travel/camping, but we have some new ideas how to improve/streamline operations before next trip. As it was later in the season, we had no problem finding space in National/Provincial Park capmgrounds or in inns/cottages.

Completed itinerary
        Main destination   Overnight
Aug 19 Sat 1 Ontario ON Big Bend
  20 Sun 2 Darlington PP ON Darlington
  21 Mon 3 Rideau Canal Kingston Mills ON Mille Roches
  22 Tue 4 Thousand Island NP QC Petite River
  23 Wed 5 Massif de Charlevoix QC Petite River
  24 Thu 6 Pointe-Noire QC Les Dinosaures du Quai De Ragueneau
  25 Fri 7 Lac Manicouagan QC Lac Manicouagan Rt 389
  26 Sat 8 Uapishka Biodiversity Reserve NL Two Seasons Labrador City
  27 Sun 9 Churchill Falls NL Camp Rt 500 Happy Valley
  28 Mon 10 Happy Valley-Goose Bay NL Camp 1 Rt 510
  29 Tue 11 Mary’s Harbour NL Camp 2 Rt 510
  30 Wed 12 Saddle Island NL Grenfell Louie Forteau
  31 Thu 13 Thrombolites Flowers Cove NL Camp Rt 430
Sep 1 Fri 14 L’Anse aux Meadows NL Main Brook
  2 Sat 15 Pointe Riche NL Arches
  3 Sun 16 West Brook Pond NL Barry Hill
  4 Mon 17 Gros Morne Summit NL Barry Hill
  5 Tue 18 Gros Morne NP NL Trout River
  6 Wed 19 Green Gardens/Tablelands NL Lomond
  7 Thu 20 Cape St George NL Inn at the Cape
  8 Fri 21 Boutte du Cap Trail NL Camp Rt 480
  9 Sat 22 Ramea NL Sandbanks
  10 Sun 23 Sandbanks PP NL Ferry to Cape Breton
  11 Mon 24 Cabot Trail/Cape Breton NS Mountain View Motel Pleasant Bay
  12 Tue 25 Skyline Trail NS Cheticamp
  13 Wed 26 Salmon Pools Rd Trail NS Whycocomagh
  14 Thu 27 Charlottetown PE Cavendish
  15 Fri 28 PEI NP PE Cavendish
  16 Sat 29 Green Gables PE Dreamweavers Cottage North Rustico
  17 Sun 30 Hopewell Rocks PP NB The Shire
  18 Mon 31 Fundy NP NB Chignecto
  19 Tue 32 New River Beach PP ME Fogg Brook Resort Palmyra
  20 Wed 33 Lobster Cooker Freeport VT Camp George D Aiken Wilderness
  21 Thu 34 Vermont Long Trail NY Oneonta KOA Journey Unadilla
  22 Fri 35 Erie Bluffs SP OH Broadview Heights
  23 Sat 36 Cuyahoga  Valley  NP OH Broadview Heights
  24 Sun 37 Home IL Chicago

Eastern Canada road trip

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More on Eastern Canada road trip 2023 (8 posts)
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Estern Canada road trip days 30-37: New Brunswick and return to Chicago

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Day 30

The first objective of the day was to cross Prince Edward Island and then Confederation Bridge over Northumberland Strait. Piotr did not want to get caught driving on long (13 km) exposed bridge in whatever wind leftovers the huricane could still produce. Driving into side wind-gusts with cargo box on the roof is not fun. We just moved steadily and arrived midday in New Brunswick. We new parks and park camgrounds remained closed. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park Visitor Center was closed, but we decided to take to the trails on the coast with quite a few other visitors. Weather was not bad. People come here mostly to watch the tide come and go.

Later, we drove up and down Scenic Drive along the coast (Rte 915). Stopping at Cape Enrage Lighthouse. Piotr did not like wild camping spots Joanna found and we spent the night at The Shire, small camping next to (old) Ha Ha Cemetery. Convenient and nice spot. Hats, mosquito nets, two layers to cover entire body and we were stil bitten multiple times.  No way we could cook dinner, we ate whatever sitting in the car. All mosquitos from Canada converged on us there, they were not really a problem anywhere else.

Day 31

Next stop, Fundy National Park. We considered staying in Alma, but after talking to rangers at the Visitor Center decided park campground was a better option. We had plenty of time to walk around. Spent some time on the beaches watching the tide sweep-in quite quickly. Watermarks showed impresive tide-height  in Bay of Fundy (up to 16 m), among the highest in the World. We also walked two trails, Shiphaven and Coppermine, through forested high banks.

Chignecto Campground is quite large, but there were only a few people around that day late in season. We found a good spot near shelter/kitchen. Everything looked new. With plenty of firewood and food we were set for the evening. It was cold and rainy outside.

Day 32

Now we knew the Canadian adventure is ending – we were heading toward US border. Six more days, 2500 km to Chicago. Driving, some stops to rest and look around. Next major destination: visiting friends in Cleveland.

Coffee break for XL latte at Picadilly Coffee Roasters in Sussex NB (recommended) and brief visit  at New River Beach Provincial Park NB, Joanna walked around, Piotr took driver’s nap. Last two stops in Canada.

When we arrived at Fogg Brook Resort Campground, Palmyra ME, the office was alrady closed but the staff was very nice and came back to check us in. Then neighbours came over with strong flash light, as we were setting camp after dark, and big bundle of camp firewood. It was the first time we camped on golf course.

Day 33

We stopped in Freeport ME to pick-up groceries at Bow Street Market and for lunch at Lobster Cooker (recommended) followed by coffee at  Siphouse (recommended) on Main Street. All selected based on friendly recommendations at Mainly Seafood Company just off the highway. Lobster time for Joanna, Piotr settled for fish & chips basket plus later extra-large latte. And we were back on I-295/95 heading south and then on Hwy 202 and 9 west to Vermont.

George D Aiken Wilderness Rd dispersed camping in Green Mountains, VT (recommended). Last chance for wild camping and we liked it.

Day 34

Joanna was looking for one more short hike and we decided to go on Long Trail to Maple Hill near Bennington VT. Weather was beautiful. We added a couple of miles  on one of our favorites: Appalachian Trail. Coffee at The Perfect Blend on Broad St in Waverly NY and driving on major highways for the rest of the day until Unadilla / I-88 / Oneonta KOA Journey campground (our first KOA and it was very good). We got a nice spot at the end of the campground and not between large campers/RVs.

Day 35

All day of highway driving with short stop for sunset and short walk at Elk Creek, Erie Bluffs State Park, PA. We arrived at Joanna’s friend’s house in Cleveland suburb in the evening.

Day 36

We spent half-a-day visiting Cuyahoga National Park, OH. A combination of easy walk through forested hills and creeks, and on  Cuyahoga River with a bit of history: Ohio & Erie Canal and Valley Railway (18th century), and industrial sites such as Jaite Paper Mill (early 20th century). 30th US National Park we have visited so far. We spent the rest of our time with friends.

Day 37

Just driving from Cleveland to Chicago.

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Estern Canada road trip days 27-29: Prince Edwars Island

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Day 27

We arrived in Charlottetown in quite intense rain. Joanna interogated rangers at the Visitor Center and we stopped at Water Prince Corner Shop for early dinner. Great seafood:  island mussles and lobster roll. Rain slowed down enough for a walk around the neighbourhood. We crossed the island to the north side and took a spot at Cavendish campground in PEI National Park: closest to the beach and next to shelter to stay under roof if heavy rain returned. Campground was partially closed with just some campers. The hurricane was still a couple of days away.

Day 28

Weather improved, time to visit all corners of Prince Edward Island National Park: Cavendish Beach, MacNeills Brook Beach, North Rustico Beach, Brackley Beach, Covehead Harbour Lighthouse,  Cavendish Cliffs, back to Cavendish Beach, Dunelands and Oceanview Lookoff. Green Gables Heritage Place was already closed, so we just walked Haunted Woods Trail where we met nobody,  but lonely fox making its rounds.  It walked within a couple of feet without even acknowledging our presence. The hurricane was still 24 hours away, but weather was changing: red evening sky below low dark clouds, wind gusts and rushing waves. We moved to a different camping spot at Cavendish, perhaps 100m further inland, like it would make any difference.

Day 29

Morning visit to Green Gables Heritage Place, Montgomery Park and Cavendish Cemetery (Cavendish is Avonlea in books about Anne). Late lunch at Carr’s Oyster Bar (recommended) in Stanley Bridge. Finally found the right place to try fresh local oysters (Piotr could not refuse tasting two). Followed by baked oysters and steamed clams.

Drove all the way to Thunder Cove Beach only to discover it was closed for visitors, just looked around. Took diferent local roads to go back. Weather was cleary getting more active: wind gusts, fast moving clouds, passing rains. We were looking for a place to overnight and Joanna found Dreamweavers Cottages and Vacation Homes (recommended) in North Rustico. Fully equipped cottage (kitchen, laundry etc) and very nice host. We parked away from trees and listened to wind gusts becoming stronger. Remnants of the hurricane (just wind and rain)  passed over our heads at night.

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Estern Canada road trip days 24-27: Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

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Day 24

We did sleep quite a bit on ferry, but were not fully rested. The day started with clouds and passing rains as we were driving west and then north toward Cape Breton Highlands National Park. But first, breakfast plus coffee at Chanterelle Inn & Cottages. The weather was not encouraging when we arrived at Ingonish Visitor Centre. Rain was breaking at times allowing for decent walks at Middle Head Trail and Ingonish Beach in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Very good sighting of several pilot whale pods from the tip of the peninsula.

After brief detour to South Harbour, we finished the day in Pleasant Bay. The rain was quite heavy at times, driving was slow and tiring. After extended debate we ended-up in local motel rather than camping at one of the day-time parking lots (a.k.a. National Park campgrounds). We were quite disappointed as we were driving on famous Cabot Trail and weather refused to cooperate all day – this was the  only time it happened during our entire trip.

Day 25

Sunny day with passing clouds. Confirmed at Whale Interpretative Center in Pleasant Bay that what we saw the day before were really pilot whales. Checked-out models of different whales at the beach. We spent the rest of the day on Skyline Trail, Bog Trail and Le Buttereau Trail. Skyline is very popular with many visitors, but offers great vistas, examples of local habitats and moose influence.

Talked with ranger about bog habitat and how plants (e.g. normally larger tamarack) respond to harsh environment, growing smaller and looking (?) half-dead. Hot/cold, windy, wet, acidic bog environment dominated by sphagnum mosses.

Cabot Trail (road) is very scenic winding south-west along Gulf of St Lawrence coast.  At Buttereau we were learning about Acadians and their settlement. Did not meet a black bear seen walking on the trail,  but once we saw tree full of aromatic, ripe apples we knew why it was there. Settled for the night at Cheticamp Campground (sites too close to one another with no trees, Cape Breton campgrounds are not like we are used to in National Parks).

Day 26

We liked morning hike on Salmon (fishing) Pools Road Trail,  10 km (return) along Cheticamp River, just from the end of Cheticamp campground. Few people, very quiet. Probably busy during fishing season. The river is coloured orange/brown by tanins, quite vivid when iluminated by sun and looked at an angle, then black-dark where water is deep (pools). Contrasting with surrounding greenery. Download Piotr’s GPX file

We then stopped for a short walk on Gypsum Mine Trail (near Cheticamp) and quick swim (Joanna) in the pool. Inspected small chips of gypsum minerals (selenite and perhaps alabaster) scattered around. Joanna visited Saint Peter’s Church. We arrived late at Whycocomagh Provincial Park. Acadian meat pie from local bakery for dinner after dark.

Day 27

First half of the day passed uneventfully, just driving and looking around, stopping to see Canso Causeway and Bridge connecting Cape Breton Island to Nova Scotia peninsula. Monotony settled-in after 4 weeks of travel. We were following weather forecasts and path of hurricane Lee as it was moving in the same direction as us: Prince Edward Island. It was expected to loose most of its energy and rain. We decided to ignore anxiety and continue as planned. By midday we were in Caribou boarding ferry to Prince Edward Island.

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Estern Canada road trip days 21-23: South Newfoundland

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Day 21.

The day started with great and sunny view from our room, good breakfast and talk with our host about whale watching. And we are on 7 km high cliff (Boutte du Cap) walk with beautiful views. Watching a few diving gannets, but no whales. Download Piotr’s GPX file

We spent all afternoon driving along the north side of Cape St George (Rte 463 then 460 and 490). Stopped for lunch at Tea By The Sea restaurant. Next stop: Long Point. Parked our car in Blue Beach at the end of the World of easily drivable gravel road. Joanna walked all the way to the very tip of narrow rock bar with sea on both sides, and we scrolled back to our car through grassy peninsula coloured with Alpine Asters. We did not see a person on our walk. Picked-up groceries in Stephenville, home to a former US Air Force base and international airport. We filled-up tank in Stephenville Crossing and shortly after crossing Hwy 1 started looking for a side road to camp as we were driving on Rte 480 toward Burgeo. Stopped at small turn-around on gravel forest road away from “main” road, nice.

Day 22.

The day started with surprise visit by local moose hunters at our campsite (first day of season). Continued south on Rte 480. There was a ferry loading cars at the end of the road in Burgeo. We asked if there was space for us and in no time we were seaborne for Ramea, mysterious behind dense fog. Completly unplanned, spontaneus decission. The island is small – we visited all corners in half a day. Walking slowly on Ramea walking trail (boardwalk) in quite dense fog most of the time, magical. No expansive vistas or whales, but quiet and relaxing. Talked to the man on duty at the lighthouse (fog horn instead of light that day) and had lunch at Eastern Outfitters. We took the ferry back and ended the day at Sandbank Provincial Park campground (only a few visitors there). It was one of the most memorable days of our trip.

Day 23.

We spent the first half of the day walking on endless beaches and  wetlands of Sandbank Provincial Park, very peaceful. In the afternoon we were back on Rte 480 and then Hwy 1 to Port aux Basques to catch 7-hour over-night ferry to New Sydney, Nova Scotia. This time we watched time and ticket availability to make sure we do not miss it. We bought reserved, more comfortable seats on the upper deck (9th level) to catch some sleep. Tried to find  a place to eat dinner  driving narrow streats of Port aux Basques all the way to the tip of the peninsula and Channel Head Lighthouse across water. No luck – settled for food at ferry terminal.

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