It was family visit, but also remembering hikes in Tatra Mountains some 40-50 years ago. The rocks remain the same making it all look familiar despite big changes in villages and valleys below. I wish I had more time for longer walks (perhaps next time), but in some ways, not surprisingly, I like remembering the way everything was back then.
Zakopane has great location as hiking base and immediate great views of the mountains. Many places to stay and eat. Overdeveloped in my opinion (rentals and restaurants). The weather was good, even if cloudy the first couple of days. We did driving tour on the first day just to look around: Zakopane and Krupówki (main=touristy street), town cemetery, Kościelisko (late lunch=dinner by polish clock at ☞ Gazdówka pod Lasem), Jaszczórowka, Cyrhla, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Murzasichle, Olcza.
Next day was all talking, but we managed short local sunset walk on OlczaÅ„ski Wierch. The following couple of days we did two short and very popular walks: to Dolina BiaÅ‚ego and Dolina Strążyska. We stopped at Villa Astoria (family history), continued up the BiaÅ‚y stream to Sarni Wodospad (waterfall), stopped for late lunch/dinner ☞ Karczma BiaÅ‚y Potok) and ended the day on Gubałówka. Gubałówka may be over commercialized, but so what – the panoramic view of Tatra Mountains is great. The following day we walked up to Siklawica (waterfall) at the end of Strążyski stream valley, just against north face of Giewont. The weather was great for hiking and the crowd was thin (by Zakopane’s standard). More Polish food at ☞ Javorina.
View from Gobałówka
Now we are heading to Zakliczyn via scenic, winding road along Dunajec (River) Valley. Panoramic views from the road of Tatry Bielskie and Tatry Wysokie (Slovakia). The river, lakes/reservoirs (Lake Czorsztyn, Lake Rożnow), castles (Czorsztyn, Melsztyn) and small towns (Stary Sacz, Zakliczyn). Some remnants of the past Małopolska atmosfere still left. Krzysztof Penderecki European Centre for Music and Lusławice house were shut closed = disappointment.
After initial design and multiple prototypes of our Forester minimalistic camper described in ☞ part 1, and testing on the road we are introducing additional improvements before heading west and north to Canada and Alaska on our longest road trip yet.
Quick set-up side-awning. Two telescoping poles and two brackets are attached along and at the ends  of cross-bars. Tarp packed in bag travels in roof box. Two webbing straps with grommets were added to off-the-shelf tarp. 1/4 in fiberglass poles are inserted into tarp channels on each side of the straps to keep the tarp stretched. Machine sawing was necessary. Car-side-end (top in the photo) hooks on pins on top of the brackets, side straps with buckles attach short flap to the poles and car roof rail. At the other end, grommets are hooked on metal tips of the poles which are extended to span the tarp. Short side-straps with grommets at this end can be used for additional vertical poles and/or cords to secure awning to the ground. No light-weight awning would work in strong wind.
New removable/washable cases for mattress and pilows. All foam pieces are  enclosed in additional inner cases. Comforter(s) is rolled-up with the mattress and pillows are bagged during travel (sometimes loaded in roof-top-box).
What goes into the roof-top-box (we could not do without it): folding table, two telescoping poles for awnings, our side-awning tarp, Hasika awning and its “vertical” poles, shovel, tarp and towel (wrapping and silencing), two folding chairs, rakes. We always keep walking poles in the box. Our stove packs in the box as well as recovery traction boards and backpacks with camping gear. Not everything goes on every trip.
Roll of plastic tablecloth and cutting board (in dedicated bags) travel on the back shelf. The board serves also as a temporary side-table supported by armrest and plastic strip with a pin attached to dashboard, in case we need mealtime shelter from rain or biting insects.
Two short rails were added on top of the back shelf (both sides) for extra attachment points for “stuff” and corner brackets were added to strenghten the shelf/drawer box.
Reading lamp is clamped on side-rail above the shelve and hooked-up to power bank. Baskets for small frequently used items are attached to the rails as well – pieces of bungee cord weaved through basket walls hold items down.
Three straps attach to buckles mounted on the shelf plus a piece of carpet  wrap around and hold rolled-up mattress.
The two plastic containers described in part 1, are now used one for kitchen items and one for food storage. All personal belongings are now packed using multiple organizers in easily accessible large duffel bag  sitting on the platform and on driver’s seat at night.
The improvements eliminate/streamline some packing-unpacking and moving stuff around.
We planned short trip to be in the path of total solar eclipse for long time, but waited until last minute watching weather forcasts to decide where to go. In the morning we drove to Green Sullivan State Forest in Indiana. Picked nice site at Wampler Campground just in time to watch the Sun and the Moon. Wearher was very good and we were not disappointed. It was spectacular. Joanna is already searching where we could see eclipse again.
Photos from 13:35 to 15:41 – two middle photos were taken without filter
Total eclipse April 8, 2024, 15:04-15:07
Next day, we parked at boat launch at Trimble Lake (W 150 S) and walked 6-mile red-trail-loop (counterclockwise) meandering between mounds, ravinies and ponds of flooded old strip coal mine restored in early 20th century as  ☞ Green Sullivan State Forest. We cooked late lunch at Orion shelter and headed back home.
We started thinking about road trip from Chicago to Alaska a while ago. We are hoping to finally make the trip this year, at least part of it to Canadian Rockies. Piotr started designing modifications we would need to make to be able to sleep in our 2014 Forester and have well organized space to load all the stuff. The work started in earnest in spring of 2020 with first parts/equipment purchased in June.  See also ☞ part 2.
There was no way we could make comfortable living space without replacing back seats with a platform extending from and leveled with the trunk floor. Piotr decided to use 30mm aluminum extrusion system (easy to install, modify or disassemble) for the support structure (strong, lightweight and using little space). No modifications were made to the car, no drilling holes for screws, nothing was glued. The design was flexible and many improvements followed. Photos illustrate design and main features. The platform was fully assembled in 2021 and tested for the first time (just 3 nights) on ☞ our trip to Isle Royale. Two plastic containers (with seals and latches to be water/dust-proof, and to keep rodents and pests out) are for food/kitchen and clothing. For the night they are stacked on passenger’s seat and duffel bag goes on drivers’ seat.
Driver’s seat does not have to be moved – Piotr takes longer space behind passenger’s seat which is moved forward for the night. Piotr made cut-to-shape foam mattress and pillows. On ☞ 2021 trip to California, we did not yet have roof-top cargo box:  our backpacks fully packed and ready for John Muir Trail had to be moved around which was rather annoying. They traveled behind rolled mattress, plastic containers and other stuff was on the platform behind front seats. For the night, we placed mesh screens on back windows to keep them slightly (1-3 cm) open (later we added rain protectors). It all already worked quite well.
Before long “true” ☞ road trip to the Southwest in 2022, we added shelf (workbench) with drawer, extra mattress memory foam layer, cargo box, straps to hold rolled mattress. The bottom of the drawer on the outside is covered with the same carpet as the platform. Plastic containers, our portable wash station and 20L drinking water container fit under the workbench when mattress is rolled-packed. Surprisingly, clearance between mattress and work bench which looks rather low was not a problem at night. The mesh pocket on the workbench did not work and is no longer used. We packed more tools, spare parts, repair kits and car recovery tools as driving on more remote dirt road was planned. All hidden away in places not really usable for everyday items.
Addition of the shelf and drawer was the biggest improvement and time-saver. Finally, we had place for all small, frequently used items, work space to prepare quick meal, place to keep many items within reach at night etc. See-through containers work well. They are easy to move around, keep everything dry and clean, and can serve as side-tables. We learned to keep them closed all the time – a mouse boarded our car when we were cooking dinner and travelled with us for a couple of days. It did not get to our food. Â We always travel with portable wash station and now added basket for soap, bug sprays, dishwashing detergent, sunscreen etc., everything easily accessible. Roof-top cargo box makes packing a lot easier and faster (backpacks packed and ready for Buckskin/Paria Canyon hike traveled there out of the way). Hasika awning fits Forester very well and can be easily packed in the cargo box. Piotr shortened legs of the Eurmax canopy so folded it fits snugly behind front seats, but it is heavy and bulky, not good for long trips.
There is quite a bit of packing space below the sleeping platform for items used less frequently. Â Air compressor for tires, car battery jump-starter, reserves of paper towels and toilet paper etc. It took us a bit of practice to figure out what to pack where. Space on the floor behind front seats is relatively accessible – we keep extra food there, bottles with drinking water, small cooler. There is flat bag behind passenger seat for small items. And we have mesh pockets on both sides for shoes (up to 3 pairs each), easy to load from the side before shutting doors for the night, or getting different shoes. There is enough space on the platform (with mattress rolled) to load groceries or firewood we pack away or use later in the day.
This is really quite minimalistic life-style – experience from multi-day hikes made the transition easier (Joanna thinks we take too much of everything). We already have a good routine for everything from what stuff to take with us, how and where to pack it to seting-up camp in different environments, preparing our car for the night and packing in the morning, sourcing and cooking food. Being prepared for mechanical problems and emergencies (lucky so far). Good organization and compartmentalization make huge difference. We have been quite lucky with weather. Extended rainy or very cold weather could make living out of Forester camper more challenging.  But there is always a weather forecast to get ready and wait the bad weather out in a motel or guest house, if necessary (we do it every 5-7 days anyway). Piotr is already on the next wave of improvements with new experience from 2024 ☞ Eastern Canada road trip.
Explanation of  shelf installation (in place of standar cargo area cover).
Quite a change of scenery since our ☞ last visit in the Fall of 2022. An unexpected early start to 2024 camping and hiking trips. Sunny and spring-like temperatures, surprisingly dry but very windy. Walked some 17 miles (plus more than 600 stairs) in two half-days, up and down familiar trails. Spoted a few bold eagles above the river, herons  on trees and migratory pelicans stopping for a night on the river. Tested some improvements to our Forester camper.