the wandering spot

March 28 – 30

Day 3 started quite early in the morning: we took Uber to the airport (PAC), flew to David and took another Uber to our accommodation in Boquete. It all worked well and after checking-in we had time for one trail: to Mirador Piedra de Lino. Our host drove us to the trailhead. The trail is short, but very steep (gaining 350m in 1km). Lots of good views, some dense cloud forest and more views of the Boquete valley from the top. On the way back we decided to take a longer, less steep trail – forest path with some scrambling around fallen trees and a little route finding, than a very nice mountain/plantation road. After reaching the trailhead we just started walking down the road towards Bouquete and luckily were able to flag a taxi to take us back to town.

We treated ourselves to Panamanian food at Restaurante Meye Bounore (recommended): sancocho (chicken stew/soup), hojaldra a caballo (beef, puff pastry, fried eggs), montuno vegetarians (tortillas with fried veggies). Long and tiring day. Boquete (ca. 1200 masl) and the trails we hiked there are on the slopes of Volcano Baru – at 3475 masl quite a mountain. Not as hot as in Panamanian lowlands by the sea but still very humid. There were no mosquitos and we did not know yet that we were attacked by chiggers, with long lasting bumps and itching developing over next few days.

Day 4 had to be an active but easy one – we needed rest after yesterday’s steep trail. First visit to Boquete Feria de las Flores: park (and market) along Rio Caldera full of blooming flowers, kitsch/fairy tale sculptures and very nice orchid exposition (Panama’s Annual Orchid Fair). A lot to see and photograph (recommended).

Finally, slow stroll in very nice Parque Bibliteca Boquete, popular with locals on Sunday afternoon, before Peruvian dinner at Inkas Boquete: anticucho (grilled beef heart) and parihuela ( seafood soup).

Day 5 had to be another hike. This time beautiful Sendero Los Quetzales in Volcan Barú National Park. Of course we wanted to find quetzals – partial success as we heard one or two flying close above us, but did not really see them. Then we heard them further away a couple of times. We now routinely use Merlin on hikes and walks, it tells us what is out there and what to look for. The trail is well maintained and rather easy, except steep last section to Mirador Las Rocas (almost all built steps). 10km and 720m altitude gain-day of walking through beautiful cloud forest with a good look at fog from the mirador (fog and clouds came in when we were approaching mirador). We were glad we had good views on the first day, and mist made the forest even more mysterious. At the end of the hike we were caught for almost an hour in rain, quite heavy at times. Other hikers with a car took us back to town.

In Boquete we shopped for groceries at local bakeries, fruit market and at Super Barú. Our room had kitchenette to prepare coffee and simple meals. Packing before bed to be ready for morning shuttle to Bocas del Toro. We liked the mountains, cloud forest and cooler temperatures, Joanna wished we had more days in Boquete to explore other trails.

March 26 – 27

We had really early morning start, but everything at O’Hare Airport worked normal and fast. We landed in Panama City on time and were at our airbnb in Balboa Ancon by late afternoon. It was one of the best airbnbs we have stayed in: large apartment, clean, well equipped and organized, quiet neighborhood and great hosts (recommended). The house is a typical residential architecture in Panama dating back to the canal construction era. Our very nice hosts took us on a quick car tour of the area and to Albrook to get groceries.

We then took local bus to Amador Causeway, as far as it went and started walking back slowly on a long pier built with rocks excavated during canal construction leading to small islands. City lights across water, silhouette of Ancon Hill, Biomuseo, Bridge of the Americas at the Pacific entrance to Panama Canal. Night Heron, small racoons, large crocodile swimming along the pier patiently looking for something and first sighting of a sloth moving “fast” in treetops. Stopped for dinner at Mi Ranchito Amador: corvina criolla and pulpo a la provenzal. On the bus trip back home we experienced traffic jam for which the city is famous.

The following day was just milling around Casco Viejo. It looks like it has been all restored recently. It is the second Panama City location, as the original was further along the coast where the highrises now stand. We took Uber to Plaza Tomas Herrera. After looking around for a while we visited Mola Museum – dedicated to reverse appliqué textiles designed and worn by Guna women. Then walked narrow streets and plazas of the old district, visiting some churches and ruins and strolling along the ocean. The day was sunny, quite hot and humid. Very nice and safe city.

In late afternoon we walked over to Mercado de Mariscos, closed already — to late to visit, but settled in one of several associated establishments, Restaurante Delicia Del Mar, for dinner: ceviche de combinación, cazuela marisco, jugo de maracuyá, Balboa. After dinner we walked a bit further along the coast and seaside parks. Came home by Uber and packed getting ready for morning flight to David.