Western Canada and Alaska road trip 2024

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on overview map) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Western Canada and Alaska Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). We hiked/walked more than 300 km.

Completed itinerary
Day   Destinations Overnight
1Jun14FriHarstad Park, Eau Claire RiverIL-WIHarstad CG
2 15SatVoyageurs NPMNWoodenfrog CG
3 16SunVoyageurs NPMNRiverFront Hotel, International Falls
4 17MonVoyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PPONRushing River CG
5 18TueKenora, Anicinabe ParkONKenora Traveloge
6 19WedTrans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PPMBTrans Canada Hwy wild camping
7 20ThuEcho Valley PPSKEcho Valley CG
8 21FriEcho Valley PP, Trans Canada HwySK-ABTel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
9 22SatDinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PPABLittle Fish CG
10 23SunMidland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell MuseumABTwo Jack Main CG
11 24MonBanff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, BanffABBanff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
12 25TueBanff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink PotsABLake Louise (hardsided) CG
13 26WedBanff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little BeehiveABLake Louise (softsided) CG
14 27ThuYoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields PkwyBC-ABWaterfowl Lakes CG
15 28FriIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier FallsABWaterfowl Lakes CG
16 29SatBanff NP: Chephren & Cirque LakesABWaterfowl Lakes CG
17 30SunBanff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya RiverABWaterfowl Lakes CG
18Jul1MonIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan GlacierABWilcox CG
19 2TueIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca GlacierABWilcox CG
20 3WedIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & FallsABJasper Becker’s Chalets
21 4ThuJasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose LakesABJasper Becker’s Chalets
22 5FriJasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander FallsAB-BCRobson Meadows CG
23 6SatMt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand FallsBCRobson Meadows CG
24 7SunYellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PPBCYellowhead Hwy wild camping
25 8MonYellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, KitwangaBCKitwanga Municipal CG
26 9TueCassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon GlacierBCGranduc Rd wild camping
27 10WedStewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear GlacierAK-BCDease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
28 11ThuCassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska HwyBC-YTAlaska Hwy wild camping 1
29 12FriAlaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, WhitehorseYTCaribou RV PK
30 13SatWhitehorse: Yukon River, Miles CanyonYTKaleido Lodge Whitehorse
31 14SunKlondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose CreekYTMoose Creek CG
32 15MonKlondike Hwy, Dawson City,  Diamond Tooth GertiesYTDawson City private room
33 16TueDawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon RiversYTDawson City private room
34 17WedYukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro DredgeYT-AKTaylor Hwy wild camping
35 18ThuAlaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson HwyAKChatanika Lodge
36 19FriFairbanks, ChatanikaAKChatanika Lodge
37 20SatFairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana RiverAKChatanika Lodge
38 21SunChena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot SpringsAKGranite Tors CG
39 22MonParks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NPAKRiley Creek CG
40 23TueDenali NP: Savage Alpine TrailAKRiley Creek CG
41 24WedDenali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral MountainAKRiley Creek CG
42 25ThuDenali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana RiverAKRiley Creek CG
43 26FriParks Hwy, TalkeetnaAKTalkeetna Cabin
44 27SatTalkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence MineAKEklutna Lake CG
45 28SunChugach SP, Eklutna LakeAKEklutna Lake CG
46 29MonEklutna, Anchorage, Ship CreekAKAnchorage Airbnb
47 30TueSeward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt AlyeskaAKGranite Creek CG
48 31WedChugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai LakeAKPrimrose CG
49Aug1ThuKenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding IcefieldAKResurection River wild camping
50 2FriResurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Seward AKNauti Otter Inn Seward
51 3SatKenai Fjords NP: Northwestern GlacierAKTrail River CG
52 4SunPtarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai LakeAKKenai Lake wild camping
53 5MonKenai River (Russian River Ferry)AKCooper Creek CG
54 6TueRussian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward HwyAKWilliwaw CG
55 7WedPortage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, AnchorageAKAnchorage Airbnb
56 8ThuGlenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina GlacierAKLake Louise Rd wild camping
57 9FriRichardson Hwy, Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson PassAKSheep Creek wild camping
58 10SatRichardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia GlacierAKValdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
59 11SunValdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old Valdez, Richardson Hwy, Edgerton HwyAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
60 12MonChitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien CreekAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
61 13TueMcCarthy Rd, Kennecott, Wrangell-St. Elias NPAKMcCarthy CG
62 14WedWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
63 15ThuWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
64 16FriWrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie MineAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
65 17SatWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina Trestle AKGilahina Trestle wild camping
66 18SunWrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy RdAKSnowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
67 19MonWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou CreekAKKendesnii CG
68 20TueWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum VolcanoAKKendesnii CG
69 21WedNabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska HwyAKDeadman Lake CG
70 22ThuAlaska HwyAK-YTHaines Junction Airbnb
71 23FriKluane NP: King’s ThroneYTKathleen Lake CG
72 24SatKluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias LakeYTKathleen Lake CG
73 25SunAlaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish LakesYTConrad CG
74 26MonKlondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, SkagwayYT-AKWestmark Skagway Hotel
75 27TueSkagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania PointAKWestmark Skagway Hotel
76 28WedKlondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska HwyYTAlaska Hwy wild camping 2
77 29ThuAlaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot SpringsYT-BCToad River Community CG
78 30FriToad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit LakeBCAndy Bailey CG
79 31SatAlaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PPBCHeart Lake CG
80Sep1SunJohn Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince GeorgeBCPrince George Airbnb
81 2MonCariboo Hwy, Green LakeBCGreen Lake Arrowhead CG
82 3TueCariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser RiverBCNairn Falls CG
83 4WedWhistler: Blackcomb & Whistler Mt, Half Note TrailBCWhistler RV PK
84 5ThuSea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Horseshoe Bay to Langdale FerryBCPorpoise Bay CG
85 6FriSunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Earls Cove to Saltery Bay Ferry, Eagle River Falls, Power River to Comox Ferry, Vancouver IslandBCSeal Bay RV PK
86 7SatVancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay ParkBCSeal Bay RV PK
87 8SunStrachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle LakeBCRalph River CG
88 9MonComox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin FallsBCComox Airbnb
89 10TueStrachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau LakesBCComox Airbnb
90 11WedCatherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific TrailBCSurf Junction CG
91 12ThuPacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia BayBCSurf Junction CG
92 13FriPacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver FerryBCSurrey Airbnb
93 14SatSurrey, Hwy I-5 & 20BC-WANewhalem Creek CG
94 15SunNorth Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge damWANewhalem Creek CG
95 16MonNorth Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby ArmWANewhalem Creek CG
96 17TueOkanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington PassWAKlipchuck CG
97 18WedDriving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee DamWA-IDCoeur d’Alene LaQuinta
98 19ThuDriving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald PassID-MTHelena Baymont Hotel
99 20FriDriving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, MedoraMT-NDSully Creek SP CG
100 21SatT. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal VeinNDCottonwood CG
101 22SunT. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & NorthNDCottonwood CG
102 23MonT. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to FargoNDFargo Expressway Suites
103 24TueDriving: I-94, I-90MN-WI-ILChicago

We like our converted Subaru and it works well for two as transportation (normal, small car) and camper (even if minimalistic). Roof cargo box lowers fuel efficiency on highways, but streamlines daily packing and “day-night-day” switch. Subaru life took some practicing and adjustments.

We traveled 26800 miles during ☞ 6 long road trips, plus some shorter trips. We drove more often on unpaved not so good, bumpy and dusty roads which accelerated wear on mechanical systems. It all cought-up with us on this long trip. We had problems with breaks (fixed in Kenora) and tires (fixed in Fairbanks), and ran into first signs of worn suspension-bearings (diagnosed in Surrey, fixed in Chicago after the trip). Rotated tires in Bellingham. Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

Piotr spent quite a bit of time designing, building and testing our Subaru minimalistic camper which made the road trips possible.

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

Highligts…

Western Canada and Alaska day 100-103: Theodore Roosevelt National Park and return to Chicago

Day 100.

We moved to Cottonwood Campground (South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt NP) in the morning (several good spots to choose from). We like NP campgrounds, well managed, good quality, almost never fail – and this one had good new bathrooms. We started up River Road and then continued on Scenic Loop Road as far as possible (the loop was closed at some point). Stops: bison herd, prairie dog city, Wind Canyon Trail, Boicourt Overlook, Buck Hill, Jones Creek, Coal Vein Trail. It was all day of lazy scrolling (mostly by car) and looking at badlands scenery. Very nice park, not crowded, lots of animals, vast views. A lot to photograph.

Day 101.

Moved again in the morning a few spots down the campground loop. We checked, bisons were still there and so were prairie dogs. But we spent the day in Petrified Forest in wilderness area of the park, after visiting Theodore Roosevelt cabin. We did move very slowly, starting on the south leg of the loop and then crossing off-trail to the north leg (we did not have time to walk full loop). We like to wander across badlands, trail or not (Badlands NP, Ah-shi-sle-pah and Bisti Wilderness) and here landscape was littered with thousands of petrified tree stumps, a lot to explore. Piotr showed good skills finding short-cut exploring carefully terrain with binoculars: first finding the shortest way avoiding small obstacles and then looking for solitary bisons as we did not want to meet them in bushes. We had to cross what looked like trails to water hole. It worked well ( not really that difficult).

Prairie dogs
Petrified forest

We were quite relaxed the last two days, as our road trip was coming to an end. We could finally slow down in place we did not even know for sure we would visit. We were really surprised what we found. Pictures tell it all.

Day 102-103.

Only driving home was left. We stopped at Skyline Vista and walked Painted Canyon Trail. We stayed overnight at Fargo Expressway Suites, then I-94 and I-90 to Chicago.

Western Canada and Alaska day 93-99: North Cascades National Park and heading East

Day 93.

We started noticed humming noise coming from car suspension past few days, so we visited Canadian Tire in Surrey to have it inspected. They did good job taking us in on short notice. Diagnosis: be ready to spend $$$ on suspension/bearings – we got it all fixed in Chicago after the trip, but stopped at Costco in Bellingham and Burlington WA to rotate tires as recommended and then check torque.

Driving: Surrey- border crossing (Douglas/Blaine) – Hwy I-5 – Hwy 20 – Newhalem. We used car inspection waiting time to restock for camping in North Cascades National Park. Then back to US – Joanna studied cross-border rules and we passed customs quickly with no problems. Newhalem Creek Campground is very good with large shaded sites. When we arrived everything looked closed for the season, but one loop was actually open and we found a good spot. Nature trail led to Visitor Center. We stayed there 3 nights.

Day 94. We only touched the surface of the park watching it from scenic Highway 20 and from 2 short trails above tree line. Three hydroelectric dams (electricity for Seattle) created beautiful lakes. True exploration of North Cascades requires backcountry hiking, we had the gear, but were already too tired on this trip. Piotr was getting sick and rested, Joanna checked out Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls and Gorge Dam walking from campground.

Day 95.

Visited Gorge and Diablo Lakes, Ruby Arm by driving around and stopping from time to time. Lakes were beautiful shades of blue, turquoise and green on that sunny day. We hiked scenic 6 km Thunder Knob Trail with views of Diablo Lake.

Day 96.

Last day in the west and we both didn’t feel well, but we still managed short 7 km hike to Lake Ann, stopped at Washington Pass Overlook and continued on Hwy 20 to Klipchuck Campground in Okanogan National Forest, as far as we could go that day. We arrived quite early and decided to rest as much as possible. We had good spots to choose from, campground was quiet, few people, sunny weather.

Day 97.

Driving: Hwy 20, 155 – Coulee Dam – Hwy 174, 2, I-90 – Coeur d’Alene. Stopping at scenic overlooks etc. Overnight at Coeur d’Alene LaQuinta.

Day 98.

Driving: Hwy I-90, 12 – MacDonald Pass (short walk near Continental Divide Trail) – Hwy 12 – Helena. Overnight at Helena Baymont Hotel.

Day 99.

Driving: Hwy 12 – Forsyth – Hwy I-94 – Medora. We arrived at Theodore Roosevelt National Park late and all campgrounds were already full, but we found a spot at nearby Sully Creek State Park Campground just for the night planning to move to Cottonwood National Park campground in the morning.

We traveled 1000 miles in 3 days spending most of the time on highways, section to Helena scenic and interesting, the rest rather boring. Our health improved quickly, resting comfortably two nights in good motels helped.

Western Canada and Alaska day 87-92: Vancouver Island

Day 87.

Slow rolling through towns/cottages along the coast from Seal Bay Campground to Campbell River. Slow, but relaxing and we could see how people live around here. And then inland along Upper Campbell and Buttle Lakes to Strathcona Provincial Park. Two short hikes: Karst Creek and Wild Ginger Trails. We settled at Ralph River Campground with plenty of time for cooking, camp fire and meandering walk on Buttle Lake shore until sunset. All very quiet, not too many visitors.

Day 88.

All day to explore Myra Creek area of Strathcona Provincial Park. We first drove to the end of Buttle Lake, crossed Thelwood Creek and visited (short trail) Lower Myra Falls: multiple small cascades over rock steps flowing down into the lake. We then continued to the end of public Western Mine Rd, parked there and hiked up to Upper Myra Falls on slightly longer trail. Cheered every big tree still standing along the way. On the way back, we stopped briefly at Lupin Falls and returned to Comox via faster Hwy 19. Piotr insisted we stayed in town near the repair shop rather than camping to deal with car repair as quickly in the morning as possible. Joanna found a nice, modern and well equipped apartment on Airbnb.

Day 89.

Tuesday started with visit to car glass shop. All went smoothly. Still had better part of the day to visit Forbidden Plateau/Mt Washington part of Strathcona Provincial Park. Walked very nice 13 km “lake” loop from Paradise Meadows: Battleship, Lady, Croteau and Helen Mackenzie Lakes. Back for the night to our Comox Airbnb.

Day 90.

We were heading west to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. We could not resist and stopped at Cathedral Grove (old growth stands of Douglas Fir and other trees) to walk through another wet, green and mossy temperate rainforest (MacMillan Provincial Park). We decided to stay at quality Surf Junction Campground’s more remote Sunny’s Loop (very popular National Park campground was full). Community Building where we cooked meals (it rained at times) and showers are located in the loop. We arrived early and had several spots to choose from. We spent the rest of the day in Ucluelet on Wild Pacific Trail and beaches (Terrace and Big).

Day 91.

More rainforest in the morning (Trail B) and then ranger’s walk in beach tidal zone near Kwisitis Visitor Centre. Well spent hour. The rest of the day was for exploring various beaches: Long, Wickaninnish, Lismer, South, Florencia Bay. Returned to Surf Junction Campground.

We spent more time on the Island than we planned, but weather was good and we enjoyed change of scenery after spending time traveling across high mountains and glaciers, taiga and tundra. Now it was walking in temperate rain forests with old stands of Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir many hundred years old, and visiting rocky shores and beaches on the Pacific coast. Ocean breeze, atmosphere changing quickly between sunny, cloudy, fogy and rainy (nothing extreme) – both ecosystems have mysterious, fairy tale look.

We spent good amount of time finding and photographing things on sand, rocks and in tidal pools. Piotr had nice conversation with another photographer doing the same.

Day 92.

Last day in Canada and we definitely felt we were heading home now, almost 4000 km away. Pacific Rim, Alberini and Island Highways to Nanaimo with short stops at Kennedy Lake and Sproat Lake Petroglyphs, lunch at The Clam Bucket in Port Alberni (clam chowder and clams & mussels bucket with grilled baguettes – very good). Joanna tried to find whales from Nanaimo (Duke Point) to Vancouver (Tsawwassenn) Ferry, but weather turn rainy and visibility bad. When we arrived two hours later, it was already 8 pm – heavy rain and dark. Suddenly all drivers were in big hurry like there was a big city nearby. It took Piotr some patient and careful driving, and Joanna quick navigation decisions to get us to our Surrey Airbnb.

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