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The weather was not good for hiking, clouds and passing rain. We decided to drive north to Portree to be close to Quiraing. On the way, we bought tickets for morning tour and tasting at Talisker (next day) and we bought some beer from Isle of Skye Brewing Co in Uig. We visited archeological site in Kilvaxter, museum and graveyard in Kilmuir. With weather improving somewhat we turned back towards Uig and arrived at the upper Quiraing trailhead (on C1225) just as the Sun started to come out. We walked on the lower trail with quite a few other hikers, fewer and fewer as we kept going in the rain later on. By the time we made it to the top of the loop, the weather was deteriorating and visibility was quite poor. We decided to return the same way anticipating wind to be unpleasantly strong on the upper trail. We were soaked by the time we came back to our car. Not giving up, we stopped at Mealt Waterfall and made a quick run in the rain to Old Man of Storr, and that was enough for the day. The rain stopped by the time we made it to Portee to look around, have late lunch (Fish & Chips on Quay St) and buy groceries (Co-Op).

Quiriang (7 km)

Quiriang from trailhead (upper) on Quiraing Road (C1225) and return. 7 km, 450 m total ascent.
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The next day we were ready for another hike, but we started by visiting Talisker Distillery in Carbost  ☞ Talisker  (recommended), a short drive from Portnalong. The tour was well organized and disciplined, informative. Talisker taste is distinct and takes time to appreciate. We did some prep work in Chicago. We parked our car at Glen Brittle beach, walked through the campsite and up on Lochan Coire Lagan trail (recommended). The trail is easy, with some rock scrambling at the end, it was a beautiful hike. We walked near small waterfall and around the little lake with views changing between sunny and dense fog. We walked down on a different trail, via Loch an Fhir-bhallaich, around the village and back to the beach.We spent an hour strolling on the beach at low tide. We got a good view of Fairy Pools valley  and drove to Portnalong pier before returning to But & Ben.

Lochan Coire Lagan (10 km)

Glen Brittle beach trailhead-Lochan Coire Lagan, return via Loch an Fhir-bhallaich, 10 km, 600 m total ascent.
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After full-day Ben Nevis hike we decided to take it easy = short walk to Lost (Hidden) Valley. The weather was very nice, mostly sunny and the trail was packed, the hike was still very pleasant. Three Sisters trailhead parking lot (on A82) was full, not well organized mix of cars and buses. By the time we walked to the top-end of the valley the crowd thinned. We looked up towards Bidean Nam Bian, alternative trail in case we could not hike Ben Nevis. Looking at the trail climbing up was enough for us that day. On the way down we took a different, less popular trail with good views over the valley.

Lost Valley (5.5 km)

Lost Valley from Three Sisters trailhead (on A82), 5.5 km, 300 m total ascent.
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We then drove to Glen Etive and stopped at Loch Achtriochtan on the way back. Martyna took our car to Signal Rock Cottages and we had dinner at Clachaig Inn Restaurant, a short walk from our cottage. Scottish food (smoked haddock, highland game pie) and beers with unfamiliar names (Red MacGregor/Orkney, Rubus/Windswept).

The following day we were ready to go to Skye. We drove from Signal Rock to Skye Bridge via Ballachulish (grocery shopping at Co-Op), Fort Wiliam, Invergarry, Eilean Donan Castle and Kyle of Lochalsh. The view of the castle is quite impressive/dramatic (we did not have time or desire to go inside). Seafood at ☞ Fishermen’s Kitchen (opened recently in new place) was really good, despite fast-food type set-up (cullen skink (smoked haddock soup), seafood salad, crab salad with baked potato, boiled langoustines). On Skye, we drove to Fairy Pools trailhead via Sligachan and Satran. The ground was soaked after recent rain and the trail was muddy, which did not stop many visitors having fun. Parking lot was half-empty. Our plan was to go up too, but we decided to go for Glen Brittle Forest walk instead. With fog and light rain coming and going it was good decision. We were a bit higher above the valley with panoramic views of Glenn Brittle from easy forest road, when the fog partially lifted. We settled at But&Ben in Portnalong ☞ Croft Bunkhouse (recommended), our Skye base. Great, remote location, comfortable bedroom and large, fully equipped kitchen/living room.

Glen Brittle Forest Rd (11 km)

From Fairy Pools car park (on C1237) to Fairy Pools trailhead then SE on Glen Brittle forest road and return. 11 km, 350 m total ascent.
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