After morning game drive and breakfast in Meru, we drove for 7 hours  around Mt Kenya to Nanyuki and back to Nairobi. Nice views, passing small towns and villages, observing local life along the highway. Many people in Kenya just walk on or along the roads, even main highways.
Rift Valley
Khat plantation
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Next day, we spent relaxing afternoon with our friends at Kiambethu Tea Farm (20 km NW from Runda/Nairobi) learning about growing and harvesting tea, about different types of tea, tasting some teas from local farms. We brought their black tea with us to Chicago.  We heard the family story of the plantation and had a short nature walk, followed by delicious lunch on the lawn in front of the old plantation family house,  which now serves also as a visitor center.
Tea everywhere
Ready to harvest
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Plantation family house
We spent last day in Nairobi meeting animals up close, made possible by organizations that save orphaned, injured and endangered animals. Visitors are one source of income used to support the animals and to educate on wildlife and environment conservation. We visited three places all located on the edges of Nairobi National Park, 15-20 km SW from Nairobi center. The Giraffe Center saves and breeds endangered Rothschild’s Giraffes. It’s fun to feed giraffes by hand and watch them so close. David Sheldrick’s Elephant Orphanage saves orphaned and injured elephants and reintroduces them to the wild (which takes about 10 years). Most are in trouble because of conflicts with people (mothers killed or injured by poachers, some trapped in illegal wells). Some are handicapped and will be released to spent their lives with other problem animals. You can adopt one, helping in its upbringing. It was very exciting to see over 20 baby elephants run to get their morning milk and play, and to hear their (sad) stories.
Sheldrick’s Elephant Orphanage
We also visited Safari Walk, large and nice ZOO, quite pricy and not comparable to the other two places. Not safari, but we saw leopard and met cheetah, and many other animals reminding us all the game drives. Our friend took us to the airport for late evening flight back home.
We spent one night in Chogoria after our Mt Kenya trek. We were a bit of an attraction in this small town – surprisingly not too many tourists stay there.  Then we drove through the hills and plantations, stopped at roadside market to buy fresh fruits and veggies for two days in Meru NP. We passed interesting villages, banana and khat (local stimulant legal in Kenya) trade centers. We stayed at park-managed self-catering Murera cottages just inside the park near the river. Very comfortable and pleasant. We were the only tourists there and, as far as we can tell, in the entire park. We had very good driver-guide and excellent cook for this part of our trip with Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions  (recommended). We made all the arrangements by e-mail from Chicago, followed by short briefing in Nairobi. Good communication before and during the trip was key to making it successful. All people were very friendly, open to suggestions and requests.
More on our tour operator Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions
We were very happy with everything on our Sirimon-Chogoria trekking part of the trip, except for inflatable sleeping mats – we took 3 Â and all of them had holes. The porters tried to fixed them, but it didn’t work. Â Luckily it meant only one night on three deflated sleeping mats for one of us. We were quite upset about it at the time and urged the company to use a different more reliable source of rental equipment in the future. The guide should also check all the equipment carefully before the hike. There was no way we could do it ourselves. The tent was very good and warm, but someone had to bring it while we were already hiking because it was forgotten. Because of the rain, we slept in the tent (on deflated mats) only one night.
We really appreciated the flexibility of being able to change the itinerary on the run. Our guide was able to communicate by phone and make all the changes/arrangements. We wanted to ascend slower, but because of a downpour on day one, soaked the ground and us, it was not practical. We skipped an intermediate camp (Liki North, not the best spot to tent in wet weather we were told) and went to a higher elevation already on day two to sleep in a hut (Shiptons). The following day our crew was reluctant to stay at a higher camp (Upper Simba Tarn, 4,600 masl) closer to the Lenana summit, our first choice,  but considering the bad  mats (we didn’t know it yet at the time) and cold, dump weather it was good we didn’t stay there. We made it to the summit  (in clouds) from Shipton’s, no problem. The guide, cook and porters were all very good and well organized, the food was good, warm and plentiful (although mostly fried) with fresh fruits etc – amazing on the mountain. Everything was on time and the guid adjusted hiking tempo to our abilities and frequent photo stops. He knew well what he was doing. The hike itself, landscape and nature, is of course exceptional. We met no other hikers on the trail, just  a few other parties at camp sites.
The Meru trip was also good. We appreciated the driver/guide and cook coming to Chogoria the night before to start the second part of the trip earlier in the morning the next day. Another good adjustment on the go to make good use of our time after we made it to Chogoria earlier than planned. They were both very good and the cook followed our request to avoid fried food. He made delicious stews etc – probably the best food on our entire Kenya trip (better than in lodges in other parks). Â We liked the cottages ( Murera Bandas near the park entrance) very much, although it would probably be better to stay deeper in the park (Kinna Cottages), closer to the areas with more animals. There was no hot water in the shower, but it was not big deal as it was hot in Meru. Our room was large and comfortable. The porch at our cabin was our kitchen and dinning room with nice view at dense vegetation along the nearby river, visited all the time by monkeys and birds, and buffalos passing by within feet from our windows one night. Very relaxing rest time between safaris. There were no other visitors staying at the bandas. The safari van was well prepared and we drove to different corners of the park. There are fewer animals in Meru and they seem to be more shy than in other parks, but no tourists at all. It’s a pity people don’t come there. The early morning drive (before breakfast) on the last day was the best. Our crew made a good run to find us a family of elephants to keep their promise. We made it back to Nairobi safely.
We really appreciate the flexibility and everybody’s efforts to make us happy – we had very good time.
Banana market on the way to Meru
Our cook getting fruits and veggies for the trip
Murera cottages in Meru NP
Lunch on the porch
Ready for game drive
Marabou stork gathering
Reticulated giraffes
Meru landscape
Another sunset
Vervet monkeys, baboons and birds were visiting us at meal times, and buffalo herd passed right under our windows at night. I expected lush jungle-like vegetation in Meru, however most of the park was dry, crisscrossed by many rivers and streams with palms and other trees (including baobabs) along them. The first afternoon we visited rhino sanctuary. There was construction of rangers/park headquarters going on and therefore no animals in that corner of the park, but we found 4 white rhinos in a swamp at the end of the drive. Next day we had morning and afternoon drives. Animals in Meru are similar as in Samburu: oryx, ostrich, kudu, reticulated giraffe, and zebra, but they are more shy because they are not yet so used to cars and people. Adult giraffes check traffic before crossing the road.
Giraffe family crossing the road, Meru
Very few tourist visit this park – it was great to have it all to ourselves, but a pity that people don’t go there. It’s very nice, relaxed park with beautiful landscapes, surrounded by picturesque mountains and hills. Finally, we had early morning drive (before breakfast) on last day and it was great. Sky was dramatic with dark clouds. We visited hippo pool and wetlands, and found large family of elephants with 5 day-old baby suckling milk and big sister on duty not sure if she should charge our car – in the end she decided it was OK since mother was very calm. Although animals are more difficult to find in Meru, it was nice and relaxing end to our safaris.
For the next leg of our trip we had crew switch set-up in Chogoria: hiking crew (guide, cook and three porters) for Mt Kenya trek and safari crew (driver/guide and cook) for Meru National Park. All arranged by Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions  (recommended).
More on our tour operator Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions
We were very happy with everything on our Sirimon-Chogoria trekking part of the trip, except for inflatable sleeping mats – we took 3 Â and all of them had holes. The porters tried to fixed them, but it didn’t work. Â Luckily it meant only one night on three deflated sleeping mats for one of us. We were quite upset about it at the time and urged the company to use a different more reliable source of rental equipment in the future. The guide should also check all the equipment carefully before the hike. There was no way we could do it ourselves. The tent was very good and warm, but someone had to bring it while we were already hiking because it was forgotten. Because of the rain, we slept in the tent (on deflated mats) only one night.
We really appreciated the flexibility of being able to change the itinerary on the run. Our guide was able to communicate by phone and make all the changes/arrangements. We wanted to ascend slower, but because of a downpour on day one, soaked the ground and us, it was not practical. We skipped an intermediate camp (Liki North, not the best spot to tent in wet weather we were told) and went to a higher elevation already on day two to sleep in a hut (Shiptons). The following day our crew was reluctant to stay at a higher camp (Upper Simba Tarn, 4,600 masl) closer to the Lenana summit, our first choice,  but considering the bad  mats (we didn’t know it yet at the time) and cold, dump weather it was good we didn’t stay there. We made it to the summit  (in clouds) from Shipton’s, no problem. The guide, cook and porters were all very good and well organized, the food was good, warm and plentiful (although mostly fried) with fresh fruits etc – amazing on the mountain. Everything was on time and the guid adjusted hiking tempo to our abilities and frequent photo stops. He knew well what he was doing. The hike itself, landscape and nature, is of course exceptional. We met no other hikers on the trail, just  a few other parties at camp sites.
The Meru trip was also good. We appreciated the driver/guide and cook coming to Chogoria the night before to start the second part of the trip earlier in the morning the next day. Another good adjustment on the go to make good use of our time after we made it to Chogoria earlier than planned. They were both very good and the cook followed our request to avoid fried food. He made delicious stews etc – probably the best food on our entire Kenya trip (better than in lodges in other parks). Â We liked the cottages ( Murera Bandas near the park entrance) very much, although it would probably be better to stay deeper in the park (Kinna Cottages), closer to the areas with more animals. There was no hot water in the shower, but it was not big deal as it was hot in Meru. Our room was large and comfortable. The porch at our cabin was our kitchen and dinning room with nice view at dense vegetation along the nearby river, visited all the time by monkeys and birds, and buffalos passing by within feet from our windows one night. Very relaxing rest time between safaris. There were no other visitors staying at the bandas. The safari van was well prepared and we drove to different corners of the park. There are fewer animals in Meru and they seem to be more shy than in other parks, but no tourists at all. It’s a pity people don’t come there. The early morning drive (before breakfast) on the last day was the best. Our crew made a good run to find us a family of elephants to keep their promise. We made it back to Nairobi safely.
We really appreciate the flexibility and everybody’s efforts to make us happy – we had very good time.
We decided to take Sirimon – Chogoria Mt Kenya route – Â it is the longest route, but with 6 days/5 nights we planned to go slow to adjust to the altitude and enjoy the nature. Nature however brought rain and we had to adjust our plan: go directly to Shiptons Camp (for two nights) rather than spending one night at an intermediate Liki North Camp (tent). The change gave us an easy day for a short acclimatization hike to Hausberg Col. Because of wet weather, we stayed in huts rather than tent, except for one night at Mintos Camp (no hut there). We also asked to be picked up at Chogoria Gate which saved as quite a bit of walking, so we could go slower, but still end up in Chogoria by the end of day 5. This way we were able to leave earlier next morning and have more time for an afternoon game drive at Meru NP. The hike was ~47 km long with 3100 total ascent.
Mt Kenya Sirimon-Chogoria route
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Mt Kenya trail profile (Google Earth Pro)Â
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Trek day 1
First, we drove some 200 km (5 hours) from Nairobi (1,800 masl) to Nanyuki (1,900 masl). After lunch and trek briefing we drove 25 km (45 minutes) more to Sirimon Gate (2,650 masl) and then walked  ~9 km (3.5 hours), with one hour in heavy rain and hail, to Old Moses Camp (3,300masl). The road to Old Moses was paved not long ago, which was a surprise (we do not like hiking on paved roads), but it was easy, steady hike through bamboo, rosewood and giant heather forest (did not see any large animals), up until we got caught in rain – now it was easier to walk on paved road rather than muddy trail.  Luckily, we were prepared and had everything in our backpacks double packed in garbage bags, but still our backpacks and whatever we were wearing got wet. There was no way we could pitch our tents at campsite which turned into wetland, we stayed in the hut. We had warm food and comfortable bunk beds, started drying our stuff.
Our guide, cook and three porters getting ready to hit the trail with us at the…
…Sirimon Gate
Old Moses Camp an hour after we arrived
Trek day 2
From Old Moses Camp we walked ~13 km (8 hours) to Shiptons Camp (4,236 masl). With change of plans, we knew it was going to be a long day, but we could afford it and there was no reason for us to rush. The trail is easy, but gains 900 m to over 4,000 masl, so we needed time to ease acclimatization. Scenery was beautiful, exotic (for us) plants: giant lobelias (Lobelia deckenii), ostrich plume lobelias (Lobelia telekii) and giant groundsels (Dendrosenecio) endemic to Mt. Kenya, and birds. Weather was not too bad (no rain, some drizzle). We crossed Ontulili and Liki rivers, descended into Mackinder Valley, passed Mackinder Caves before arriving at Shiptons. On the way, we got a good view of the valleys and a glimpse of the rocks high up. At Moses and Shiptons, hiking crews had their own quarters with kitchen to prepare meals served in large dining rooms. At Shiptons  small birds and rock hyraxes, and of course mice, came to dining room looking for snacks. Food was  good, fresh and plentiful.
Moorland
Drizzled at times
Open panoramas all the way to the clouds on the horizon
And then cleared a bit
The trail meanders through magical landscape with interesting plants
The sky clears and we can see the Point Lenana massif, triangle peak at the end of Mackinder Valley
Trail in Mackinder Valley
Mackinder Caves
Small giant lobelia (on the right)
The last stretch before reaching Shiptons Camp, just above Mackinders Caves, looking back at where we came from
Shiptons Camp (hut)
Clouds moving back in mixing with the rocks in front of Batian and Nelion, the highest summits of Mount Kenya
Trek day 3
From Shiptons Camp we hiked 3 km loop (2.5 hours) to Hausberg Col (4,591 masl) with  return via Kami Camp (4,439 masl). We started the day around 6 am excited about open view of the Mountain in rising Sun. It was easy and slow day good for acclimatization, which we did not start until 9 am. Good practice on scree. Decent views. In the afternoon we walked towards Lower Simba Tarn, not too far –  just to keep muscles warm, and to get ready for Lenana next morning. We felt the altitude a bit. Our shoes finally dried.
Sunrise over Batian and Nelion
Going up towards Hausberg Col (pass)
Oblong Tarn (lake) and Hausberg Tarn on the other side of the pass
Building stone pyramid (andean tradition) at Hausberg Col depicting Batian, Nelion and Lenana
Rock hyrax
Giant groundsels
Clouds are coming back, hoping they will go away by next morning
Ostrich plume lobelia and giant groundsels
Afroalpine vlei rats grazing at Shiptons Camp
Trek day 4
From Shiptons we hiked up ~2 km (almost 4 hours) to Point Lenana (4,985 masl), then ~4 km (6 hours) down to  Mintos Camp (4,290) via Simba Col (4,630 masl). We started hiking shortly after 5 am in the dark with temperature a bit below freezing. We warmed up quickly when the sun came out behind the clouds and we hit steep scree. With clouds, but no precipitation, we kept pushing towards the summit hoping the Sun burns off clouds by the time we get there. It got windy and cold again near the summit, visibility was only a couple hundred meters or less at times. Rocks at the summit were covered with ice. We hanged around the summit for a while taking pictures, but without good views we started descending shortly. The weather improved and was quite nice, although changing quickly, by the time we made it to Mintos Camp. Walked around near Hall Tarns before dinner. Piotr slept on three deflated (punctured) rented sleeping mats (luckily just one night), but tent was good and warm.
Point Lenana 4,985 masl, just a few more steps up
Point Lenana. The highest peaks of Mt Kenya, Batian and Nelion are 5,199 and 5,188 masl, but require technical rock climbing, not for us
You get this improvised “vintage”look when you forget and leave your hiking gear at home
Via ferrata Olonana leading to the summit is the highest in the World
Rare view of Simba Tarn on the way down to Simba Col
With improving weather…
…the views are getting better as we walk down …
…towards and along Gorges Valley to Mintos Camp
One of the Hall Tarns
Trek day 5
From Mintos Camp we walked down ~15 km (5.5 hours) to Chogoria Gate (2,950 masl). On the way, we made 1 km side hike from Roadhead (3,200 masl) to Nithi Waterfalls. After lunch we drove 28-30 km (1 hour) to Chogoria (1,540 masl) where we stayed for the night at Lizlo Hotel.  It was really nice downhill hike along Gorges Valley with great views into the valley and towards Lake Michaelson, and back towards the Mountain which was still hidden in clouds. The weather was perfect, warm and partially sunny. We could observe changes in landscape and vegetation as we were descending to lower altitudes: from alpine to equatorial/tropical.  Moorland, big trees, lichens and mosses, cloud forest at times. Driving from the gate to Chogoria was too fast to see much, but we thought it would be nice to hike through the forest part of the park as well. We parked at Lizlo Hotel, went for a walk along main street and met with our tour manager to talk everything over. They made really good effort with all the changes to make our trip better. There is cell connection in many spots on the Mountain (if you know where to find them) and we were able to make new arrangements while  hiking. Our safari driver/guide and cook arrived day earlier from Nairobi, so that we could go to Meru and start safari earlier next day.
Finally we were able to travel a bit on our own by matatus, frist to Naivasha and then to Westlands/Nairobi (shopping mall) were we were picked up by our friend. Some 120 km and 3 hours total. First matatu was supposed to go directly to Naiorobi, but of course we had to switch vans and wait in Naivasha.
Matatu stop in Naivasha
Luckily, both matatu drivers were good and patient, especially older driver for the ride from Naivasha to Nairobi. Traffic and driving on main highway was really tough and dangerous. First matatu was small and very crowded, the second had more space and took more or less as many passengers as there were seats. I (Joanna) happened to sit at the back next to recent collage graduate who studied biotechnology – and this was also my major! We chatted the whole way to Nairobi about biotechnology, research, industry, agriculture, healthcare, gardening, food and customs, I had great time. Piotr was not so lucky at the front with too good view of dangerous and hectic traffic. For the rest of the day and following day we were sleeping, washing and shopping, and relaxing (and Joanna was fighting a stomach bug) before next leg of our trip to Mt Kenya and Meru.
Joanna is in, they freed seat for me by moving people and cargo around
Watching matatu drivers and handlers at the Naivasha stop…
It was 5.5- hour drive from Mara to Lake Naivasha, where we were dropped off at Fishermen’s Camp, several kilometers from Naivasha, directly on the lakeshore. Finally on our own! We came early enough for boat ride on Lake Oloiden, short hike  at Crater Lake and on-foot evening nature walk.
On the way to Naivasha, roadside business, tourist stop with souvenirs, heavy goat traffic on the main street
Water “safari” on Lake Oloiden, nature walk at Crater Lake National Park
We went with hired car and driver from Fisherman’s Camp, which worked very well. Both places were great, we highly recommend community boat tour on small green Oloiden Lake instead of large Lake Naivasha – we were the only tourists there. We saw several pods of hippos, countless birds and many animals on shore.
Hippos in Oloiden Lake
Then we walked part of Crater Lake rim and drove and hiked in game sanctuary. So nice to be on foot watching extended giraffe family with several babies, antelopes and other grazers. It was getting late, we still saw hyena (from car). I wish we had more time there, but evening was perfect to see  animals. On the way back a huge giraffe was walking along the road (there is nature corridor between small and large lake) – I just saw long legs next to the car window.
Water full of green algae
Hippos
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Great white pelicans, cormorants and yellow-billed storks
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Crater Lake
Finally a chance to walk
Spotted hyena
Hippos watching as our boat gets closer and cuts them off from the shore a bit
In the camp hippos came to shore after dark to graze (electric fence separates them from people at night ). There were monkeys and so many birds, very close. We stayed first night at a banda which was very old with bathroom in need of urgent upgrade, not good and way overpriced. We switched to cottage for 2 nights, slightly more expensive, but so much better. Restaurant had very good food and good travel atmosfere.
Papyrus at our camp, fishermen on Lake Naivasha
Sunset (left) and … sunrise at Lake Naivasha
Biking and hiking in Hell’s Gate National Park
Next day we rented bikes to ride in Hell’s Gate National Park. We didn’t want to ride on main road from camp, so we tried to rent bikes at park gate – they were all in bad condition. We went back down dirt road and got slightly better ones. We were “pushed” a bit to hire guide which I regret as we would prefer to spend more time exploring on our own (except when we asked the guide to go first to face scary  buffalo). Nice to see many animals without car – antelopes, giraffes, zebras, warthogs, and vary friendly rock hyraxes near Fischer’s tower. Scary to pass a buffalo so close. We went for a hike in very narrow Ol Njorowa gorge with hot springs. Biking back at midday was hot and tiring. We relaxed at the camp in the afternoon watching birds and monkeys.
Hells’s Gate
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Buffalo kicking up dust close to the trail…
impalas crossed… all clear
Warthogs grazing by the trail
Rock hyrax
Ol Njorowa gorge
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Rim hike, Mount Longonot National Park
We travelled with the same driver to Mt Longonot National Park, hiked ~2.5 km from park gate to the rim and then ~6 .5 km all the way around the crater, and back to the gate (11.5 km, total elevation gain ~900 m, 2140-2776 masl). This time on our own, without a guide – it’s an easy hike although some parts are steep and dusty. We heard that buffalos on the trail could slow us down. Didn’t see any animals (small herd of cows on side of the mountain), only footprints. We met other hikers from Fisherman’s Camp, they returned with us to the village, where we had chapati with vegetables at a very local place called  “5 Star Hotel”  :). We strolled through two small villages and a market. Our new friends helped us find shoemaker’s shop set-up in the ditch by the road, my shoes were fixed very professionally while we were waiting – they are still fine – and it was a lot of fun too. A good warm-up before Mt Kenya.
Mt Longonot
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Mt Longonot, 2,776 masl
We came from there…the park gate is down from the rim (on the left)
…heading towards the summit…
…summit behind us
Visiting the village with hikers we met at Mt Longonot
Looking around for somebody to fix Joanna’s shoe soles eaten away by volcanic ash and pumice on Mt Longonot …found the right guy
Relaxing at Fishermen’s Camp
With so many animals, lush vegetation and lake it’s great place to relax. Too bad we didn’t have time/energy for camp fire. We watched bands of Superb starlings instead.
Superb starlings at Fishermen’s Camp
Our cottage at Fishermen’s Camp, for wildlife we just looked around
More on our tour operator Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions
Mt Kenya Sirimon-Chogoria route
Mt Kenya trail profile (Google Earth Pro)Â 
