In Poznan you go for dinner to Georgian (საქართველო) restaurant, of course.
7 days in Croatia and Bosnia (Piotr)
Day 1: Split
Itinerary: Poznan ➜ (Ryanair) ➜ Zadar (Hertz rental car) ➜ Dugopolje ➜ Split ➜ Studios Zdenka Matice Hrvatske ➜ Old Town -Diocletilan’s Palace-four gates-Cathedra-National Square ➜ National Theater
Day 2: Mostar
Itinerary: Split ➜ Dugopolje ➜ Bijača ➜ Mostar ➜ Apartments Soltis Braće Trbonja ➜ Old Bridge
Day 3 & 4: Sarajevo
Itinerary: Mostar ➜ Neretva Valley ➜ Sarajevo ➜ Apartaments Town Center Mjedenica ➜ Cathedral-Baščaršija-Latin Bridge-Miljacka-City Hall-Šamon HoReCa shop & market-National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina ➜ (cable car) ➜ Trebević
Day 5: Travnik
Itinerary: Sarajevo ➜ Travnik ➜ Motel Aba-Šumeće ➜ Plava Voda-Stari Grad-Šarena Džamija ➜ Crkva Svetog Ivana Krstitelja
Day 6 & 7: Zadar
Itinerary: Travnik ➜ Donji Vakuf ➜ Bugojno ➜ Šuica ➜ Tomislavgrad ➜ Grabovica ➜ Kamensko ➜ Bisko ➜ Zadar ➜ Aparments Villa Visnjik Put Gazica ➜ (Hertz ZAD) ➜ Old Town-Sea Gate-St Donatus Church-Foru)-Greeting of the Sun/Sea Organ-Five Wells Square/Land Gate ➜ (Ryanair) ➜ Poznan
Food
3.5 days in London (Piotr)
Day 1: Kensington Gardens-Buckingham Palace
Itinerary: ORD ➜ LHR ➜ (Piccadilly/District) ➜ Paddington Praed St ➜ Lancaster Gate-Kensington Palace-Albert Memorial-Royal Geographical Society-Diana Fountain-Wellington Arch-Buckingham Palace-Speaker’s Corner ➜ Praed St
Day 2: Tower of London-River Thames south bank-Saint Paul’s Cathedral
Itinerary: Praed St ➜ (Circle) ➜ Tower of London-Tower Bridge-along River Thames-Borough Market-Shakespeare’s Globe–Tate Modern-Millennium Bridge-Saint Paul’s Cathedral-Bank of England ➜ (Central/Circle) ➜ Praed St
Day 3: British Museum-River Thames south bank- Westminister
Itinerary: Praed St ➜ (Central) ➜ Brititsh Museum ➜ (Northern) ➜ Borough Market-along River Thames-Westminister Bridge-Westminister-Victoria Tower Gardens-Westminister Abbey-Trafalgar Square-Piccadilly Circus ➜ (Bakerloo) ➜ Praed St
Day 4: Regent’s Park
Itinerary: Praed St ➜ Baker St-Queen Mary’s Gardens-English Gardens ➜ (Bakerloo) ➜ Praed St ➜ (National Express) ➜ LTN ➜ POZ
Two short walks to 5000 masl and our best hikes
Well rested after hiking in Nepal, we are remembering our past hikes as we prepare trail maps for posting.
During our trip to ☞ Ecuador in December 2008 we walked up to Refugio José Félix Ribas (4850 masl) and Cotopaxi (5897 m) glacier at 5000 masl, as far as we could comfortably walk without microspikes. A few years earlier, when traveling in ☞ Bolivia in November 2004 we hiked to well above 5k for the first time, from Mount Chacaltaya Laboratory to the summit of Chacalataya (5421 m).
Cotopaxi
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Chacalataya
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Our best multi-day hikes
☞ Gokyo/Renjo La, Phaplu to Lukla – Nepal, November 2018
152 km, ~12000 m total ascent, 1490 – 5375 masl
☞ Ausangate/Jampa circuit, Tinki to Pacchanta – Peru, June 2015
62 km, ~3400 m total ascent, 3770 – 5550 masl
☞ Mount Kenya, Sirimon to Chogoria – Kenya, September 2017
46 km, ~3000 m total ascent, 2640 – 4985 masl
☞ Teton Crest, Teton Village to Jenny Lake – USA, August 2013
60 km, ~2100 m total ascent ( ~3300 m descent), 1900 – 3267 masl
☞ Smokys from Tremont/West Prong trailhead – June 2018
88 km, ~4000 m total ascent, 415 -1684 masl
☞ Smokys from Round Bottom/Beech Gap trailhead – October 2015
43 km, ~2000 m total ascent, 900 – 1900 masl
Nice day hikes
☞ Kettle Moraine State Forest (3 trails) – USA, September 2018
39 km total
☞ Kettle Moraine State Forest – USA, September 2018
7.5 km kayaking
☞ Smokys from Elkmont – June 2018
10.5 km
☞ Mt Longonot from National Park gate -Kenya, August 2017
11.5 km, ~900 m total ascent, 2140 – 2776 masl
☞ Sintra – Portugal, April 2017
9.5+ km
☞ Pisac – Peru, May 2016
6.5+ km
☞ Torre del Tajo – Spain, June 2015
5 km
☞ Quilotoa rim loop – Ecuador, December 2008
10 km, ~600 m total ascent, 3700 – 3914 masl
We are back from Nepal
We are back in Chicago from 31-day trip to Nepal with short stops in Qatar. We had very good time hiking , slower than anticipated, but made it to all the places as planned (with only minor adjustments): Gokyo and the Lakes along Ngozumpa Glacier, Gokyo Ri, Renjo Pass. Five of the 15 World’s highest mountains were within our sight: Cho Oyu (8188) and Gyachung Kang (7952), Everest (8848) and Lhotse (8516), and Makalu (8485). Our trail was 152 km long with, 13 km total ascent, hiking between 1490 and 5375 masl. As we hiked slowly, high altitude was not a big problem.
We had good weather most of the time, perfect on Renjo La for snapshots with Everest and Lhotse. It was supposed to be mostly sunny and clear in November, but each day clouds rolled in around noon or earlier (one full day was all clear, but one completely cloudy) and afternoons were really cold. But no rain or snow which was great. Overall the weather was actually not as cold as we expected despite cloud cover in the afternoons. Very warm when the Sun was out. We hiked in sub-freezing temps (-6℃) only in the morning on the Renjo La day and temps down to -1℃ to -2℃ on a couple more days with cloud cover. We had only one night with sub-zero temps in our room (down to -1℃). Joanna’s sleeping bag was not very warm, but it worked well with thick lodge blankets – all lodges were well prepared for cold weather in this respect.
We both struggled a bit with Khumbu cough and colds. We treated all cold drinking water with UV/Steripen, but mostly drank tea and other hot beverages provided by the lodges, didn’t eat any meat and avoided uncooked vegies. Had some very minor stomach issues a few times, but not really affecting hiking all that much. We were quite tired when we came back to Kathmandu. Heavy air pollution in Kathmandu valley wore us down quite a bit at the end.
Nepal 2018 itinerary
Oct | 28 | Sun | ORD ➜(Quatar Airways) ➜ | |
29 | Mon | Doha | ➜DOH➜ Doha evening walk [@ Hoiliday Inn] | |
30 | Tue | Kathmandu | DOH ➜(Quatar Airways) ➜KAT➜ Kathmanduprep for trekking [@ Dil’s Homestay] | |
31 | Wed | Kathmandu | Prep for trekking | |
Nov | 1 | Thu | Phaplu | Kathmandu ➜ (jeep) ➜ Phaplu [@ Lodge] |
2 | Fri | Taksindu | Start of trekking [@ Taksindu Resort Lodge] | |
3 | Sat | Jubing | Trekking [@ Gorkhali Lodge] | |
4 | Sun | Khare | Trekking [@ Lodge] | |
5 | Mon | Surke | Trekking [@ Thamserku Lodge] | |
6 | Tue | Monjo | Trekking [@ Mount Kailash Lodge] | |
7 | Wed | Namche | Trekking [@ Khumbu Lodge] | |
8 | Thu | Khumjung | Trekking [@ Hidden Village Lodge] | |
9 | Fri | Khumjung | Khunde (Piotr), rest day (Joanna) [@ Hidden Village Lodge] | |
10 | Sat | Dhole | Trekking [@ Alpine Cottage Lodge] | |
11 | Sun | Machermo | Trekking [@ Sherpa Land Lodge] | |
12 | Mon | Gokyo | Trekking [@ Cho Oyu View Lodge] | |
13 | Tue | Gokyo | Gokyo Lake V [@Thanka Inn] | |
14 | Wed | Gokyo | Gokyo Ri (Joanna), rest day (Piotr) [@Thanka Inn] | |
15 | Thu | Lunden | Trekking Renjo La [@ Renjo Pass Support Lodge ] | |
16 | Fri | Thame | Trekking [@ Valley View Lodge] | |
17 | Sat | Monjo | Trekking [@ Mount Kailash Lodge] | |
18 | Sun | Lukla | End of trekking [@ Lodge] | |
19 | Mon | Lukla | Stuck at LUK [@ Lodge] | |
20 | Tue | Kathmandu | LUK ➜ (small plane) ➜RHP ➜(bus) ➜ Kathmandu [@ Dil’s Homestay] | |
21 | Wed | Kathmandu | Thamel ➜ Durbar Square [@ Hotel Giarmondo] | |
22 | Thu | Kathmandu | Thamel ➜ (taxi) ➜ Bouddha ➜ Pashupatinath ➜ (taxi) ➜ Thamel | |
23 | Fri | Kathmandu | Thamel ➜ (taxi) ➜ Ratna Park ➜ (bus) ➜ Bhaktapur ➜ (taxi) ➜ Thamel | |
24 | Sat | Kathmandu | Thamel ➜(taxi) ➜ Swayambhunath ➜ Asan Tole ➜ Thamel | |
25 | Sun | Kathmandu | Kathmandu ➜ (bus) ➜ Patan ➜ (taxi) ➜ Thamel | |
26 | Mon | Doha | KAT ➜ (Quatar Airways) ➜ DOH ➜ Doha[@ Al Liwan Suites]➜ DOH ➜ | |
27 | Tue | Chicago | ➜ ORD |
Phaplu-Gokyo-Lukla
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Key waypoint distances and elevations on our Gokyo trek
km | masl | latitude | longitude | ||||
November | 1 | Thursday | Kathmandu | 1292 | 27°43’05″N | 85°18’28″E | |
Phaplu | 0.0 | 2479 | 27°30’55.79″N | 86°35’4.27″E | |||
2 | Friday | Ringmo | 11.8 | 2736 | 27°35’15.18″N | 86°36’14.86″E | |
Taksindu La | 13.5 | 3066 | 27°35’31.96″N | 86°37’2.70″E | |||
Taksindu | 14.3 | 2931 | 27°35’35.30″N | 86°37’18.33″E | |||
3 | Saturday | Nunthala | 18.2 | 2198 | 27°35’20.47″N | 86°38’49.18″E | |
Dhudh Koshi (river) | 22.3 | 1490 | 27°35’38.12″N | 86°40’42.52″E | |||
Jubing | 23.3 | 1651 | 27°35’53.00″N | 86°41’11.00″E | |||
4 | Sunday | Kharikhola Monastery | 25.5 | 2050 | 27°36’13.68″N | 86°42’1.25″E | |
Bupsa | 29.0 | 2348 | 27°36’51.05″N | 86°42’53.99″E | |||
Khare | 30.8 | 2590 | 27°37’29.98″N | 86°43’4.48″E | |||
5 | Monday | Paiya | 35.3 | 2760 | 27°38’29.44″N | 86°43’50.94″E | |
Surke | 41.0 | 2300 | 27°40’20.55″N | 86°43’7.54″E | |||
6 | Tuesday | Ghat | 48.4 | 2580 | 27°43’27.33″N | 86°42’53.48″E | |
Phakding | 50.4 | 2620 | 27°44’24.90″N | 86°42’45.44″E | |||
Monjo | 55.6 | 2870 | 27°46’25.34″N | 86°43’20.74″E | |||
7 | Wednesday | Namche | 60.2 | 3423 | 27°48’15.85″N | 86°42’37.34″E | |
Park Headquarters | 60.8 | 3560 | 27°48’11.13″N | 86°42’54.29″E | |||
Namche | 61.5 | 3423 | 27°48’15.85″N | 86°42’37.34″E | |||
8 | Thursday | Khumjung | 64.4 | 3763 | 27°49’18.20″N | 86°43’0.44″E | |
Khumjung Gompa | 65.0 | 3797 | 27°49’30.04″N | 86°42’58.95″E | |||
Khumjung | 65.5 | 3763 | 27°49’18.20″N | 86°43’0.44″E | |||
9 | Friday | Hilary Hospital | 66.9 | 3864 | 27°49’25.12″N | 86°42’17.02″E | |
Khunde Stupa | 67.4 | 3822 | 27°49’16.35″N | 86°42’25.25″E | |||
Khumjung | 68.8 | 3763 | 27°49’18.20″N | 86°43’0.44″E | |||
Khumjung Viewpoint | 69.0 | 3826 | 27°49’16.61″N | 86°43’5.00″E | |||
Khumjung | 69.1 | 3763 | 27°49’18.20″N | 86°43’0.44″E | |||
10 | Saturday | Mong La | 72.6 | 3970 | 27°50’21.91″N | 86°44’9.38″E | |
Phortse Thanga | 74.4 | 3660 | 27°51’1.39″N | 86°44’35.86″E | |||
Dole | 77.0 | 4032 | 27°52’1.52″N | 86°43’52.37″E | |||
11 | Sunday | Machermo | 82.3 | 4390 | 27°54’12.34″N | 86°42’58.08″E | |
12 | Monday | Gokyo | 89.2 | 4754 | 27°57’13.70″N | 86°41’36.35″E | |
13 | Tuesday | Scoundrel’s Point | 95.0 | 4990 | 28° 0’5.99″N | 86°41’10.33″E | |
Gokyo Lake V | 95.4 | 4965 | 28° 0’6.86″N | 86°41’0.03″E | |||
Gokyo | 101.1 | 4754 | 27°57’12.25″N | 86°41’37.54″E | |||
14 | Wednesday | Gokyo RI | 103.0 | 5350 | 27°57’40.99″N | 86°40’59.03″E | |
Gokyo | 104.8 | 4754 | 27°57’12.25″N | 86°41’37.54″E | |||
15 | Thursday | Renjo La | 109.2 | 5375 | 27°56’50.71″N | 86°39’30.21″E | |
Lunden | 116.0 | 4350 | 27°54’19.01″N | 86°38’12.92″E | |||
16 | Friday | Thame | 125.5 | 3800 | 27°49’52.02″N | 86°38’56.82″E | |
17 | Saturday | Namche | 134.2 | 3423 | 27°48’15.85″N | 86°42’37.34″E | |
Monjo | 138.9 | 2870 | 27°46’25.34″N | 86°43’20.74″E | |||
18 | Sunday | Lukla | 151.9 | 2847 | 27°41’14.29″N | 86°43’55.10″E | |
19 | Monday | Lukla | |||||
20 | Tuesday | Kathmandu |
Piotr’s packing list: total 15.7 kg
TOTAL | 15.7 | kg | |
clothing | 7.3 | ||
equipment etc | 4.6 | ||
shared equipment/supplies | 3.3 | ||
water | 0.5 | ||
ON ME | 3.9 | kg | |
boots | 1347 | g | Vasque Breeze 2.0 Mid GTX |
wool socks | 73 | Smart Wool | |
underwear | 62 | Exofficio | |
pants | 320 | Columbia Silver Ridge Convertible | |
belt/suspenders | 110 | – | |
tshirt | 165 | – | |
buff | 38 | Buff | |
hiking cap | 58 | Outdoor Research | |
hiking gloves | 73 | Ergodyne ProFlex 812 | |
trekking poles | 476 | Komperdell | |
pocket knife | 90 | Gerber Torch | |
sunglasses | 34 | – | |
camera/battery | 488 | Olympus E-PM2 14-42 mm | |
scope | 190 | Alpen 8×25 monocular | |
phone | 215 | iPhone XS | |
watch | 38 | Timex Expedition | |
passport/money | 115 | – | |
ON MY BACK | 11.8 | kg | |
backpack/liner/cover | 1208 | g | Granite Gear Crown 60 (long 65 L) |
sleeping bag/sack | 1397 | Sierra Design Ridge Runner (Down 600 15 F/-9 C) | |
liner | 253 | Sea to Summit Thermolite | |
downjacket/bag | 907 | Mountain Hardware hooded 650 down | |
jacket | 504 | Columbia | |
rainpants | 175 | Mountain Warehouse Pakka | |
daypack/organizer | 69 | Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil | |
pants | 340 | Columbia Silver Ridge Convertible | |
fleece | 286 | North Face | |
3 x wool socks | 321 | Smart Wool, Darn Togh | |
3 x underwear | 216 | Exofficio, Calvin Klein | |
2 x tshirt | 315 | – | |
3 x top | 594 | Terramar | |
2 x bottom | 356 | Terramar | |
2 x gloves | 180 | Fleece, insulated | |
2 x wool beanie | 150 | – | |
light shoes | 554 | Nike Quest running | |
slippers | 76 | Holliday Inn Doha | |
light/batteries | 281 | Nitecore HC65/NL1829LTP 2900mAh | |
chargers/batteries | 399 | – | |
repair kit | 50 | Homemade | |
temp beacon | 14 | Blue Maestro Tempo Disc | |
spare glasses | 31 | – | |
4 x mesh shopping bags | 46 | Shopping Mall Nairobi | |
2 x emergency blanket | 96 | – | |
guide/map | 198 | – | |
money | 100 | – | |
towel | 71 | – | |
steriPEN Ultra | 134 | Katadyn | |
thermos | 376 | GSI MicroLite 1000 | |
water bottle | 88 | Nalge 1000 | |
cup & spoon | 62 | – | |
soap & meds | 1245 | – | |
lyophylised fruit/chocolate | 215 | – | |
water | 0.5 | kg | – |
Diagram of hiking temperature ℃ on Renjo La day
Food menus
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Nepal video clips
Highlights