Australia, day 15 & 16: Melbourne

Day 15

We arrived at MEL at 6:40 and an hour later we had our next rental, Mitsubishi ASX compact SUV from Enterprise, ready to go. Our destination in the city was Fitzroy (via Bell St to avoid tolls) where we stayed with friends for couple of days. We had breakfast and coffee in local cafe, and discussed what to do. We were not prepared for the visit too well, but our hosts had a good plan and instructions for us, plus good info on architecture etc. We just did what they recommended. Couple of hours later we were in St Patrick’s Cathedral, and walked around the city for the rest of the day: first to Ian Potter Centre Federation Square, then across Princes Bridge and along Yarra River to Royal Botanic Garden of Victoria  ☞ rbg Melbourne   (recommended). On the way back we walked by Shrine of Remembrance, visited National Gallery of Victoria,  walked by Federation Square again, St Paul’s Cathedral, along Collins St, then to St Patrick’s  Cathedral, Brunswick St and George St.

Visit to  ☞ National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) at Ian Potter Centre gave us second major experience with indigenous art, after introduction in Sydney: novel and important for us. Australian art and International art galleries were interesting too, but felt familiar. We later spent couple of hours  in NGV at St Kilda Rd, including special exhibit “Terracotta Warriors & Cai Guo-Qiang”, perhaps pointing to our future travel destination.  We had to spend some time wandering around Botanic Gardens, of course.

Day 16

We reached Victoria Market (recommended), our first destination of the day, by tram 11 from Brunswick St to Elizabeth St (conveniently for us re-routed via La Trobe St). We did grocery shopping for the next leg of our trip and we had lunch at food court: marinated seafood from Wood’s deli and laksa from Canton Malay Cuisine, and bread from local bakery. Sounds like fast-food, but it was all very good. Topped-off with Kenyan coffee at Market Lane Coffee and cannoli. We tried three or four different tropical fruits from the market as well, so much flavor.  Piotr was day-dreaming about taking all the seafood to cook at home in Chicago. We spent two hours at the market. After a short walk, we were reading travel books about Melbourne/Australia at ☞ State Library of Victoria, not much time to do it. Some of the many visitors were reading books as well. We walked through ☞ “World of the book” exhibition, not big but interesting. Tram 16 took us to next destination: St Kilda. It was partially sunny, but very windy and quite cold day. We spent the rest of the afternoon there zigzagging between Fitzroy St, St Kilda Pier and Beach, Ackland St. We were hoping to see penguins, but none returned from fishing before we left.  We then picked-up a couple of reds at Ackland Cellars, jumped on tram  96, at the end stop on Ackland St, to Nicholson St. We  walked home a few blocks via Johnstone St.

Australia, day 13 & 14: Litchfield to Darwin

Day 13

The first half of the day was just driving from Jabiru to Batchelor. We stopped at Adelaide River and visited briefly Jumping Crocodile Cruises site (not for us), and then at Window on the Wetlands Visitor Centre for panoramic view of the backcountry and at Humpty Doo to re-supply. We arrived at  ☞ Batchelor Holiday Park  around 1 pm. And almost immediately took off to visit  Buley Rockhole (quite crowded), swimming on the way at two spots in Florence Creek, and then walked back to Florence Falls via Shady Creek for another swim (very nice and big pool with waterfall). We had enough time to visit Magnetic Termite Mounds and return to our campground for evening bird feeding/watching, just after 6 pm. We were late, but so were the birds hiding for a while from hawk (?) patrolling the sky. We prepared dinner in our cabin.

Bird feeding at Batchelor Holiday Park

Day 14

We started the day with another  half an hour of bird feeding/watching at 7:30  am. We  then followed with four short hikes: Greenant Creek to Tajateaba Falls, Wangi Falls with swimming (huge pool with 2 waterfalls, great fun but we liked Florence Falls more) and walk to the top of the falls,  Walker Creek with swimming and very impressive Tolmer Falls and Nature Trail (recommended) – the nicest walk in the area. Temp reached 40℃ for the last time on our Australian trip, but at this point we were swimming/soaking in small pool in Walker Creek. Shortly after 4 pm, we were on the way to Darwin. Our Jetstar flight to Melbourne was at 1 am next morning. That gave us enough time to watch beautiful sunset at Mindil Beach, walk through Mindil Sunset Markets, eat some street food (seafood and fruits) there and top off with Crumbed Crocodile at La Beach Fish and Chips in Cullen. Watched Cullen Bay and Marina after dark for a while.

We dropped off our car “after hours” at the airport parking lot. We drove 1066 km on this leg of our journey.

 

Australia, day 12 & 13: Kakadu

Day 12

The plan for the day was to visit Ubirr but rangers at Bowali Center (stopped there on the way to Jabiru the day before) were not sure if the road would be open. We saw smoke in this area previous afternoon.  It turned out the park closed the road at 10.30 am. We decided to join Burrungkuy (Nurlangie) ranger walk & talk (recommended) at 9-11 am, and try our luck with Ubirr the following day. We started the day on short hike to Nawurlandja Lookout and quick look at Anbangbang Billabong on our own. The ranger walk was very good, disciplined and informative. We liked rock art accompanied by interesting stories about Aboriginal history and life. Barrk Bushwalk was closed (seasonal). We drove to different parking lot and were back on Anbangbang Billabong loop with panoramic views from Nawurlandja Lookout to Burrungkuy Rock.

Anbangbang Billabong

Temp crossed 40℃ mark at noon. Another short drive and we were on Bubba walk. We had to turn back half-way around the wetland when trail (not well marked at this point) hit a patch of just burnt down bush (still smoldering in a couple of places). Passable, but not fun to walk in such heat. We stopped for photo op at Djarradjin Billabong. Water level was low in billabongs but bird-watching was great.  We then looked for a “mountain” to “climb” and ended up on a short walk to Mirrai Lookout. Woodland savanna to the horizon. It was only then, around 5 pm, that temp dropped to 36-37℃. Tough going in full-sun and high temp started to wear us down. We cooked dinner at our lodge and Joanna went for a swim in the pool.

AC in our car brought some needed relief even if we only used it for short time driving between local destinations. We had AC in our room too, but outside temps at night were quite comfortable mid-twenties.

Day 13

On good tip from our lodge staff we decided to go to Cahills Crossing (recommended) to watch crocodiles. No Ubirr – at some point we actually went to check the gate, but no luck. We needed alternative program. We arrived at the Crossing shortly after 9 am when tide was low and water was flowing downstream.We saw first crocodiles along river banks as we checked-out downstream boat ramp and the crossing, stopped at Border Store for info. On another good tip from the staff, we decided to go on 11 am Guluyambi Cruise with ☞ Kakadu Cultural Tours, 4 km from upstream boat ramp up East Alligator River. It was nice and relaxing, many crocodiles were floating just a few meters from the boat.Local guide was good, sometimes hard to hear at high motor revs but we had best seats in front row. We made short landing to walk around a bit, water hole and high rocky river bank.

Cahills Crossing

Cahills Crossing

East Alligator River

East Alligator River

We came back at 12:45 pm and immediately started Bardedjilidji Walk (recommended). We considered two other walks, but both were closed: Manngarre (bush fire) and Sandstone River Walk (seasonal). We liked Bardedjilidji, some views on the river and the rest on/around interesting rock formation with some rock art. Fun place to explore and perhaps have lunch-break, but not when we were there: mid-day with 42-43℃ hiking temps in full-sun.

Bardedjilidji Walk (3 km) Bardedjilidji Walk from Bardedjilidji parking lot, 3 km loop
Click on wikiloc logo for more info

 We returned to Cahills Crossing at 2:30 pm when the tidal wave was nearing its high – best time to watch crocodiles fishing when sea water pours in. Timing is important (☞ Tidal predictions for Cahills Crossing). Piotr counted more than 30 crocodiles at one time!

East Alligator River upsteram of Cahills Crossing

We ate late lunch at Border Store (prawns with yellow curry and tom kha chicken soup), stopped one more time at the crossing – at 4:30 pm the tide reversed, crocodiles were fed and quietly fading away. Altogether we spent three hours watching them. After returning to Jabiru, we walked short loop to Jabiru Lake just to see what the small town is about.

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