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The weather was really good and it was an easy decision to hike Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg (recommended). We drove past Fort William to Inverlochy and took a side road going around aluminum smelter, but the road was gated and we were not sure how serious the sign about the gate being closed was. We knew we were coming back late and did not want to take any risk of being stuck there after hours. To save time we decided not to explore alternatives to get to parking spot higher up along the trail. We decided to do what hikers do best:  walk, adding couple km for the day. We were at the North Face trailhead parking  lot in Torlundy around 9 am. The parking lot was actually full, with some people camping around it. Surprisingly we saw only few people on the trail. Avoiding possible crowds on the main trail (Mountain Path) was part of the decision to hike this route. Of course it is also much more interesting and scenic. The trail starts very easy and gains altitude steadily all the way to Carn Mor Dearg (1220 m). The views opened in all directions. We descended a bit before crossing Carn Mor Dearg Arete and final ascent to Ben Nevis (1345 m). The last stretch was more difficult with no obvious trail and many large boulders to go around. Navigation was not difficult, with marker posts on top well visible.  GPS was showing we were near the trail, but the trail itself often was not obvious. Parts of the last segment  (1 km, 300 m ascent) were quite steep. The summit is flat. Most hikers were already gone, but a few, like us, were still coming up. We met Polish hikers. We just stumbled around looking in all directions.

Ben Nevis summit

Rather than returning the same way, we decided to take different route down:  Mountain Path to Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe and around the massif to Allt a’Mhullim, shortcut across the valley and back to North Face car park. The descent was easy, quiet and at the end with no people in sight. We took advantage of long day to hike 20 km/1500 m total ascent loop at comfortable pace. We returned to Signal Rock after 11 pm, quite tired.

Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg

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The weather improved and we could see Ben More well, but it was to late to hike it because it was time to move on to Glencoe. We stayed most of the day on smaller, quiet roads with two ferry crossings: from Fishnish to Lochaline and from Ardgour to Corran. We visited Duart Castle on the way. Section of A82 to Ballachulish Bridge was quite busy. We stopped in Ballachulish for info and lunch at Visitor Centre, and to buy groceries at Co-Op. ☞ Signal Rock Cottage was our next base, self-catering again. We arrived early enough for a few loops on Signal Rock trails before dinner.

Signal Rock

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Our primary hikes planned on Mull were coastal trail to Carsaig Arches and Ben Mor. On day 4, weather was so and so (clouds, some passing rain) and we decided to go to Carsaig Arches (recommended). We were lucky to arrive early enough to find parking on tiny lot at the trailhead. The rest was just rumbling along the coast, up and down piles of rocks. We really enjoyed walking on volcanic rocks and dark gray beaches exposed by low tide. It was nice hike, we spent pretty much all day there.

Carsaig Arches

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Carsaig Arches

The following day we made a desperate attempt to hike Ben More, we drove to the trailhead: with heavy fog and occasional rain we decide it was not worth it. We drove around Mull to Tobermory instead (via Salem and Dervaig on the way back). Slow driving on narrow local roads was actually very pleasant experience. Many road segments were scenic even in not so good weather. The scenery had some feel of remoteness, perhaps because we met only few cars and people. We stopped several times to look for sea otters, but no luck. We came back to Ardtun in the evening, but by that point we knew it was not going to get really dark.

Boat to Staffa (Staffa Trips) was full and we were glad we bought tickets the day before. We parked our car in Fionnphort village and walked over to the dock. The sea was calm. On approach and then walking around, Staffa is dominated visually by high vertical basalt columns with grassy fields on top. We first walked to Fingal’s Cave entrance and then back and up the cliffs (SW coast) to watch puffins. We saw many. On the way back, tour boat dropped us off at Baile Mor on Iona. We had the rest of the day to explore the island. We walked through Nunnery and visited the Abbey. With limited time, we decided to walk straight  up Dun I and then continue down the hill to the beaches along the NW coast (recommended). An easy hike and with great sunny weather relaxing walking on the beaches. Very few tourists on Dun I and no people further on. We started walking South along the coast, no obvious hiking trail, just pieces and bits of local trails to follow. With little time to spare, our competitive tempers flared up and we split for the final run across the rugged terrain to catch last ferry. The incentive was clear: there is no way to cross to Fionnphort after the last ferry departs. We were back at our base in Ardtun for late dinner.

North Iona

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Our second day was interesting cross-section of Scottish countryside and history. We started with short visit to Inveraray Castle, walked around castle grounds with perfectly maintained gardens, old trees and meadows. After short coffee break and brief visit to check out  old castle kitchens,  we walked-up to Dun Na Cuaiche watchtower for great views of Inveraray and Loch Fyne. First short walk to stretch legs before anticipated longer hikes.

Dun Na Cuaiche watchtower

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Slow stroll  around Inveraray gave us first feel of small Scottish town. We then made two stops on the way to Oban: short one at Rest and Be Thankful Commemorative Stone and longer one in Kilmartin.  Travel in time to 19th Century and back to the Bronze/Stone Age. We visited Nether Largie standing stones and Temple Wood stone circles, and spent some time in small but interesting Museum of Ancient Culture, interesting place and opportunity for a brake from driving (recommended).  We picked-up groceries and supplies at Tesco in Oban, and after short  wait we were on Oban-Craignure Ferry. We took it slow to adjust to single-track roads driving to Bunessan and Ardtun to set our base in self- catering  Garden Caravan. Quite different marine scenery on the way to Isle of Mull and then rolling hills and lochs on the island. With the Sun way up, we did not realize for a while how late it really was.