USA – the wandering spot

June 14-19

The plan was to cover the first 1000 miles in four days. With anticipated slow start out of Chicago and a day or so to check out Voyageurs NP. Driving was slow as Piotr needed frequent rest stops (after intense and tiring events just before the trip). One rest stop was at three-way continental divide (Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico and Hudson Bay) near Anchor Lake MN. First two campgrounds, Harstad on Eau Claire River WI and Woodenfrog on Kabetogama Lake MN, were nice and relaxing. We managed only short evening walks in both places.

The following day we stopped at Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center (Voyageurs NP) just to look at the lake and later at Ash River Visitor Center. Here we spent more time walking on Blind Ash Bay and Sullivan Bay Trails, both short. Stopped at Kabetogama Lake and Beaver Pond Overlooks. At this point we realized how hard it is to see anything of the Voyageurs”waterpark” from shore. Quick decision to stay extra night in hotel (RiverFront) in International Falls MN and take morning National Park boat trip on Rainy Lake, with short stop/walk on Little American Island for a history lesson about gold mining. The 3-hour trip was about observing the lake, its islands and shore. With good interpretative talk by our guides. Water everywhere around.

We crossed Canadian border (International Falls MN/Fort Frances ON) in the afternoon. As we were driving on scenic Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 71), we could hear screeching noise coming from the breaks getting louder and more frequent. By the time we arrived at Rushing River Provincial Park ON campground it was clear we needed car mechanic. Now it was all about fixing our car. Next morning we drove slowly to Canadian Tire in Kenora ON and spent most of two days in town waiting. Walked from Travelodge motel to stores and spent some time relaxing in Anicinabe Park. Luckily they were able to bring all the parts next day and get the car ready just before closing. Really great service.

We packed resupplies and started driving west on Trans Canada Hwy (Hwy 1), but made it only short distance past Ontario-Manitoba border. After driving for a while on side/dirt roads we found a decent site on sandy flats, first wild camp of the trip, only to be swarmed by mosquitoes (in retrospect, the worst case of the entire trip including Alaska). We ate something in the car and spent some time hunting insects until all inside were incapacitated.

Thousands tried to get inside the car at our first wild camp

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on the overview map below) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Our road trip interactive map

Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

The interactive map (above) and itinerary table (below) are work-in-progress – coming soon destination-specific reports/posts will add more details and photos.

Completed itinerary

Day				Destinations		Overnight
1	Jun	14	Fri	Harstad Park, Eau Claire River	IL-WI	Harstad CG
2		15	Sat	Voyageurs NP	MN	Woodenfrog CG
3		16	Sun	Voyageurs NP	MN	RiverFront Hotel, International Falls
4		17	Mon	Voyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PP	ON	Rushing River CG
5		18	Tue	Kenora, Anicinabe Park	ON	Kenora Traveloge
6		19	Wed	Trans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PP	MB	Trans Canada Hwy wild camping
7		20	Thu	Echo Valley PP	SK	Echo Valley CG
8		21	Fri	Echo Valley PP, Trans Canada Hwy	SK-AB	Tel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
9		22	Sat	Dinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PP	AB	Little Fish CG
10		23	Sun	Midland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell Museum	AB	Two Jack Main CG
11		24	Mon	Banff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, Banff	AB	Banff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
12		25	Tue	Banff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink Pots	AB	Lake Louise (hardsided) CG
13		26	Wed	Banff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little Beehive	AB	Lake Louise (softsided) CG
14		27	Thu	Yoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields Pkwy	BC-AB	Waterfowl Lakes CG
15		28	Fri	Icefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls	AB	Waterfowl Lakes CG
16		29	Sat	Banff NP: Chephren & Cirque Lakes	AB	Waterfowl Lakes CG
17		30	Sun	Banff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya River	AB	Waterfowl Lakes CG
18	Jul	1	Mon	Icefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan Glacier	AB	Wilcox CG
19		2	Tue	Icefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca Glacier	AB	Wilcox CG
20		3	Wed	Icefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & Falls	AB	Jasper Becker’s Chalets
21		4	Thu	Jasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose Lakes	AB	Jasper Becker’s Chalets
22		5	Fri	Jasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander Falls	AB-BC	Robson Meadows CG
23		6	Sat	Mt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand Falls	BC	Robson Meadows CG
24		7	Sun	Yellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PP	BC	Yellowhead Hwy wild camping
25		8	Mon	Yellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, Kitwanga	BC	Kitwanga Municipal CG
26		9	Tue	Cassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon Glacier	BC	Granduc Rd wild camping
27		10	Wed	Stewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear Glacier	AK-BC	Dease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
28		11	Thu	Cassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska Hwy	BC-YT	Alaska Hwy wild camping 1
29		12	Fri	Alaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, Whitehorse	YT	Caribou RV PK
30		13	Sat	Whitehorse: Yukon River, Miles Canyon	YT	Kaleido Lodge Whitehorse
31		14	Sun	Klondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose Creek	YT	Moose Creek CG
32		15	Mon	Klondike Hwy, Dawson City, Diamond Tooth Gerties	YT	Dawson City private room
33		16	Tue	Dawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon Rivers	YT	Dawson City private room
34		17	Wed	Yukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro Dredge	YT-AK	Taylor Hwy wild camping
35		18	Thu	Alaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson Hwy	AK	Chatanika Lodge
36		19	Fri	Fairbanks, Chatanika	AK	Chatanika Lodge
37		20	Sat	Fairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana River	AK	Chatanika Lodge
38		21	Sun	Chena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot Springs	AK	Granite Tors CG
39		22	Mon	Parks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NP	AK	Riley Creek CG
40		23	Tue	Denali NP: Savage Alpine Trail	AK	Riley Creek CG
41		24	Wed	Denali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral Mountain	AK	Riley Creek CG
42		25	Thu	Denali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana River	AK	Riley Creek CG
43		26	Fri	Parks Hwy, Talkeetna	AK	Talkeetna Cabin
44		27	Sat	Talkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence Mine	AK	Eklutna Lake CG
45		28	Sun	Chugach SP, Eklutna Lake	AK	Eklutna Lake CG
46		29	Mon	Eklutna, Anchorage, Ship Creek	AK	Anchorage Airbnb
47		30	Tue	Seward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt Alyeska	AK	Granite Creek CG
48		31	Wed	Chugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai Lake	AK	Primrose CG
49	Aug	1	Thu	Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding Icefield	AK	Resurection River wild camping
50		2	Fri	Resurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Seward	AK	Nauti Otter Inn Seward
51		3	Sat	Kenai Fjords NP: Northwestern Glacier	AK	Trail River CG
52		4	Sun	Ptarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai Lake	AK	Kenai Lake wild camping
53		5	Mon	Kenai River (Russion River Ferry)	AK	Cooper Creek CG
54		6	Tue	Russian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward Hwy	AK	Williwaw CG
55		7	Wed	Portage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, Anchorage	AK	Anchorage Airbnb
56		8	Thu	Glenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina Glacier	AK	Lake Louise Rd wild camping
57		9	Fri	Richardson Hwy: Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson Pass	AK	Sheep Creek wild camping
58		10	Sat	Richardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia Glacier, Richardson Hwy	AK	Valdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
59		11	Sun	Valdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old Valdez	AK	Gilpatricks Hotel Chitina
60		12	Mon	Chitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien Creek	AK	Gilpatricks Hotel Chitina
61		13	Tue	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: McCarthy Rd, Kennecott	AK	McCarthy CG
62		14	Wed	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier	AK	Root Glacier moraine backpacking
63		15	Thu	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier	AK	Root Glacier moraine backpacking
64		16	Fri	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie Mine	AK	Root Glacier moraine backpacking
65		17	Sat	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina Trestle	AK	Gilahina Trestle wild camping
66		18	Sun	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy Rd	AK	Snowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
67		19	Mon	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou Creek	AK	Kendesnii CG
68		20	Tue	Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum Volcano	AK	Kendesnii CG
69		21	Wed	Nabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska Hwy	AK	Deadman Lake CG
70		22	Thu	Alaska Hwy	AK-YT	Haines Junction Airbnb
71		23	Fri	Kluane NP: King’s Throne	YT	Kathleen Lake CG
72		24	Sat	Kluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias Lake	YT	Kathleen Lake CG
73		25	Sun	Alaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish Lakes	YT	Conrad CG
74		26	Mon	Klondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, Skagway	YT-AK	Westmark Skagway Hotel
75		27	Tue	Skagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania Point	AK	Westmark Skagway Hotel
76		28	Wed	Klondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska Hwy	YT	Alaska Hwy wild camping 2
77		29	Thu	Alaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot Springs	YT-BC	Toad River Community CG
78		30	Fri	Toad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit Lake	BC	Andy Bailey CG
79		31	Sat	Alaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PP	BC	Heart Lake CG
80	Sep	1	Sun	John Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince George	BC	Prince George Airbnb
81		2	Mon	Cariboo Hwy, Green Lake	BC	Green Lake Arrowhead CG
82		3	Tue	Cariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser River	BC	Nairn Falls CG
83		4	Wed	Whistler: Blackcomb & Peak 2, Whistler Mt, Half Note Trail	BC	Whistler RV PK
84		5	Thu	Sea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Langdale Ferry	BC	Porpoise Bay CG
85		6	Fri	Sunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Eagle Falls, Comox Ferry, Vancouver Island	BC	Seal Bay RV PK
86		7	Sat	Vancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay Park	BC	Seal Bay RV PK
87		8	Sun	Strachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle Lake	BC	Ralph River CG
88		9	Mon	Comox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin Falls	BC	Comox Airbnb
89		10	Tue	Strachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau Lakes	BC	Comox Airbnb
90		11	Wed	Catherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific Trail	BC	Surf Junction CG
91		12	Thu	Pacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia Bay	BC	Surf Junction CG
92		13	Fri	Pacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver Ferry	BC	Surrey Airbnb
93		14	Sat	Surrey, Hwy I-5 & 20	BC-WA	Newhalem Creek CG
94		15	Sun	North Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge dam	WA	Newhalem Creek CG
95		16	Mon	North Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby Arm	WA	Newhalem Creek CG
96		17	Tue	Okanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington Pass	WA	Klipchuck CG
97		18	Wed	Driving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee Dam	WA-ID	Coeur d’Alene LaQuinta
98		19	Thu	Driving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald Pass	ID-MT	Helena Baymont Hotel
99		20	Fri	Driving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, Medora	MT-ND	Sully Creek SP CG
100		21	Sat	T. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal Vein	ND	Cottonwood CG
101		22	Sun	T. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & North	ND	Cottonwood CG
102		23	Mon	T. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to Fargo	ND	Fargo Expressway Suites
103		24	Tue	Driving: I-94, I-90	MN-WI-IL	Chicago