Chile, day 9 &1 0: Quebrada (Garganta) del Diablo and Santiago

Vary nice vacation added to business trip to Santiage de Chile: Pacific coast and cities, Atacama Desert, high  Andes and volcanoes. We came very close to the corner of Bolivia (Laguna Colorada/Salar de Uyuni) visited in 2004.
 

Itinerary

July 9, Sunday
Chicago ➜ ORD (departure day before) ➜ (United ) ➜ IAH ➜ SCL ➜ (Turbus➜ Terminal de Buses Alameda ➜ Universidad de Santiago (Metro) ➜ Universidad de Chile station ➜ Calle Lodres ➜ Iglesia Luterana de la Santa Cruz (Alemana) ➜ La Alameda ➜ Plaza de Armas ➜ Catedral Metropolitana Santiago ➜ Plaza Londres ➜ La Alameda ➜ Centro Gabriela Mistral ➜ Barrio Bellavista ➜ La Chascona ➜ Parque Metropolitano de Santiago/Cerro San Cristobal ➜ Plaza de Armas ➜ [@ Calle Lodres 36]

July 10, Monday
Calle Lodres ➜ (Metro) ➜Terminal de Buses Alameda ➜ (Turbus) ➜ Valparaiso Terminal Rodiovario/ Pedro Montt ➜Plaza O’Higgins ➜ Parque Italia ➜ Plaza de la Victoria ➜ Plaza Civica ➜ Iglesia Santa Cruz ➜ Cerro Alegre ➜ Cerro Concepcion ➜ Passeo Yugoslavo/Palacio Baburizza ➜ Mirador Paseo Gervsoni/Casa Museo Mirador Lukas ➜ Iglesia Santa Cruz ➜ Plaza Sotomayor ➜ Muelle Prat ➜ Ascensor Artilleria/Cerro Altilleria ➜ Paseo 21 de majo ➜ Plaza Sotomayor ➜ Bellavista ➜ Terminal Rodiovario ➜ (Turbus) ➜ Santiago ➜ Calle Lodres

July 11, Tuesday
Calle Lodres ➜ Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile ➜ Lastarria ➜ La Alameda ➜ Cerro Santa Lucia ➜Universidad ➜ Augustinas ➜ Calle Lodres

July 12, Wednesday
Calle Lodres ➜ (Transvip taxi) ➜ Aeropuerto ➜ (LATAM) ➜ Calama ➜ (Transvip) ➜ San Pedr ➜ Lascar ➜ Tour agencies Caracoles St ➜ Piedra del Coyote ➜ Valle de la Muerte (Marte) ➜ Valle de la Luna ➜ Duna Major ➜ [@ Calle Lascar 667]

July 13, Thursday
Calle Lascar ➜ Valle Arcoiris ➜ Yerbas Buenas Petroglyphs ➜ San Pedro ➜ Iglesia San Pedro ➜ Plaza de Armas ➜Caracoles ➜ Calle Lascar

July 14, Friday
Calle Lascar ➜ Laguna Miscanti ➜ Piedras Rojas ➜ Laguna Chaxa ➜ San Pedro ➜ Calle Lascar

July 15, Saturday
Calle Lascar ➜ Geyser El Tatio ➜ Putana wetlands ➜ Machuca ➜ San Pedro ➜ Pukara de Quitor ➜ San Pedro ➜Calle Lascar

July 16, Sunday
Calle Lascar ➜ Monjes de la Pacana ➜ Salar de Tara ➜ Monjes de la Pacana ➜ San Pedro ➜ Calle Lascar

July 17, Monday
Calle Lascar ➜ Quebrada del Diablo ➜ Lascar St ➜ (Transvip) ➜ transfer Calama ➜ (LATAM) ➜ to Santiago ➜ (Transvip) ➜ [@ Calle Lodres 36]

July 18, Tuesday
Calle Lodres ➜ La Moneda ➜Palacio de la Moneda ➜ Centro Cultural La Moneda ➜ Plaza de Armas ➜ Mercado Central ➜ Mapocho River/Parque Forestal ➜ Barrio Bellavista ➜Jose Victorino Lastarria ➜ Calle Lodres ➜ (metro and bus) ➜SC ➜ (United) ➜ ORD (via IAH arrival the next day) ➜  Chicago.


On the last morning in San Pedro, we rented bikes and rode to Quebrada del Diablo (Garganta del Diablo, Devil’s gorge or throat), easy and flat. Another friendly dog accompanied us the whole trip. It was a great day, exploring on our own only second time while visiting  Atacama, a great feeling after all the tours. Just few bikers on the road/trail. First we were riding along San Pedro river (crossing icy water twice each way) and than in a narrow canyon, exploring some side canyons as well. Winter weather was perfect:  sunnny and 20℃.

Biking to Quebrada del Diablo

Map combines 2 partially overlapping trails: to Pukara de Quitor and to Quebrada del Diablo.
Click on wikiloc logo to see more details

After lunch we went to Calama airport with Transvip again, on time and efficient, and returned to Santiago late at night. It was almost midnight so we took Transvip transfer to our AirBnB – cheaper than taxi, but equally fast and well organized.

On our last day in Chile we went to Palacio de la Moneda and Centro Cultural La Moneda where we visited Andy Warhol exhibition (Andy Warhol, Icono del Arte Pop). Then we met with Aldo again at Plaza de Armas. We had great seafood lunch in Mercado Central, walked along Mapocho river across Parque Forestal, and tried again to go to Cerro St. Cristobal, but waiting line for funicular was as long as on Sunday afternoon, so we just had ice cream and coffee, and later tried some aged pisco. This time snow-covered Andes were well visible from Santiago. We took metro and bus to the airport for our late flight back home.

Chile, day 2 & 3: Valparaiso & Santiago

We went for a day trip to Valparaiso by public transport (Turbus). The day started foggy at the bus station in Santiago, but by the time we made it to Valparaiso, it was sunny and we were ready for brunch at Plaza de la Victoria in front of nice fountain with La Sebastiana casa museo de Pablo Neruda in the Bellavista hills above. The day was essentially a long walk parallel to the coast from the bus station at Pedro Montt, across the street from Congreso Nacional to Cerro Artilleria and back, with many side “excursions” to Cerro Alegre, Concepcion and Bellavista. We enjoyed walking up- and down-the hills, twisted side streets, colorful houses, short rides on Ascensor Artilleria and panoramic views of the city and port. We liked the murals, colorful and often complex. The streets were full of people, mostly locals minding their daily business, some tourists too, of course.

Trip to Valparaiso…

The next day was all about Aldo’s Ph.D. thesis defense at Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile, lunch in Lastarria, a walk around La Alameda/Cerro Santa Lucia and an evening walk through the city center.

Santiago…

Chile, day 1: Santiago

It is over 5 thousand miles from Chicago to Santiago de Chile (11.5 hours total flying time, over 15 hours with connection). It all went smooth, the storm over Houston did not slow us down, we left home in mid afternoon and at 10 am next morning (Chile time) we were walking out of the metro station in the city center (we took airport bus to the metro station and metro to downtown). Short walk and we were at our airbnb on Calle Londres. The building next door, at Calle Londres 38/40, is a former jail and torture facility, used during the Pinochet regime. Our host was waiting for us for an early check-in and we were on our way to Plaza de Armas. The streets were quite empty in the morning (Sunday). We then continued along La Alameda (Santiago’s main street) towards Centro Gabriela Mistral (distinguished, among other things, by its elevation finish in rusted perforated metal sheets), and then to Pablo Neruda house (La Chascona). Stopping for lunch at Azul Profundo (surtido de ceviches, very good). Walking through Nerudas’s residence was very relaxing (informative self-guided tour). Our attempts to go to the top of the San Cristobal Hill (right above La Chascona) failed: the line for the teleferico was way to long and we picked wrong trail (mountain bike trail with heavy traffic going down the hill). But we walked around the hill to have a nice view of the city at sunset. Bought empanadas for dinner and some food for breakfast. Stopped at Plaza de Armas for a moment on the way to our airbnb.

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