Days 23-26: Mt Robson-Hazelton-Kitwanga-Gitanyow
July 6-9
Heading north from The Rockies we decided to travel northeast from Prince George towards the Ocean, Stewart (CA) and Hyder (AK). The original plan was to first go north towards Dawson creek and Fort Nelson. Overall the same loop, but in opposite direction. In Kitwanga we changed from Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy to Stewart-Cassiar Hwy.
Full day in Mt Robson Provincial Park hiking along Robson River to Kinney Lake and Valley of Thousand Falls. 22 km (return) with 490 m total elevation gain. Despite the length of the hike, it was relaxing day. Walking on good trails, sometimes uphill, crossing gravel flats, along the river and the lake. Water color was very interesting, changing throughout the day and depending on viewing angle. Glacial-opaque and from light to intense blue-green. Contrasting green forest and gray rocks above water, then mountain tops covered with snow and white clouds on blue sky. Our photos actually tell the truth. We did not make it all the way through Valley of Thousand Falls, as that looked like requiring bushwhacking beyond trail wash-out point. We returned to Robson Meadows campground quite tired at the end of long day. We already had a spot reserved there.
We are now moving along Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy from Rearguard Falls in the morning to wild camping near Zelkwas Lake, 40 km past Prince George. With longer stop along the way to visit Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park.
The day was very hot and walking under old big trees (hundreds-years old western redcedars) was quite a relief. Humid as in all rainforests. The Provincial Park was set-up to preserve remnants of pristine ancient forest, the only inland temperate rainforest in the world, which somehow survived logging. The redcedars are very big and tall, difficult to photograph, much more impressive in real life.
We continued moving along Yellowhead Hwy to Vanderhoof (excellent Tourism and Cultural Centre and small museum nearby), Ksan Village (museum/skansen was closed), Hagwilget Bridge, Hazelton and Kitwanga (Gitwangak Totem Poles). The day was about visiting small towns and native villages with interesting history and getting a good look at many totem poles. We had no luck with museums but had a look at old houses from the outside. Old Hazelton (Village) has some small buildings remaining from the old days and intesting bridge on the way from New Hazelton. With no time to drive anymore, we decided to stay at small Kitwanga Municipal campground, right in the village. Next morning we stopped at Gitwangak Battle Hill National Historic Site and spent couple of hours walking around more totem poles in Gitanyow (Historic Village and Interpretative Center was closed), before driving 200 km to Stewart (next post).
The poles are of different age as the tradition to carve them continues. Some poles stand in the same place where important villages used to be, like in Gitanyow on Kitwanga River. Some are on display in Ksan Village skansen. Some are replicas of originals now in big museums. We did not get a chance to talk to anybody there, but we liked the art and culture experience.
Time Machine: mountain hiking in Poland 1963-1976
Sorting through family documents I came across old hiking log-books (Książeczki GOT PTTK): twelve multi-day mountain treks in southern Poland and one in Slovakia from 1963 to 1976, and a series of day-hikes in Tatra Mountains in 1964 and 1970. Over 1500km and many major mountain peaks hiked. The map traces roughly connect 30-50 waypoints recorded for each set/trek. We mostly followed established hiking trails and used public transportation only occasionally. Many local roads were still quite walkable, some were not even built yet. I remember quite a few names on the map, some viewes and events, but it is all very fuzzy.
Recommended resource: ☞ trail map for mountains in Poland and Slovakia (Mapa Turystyczna)
List of summer treks and day-hikes 1963-1976
| Year | Start | End | ||||
| 1963 | Bieszczady | Lesko | Komańcza | |||
| 1964 | Tatry | Zakopane | day-hikes | |||
| Tatry Wysokie | Tatrzanska Lomnica | Stary Smokovec | ||||
| Pogórze Przedtatrzanskie-Pieniny | Chochołów | Sromowce Niżne | ||||
| 1965 | Beskidy | Ptaszkowa | Ustrzyki Górne | |||
| 1966 | Gorce | Zabrzeż | Rabka Zaryte | |||
| 1967 | Pieniny | Krościenko | Tylicz | |||
| 1968 | Beskid Mały | Skawce | Czernichów | |||
| Beskid Żywiecki | Rycerka Dolna | Ujsoły | ||||
| 1969 | Bieszczady-Beskid Ślaski | Lutowiska | Grybów | |||
| 1970 | Tatry | Zakopane | day-hikes | |||
| 1971 | Beskid Wyspowy-Beskid Mały-Pogórze Roznowskie | Wapiennica | Cieżkowice | |||
| 1973 | Góry Izerskie-Karkonosze-Góry Wałbrzyskie-Kotlina Kłodzka-Góry Bystrzyckie | Świeradow Zdroó | Bystrzyca Kłdzka | |||
| 1976 | Beskid Żywiecki | Zwardoń | Ujsoły | |||
| 1976 | Gorce-Beskid SÄ…decki | Nowy Targ | Rytro |
Subaru life – part 2 (more improvements)
After initial design and multiple prototypes of our Forester minimalistic camper described in ☞ part 1, and testing on the road we are introducing additional improvements before heading west and north to Canada and Alaska on our longest road trip yet.
- Quick set-up side-awning. Two telescoping poles and two brackets are attached along and at the ends  of cross-bars. Tarp packed in bag travels in roof box. Two webbing straps with grommets were added to off-the-shelf tarp. 1/4 in fiberglass poles are inserted into tarp channels on each side of the straps to keep the tarp stretched. Machine sawing was necessary. Car-side-end (top in the photo) hooks on pins on top of the brackets, side straps with buckles attach short flap to the poles and car roof rail. At the other end, grommets are hooked on metal tips of the poles which are extended to span the tarp. Short side-straps with grommets at this end can be used for additional vertical poles and/or cords to secure awning to the ground. No light-weight awning would work in strong wind.
- New removable/washable cases for mattress and pilows. All foam pieces are  enclosed in additional inner cases. Comforter(s) is rolled-up with the mattress and pillows are bagged during travel (sometimes loaded in roof-top-box).
- What goes into the roof-top-box (we could not do without it): folding table, two telescoping poles for awnings, our side-awning tarp, Hasika awning and its “vertical” poles, shovel, tarp and towel (wrapping and silencing), two folding chairs, rakes. We always keep walking poles in the box. Our stove packs in the box as well as recovery traction boards and backpacks with camping gear. Not everything goes on every trip.
- Roll of plastic tablecloth and cutting board (in dedicated bags) travel on the back shelf. The board serves also as a temporary side-table supported by armrest and plastic strip with a pin attached to dashboard, in case we need mealtime shelter from rain or biting insects.
- Two short rails were added on top of the back shelf (both sides) for extra attachment points for “stuff” and corner brackets were added to strenghten the shelf/drawer box.
- Reading lamp is clamped on side-rail above the shelve and hooked-up to power bank. Baskets for small frequently used items are attached to the rails as well – pieces of bungee cord weaved through basket walls hold items down.
- Three straps attach to buckles mounted on the shelf plus a piece of carpet  wrap around and hold rolled-up mattress.
- The two plastic containers described in part 1, are now used one for kitchen items and one for food storage. All personal belongings are now packed using multiple organizers in easily accessible large duffel bag  sitting on the platform and on driver’s seat at night.
The improvements eliminate/streamline some packing-unpacking and moving stuff around.
Subaru life – part 1
We started thinking about road trip from Chicago to Alaska a while ago. We are hoping to finally make the trip this year, at least part of it to Canadian Rockies. Piotr started designing modifications we would need to make to be able to sleep in our 2014 Forester and have well organized space to load all the stuff. The work started in earnest in spring of 2020 with first parts/equipment purchased in June.  See also ☞ part 2.
There was no way we could make comfortable living space without replacing back seats with a platform extending from and leveled with the trunk floor. Piotr decided to use 30mm aluminum extrusion system (easy to install, modify or disassemble) for the support structure (strong, lightweight and using little space). No modifications were made to the car, no drilling holes for screws, nothing was glued. The design was flexible and many improvements followed. Photos illustrate design and main features. The platform was fully assembled in 2021 and tested for the first time (just 3 nights) on ☞ our trip to Isle Royale. Two plastic containers (with seals and latches to be water/dust-proof, and to keep rodents and pests out) are for food/kitchen and clothing. For the night they are stacked on passenger’s seat and duffel bag goes on drivers’ seat.
Driver’s seat does not have to be moved – Piotr takes longer space behind passenger’s seat which is moved forward for the night. Piotr made cut-to-shape foam mattress and pillows. On ☞ 2021 trip to California, we did not yet have roof-top cargo box:  our backpacks fully packed and ready for John Muir Trail had to be moved around which was rather annoying. They traveled behind rolled mattress, plastic containers and other stuff was on the platform behind front seats. For the night, we placed mesh screens on back windows to keep them slightly (1-3 cm) open (later we added rain protectors). It all already worked quite well.
Before long “true” ☞ road trip to the Southwest in 2022, we added shelf (workbench) with drawer, extra mattress memory foam layer, cargo box, straps to hold rolled mattress. The bottom of the drawer on the outside is covered with the same carpet as the platform. Plastic containers, our portable wash station and 20L drinking water container fit under the workbench when mattress is rolled-packed. Surprisingly, clearance between mattress and work bench which looks rather low was not a problem at night. The mesh pocket on the workbench did not work and is no longer used. We packed more tools, spare parts, repair kits and car recovery tools as driving on more remote dirt road was planned. All hidden away in places not really usable for everyday items.
Addition of the shelf and drawer was the biggest improvement and time-saver. Finally, we had place for all small, frequently used items, work space to prepare quick meal, place to keep many items within reach at night etc. See-through containers work well. They are easy to move around, keep everything dry and clean, and can serve as side-tables. We learned to keep them closed all the time – a mouse boarded our car when we were cooking dinner and travelled with us for a couple of days. It did not get to our food. Â We always travel with portable wash station and now added basket for soap, bug sprays, dishwashing detergent, sunscreen etc., everything easily accessible. Roof-top cargo box makes packing a lot easier and faster (backpacks packed and ready for Buckskin/Paria Canyon hike traveled there out of the way). Hasika awning fits Forester very well and can be easily packed in the cargo box. Piotr shortened legs of the Eurmax canopy so folded it fits snugly behind front seats, but it is heavy and bulky, not good for long trips.
There is quite a bit of packing space below the sleeping platform for items used less frequently. Â Air compressor for tires, car battery jump-starter, reserves of paper towels and toilet paper etc. It took us a bit of practice to figure out what to pack where. Space on the floor behind front seats is relatively accessible – we keep extra food there, bottles with drinking water, small cooler. There is flat bag behind passenger seat for small items. And we have mesh pockets on both sides for shoes (up to 3 pairs each), easy to load from the side before shutting doors for the night, or getting different shoes. There is enough space on the platform (with mattress rolled) to load groceries or firewood we pack away or use later in the day.
This is really quite minimalistic life-style – experience from multi-day hikes made the transition easier (Joanna thinks we take too much of everything). We already have a good routine for everything from what stuff to take with us, how and where to pack it to seting-up camp in different environments, preparing our car for the night and packing in the morning, sourcing and cooking food. Being prepared for mechanical problems and emergencies (lucky so far). Good organization and compartmentalization make huge difference. We have been quite lucky with weather. Extended rainy or very cold weather could make living out of Forester camper more challenging.  But there is always a weather forecast to get ready and wait the bad weather out in a motel or guest house, if necessary (we do it every 5-7 days anyway). Piotr is already on the next wave of improvements with new experience from 2024 ☞ Eastern Canada road trip.
Explanation of  shelf installation (in place of standar cargo area cover).
