Category: Puerto Rico

We considered different short trip options for Piotr’s birthday and decided on “tropical island” – Puerto Rico. The main reason: it has three of World’s five bioluminescent bays, including the brightest one, which we really wanted to visit. Tickets were reasonably priced (Frontier). We arrived on time on the way-in, but were significantly delayed on the way back – we decided to rebook for the following day (non-stop flight to Chicago) rather than being stuck in Atlanta. Everything else was easy to arrange even on short notice (airbnbs, car rental, ferry, tours). We were very happy with the selected airbnbs (only one had less than ideal localization, it was selected on the spot for the last night after flight delay), all were very clean, well-organized and with kitchens/kitchenette. Some were really large with bedroom and living room. Hosts were easy to interact with and helpful. Food was good, especially seafood, but vegetables were scarce. Overall prices were similar to US, slightly cheaper.

We drove 770 km in rental Hyundai Sonata from Enterprise in Isla Verde (recommended). It was supposed to be Toyota. Piotr did not quite like small windows and low roof. We also used ferry and shuttles across Vieques island plus two tours. We even managed to take a bus from the airport twice, despite everyone saying that public transport does not work – it works well, but there is very little information. Driving required quite a bit of concentration on often narrow and winding roads (Joanna chose Ruta Panoramica through mountainous interior), some with sudden changes in pavement quality (potholes) and markings. Major highways (some with tolls, but most paid roads can be easily avoided) are OK. Most drivers are relaxed and we had no problems at all. The number of cars everywhere was quite surprising. As always, we walked a lot – 10 km a day on average (the seven short & easy trails shown on the map below are just 39 km).

We visited several forests (two tropical rain forests, a cloud forest, dry costal forest, mangroves) and a dozen beaches, some with good swimming some with sargassum accumulation to different degree. At El Yunque, rain forest  covers low, sometimes rugged hills on old volcanic foundations. The rest of Puerto Rico is pretty much uplifted and eroded limestone formation.

There is still damage from hurricanes Maria and Fiona, some abandoned properties, many trails and tourist amenities closed, but many houses and businesses were freshly renovated.

Our destinations.

Resources

additional resources/links are included in location-specific posts
☞ Rough Guides: Puerto Rico
☞ iNaturalist Puerto Rico
☞ PR Day Trips
☞ PR Travel Guide
☞ Ruta Panoramica map 1
☞ Ruta Panoramica map 2 (East)

Guánica State Forest was our next destination for its unique, considered largest and most pristine tropical dry coastal forest ecosystem (and Biosphere Reserve). It is located on the south shore (southeast of the island) facing Carribean Sea. Driving to Guanica was quite slow and boring. First stop was at Tibes Indigenous Ceremonial Center and botanical garden on the outskirts of Ponce with interesting plants used by indigenous Taino. We then drove along the coast to Playa Tamarindo, parked our car at the end of the road and walked part of Meseta Trail along the coast stopping frequently to examin often unique (to us) plants and birds. Plus swiming at Tamarindo beach afterwards. It was much hotter than in the mountains. Altogether we spent just four hours there and came back to Utuado at dusk. More photos of plants from the forest are in our ☞ Puerto Rico nature photo album.

On what we thought was our last day in Puerto Rico, we drove north to Arecibo for last swim at La Poza del Obispo, spent an hour exploring Cueva del Indio Nature Reserve which we realy enjoyed,  stopped briefly at Playa Caracoles, ate late lunch at Pura Pesca (recommended) in Barcenoleta, beat traffic to San Juan to return our rental, took bus to the airport and checked-in for our flight back. Only to discover a moment later that our flight departure was delayed by full 2 hours, more than our layover in Atlanta.  Quick decission to stay in San Juan rather than being stranded over night in Atlanta. Luckily we were rebooked for a better=direct flight next day. Our apartment that we quickly booked was nice and clean, but in less than perfect location. With extra time, in the evening we walked to Playa Ocean Park and back home through gated neighbourhood. And then again to the same beach for morning swim. Lunch at Degetau Sea Food Restaurant and we were back at the airport for an easy flight to Chicago. The day was very hot so we used Uber for transportation (efficient but requires patience to get good rates).