Eastern Canada road trip days 8-13: Labrador

Day 8.

We had overcast/drizzle start of the day with more biting flies (this time we were prepared a lot better). Still got some good viewes of Lac Manicouagan from the road before we reached truck stop at Relais-Gabriel to fill-up the tank. CC terminal did not work  – it was one of a few ocassions when we dipped into our cash reserve. We paid $67.12 in notes and coins – at $2.459 per liter the most expensive gasoline of the trip.

Twelve  miles later, we attempted a short forest walk (Sentier Provencher trail), but it was through dense, wet undergrowth  (rain pants and ponchos required). Next  stop, just across the road in Uapishka Biodiversity Reserve, was longer. First, we checked-out beach-side campsites there, not bad alternative to where we stayed,  and then we walked a bit on Sentier trail with good views on Lac Manicouagan. We were certainly fascinated by vegetation on the forest floor, but also jeleaous watching kayakers paddling up one of the river outlets. Breaks in rainy weather were good for walking, but not enough for us to go sailing.

Trafic on Rt 389 was light, very few passanger cars and not too many heavy trucks, most near open-pit mine(s) and Labrador City. The road here is running along railway and has a bit too much of industrial revolution feel, even though interesting on its own. We drove around Labrador City and settled for the night at Two Seasons Inn.

We liked boreal forest: trees on carpet of tajga-style ground-cover of lichen and moss dotted with mushrooms and berries, all quietly surrounded by green hills, and greyish sky and water.

«« Scroll to view more photos »»

Black spruce Picea mariana
Lichen little zoo
Reindeer lichen Cladonia stellaris
Bog Labrador tea Rhododendron groenlandicum on lichen
Lingonberry Vaccinium vitis-idaea in reindeer lichen
Haircap moss Polytrichum commune
Arctic Stag’s-horn clubmoss Lycopodium lagopus
Mashroom, creeping snowberry on peatmoss
Stiff clubmoss Spinulum
Creeping snowberry Gaultheria hispidula on peatmoss
Lowbush blueberry Vaccinium angustifolium
 
 

☞ Larger-size photos in nature gallery

Day 9.

We are now out of Labrador City heading east on Trans Labrador Highway 500. Weather is back to “normal”: sunny with few clouds. We just keep driving enjoying the views from our car, sometimes stopping at road’s edge or on bridges when no other cars were in sight (almost always). The road is all paved from now on and fixed-up recently. With little other traffic, one wonders how good it is to be able to drive through Labrador and just look around. We stopped for a short walk to get a good view of Churchill Falls. More driving and looking around, and finding wild campsite for the night.

Piotr found new assignment: combing forests to photograph mushrooms.

«« Scroll to view more photos »»

☞ Larger-size photos in nature gallery

Day 10.

The following day we made it to Happy Valley-Goose Bay. Spent some time wandering along Churchill River’s sandy banks and wetlands. It is all flat here with the river meandering slowly towards open sea still more than 100 miles away. Next destination: Labrador Interpretation Centre (in North West River), after  short scramble up to small waterfalls across the road from Gosling Lake. We were the last and only visitors just before the Center closed. We had informative and funny conversation with the guide. Finally somebody tought us how to properly pronounce “Newfoundland” (we had no clue) as we were heading there in a couple of days. At the end of the day, we were back on Trans Labrador Highway heading South-East and South on Rt 510 (a.k.a. South Labrador Highway). We crossed Churchill River and a couple of hours later found a decent camp site just at sunset (dinner with head lamps on). Joanna was ready  to visit towns, historical places and more museums.

Day 11.

We are driving across Lablador’s interior, but getting closer to the ocean, Port Hope Simpson and Mary’s Harbour. We liked Mary’s Harbour and spent some time looking around and walking on Gin Cove (boardwalk) Path. We briefly considered day-trip to Battle Island ($150 per person, overnight trips are notoriously expensive), but we would have to stay extra day in the area.

Day 12.

We completed the Labrador part of our trip in the following day and a half, first cutting across the interior to Red Bay. We somehow made it for 10 am one-hour visit to Saddle Island (short boat ride away) and even had half an hour to spare for breakfas in nearby restaurant (our mornings are usually very slow). Piotr had traditional salted cod breakfast and lived. We knew about the English and French, but learning about 16th-century Basque whaling was a good history lesson. There is not much left to see from those times – small exhibition provides good illustration. It was enough time to walk a short loop around the island (mostly boardwalk, some under construction). We were spared heavy rain – it was overcast, foggy with ocassional very light drizzle. The kind of weather that stirs imagination.

We then jumped to Pinware River Provincial Park for a pleasant walk on beaches (river-side and sea-side). Water in the river is clear but brownish (tanins) and sand is reddish/orange – colors enhanced by sunlight getting through the clouds. It was moderate rain rest of the day and we decided to stay “indoors” for the night – in cottage Grenfell B&B Forteau. We stopped at 7500-year-old burial site at L’Anse-Amour and climbed to the top of L’Anse-Amour lighthouse. We tried Labrador tea for the first time at the lighthouse museum – it grows everywhere and we collected/dried some leaves in Newfoundland.

Day 13.

We joined visitors staying in other cottages for home-made breakfast. Nice conversation about travel and some local specialties like bakeapple (cloudberry) jam which we tried for the first time. We drove on Rt 510 west all the way past Blanc-Sablon stopping a few times to view rugged and more barren cost. Joanna walked more on historical Jersey Trail   learning about 19th century life of fishermen and sealers, and their families. Early afternoon we were ready to board 3:30 pm Blanc-Sablon to St Barbe ferry. Couple hours later we landed in Newfoundland.

Eastern Canada road trip days 1-7: Chicago to Quebec

Day 1 -3.

The trip started with pretty much non-stop driving. We crossed the border in Detroit on Ambassador Bridge (after relatively short wait) and arrived at Big Band Conservation Area campground in early evening. Yes, we camped on Thames River near London. Ontario has great network of small Conservancy Areas that offer short walks, picnic and camping. Next day we passed Toronto and camped at Darlington Provincial Park on Lake Ontario, where we walked along the shore. The following day we drove to Milles Roches/Snetsinger Island campground (recommended). On the way, we spent some time exploring locks 46-49 of Rideau Canal at Kingston Mills. We also took a short break from highway-driving (Hwy 401) and slowly moved along St Lawrence River on 1000 Islands Pkwy (between Rockport and Butternut Bay) with good views on the river (Thousand Island National Park).

Day 4.  

We moved past Montreal to Petite-Rivière in Quebec where we stayed two nights at camping du Domaine à Liguori/Coopérative de Solidarité l’Affluent (recommended). We knew nothing about this place as Joanna found it in late afternoon researching options for O/N stay. Pleasant surprise: not only a nice place to stay and friendly people, but also mountains in the backyard to hike.

Day 5.

Finally without driving. We walked over to the lower Massif de Charlevoix gondola station, took the gondola to the top and following advice received at the Co-op started looking for trails to walk back down. We were unprepared. To a hiker it looked like the mountaintop was just plowed over –  it is skis and mountain bikes territory. Nobody insisted on selling us single-ride tickets as everybody else had a pass. When asked about “the trail”, locals told us just to go downhill. Friendly ATV rider directed us to power line on the horizon and we found it there. Piotr tuned-in to Organic Maps. There are many well maintained and marked walking trails on the mountain, separate from mountan bike trails. Once a bit away from the center of activity, it was quiet, with good views on surrounding hills and St Lawrence River. We completed 14 km loop (almost 3 km/650 m gondola ascent and 11 km walking) through forest with some open vistas and visiting small waterfalls near our campground (recommended).

Download Piotr’s GPX file

Day 6.

Laundry, hot shower and good, morning coffee at the Co-op, and we are ready to go. After short stop in Petite Rivière, we drove closer to the river  through small towns and villages along Rte Du Fleuve (382) from Baie Saint Paul to La Malbaie, rather than on the main highway (138). We stopped at St-Irénée beach and train station. A round trip on Train de Charlevoix along St Lawrence River sounded interesting, but we were a day behind our initial schedule already. We stopped for lunch at Boulangerie Artisanale in La Malbaie: good coffee, pastry and bread (recommended).

Next stops: Pointe-Noire Interpretation and Observation Centre to watch belugas and, after crossing Rivière Saguenay by ferry, Marine Environment Discovery Centre in Les Escoumins (both Parks Canada). We visited this part of Quebec on earlier road trip (☞ Quebec 2009). We purchased our annual park pass there (hoping to use it also in western Canada in 2024). We then observed several beluga pods for an hour or so. The Discovery Center was closed, but we were allowed to visit the rocky coast behind it – popular whale-watching spot (no luck this time).

We arrived at Les Dinosaures du Quai De Ragueneau after 7 pm.  Popular and very nice (parking lot) camping site on the peninsula (recommended on iOverlander etc) was packed with large campers. Not for us even though a tight parking spot was available. We walked around to check out the views and dinosaur-like sculptures next morning. We decided to O/N on the main picnic area parking lot (next to Oie de George-Henri Gagné) with a few other (dispersed) car-campers, not bad. Access road to perfect camp sites on the other side of the bay, which we checked-out next day, looked impassable (mud). It was getting dark and started to drizzle. Enough time to cook dinner in nearby shelter. Toilet was permanently closed. Weather was nice next morning so we took to the trail through taiga and rock outcrops along St Lawrence River.

Day 7.

Real adventure begins: we are driving from Baie Comeau inland on Quebec Rte 389 heading north towards Labrador, tank full. The first section of the road to Manic 5 is in very good shape with very few cars/trucks. It feels somewhat remote but safe. The landscape is flat with some hills. Endless dense forest, meadows, marshes, lakes, rivers and streams. Changing all the time but not in very dramatic way, making the trip relaxing. We loved the emptiness. There aren’t any organized rest stops or even just accessible side roads to park for a break. It is continuous ditch on both sides of the road. We found a decent spot on side road for Piotr’s obligatory afternoon nap. Next stops: Visitor Center at Manic 5 (very engaging staff) and viewpoint on nearby hill. The size of the dam is impressive. We learned about meteorite crater filled with water when the dam was built.  Lac Manicouagan with island in the middle, the round shape on map,  attracted our attention years ago.

Two sections of Rte 389 between Manic 5 and Labrador City are unpaved gravel, but quite well maintained (mostly). We encountered few passenger cars and a number of heavy trucks. Yes, one speeding truck sprayed our windshield with gravel (luckily causing no damage), but the road does not really live-up to its reputation as difficult, bad and dangerous. Patience and slow driving helps.

As we were driving along Lake Manicouagan, we found on map a road section running very close to the shore. We decided to look for wild camp site in this area. We took first obvious dirt road towards the lake and found good spots on stony beach, but decided to park a short distance away. Weather was changing and we thought we would be better protected from wind there. Rain and wind came, but nothing serious. There were obvious signs (tire tracks) of other visitors but no one in sight that day, even at access points further down the road. Piotr started fire on the beach and Joanna cooked dinner. All sounds great, but we were also attacked by swarms of (nasty) biting black flies. Glad we had mosquito nets, but were bitten many times anyway before we took precautions. They fly in front of your eyes just for deception but crawl into your hair and bite your neck. It takes quite some time to feel it. Painful lesson learned. End of August was supposed to be already past peak fly season.

11-day trip to Puerto Rico

We considered different short trip options for Piotr’s birthday and decided on “tropical island” – Puerto Rico. The main reason: it has three of World’s five bioluminescent bays, including the brightest one, which we really wanted to visit. Tickets were reasonably priced (Frontier). We arrived on time on the way-in, but were significantly delayed on the way back – we decided to rebook for the following day (non-stop flight to Chicago) rather than being stuck in Atlanta. Everything else was easy to arrange even on short notice (airbnbs, car rental, ferry, tours). We were very happy with the selected airbnbs (only one had less than ideal localization, it was selected on the spot for the last night after flight delay), all were very clean, well-organized and with kitchens/kitchenette. Some were really large with bedroom and living room. Hosts were easy to interact with and helpful. Food was good, especially seafood, but vegetables were scarce. Overall prices were similar to US, slightly cheaper.

We drove 770 km in rental Hyundai Sonata (from Enterprise in Isla Verde, good service). It was supposed to be Toyota. Piotr did not quite like small windows and low roof. We also used ferry and shuttles across Vieques island plus two tours. We even managed to take a bus from the airport twice, despite everyone saying that public transport does not work – it works well, but there is very little information. Driving required quite a bit of concentration on often narrow and winding roads (Joanna chose Ruta Panoramica through mountainous interior), some with sudden changes in pavement quality (potholes) and markings. Major highways (some with tolls, but most paid roads can be easily avoided) are OK. Most drivers are relaxed and we had no problems at all. The number of cars everywhere was quite surprising. As always, we walked a lot – 10 km a day on average (the seven short & easy trails shown on the map below are just 39 km).

We visited several forests (two tropical rain forests, a cloud forest, dry costal forest, mangroves) and a dozen beaches, some with good swimming some with sargassum accumulation to different degree. At El Yunque, rain forest  covers low, sometimes rugged hills on old volcanic foundations. The rest of Puerto Rico is pretty much uplifted and eroded limestone formation.

There is still damage from hurricanes Maria and Fiona, some abandoned properties, many trails and tourist amenities closed, but many houses and businesses were freshly renovated.

Puerto Rico road trip

Resources

additional resources/links are included in location-specific posts
☞ Rough Guides: Puerto Rico
☞ iNaturalist Puerto Rico
☞ PR Day Trips
☞ PR Travel Guide
☞ Ruta Panoramica map 1
☞ Ruta Panoramica map 2 (East)

Puerto Rico day 9-11: Bosque de Guánica and north coast (Arecibo – San Juan)

Guánica State Forest was our next destination for its unique, considered largest and most pristine tropical dry coastal forest ecosystem (and Biosphere Reserve). It is located on the south shore (southeast of the island) facing Carribean Sea. Driving to Guanica was quite slow and boring. First stop was at Tibes Indigenous Ceremonial Center and botanical garden on the outskirts of Ponce with interesting plants used by indigenous Taino. We then drove along the coast to Playa Tamarindo, parked our car at the end of the road and walked part of Meseta Trail along the coast stopping frequently to examin often unique (to us) plants and birds. Plus swiming at Tamarindo beach afterwards. It was much hotter than in the mountains. Altogether we spent just four hours there and came back to Utuado at dusk. More photos of plants from the forest are in our Puerto Rico ☞ nature photo album.

On what we thought was our last day in Puerto Rico, we drove north to Arecibo for last swim at La Poza del Obispo, spent an hour exploring Cueva del Indio Nature Reserve which we realy enjoyed,  stopped briefly at Playa Caracoles, ate late lunch at Pura Pesca (recommended) in Barcenoleta, beat traffic to San Juan to return our rental, took bus to the airport and checked-in for our flight back. Only to discover a moment later that our flight departure was delayed by full 2 hours, more than our layover in Atlanta.  Quick decission to stay in San Juan rather than being stranded over night in Atlanta. Luckily we were rebooked for a better=direct flight next day. Our apartment that we quickly booked was nice and clean, but in less than perfect location. With extra time, in the evening we walked to Playa Ocean Park and back home through gated neighbourhood. And then again to the same beach for morning swim. Lunch at Degetau Sea Food Restaurant and we were back at the airport for an easy flight to Chicago. The day was very hot so we used Uber for transportation (efficient but requires patience to get good rates).

Puerto Rico day 7 & 8: Ruta Panorámica and Rio Tanamá

Ruta Panorámica runs 250 km from Maunabo in Southeast to Mayagüez in the West,  but we had one day to cover only 60-km PR143-section between Barranquitas and Adjuntas. We first drove quickly to Cidra and then followed PR172 and PR156 (already interesting) to Mirador Suñé (Barranquitas) for a quick look at Cañón San Cristóbal. A short drive later we joined Ruta Panorámica proper. The road winds along the central mountain range (Cordillera Central) most of the time staying on top of the hills/ridges with great views on surrounding forest, fields and small villages. The green had many shades from bright and yellowish in full sun to dark and bluish when the sky was overcast. We made several stops on the way: in Barranquitas, at a  small store looking for some food (not much choice), at  Al Horno Bakery & Coffee Shop for lunch break for good coffee and sweets (recommended), at Mirador Orocovis-Villalba, at Charco de los Suspiros to hike to Torre de Toro Negro (5.5-km loop), and at El Banquillo (best views). We followed PR10/ PR123 to  PR111  in Utuado and then to comfortable Mi Casita (recommended) with wonderful hosts, our base for 3 night, across the road from Capilla Perpetuo Socorro just off PR611 (winding and narrow).

Excellent practice of driving on narrow, winding roads with many potholes – all day just  135 km, not rushed. We had enough time for hikes which proved excellent: a short and well maintened Vereda Suñé to see a deep Cañón San Cristóbal and a longer trail in Toro Negro rainforest, much less popular than El Yunque. All tourist amenities (information, bathrooms, picknic areas) were closed at all viewpoints and trails but parking and limited number of trails were available.

Cañón San Cristóbal, view from Mirador Suñé

View from Torre de Toro Negro

Next day we made a trip to Rio Tanamá to kayak through Cueva El Portillo and then walk in the river and swim to Cueva Del Arco. The kayaking part was with a large group, but the second part was just us and our guide. We just wished the river exploration and swimming part was longer. The tour was very well organized by ☞ Batey Adventures (recommended ☞ TA review). Edwin, our guide, turn out to be also a gifted naturalist with good knowledge of local nature and very easy to interact with. After the tour, we walked across the street (PR111) from Batey’s office to Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center to learn about Taino past. Interesting archeological site and small botanical garden (recommended). We continued west on PR111 to Lares to try rosted pork at Lechonera Rancho T (very good), Piotr explored Heladería Lares and we walked around the town center to check out some murals. When we came back to Mia Casite we finally got to see coqui that we heard everywhere, all the time.

error: Content is protected !!