Category: North America

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One week in Tulum

November 2-9

It was a quick decision to go to Mexico on direct United flight from Chicago to Tulum. Easy to organize at last minute, expecting reasonable weather, lesser crowds and lower prices during low/shoulder season. First day was just travel, settling down and grocery shopping. We selected modern studio apartment at Casa del Arbol (recommended). Located in Tulum Centro away from Zona Hotelera along the beach we didn’t visit, but close to everything else (ADO bus station, celectivo stops, shops, restaurants and Chedraui Supermarket). It was excellent, well organized and very clean. Joanna did not like noise of passing cars and motorcycles at night, not a problem for Piotr. We examined Día de Muertos decorations and we ate Pan de Muerto in the evening watching motorcycle parade along our street trying to wake-up somebody (?).

Next day we took colectivo to Tulum ruins and spent half a day there. Colectivos here are convenient and inexpensive mode of transportation, easier to use than in South America. The scene approaching and at park entrance was quite chaotic. We just moved with the flow, waited in two lines to buy tickets and pay “tax” (not too bad), went through “environmental” check-point (had to throw away every piece of plastic they found in our backpacks and yes, they asked us to remove energy bar wrappers too). We asked about, but rejected guided tour offers (very dynamic pricing). Once inside, it was just walking around in well organized and maintained park with many visitors on sunny Sunday. Open sea proximity and views made it even more pleasant experience.

Structures here are quite different from all other Mayan ruins we have visited, both in shape – rectangular buildings not pyramids, and location on ocean cliff – not in flat jungle. Afterwards we went for a swim and walk on the beaches, hard to resist after hot day at the ruins. The coral reef is very close (short boat ride from the beach) and we decided to try to come back for snorkeling.

We liked tropical plants surrounding ruins and enjoyed watching iguanas, Yucatan jays and Great-tailed grackles. A predatory bird was circling in the sky above. We ended the day with seafood dinner at Sabor de Mar and Mexican craft beer in our comfy apartment.

Day 3. We are in Yukatan, we must snorkel/swim in cenotes. Short colectivo ride and shuttle into jungle and we were at Cenotes Yax-Muul. We first explored three cave cenotes with entertaining guide, Joanna rappelled down into one of them and then we went back to swim some more on our own. Water was very clear and at most time there were no or not too many people nearby (except for rappelling) making it an interesting experience.

Day 4. Sian Kaʼan Biosphere Reserve: boat tour of brackish water lagoons and mangroves watching wildlife. Plus soaking in Caribbean Sea at Punta Allen beach followed by lunch in local restaurant. The sea was too rough for snorkeling at coral reef. We were lucky to see several (West Indian) manatees hanging around underwater cenote. They appeared for a few seconds at a time to breath, we gave-up on taking pictures and just observed them. We spent some time with two pods of (Bottlenose) dolphins, watched turtles and crocodiles. We circled around Isla Pajaros to watch birds. In addition to what we captured on film (below), we saw vultures, cormorants, ibis and other birds, and another, this time very large crocodile parked at red mangrove edge.

We went with ☞ Mexico Kan Tours (recommended), after extensive on-line and in person investigation. Good decision: everything was well organized and relaxed, guides were good and engaged, groups were small, we were quite lucky with wildlife, but wished conditions were good for snorkeling. The entire tour was from 7 am pick-up to 4.30 pm drop-off with 6-hour and 80-km boat part.

Day 5. Kind of slow day. Joanna was looking for open cenotes to swim in, found deep Cenote Cristal with fish and turtles. Many open cenotes were closed because of recent rains. Piotr was resting.

Day 6. More Mayan ruins, this time in Coba. We took Oriente bus from ADO terminal. Upon arrival at the archeological park, we were approached by many people offering services (guides, bike rentals, bike “taxis”) frequently, but not overwhelming like in many other tourist destinations. Coba was reminiscent of other Mayan sites we visited in Guatemala and Belize. Easy walking on old Mayan roads (stone causeways) shaded by trees between excavated/restored structures with many more unexcavated piles of stones hiding in the jungle. Coba was a large center with history going back two thousand years, great influence at its peak and competing with Chichen Itza. It was abandoned by mid 16th century. There are many reasonably preserved structures/pyramids to explore (climbing them is no longer permitted), but stelas are quite aged. Access to Nohoch Mul pyramid (tallest in Coba) was restricted by construction of new viewing platforms.

We took colectivo on the way back. We found the stop, but asked around about departure times with mixed results. One person knew the correct answer and we soon were back in Tulum. We each had 4 tacos for dinner at Taqueria Maya on Sagitario Oriente: tasty, with different ingredients and flavors.

Day 7. Snorkeling at coral reef and swimming at Tulum beaches. We traveled by colectivo to Tulum ruins again (and later back), but this time we went straight to Playa Paraiso and all other beaches. Line to check point was very long, but at least we were ready without a trace of plastic in our backpacks. Joanna took 2-hour boat trip arranged on Pescadores beach to snorkel at two locations on coral reef: many fish species including large stingrays and many turtles. Plus an opportunity to see Tulum ruins from the sea. To visit the beaches, one has to either pay entrance fee (“tax”) like us or visit one of the beach clubs lining the shore (the boat trip was from one of them).

Piotr spent time relaxing, swimming and watching beach life. Documented 8 different bird species visiting that day.

«« Scroll to view more photos »»

Magnificent frigatebird
  
Royal terns
  
Laughing gull
  
Least sandpiper
  
Gray plover
  
Great-tailed grackle
  
Brown pelikans
  
Snowy egret

On the way home, we stopped at Tamales Don Taco on Centauro Norte (recommended) to pick-up dinner: 8 tamales in several different varieties (mostly chicken). We ate them in the evening with more bear preparing for the return trip next morning. The tamales were very large, fresh, tasty and with different flavors. Wrapped in real banana leaves. Throughout our visit we tried a dozen beers and left tequila/mescal tasting for next time.

We felt safe moving around Tulum and having good base (our apartment) to rest at the end of the day made the trip relaxed and comfortable. Our interactions with local people were friendly and helpful as we were trying to find our way around. Some chaos and sale attempts/tricks at touristy sites were not too surprising and did not affect us much. We liked traveling on colectivos, no-nonsense and inexpensive approach to quickly move people around. Buses were on time and efficient even though buying tickets at the terminal was unbelievably slow (better to buy on-line). Long-term weather forecasts were not reliable. We expected more rain, but we had great sunny or partially sunny days.

Last day was just travel: taxi to ADO bus terminal, bus to all new and modern Tulum (Felipe Carrillo Puerto) airport for flight back to Chicago. Everything on time and without problems.

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Day 62-65: Root Glacier-Wrangell St.Elias NP

August 14-17

Our road trip interactive map

Day 62. Finished packing our backpacks after breakfast and drove to Kennicott pedestrian bridge. We then left our car on nearby parking lot. Crossed the bridge, took shuttle to McCarthy Convenience Store and another one to Kennecott Visitor Center (as we did before). After conferring with rangers and lunch at Meatza Wagon we started easy walk up Root Glacier Trail. Considered a few camp sites and settled at a somewhat secluded/hidden between trees spot off Erie Mine Trail (on short connector between the two trails in Jumbo Creek camping area). We were close to trails, food lockers and pit toilet, and on top of lateral moraine with views down on the glaciers. We wasted no time and walked down to the ice’s edge to check access point before planned longer ice walking following day. The trail goes down steeply into the “ditch” which 100 years ago was filled with ice. We watched for a moment few people still on glacier. No problem.

The mostly “white” (exposed faster flowing ice) Root Glacier closer to us merges with and disappears underneath larger “dirty” (ice covered with layer of small rocks and dirt) Kennicott Glacier coming from behind small mountain ridge. Kennicott Glacier is 500-1000 m thick (estimate ?). Both glaciers are part of the same system coming down from ice field at the base of Mt Blackburn (4966 masl) and nearby peaks. Cracking sound (ice) can be heard frequently, sometimes quite loud.

Day 63. Micro-spikes on and walking sticks in hands, we explored the glacier for several hours, both the “white” and “dirty” parts. We adjusted to walking on ice quite quickly, meandered around bigger dips and cracks in ice, pools of standing water and small streams. We crossed the first “white” arm, climbed-up on “dirty” part in the middle and walked a bit on the other arm. Joanna walked further, but didn’t cross the ice all the way. Walking on the ice in warm sun is relaxing and does not feel overwhelming, but one never forgets how big the glacier is. Small rocks may look like frozen in a clear puddle, but ice underneath can be hundreds meters deep. Glacier is not silent: ice is cracking and small water streams rush somewhere, wind is sweeping down the mountains (rather quiet when we were there).

When we approached our camp, we saw black bear walking down a small hill 50-100 m away. We made some noise, but it stoically walked away towards other campsites. Shortly we heard horns sounding there. No danger to us, even though it for sure knew about food in lockers. Plenty of sweet berries to eat. Food lockers (worked also as tables) were good place to cook meals and meet other hikers. Open view on glacier. Quite far from tents. Joanna cooked, Piotr watched and listened to surrounding bushes.

Day 64. Short, lazy walk on the lateral moraine to see Root Glacier from higher above. Looking down one realizes how much ice is gone. The trail runs on old Erie Mine Rd (used to bring ore down), but we were too relaxed to hike up high to the mine itself. Many signs on the trail of bears feasting on berries. It was foggy weather with occasional drizzle. We walked to the big wash-out (Piotr refused to search for possible by-pass) and returned to camp. Joanna collected wild mushrooms for dinner. With no enticing camping options in McCarthy, we decided to stay another night and walk down next morning.

Day 65. On the way out we took to the air to get a good look of Wrangell Mountains and glaciers. Plenty to see on just 70 min loop around Mt Blackburn area. After walking down from Root Glacier we had barely had enough time for lunch at Meatza Wagon and shuttle ride to McCarthy airport. We flew with Wrangell Mountain Air arranged by St. Elias Alpine Guides. Pilot/guide, us and two other tourists in a 6-seater. We were lucky again to make the arrangement at last moment. Perfect weather. From airplane we could see where glaciers start on high peaks and ice fields, and then icefalls, glacier valleys, lakes and rivers. Hard to believe we walked on one of those glacier tongues.

The original plan was to now go back to Canada and visit Kluane NP, but we decided to spend a few more days exploring Wrangell Mts, this time from Nabesna Road. Two days to get there. We had enough time to drive back on McCarthy Rd to Gilahina Trestle. Camping spots at the bottom were occupied and/or not too interesting, but we noticed a little earlier small path going into the woods – railway tracks leading to the trestle used to run there. Great, quiet camping spot and history in sight.

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Day 58-61: Valdez-Chitina-Kennecott-Wrangell-St. Elias NP

August 10-13

Our road trip interactive map

Day 58. We started the day driving on Richardson Hwy along Lowe Lakes and River, passing Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls. First stop in Valdez was at Crook Creek Information Center. We visited all these places again a day later on the way back. The weather was still fine, cloudy but no constant rain. We knew of possible accomodation problems (weekend and some big event in town). There was nothing available in reasonably priced motels. By noon we made it to Stan Stephens Glacier & Wildlife Cruises office and booked 6-hour afternoon trip to Columbia Glacier. We were quite happy with this lucky arrangement made at very last moment. We had just enough time to go to Valdez Glacier Campground to reserve a site. By 2 PM we were on the boat heading out to sea.

Bald eagles, sea otters, harbor seals, orcas and vanishing chance to see fast retreating glacier. Weather forecast: rain likely, likelihood 100%. Orcas saved this rainy and choppy cruise, it was awesome to watch them. Columbia Glacier from 1 mile away, 2nd largest tidal glacier in North America, flowing 80 feet per day! And receding very fast. It was a lot of movement on board as we were sheltering from rain inside and running outside at first sign of something interesting. Luckily our boat was not overcrowded (50% capacity or so). Everybody was outside for half an hour, wet or not, when we were watching orcas playing around. Taking pictures was not easy (cutting rain, water pouring from the roof, strong wind) – the real experience was much better than what pictures captured.

It was already past 9 PM when we made it back to town and started checking weather reports: heavy rain and wind storm was coming. We were not sure how reliable these reports were, some even calling for “shelter-in-place”. We abandoned our campground spot (lousy state of facilities was another argument against staying there) and checked-in to Valdez Airport Mancamp Hotel (large barracks). Our room was small, but clean, enough space to prepare evening snacks. New clean bathrooms. Our hosts were nice, but we had the impression they do not see too many tourists, as the hotel houses pipeline workers. It emptied for the weekend. Joanna was bothered by strong smell of petroleum product(s) used in recent renovation (?) and very loud heating system. Piotr remembered workers hotels from distant past. Just new experience. Good place to wait-out the storm. It never came.

Day 59. After short visit to misty and beautiful Valdez Glacier Lake we walked Dock Point Trail (loop around small peninsula). Watched young eagles getting ready to fly off for the first time above tidal mud flats (Duck Flats). Views on the flats and Port Valdez. In dense fog and light drizzle, we milled around Valdez: ice-free port from gold rush times through copper mining (Kennicott, our next destination) to trans-Alaska pipeline terminal. Had very good salmon rolls (at The Potato) for lunch and coffee from small booth (coffee booths are very common in Alaska, Piotr’s favorite stops). Walked along the docks towards Ferry Terminal. Just a short stop at Old Valdez (abandoned after 1964 earthquake) on the way out and we were back on scenic Richardson Hwy. We were driving by familiar spots in revers (Day 58 above and Day 57 in previous post). Stopping for photos as weather improved.

We turned on Edgerton Hwy to complete 200 km drive to Chitina. We checked-out nice rustic cabin, but it was too far from parking. Joanna somehow talked the owner of (historic) Gilpatricks Hotel (Hotel Chitina) into accepting us even though they were closed that day. We liked it and stayed there two nights. We prepared our own dinner (kitchen was closed). And we got outside with our neighbors to watch resident moose pulling out algae from the bottom of small pond.

Day 60. Slow rest day in Chitina. We crossed the bridge to get a better look at Chitina and Copper River confluence, observed novel (for us) from-shore fishing technique and talked to disappointed fishermen who were unable to go on the river because of very high water level. And we drove to O’Brien Creek on dirt road which runs where the old rail tracks used to be. Chitina was an important stop on Kennicott-Cordova line built to carry copper ore to the coast. Visited small grocery/supply store. Watching (same) moose eating lunch in a (different) pond (Chitina Town Lake) was our top activity for the day. Stopped at small liquor store. Drove again closer to Copper River, but could not find any working fishing wheels which Joanna wanted to see. By the end of the day we felt like we had talked to everybody in town and learned life story of a few.

Day 61. Our next destination was obvious – we took McCarthy Rd to Wrangell-St. Elias NP. It was 60 miles of unpaved, but quite well maintained gravel/dirt road. It runs along Chitina River valley. Slow going with nice views. Occasional remnants (bridges, trestles) of old copper ore railroad to Chitina and Cordova. In McCarthy we took a nice spot on private campground (terrible restrooms, same was true for another private campground we checked out) located within walking distance to Kennicott river pedestrian bridge. Two shuttles and we were at Kennecott Mine historical site, part of the NP. Two different spellings are used, one for the mine (with “e”), one (with “i”) for everything else. Did not go on guided tour of the mine (wrong timing), but visited several buildings open to the public.

When the mine was built in early 20th century, Kennicott Glacier and Root Glacier were some 100 m thicker/higher blocking the view of mountains on the other side of the valley and people were unaware of the big valley filled with ice in front of them, as the legend goes. Copper ore was brought down to the mill from mines located much higher on mountain slopes.

We spent the night at McCarthy campground and in the morning packed backpacks to spend couple days camping on lateral moraine of Root Glacier.

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Day 53-57: Russian River-Whittier-Anchorage-Chugach Mountains

August 5-9

Our road trip interactive map

Day 53. Fishing day. With fishing rod in the box and license picked-up on the way, we drove to Russian River Ferry, crossed Kenai River and joined many other people catching salmon. We were busy all afternoon and did not waste time to take pictures. Everybody around was pulling fish, but not us. Clearly our understanding of the problem and technique were poor. It was interesting experience anyway. We drove to nearby Cooper Creek CG (Russian River CG was full) and cooked veggies for dinner.

Day 54. Next morning we drove back to look at salmon one more time. Walking along Russian River we were rewarded by good sighting (quite long observation) of grizzly bear. It didn’t even have to catch anything, more than enough leftovers (discarded by people) to go through. We then walked to Russian River Falls, nice and easy hike, where we watched many salmon still going upstream, struggling to pass the rapids. Everybody comes here in season to fish as salmon pushes upstream to spawn.

We hit Sterling and Seward Highways knowing this stretch already. The weather changed to rain of different intensity. Stopped at Summit Lodge for late lunch/dinner. Good food. With not so good weather we did not want to cook dinner later. Short breaks in heavier rain helped us settle at Williwaw Campground. It was good campground, many sites to choose from and close to next destination. We just walked in light rain to the creek to explore possible stop on the way back.

Day 55. Next destination: the historic town of Whittier (built from scratch for military purposes). The town can be only accessed through road tunnel which is interesting. Wanted also to see if we could get on a ferry to Valdez. But first, at Portage Lake we got a full taste of different Alaskan weather: cutting rain and strong wind. No chance for a hike to Portage Glacier and no view. We warmed up at the Visitor Center. There was not much to do in Whittier. Rain didn’t help. No luck with ferry. We drove around to get a closer look at some historic buildings and one apartment building where nearly entire town population lives, complete with store, post office, laundry, church and more. It is interesting “town” to see.

We headed back out in the afternoon stopping on the way at viewpoints to look at mountains and glaciers across flooded Portage Valley and then to watch spawning salmon in Williwaw Creek from trail with access to the stream every 100 m or so to peek in. As we were walking between two such points Piotr turned around (instinctively) and saw a medium-size black bear running quietly across the trail 30 m behind us. It was interested in salmon, we guessed, and did not want to be seen. They know how to disappear. We drove in the rain to Anchorage, it was quite tiring. We had better weather on the way in. Stayed at airbnb. Restocking and laundry.

Day 56. We could not take the ferry, but decided to go to Valdez anyway. Started driving east on Glenn Hwy through Chugach Mountains. Just 280 km ride took us most of the day. The highway is scenic with good viewpoints. We planned to walk to quite famous Matanuska Glacier. We knew about private enterprise blocking access to public land and were prepared to pay an entrance fee, but expensive guided tour offering little was the only option. Retreat. Glacier views from the highway and short trail at one of the stops were distant, panoramic but quite good. The weather improved. In late afternoon, we reached good camping spot with great view (Joanna found recommendation somewhere) on short stretch of old road running for a while along paved Lake Louise Rd. We walked it in the morning. Many camping options, but nobody around.

Day 57. In Glenallen we turned south on Richardson Hwy to Valdez. Stopped at Wrangell-St Elias Visitor Center to collect good info about the park and hikes (where to go later) and refill water containers, and then at Tonsina River Lodge for Russian lunch (borscht and pelmeni). Nice weather, easy driving. Next stop: Joanna was hoping to reach the edge of Worthington Glacier, but ice already retreated too far since a few years ago when she read about it on her favorite travel blog. No easy access now. She tried to climb-up, Piotr stayed around the lake as back-up and taking pictures.

At Thompson Pass we just parked at the entrance of a service road and walked-up to the highest point with great views, not really hiking as we spent most of the time watching changing clouds and fog fast running through mountains and valleys. Very nice Blueberry Lake campground was full, except for a couple not so good overflow spots. We decided to continue and somehow found our way on (pipeline) service roads ending at Sheep Creek and we stayed there. An evening runner on local trail was very surprised to see us. We were happy it was not a bear coming out of the bushes as we just started cooking dinner. He was happy we took all (abundant) mosquitoes away from him.

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Day 48-52: Carter and Crescent Lakes-Exit Glacier and Harding Icefield-Seward and Northwestern Glacier-Ptarmigan Lake-Kenai Lake

July 31-August 4

Our road trip interactive map

We stopped briefly at Seward and Sterling Hwy crossroads to look at the wetlands (Tern Lake) and decide where to go first – we continued south towards Seward. Experienced ranger at Kenai Lake Ranger Station patiently answered all our questions with good recommendations where to hike and camp. Probably the first person not really trying to instill bear panic in us. In no time we started hiking to Carter and Crescent lakes (11 km return, 370 m gain, recommended). Sunny weather, stream, lakes and flowering meadows between rows of mountains – very beautiful. Ran through short stretches of mosquito territory to slowly enjoy Alpine (like) habitat. Few people we met were trout fishing, some using barbless hooks not to hurt the fish (catch-and-release). To end the day, we drove to Primrose campground at the end of Kenai Lake. Warm day before returning to glaciers.

After slow start and visit at Exit Glacier Nature Station (missed ranger walk) we were hiking to Harding Icefield (19 km return, 1050 m total altitude gain, recommended). We knew it would take the rest of the day. At face value it looked like well maintained, moderate trail just up and up. It turn out to be quite hard and steep. We came back tired and camped nearby on Resurrection River gravel flats (decent wild site recommended by the ranger). It was good hiking day with weather changing from good to clouds, fog and freezing drizzle. We had good views of Exit Glacier and (between clouds) Harding Icefield. The trail tops quite high on the mountain slope, but still we could only get a glimpse of the edge the enormous ice field.

Good weather in the morning encouraged us to go directly to Seward to book boat trip to one of the tidewater glaciers. It worked. With tickets in hand we had plenty of time to go back and explore Exit Glacier some more – this time from the bottom (gravel flats). We were not in big hurry, stopped at Le Barn Appetit Inn & Creperie for good, old fashioned, hand made crepes (recommended) and meandered around the base of the glacier. Looking at date markers one has no doubt glaciers are retreating. Viewpoints were designed/built a while ago and now are not close to ice flow anymore.

We already had room at Nauti Otter Inn booked for the night not to waste time before 8:30 am boat departure (from Stewart, only short drive away) next morning. The inn was very well organized, with shared kitchen and dinning room, very nice host, good hostel vibe. Old wood structure was not too good at blocking noise even from normal activity.

Boat trip from Seward to Northwestern Glacier was one of the highlights of our entire trip. We decided to go with ☞ Kanai Fjords Tours (recommended) and chose longer (8-hr) trip on Ocean Explorer to Northwestern Glacier. Surrounding high mountains have many glaciers flowing down from the same Harding Icefield, but rocky shores and small islands are great habitat for birds and other animals, waters are rich too. We saw humpback whales feeding in group, seals and sea lions, otters, porpoises, eagles, puffins, black-legged kittiwake, common murre  and other birds. Blue water and dark rocks surrounding fjords. With calm seas it was pleasant excursion.

In the afternoon we had time to walk around town and for dinner at (packed) Flamingo Lounge (tanner crab and halibut). And to buy inexpensive fishing gear at Bay Traders. It was time to go back. We made it only to Trail River Campground – for us one of the best state campgrounds in Alaska (recommended).

Next morning we drove just across the highway and hiked Ptarmigan Lake Trail, first on old road along the creek, then higher above the valley floor (11 km return, total 210 m gain). Saw only a few people including small group of young summer workers improving the trail (cutting down overgrown vegetation). We stopped again at Tern Lake to watch salmon and this time turned west to Sterling Highway. After driving around Lake Kenai (Copper Landing) we found wild-camping spot, Joanna’s wish. We did not risk bringing our car to the beach (bad end of access road wasn’t really that risky), but cooked dinner and went for a short walk on the shore.

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