Category: North America

We stopped at Gregory Bald one more time and watched park workers clearing vegetation between azalea bushes. Russell Field was closed so we had to make it to Spence Field: 20 km,  800 m total altitude gain. Russell had the highest concentration of black flies which swarm all shelters and camp sites during the day. A solo thru-hiker was happy to see us arrive at Spence, still quite shaken by very close encounter with a bear. We had the shelter for ourselves (thru-hikers go to sleep before dark and move-on at dawn). Spent the evening at camp fire and watching synchronous fireflies after dark. We slept late next day. Spence Field to Derrick Knob was supposed to be an easy day, 10 km and 600 m total altitude gain, but it was up-and-down all the time on rugged leg-tiring trail. But first, we climbed Thunderhead Mountain elevation 5527 ft  (1685 masl), highest point of our hike. Clingmans Dome, the highest peak in Smokys, 12 km from Derrick Knob, is 6644 ft (2025 masl). Rocky Top on the slopes of Thunderhead has 360° view of the Smokys.

Smokys from Rocky Top

Derrick Knob was packed. We were asleep when rangers came to close the shelter: returning bear got too bold and stuck its head into somebody’s tent knocking it down (nobody was hurt). They stapled the notice in the morning. We had good, informative discussion with them at breakfast.

Our trip was timed to see blooming azaleas on Gregory Bald, one of two balds in the park  managed to promote azalea growth. Another easy day, 10 km 500 m total altitude gain. We had some light rain/fog and a bit of Sun. Walking through azalea labyrinth was exceptional experience, colors ranging from pink to orange to red, more like visit to botanical garden.

Azaleas on Gregory Bald

There is no big problem with invasive plants here competing with native azaleas, but population of wild boar (invasive in Appalachia) has to be actively managed. We saw many signs of wild pig activity. At Sheep Pen Gap campsite, we pitched our tent when the rain stopped and were getting ready to cook dinner when a strange noice coming from the forest prompted closer investigation: bear was passing down the slope behind our tent (Joanna saw cub too). We spent an hour looking around, but she never came back. Large group of hikers arrived around 10 pm, so we had numbers to relax and sleep.

Easy day, 10 km and 300 m total elevation gain, Southbound on AT. After a good night rest and breakfast we had time for a short walk just above Spence Field shelter. The grassy bald, remnant of old pasture, offers good panoramic views, and nice stands of blooming azaleas and laurels. Most trails in the Smokies go through pretty dense forest. We will come back here in a couple of days, but now to Mollies Ridge via Russell Field. Mollies Ridge shelter was packed with hikers – Russell Field was closed several days earlier because of bear(s) paying frequent visits.

 

100% hiking day: 14 km and 1300 m total elevation gain. It took us a lot of time to get everything ready on the first day, and get moving with 24 and 32 lb backpacks. We first hiked for a few miles on winding trail to camp site 18 on West Prong Little River and then up to Bote Mountain trail, old forest service road which took us almost all the way to the top of the mountain range, and then we walked  couple hundred meters more down on the other side of the Appalachian Trail (AT) to Spence Field shelter. James Spence settled here in early 19th century and cleared the forest for summer pasture. We had some rain, but pretty good weather most of the time (all heavy-rain weather forecasts were wrong). The trails were gentle, but going up all the time. Not much energy left for taking pictures. The forest was wet and very green. We did better than expected on the first day, hiking according to the old-fashioned rule: 4 points per hour, (14+1300/100)/4=6 hrs 45 mins plus 45 mins for extra breaks.

 

We drove from Chicago to Elkmont (600 miles) with overnight stop near Knoxville.  Elkmont campground was built on the site of logging shanty town right on Little River. We set-up camp and  immediately started warm-up hike up Little River and down Jakes Creek. 11 km, 400 m total elevation gain.

Little River-Cucumber Gap-Jakes Creek loop from Elkmont

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On the way back, we visited remnants of the abandoned resort town kept for preservation (most structures were removed from the park after it was established in 1934). We later returned to the forest along Little River for 9:30 pm ☞ Synchronous Fireflies show. Impossible to photograph with our Lumix. There were many more fireflies than the 2000 visitors who came that night for the once a year event which lasts a couple of weeks or so.