The plan was to cover the first 1000 miles in four days. With anticipated slow start out of Chicago and a day or so to check out Voyageurs NP. Driving was slow as Piotr needed frequent rest stops (after intense and tiring events just before the trip). One rest stop was at three-way continental divide (Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico and Hudson Bay) near Anchor Lake MN. First two campgrounds, Harstad on Eau Claire River WI and Woodenfrog on Kabetogama Lake MN, were nice and relaxing. We managed only short evening walks in both places.
Eau Claire River
Kabetogama Lake
Woodenfrog Campground
Day 3-4.
The following day we stopped at Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center (Voyageurs NP) just to look at the lake and later at Ash River Visitor Center. Here we spent more time walking on Blind Ash Bay and Sullivan Bay Trails, both short. Stopped at Kabetogama Lake and Beaver Pond Overlooks. At this point we realized how hard it is to see anything of the Voyageurs”waterpark” from shore. Quick decision to stay extra night in hotel (RiverFront) in International Falls MN and take morning National Park boat trip on Rainy Lake, with short stop/walk on Little American Island for a history lesson about gold mining. The 3-hour trip was about observing the lake, its islands and shore. With good interpretative talk by our guides. Water everywhere around.
Kabetogama Lake
Blind Ash Bay
Sullivan Bay
Beaver Pond
Little American Island
Rainy Lake
Historic Harry Oveson Fish Camp
Rainy Lake
Rainy Lake
We crossed Canadian border (International Falls MN/Fort Frances ON) in the afternoon. As we were driving on scenic Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 71), we could hear screeching noise coming from the breaks getting louder and more frequent. By the time we arrived at Rushing River Provincial Park ON campground it was clear we needed car mechanic. Now it was all about fixing our car.
Day 5-6.
Next morning we drove slowly to Canadian Tire in Kenora ON and spent most of two days in town waiting. Walked from Travelodge motel to stores and spent some time relaxing in Anicinabe Park. Luckily they were able to bring all the parts next day and get the car ready just before closing. Really great service.
We packed resupplies and started driving west on Trans Canada Hwy (Hwy 1), but made it only short distance past Ontario-Manitoba border. After driving for a while on side/dirt roads we found a decent site on sandy flats, first wild camp of the trip, only to be swarmed by mosquitoes (in retrospect, the worst case of the entire trip including Alaska). We ate something in the car and spent some time hunting insects until all inside were incapacitated.
Rushing River Campground ON
Anicinabe Park Kenora ON
Thousands tried to get inside the car at our first wild camp
Our second road trip of 2023 (after ☞ Puerto Rico) took us on 37-day, 6000-mile loop around Eastern Canada, heading out via Detroit and returning via Cleveland. We crossed 10 states (IL, IN, MI, NY, ME, NH, VT, NY, PA, OH) and 6 provinces: Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland & Labrador, Nova Scotia, Prince Edwards Island and New Brunswick. Traveling Trans-Labrador Highway was the initial impulse for the entire trip. We had a general idea where to go, did research about places to visit and possible O/N sites, but the rest was left to daily decisions (no reservations).
We drove fairly quickly to Baie-Comeau QC. Short stop on the way at Pointe-Noire to watch belugas reminded us ☞ Quebec 2009 trip. Driving was easy as Trans-Labrador Highway was in excellent condition and even the unpaved section of Rt 389 were not bad. Vast, sparsely inhabited expanse of taiga and tundra, and very light traffic preserve Labrador’s remote feel. Landscape is very interesting. Vegetation was surprisingly green and dense, even lush, although growth of everything (except mushrooms) is stunted. There are beautiful lakes, rivers and marshes, but nowhere to stop for a break, except at the road’s edge, or to get a good view, except stopping in the middle of bridges. Most side-dirt-roads, road-side parking lots or post-road-construction sites are neither interesting nor the kind of places one wants to explore. The rest of the trip was easier in this respect.
Scenery was changing all the time: from Great Lakes to St Lawrence River, to Labrador’s interior to Gulf of St Lawrence and Atlantic coast. Many lakes, rivers, streams and fjords. Taiga (boreal forest), tundra, beaches, coastal cliffs and barrens. Some mountains and hills. Interesting rock formations. We saw four black bears (they do not seem to cause problems for campers), 1/2 moose, a heard of 12+1 caribou, one fox, many squirrels and birds, a few dozen pilot whales plus one larger whale (?) far away and several beluga pods.
We had really good weather most of the time. A few nights with colder temps and several rainy days. Despite late in the season, we were hit by flies in multiple locations, two layers of clothing and mosquito nets helped (to some degree) and once by swarms of really nasty mosquitos. Moderate, passing rain during the day or rain, even heavy, at night was not a problem, but substantial rain made packing our car=camper quite a wet experience on one occasion. And we were on collision course with remnants of Hurricane Lee, which passed over our heads on Prince Edward Island. We spent the night in rented cottage just in case, but it was just rain and some gusty wind. We are getting better finding wild camping sites on our own. We had no problems with car travel/camping, but we have some new ideas how to improve/streamline operations before next trip. As it was later in the season, we had no problem finding space in National/Provincial Park capmgrounds or in inns/cottages.
The first objective of the day was to cross Prince Edward Island and then Confederation Bridge over Northumberland Strait. Piotr did not want to get caught driving on long (13 km) exposed bridge in whatever wind leftovers the huricane could still produce. Driving into side wind-gusts with cargo box on the roof is not fun. We just moved steadily and arrived midday in New Brunswick. We new parks and park camgrounds remained closed. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park Visitor Center was closed, but we decided to take to the trails on the coast with quite a few other visitors. Weather was not bad. People come here mostly to watch the tide come and go.
Later, we drove up and down Scenic Drive along the coast (Rte 915). Stopping at Cape Enrage Lighthouse. Piotr did not like wild camping spots Joanna found and we spent the night at The Shire, small camping next to (old) Ha Ha Cemetery. Convenient and nice spot. Hats, mosquito nets, two layers to cover entire body and we were stil bitten multiple times. Â No way we could cook dinner, we ate whatever sitting in the car. All mosquitos from Canada converged on us there, they were not really a problem anywhere else.
Hopewell Rocks…
…
Cape Enrage Peable Beach…
…and lighthouse
Tidal flood plains, Waterside
Ha Ha cemetery.
Day 31.
Next stop, Fundy National Park. We considered staying in Alma, but after talking to rangers at the Visitor Center decided park campground was a better option. We had plenty of time to walk around. Spent some time on the beaches watching the tide sweep-in quite quickly. Watermarks showed impresive tide-height in Bay of Fundy (up to 16 m), among the highest in the World. We also walked two trails, Shiphaven and Coppermine, through forested high banks.
Chignecto Campground is quite large, but there were only a few people around us that day already late in season. We found a good spot near shelter/kitchen (perfect for dinner and breakast on rainy days) . Everything looked new. With plenty of firewood and food we were set for the evening. It was cold and rainy outside.
Herring Cove Beach…
…measuring the tide
Pointe Wolfe (tidal) River
Pointe Wolfe Bridge
Chignecto Bay
Pointe Wolfe Beach
On Coppermine Trail
View from Poin Wolfe Rd, at Dickson Falls trailhead
Kitchen shelter at Chignecto Campground
Day 32.
Now we knew the Canadian adventure is ending – we were heading toward US border. Six more days, 2500 km to Chicago. Driving, some stops to rest and look around. Next major destination: visiting friends in Cleveland.
Coffee break for XL latte at Picadilly Coffee Roasters in Sussex NB (recommended) and brief visit  at New River Beach Provincial Park NB, Joanna walked around, Piotr took driver’s nap. Last two stops in Canada.
When we arrived at Fogg Brook Resort Campground, Palmyra ME, the office was alrady closed but the staff was very nice and came back to check us in. Then neighbours came over with strong flash light, as we were setting camp after dark, and big bundle of camp firewood. It was the first time we camped on golf course.
New River Harbour…
…Beach…
…Provincial Park
Day 33.
We stopped in Freeport ME to pick-up groceries at Bow Street Market and for lunch at Lobster Cooker (recommended) followed by coffee at  Siphouse (recommended) on Main Street. All selected based on friendly recommendations at Mainly Seafood Company just off the highway. Lobster time for Joanna, Piotr settled for fish & chips basket plus later extra-large latte.
And we were back on I-295/95 heading south and then on Hwy 202 and 9 west to Vermont.
George D Aiken Wilderness Rd dispersed camping in Green Mountains, VT (recommended). Last chance for wild camping and we liked it.
Fogg Brook Resort
Lobster Cooker, ME
Wilderness road dispersed camping
Day 34.
Joanna was looking for one more short hike and we decided to go on Long Trail to Maple Hill near Bennington VT. Weather was beautiful. We added a couple of miles  on one of our favorites: Appalachian Trail. Coffee at The Perfect Blend on Broad St in Waverly NY and driving on major highways for the rest of the day until Unadilla / I-88 / Oneonta KOA Journey campground (our first KOA and it was very good). We got a nice spot at the end of the campground and not between large campers/RVs.
Long Trail in VT…
…
Broad St in Waverly, NY
Day 35.
All day of highway driving with short stop for sunset and short walk at Elk Creek, Erie Bluffs State Park, PA. We arrived at Joanna’s friend’s house in Cleveland suburb in the evening.
Elk Creek…
…Erie Bluffs State Park, PA…
…
Day 36.
We spent half-a-day visiting Cuyahoga National Park, OH. A combination of easy walk through forested hills and creeks, and on  Cuyahoga River with a bit of history: Ohio & Erie Canal and Valley Railway (18th century), and industrial sites such as Jaite Paper Mill (early 20th century). 30th US National Park we have visited so far. We spent the rest of our time with friends.
We arrived in Charlottetown in quite intense rain. Joanna interogated rangers at the Visitor Center and we stopped at Water Prince Corner Shop for early dinner. Great seafood: island mussles and lobster roll. Rain slowed down enough for a walk around the neighbourhood. We crossed the island to the north side and took a spot at Cavendish campground in PEI National Park: closest to the beach and next to shelter to stay under roof if heavy rain returned. Campground was partially closed with just some campers. The hurricane was still a couple of days away.
St. Dunstan’s Basilica…
…
…Queen Street
Day 28.
Weather improved, time to visit all corners of Prince Edward Island National Park: Cavendish Beach, MacNeills Brook Beach, North Rustico Beach, Brackley Beach, Covehead Harbour Lighthouse, Cavendish Cliffs, back to Cavendish Beach, Dunelands and Oceanview Lookoff. Green Gables Heritage Place was already closed, so we just walked Haunted Woods Trail where we met nobody, but lonely fox making its rounds. It walked within a couple of feet without even acknowledging our presence. The hurricane was still 24 hours away, but weather was changing: red evening sky below low dark clouds, wind gusts and rushing waves. We moved to a different camping spot at Cavendish, perhaps 100m further inland, like it would make any difference.
North Rustico Harbour
Brackley Beach
…
Covehead Harbour Lighthouse
Brackley Beach
Oceanview, Cavendish
Cavendish Beach
Dunelands…
…
…Oceanview…
…
…Cavendish campground
Day 29.
Morning visit to Green Gables Heritage Place, Montgomery Park and Cavendish Cemetery (Cavendish is Avonlea in books about Anne). Late lunch at Carr’s Oyster Bar (recommended) in Stanley Bridge. Finally found the right place to try fresh local oysters (Piotr could not refuse tasting two). Followed by baked oysters and steamed clams.
Drove all the way to Thunder Cove Beach only to discover it was closed for visitors, just looked around. Took diferent local roads to go back. Weather was cleary getting more active: wind gusts, fast moving clouds, passing rains. We were looking for a place to overnight and Joanna found Dreamweavers Cottages and Vacation Homes (recommended) in North Rustico. Fully equipped cottage (kitchen, laundry etc) and very nice host. We parked away from trees and listened to wind gusts becoming stronger. Remnants of the hurricane (just wind and rain)Â passed over our heads at night.
