Day 71 & 72. After short visit at Haines Junction (Kluane NP) Visitor Information Centre, with supplies loaded, we drove short distance and settled quickly at Kathleen Lake CG (for two nights). With weather improved, mix of sun and clouds, we were ready for a hike. We decided summiting King’s Throne Peak was probably too much for that day, but hiked up to King’s Throne “seat”- bottom of the bowl below it. Trail starts easy at Kathleen Lake (near campground). It then turns into good workout on steep rocky slope, almost scramble with fading trail in places. Joanna again could not resist and hiked higher to see what’s on the other side of the mountain. Piotr just guessed – more mountains. Upon return, we relaxed on lake’s shore. Enjoyed long day with sunny weather to cook dinner. Piotr refreshed his skills chopping wood logs. It was good, well organized NP campground.
King’s Throne
Quite steep almost scramble in places
Flattens at destination (view from Joanna’s higher vantage point)
On the way down
Kathleen Lake
Kathleen Lake CG
Next day weather was mixed and hard to predict. We used the day for two short hikes. On Rock Glacier – a pile of frozen rocks, rather than a big chunk of ice like the other glaciers we visited. Interesting feature to explore, even in light rain. Then very easy, almost flat trail (old forest road) to St Elias Lake, enjoyable in better weather.
Rock Glacier…
…flowing into Dezadeash Lake
Dezadeash Lake
Trail to St Elias Lake
…
St Elias Lake
We left the final decision whether to go to Haines for the following morning.
Day 73. With rain in the forecast on the coast and car ferry sold-out, we decided to skip Haines, turn inland and drive around to Skagway. It was all day of slow driving watching mountains and valleys, rivers and lakes passing by – car tourism. We passed Whitehorse again (without stopping this time), but spent some time in Carcross. Important station on White Pass & Yukon Railway during gold rush. We liked the small town, now just tourist destination, visitor center, good coffee and pastries. We walked a bit on Carcross Desert (large dune, not true desert) – what a change after walking on glaciers. Plus short evening walk on Lake Bennett.
Carcross Desert
…
Lake Bennett
Carcross visitor center
White Pass & Yukon Railway
SS Tutshi Memorial
We settled for the night further along Klondike Hwy at almost empty Conrad CG on shore of Windy Arm of Tagish Lake. It is located on the grounds of long closed and dismantled copper mining operation.
Day 66. After short, morning hike to Crystalline Hills we were heading back to Chitina to the end of McCarthy Rd and then to Glennallen – we came that way. Just driving around Wrangell Mountains without much stopping. Weather was mixed, but we could see the high peaks: Blackburn (we saw its other side from airplane), Wrangell and Sanford, although their tops were in clouds. In Glennallen we ignored low fuel warning and continued to Gakona only to discover that gas stations there were closed. So we had to go back. Joanna was making phone calls from the road to find a place to stay in Gakona. Nothing worked, but one place (Snowshoe Haven Cabins in Gakona) called back with an offer: no cabins available, but we could rent an old house under renovation for the night. Very nice hosts. Bedrooms upstairs and kitchen/living room were already done, bathroom was still old. We had entire house for ourselves, good opportunity to regroup. Another case on this trip when interesting opportunity came along on the go.
Crystalline Hills
View from Crystalline Hills Trail
McCarthy Rd
Mt Blackburn from McCarthy Rd
End of McCarthy Rd in Chitina
Mt Blackburn, Willow Lake from Richardson Hwy
Day 67. Another day of driving – interesting, scenic Tok Cut-Off Highway to Nabesna Road to enter Wrangell Mountains, this time from north – spontaneous decision, as we liked this NP a lot. We talked to rangers at Slana Station, filled-up water containers, we had enough food. Nabesna Rd is first paved and then good gravel. Not much traffic and many camping options. We chose to stay at excellent Kendesnii Campground (NP). Like camping on the edge of taiga. Small lakes and mountain views everywhere. We had only a couple of neighbors – one was also Subaru camper. Enough time left for afternoon hike to Caribou Creek. To cook dinner we had to dress like winter time – temps dropped a few degrees below freezing at night and local mountaintops were dusted with snow in the morning. Not even the end of August and winter made its first move.
Caribou Creek Trail
Taiga all around
Kendesnii Campground
Days 68. We drove, after same hesitation, further up Nabesna Rd to Skookum Volcano trailhead and spent several hours going up and down the mountain. Steep trail to Skookum Volcano Pass with great colorful rock formations and view of Alaska Range. Good, mostly sunny weather, nice experience. We then drove to the end of drivable road (Subaru) to the site where Nabesca Mine used to be for evening view of Alaska Range. Our Forester got tested on not so good stretches of road and crossing streams. Back to Kendesnii Campground for another wintery night. Joanna tried to rent one of the backcountry cabins, but everything was booked (?). We were glad we came this way: nice scenery, interesting volcano hike with Dall sheep sightings and we liked relaxing camping in taiga despite freezing weather.
Good part of Nabesna Rd
Thors Pond
Trail…
…to Skookum Volcano Pass
Skookum Volcano
To go higher (Joanna)…
…or rest at the pass (Piotr)?
…
Alaska Range on the other side
Alaska Range at sunset from Nabesna Mine site
Not bad here, but it was bumpy ride before and road became impassable for us shortly beyond the sign
Crossing shallow streams is easy, but people sometimes get stuck in small, loose gravel lining the bottom
Day 69 and 70. Now it was time to go to Kluane NP. Two days of easy, but somewhat monotonous driving despite interesting scenery starting with short opening in clouds to view (base of massive) Mt Wrangell. First back on Nabesna Rd to Tok Cut-Off Hwy and then Alaska Hwy to nice Deadman Lake CG. We stopped in Tok for lunch at Fast Eddy’s Restaurant and to pick-up groceries (plus Denali Beer Variety Pack and Jagermeister) at Three Bears. Some small businesses already started shutting down for winter. We stopped in Tok earlier on the way to Alaska. We were lucky to get camping spot and had only little time to walk to Deadman Lake and on short nature trail. The following day, we crossed the border and continued on Alaska Hwy to Haines Junction where we rented (Airbnb) room in newly renovated small house with two bedrooms, modern shared living room and kitchen. Rainy and cold weather was a factor in deciding to stay there. Despite end of season hotels were full as everybody (campers) tried to stay indoors. Piotr showed his skills quickly starting fire in wood stove to warm the house (our host came later to start gas furnace). We spent the evening cooking, drinking beer and talking to French couple from Martinique, travelers (bikers) staying in the other bedroom.
We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on the overview map below) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.
The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).
It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.
We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.
Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.
We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.
Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.
Completed itinerary
Day
Destinations
Overnight
1
Jun
14
Fri
Harstad Park, Eau Claire River
IL-WI
Harstad CG
2
15
Sat
Voyageurs NP
MN
Woodenfrog CG
3
16
Sun
Voyageurs NP
MN
RiverFront Hotel, International Falls
4
17
Mon
Voyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PP
ON
Rushing River CG
5
18
Tue
Kenora, Anicinabe Park
ON
Kenora Traveloge
6
19
Wed
Trans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PP
MB
Trans Canada Hwy wild camping
7
20
Thu
Echo Valley PP
SK
Echo Valley CG
8
21
Fri
Echo Valley PP, Trans Canada Hwy
SK-AB
Tel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
9
22
Sat
Dinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PP
AB
Little Fish CG
10
23
Sun
Midland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell Museum
AB
Two Jack Main CG
11
24
Mon
Banff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, Banff
AB
Banff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
12
25
Tue
Banff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink Pots
AB
Lake Louise (hardsided) CG
13
26
Wed
Banff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little Beehive
AB
Lake Louise (softsided) CG
14
27
Thu
Yoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields Pkwy
Day 5. After we walked over to Cuauhtémoc station, we discovered the metro line was closed. Joanna was disappointed because she looked for and chose apartment close to metro. We walked to Balderas (next stop) and took Metro 1 and then Metro 2 to Catedral Metropolitana. First experience with public transportation – very good, frequent, efficient, but information often lacking, navigating the system requires fluency in moving with local crowd, as we learned during our visit. Part of huge Zócalo (main square) was fenced off for a future event. Cathedral, also huge, built over centuries in different styles using some material from pre-Hispanic temples, quite impressive outside and inside. Towers are leaning like many heavy buildings built on ancient lake island. Later, we searched for entrance to Palacio National, as it was open to public on that day, but we circled it in wrong direction and (free) tickets were gone already for the day.
Catedral Metropolitana
Recording tower tilting from vertical
Baroque
Zócalo
Calle Moneda to Zócalo and Catedral
Palacio National
We returned to Zócalo and interesting Templo Mayor ruins. It was the main pyramid temple of Mexica/Aztec in Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City), as usual built over time in several layers, with temples of war and rain gods at the top. Remains of the pyramid and some other structures from the old days have been excavated and restored. Museum has many interesting artifacts (from the site), many offerings were buried and survived above-ground demolition.
Templo Mayor, Catedral
Templo Mayor
Templo Mayor excavated ruins
Museo Templo Mayor
Sacrificial knifes
Tlaltecuhtli – Earth deity
«« Scroll to view more photos »»
Since we missed murals in Palacio National, we checked excellent Murales de la Secretaría de Educación Pública (Museo Vivo del Muralismo opened in 2024) with hundreds of murals by Diego Rivera and others, surrounding several courtyards on 3 levels. Signs and directions are confusing to reinforce the idea that people should get lost here (museo vivo) and find what they like by chance. We then walked around the neighborhood a bit looking for place to eat (some restaurants were already closing) and decided to stay at nearby Restaurante Catedral for dinner (Quesadillas Vegetarianas and Taquitos del Chef). On return to Cuauhtémoc (Uber – metro was not going to our station and we had not yet figured out bus routes) we stopped at Tiendas 3B to get some basics for breakfast. We saw many food vendors around the city, but we had not yet found any better-stocked grocery stores near our accommodation.
Museo Vivo del Muralismo
Luis Nishizawa: The image of man
D.A. Siqueiros: Patricians and Patrice
Diego Rivera: Distribution of arms
D. Rivera: Día de los Muertos Fiesta
…
Day 6. After days of intense sightseeing, rather than visiting more museums and historical places, we decided to spend the day just walking around. It would be hard to retrace our route precisely. We started with la Romita, once independent pre-Hispanic village, and then strayed in Roma Norte, our neighborhood, further away from home than on the first evening. Our strategy for this entire trip was to try to stroll smaller, side-streets and as many parks as possible to break more tiring (mega) city walking.
We looked-up grocery stores on map – this time we came across small, but well stocked Sumesa Colima. We looped around Plaza Río de Janeiro with small park and David statue fountain. Mercado Medellín in Roma Sur was next – now we knew where to get fruits and veggies (other stuff was of lesser interest to us on a short trip). People were friendly and relaxed, none of the hustles we experienced in markets in some other parts of the World. We saw food tours there, but Piotr was not ready for lunch at the market. Continued into La Condesa (or was it Hipodromo?), even nicer and more posh neighborhood, and rested in very pleasant Parque México – walking, sitting, watching people walking with dogs and pond with ducks and geese.
Plaza de Romita
David, Plaza Río de Janeiro
Mercado Medellín
Parque México
…
…
Most of the time on this trip we would buy fruits and veggies, baked goods and other food items stopping in different places as we were walking around, buying something here and something there, rather than making special grocery shopping trips. We found some items in local mini-markets, a lot of stuff at markets, learned how to find good bakeries and coffee shops. Non-diary food is hard to find – everything is con queso or con crema. Fortunately lactose-free milk is available everywhere. Here we shopped at La Espiga Panificadora to get bread and pastries for supper and breakfast.
There are many restaurants in Mexico City, hard to choose on the go, if you have only time for a few. Lunch at El Pez Azul (recommended). Simple street-side table and tasteful seafood. After lunch, we started walking along Ave Insurgenes Sur and somehow found our way home, stopping in Parque España (even more dogs around here). Piotr had to stop at the Sumesa again to get more sweets (Abrazos con Crema) and of all things Jamon Iberico for Joanna.
Avenida Amsterdam
Parque España
Calle Merida – Calle Tabasco
Day 7. We spent almost all day at Museo Nacional de Antropología and it was worth it. The museum covers a lot of ground from Olmecs and Maya to Aztecs. There are many interesting artifacts and some models (reconstructions) from different cultures. After one-day and rather fast visit it all got mixed up in our heads, as we focused more on overall picture rather than discerning historical and cultural details. We have more than 600 photos to sort through. We took Uber to get there faster in the morning and stayed until it closed. We watched dancers and voladores performing in front of the museum, and then walked into Polanco (upscale neighbourhood) checking out restaurants (on expensive side). We chose Taquería El Califa (recommended) for dinner (Gaona, Taco de Pastor, Costra Gaona, Quesadilla Champiñones Portobello, Frijoles de la Olla). Cafeteria-style, fast service, good food, not expensive. Uber home.
Museo Nacional de Antropología
Sala Mexica/Aztec
Sala Costa del Golfo
Olmecs
Street performance
Voladores
«« Scroll to view more photos »»
«« Scroll to view more photos »»
Day 8: Mexico City and Teotihuacan
We decided to go on organized tour with Amigo Tours (recommended), so we could stop at two other sites on the way to pyramids. Uber to group meeting point at Miga Cafe . First was Tlatelolco – second Aztec city in central valley of Mexico. We looked at the ruins (similar to Templo Major), 16th century church (built with temple stones) and the earliest college in the Americas (Colegio de Santa Cruz) from large Plaza de las Tres Culturas (pre-Colombian, colonial and modern Mexican). Tragic events took place here not only during conquest: in 1968 student protests were suppressed in military massacre.
Next we went to Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe, major religious and pilgrimage site in Mexico where Virgin Mary is believed to appear to indigenous peasant Juan Diego. It is a large complex with old and modern basilicas, several chapels (mass for Polish pilgrims in one of them), including one on the hill above basilica (great views) where apparitions took place. Many religious and souvenir shops, restaurants and services outside. Not crowded on week-day, we had good look at everything and nice stroll over and on both sides of the hill.
Colegio de Santa Cruz
Iglesia Santiago Tlatelolco
Tlatelolco
Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe
…
Capilla del Pocito
Next was obligatory touristy stop at souvenir market, but it included good explanations (weaving, pottery, stonework) and tasting drinks made from agave (pulque, mezcal and tequila), and then lunch. We had to wait 45 min for our (essentially pre-cooked) food – way too long.
Finally we got to Teotihuacan (Zona Arqueológica). Huge ancient city was long abandoned when Aztec arrived. They gave it its name (place where gods were born) and called pyramids of Sun and Moon, but the civilization that built the city 2000 years ago remains unknown and it was discovered that rain gods were worshipped here, not Sun and Moon. City grew and flourished thanks to control and processing of obsidian.
We started exploration in Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl with some well preserved frescos – interesting and quite rare in ruined ancient cities. Next was impressive Moon Pyramid at the beginning of Avenue of the Dead. The guide gave very informative and engaging explanations, but a little lengthy. We briefly stopped at the largest Sun Pyramid where the tour ended (2 hours at archaeological site). We decided to stay an hour longer and return by bus on our own. Unfortunately by the time we got to Ciudadela and Templo de Quetzalcóatl the temple was already shutting down and we were not allowed to visit it up close. Still it was an interesting walk and we saw areas not included in the tour. Bus back to Indios Verde and Metro 3 to Balderas. Stopped at small Panadería Chapultepec (rolls and more pastries) on the way home.
Calzada de los Muertos, Pirámide del Sol
Pirámide de la Luna
Pirámide del Sol
Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados
Conjunto de los Jaguares
…
Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl
Edificios superpuestos
Calzada de los Muertos, from right: Ciudadela, Pirámide del Sol, Pirámide de la Luna
Day 9-11: Mexico City
Day 9. Walking day in Centro again. This time we were not in a hurry and “found” Mercado Juarez just behind closed Cuauhtémoc metro station – came back in the evening to buy food. First destination of the day: Parque de la Ciudadela and Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela. The art market was surprisingly peaceful. There are many stalls packed-full with souvenirs dominated by bright, vibrant colors often emanating from clusters of objects, like small animal figurines, arranged in large numbers on shelves. Again enjoyed very relaxed interaction with sellers. Bought three small souvenirs for ourselves (cat from pictured collection, of course, and two small tiles).
And time came for colorful and large mural “Dream of a Sunday Afternoon at Alameda Central Park” at dedicated Museo Mural Diego Rivera. We spent some time there reading the explanation of who is who, rather unusual way to learn history. Then real walk across Alameda Central, the oldest park in the city and apparently in Americas, with many fountains, wide marble alleys (how they walk there when it rains?) and very clean (saw several maintenance crews).
We strolled past palaces, museums, peeked into old post office and had lunch in beautiful Casa de los Azulejos (Sanborns Madero Restaurante). Looked at modernist Torre Latinoamericana and came back to Palacio de Bellas Artes – Art Nouveau outside, beautiful Art Deco inside.
We walked to Plaza Garibaldi to end the day. A little disappointing – many mariachi bands waiting, but almost no clients and little music. We still had not figured out buses, so Uber back home. We quickly walked over to Mercado Juarez to buy bread and pastries (no time for anything else) as it closed (literally) at 7 PM – we had to find our way through stall-labyrinth to small side-gate to escape.
Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
Estación Hidalgo Metrobús, Museo Mural Diego Rivera
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Casa de los Azulejos
Sanborns Madero Restaurante
J.C. Orozco: Omnisciencia
Art Deco Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio Postal
Plaza Garibaldi
Day 10. Relaxing day in southern neighborhoods and many forms of transport. Metrobus 3 and Metro 2 to Tasqueña, then Train 1 (Tren Ligero) to Xochimilco – less polished neighborhood where we visited market, checked-out a few boat docks (trajinera embarcaderos) and settled on Salitre. Very nice 1-hour slow ride on canals from Aztec times between houses and chinampas – floating gardens and fields. Lunch: tlacoyos (thick tortillas with beans and chicken) delivered to our boat from restaurant on one of the islands.
Tren Ligero back to Las Torres and Uber to Plaza de la Conchita in Coayacan. Very nice neighborhood with several plazas, parks and houses of Cortez (one for La Malinche, his native mistress), Frida Kahlo and Trotsky. Had coffee and hot chocolate, sat at Plaza Coyoacán (Jardin Centenarian) and Plaza Jardin Hidalgo, visited San Juan church, found Frida mural. Finally, walked through Mitikah Centro Comercial to Metro 3 (Coyoatan to Balderas). Stopped again at Mercado Juarez Cuauhtémoc to buy fruits and veggies. Joanna cooked dinner at home.
Xochimilco
Plaza Coyoacán
Casa de Hernán Cortés, Jardín Plaza Hidalgo
Parroquia San Juan Bautista
Frida Kahlo mural
Mitikah Centro Comercial
Day 11. We jumped on first RTP bus heading to Bosque de Chapultepec. Did not really have enough time for everything and decided to skip Museo Nacional de Historia Castillo de Chapultepec. Instead we walked full circle in the park around the hill, starting with visit at Museo de Arte Moderno: sculpture garden and all galleries where we finally saw a few Frida’s paintings. Then fountains, monuments, archaeological sites (aqueduct, baths), lakes and squirrels, followed by short walk and coffee in Polanco. It was quite slow and lazy day until it was time to go to the airport. We ran for RTP bus, picked-up our backpacks and took Uber to airport, enough time left for late lunch. We landed at ORD almost at midnight ready for cold weather (it was really cold in Chicago: down to -20ºC, when we enjoyed Mexican sun: mid 20s ºC), quick Lift ride and we were back home.
Altar a la Patria, Bosque de Chapultepec
Museo de Arte Moderno
Avenida de la Reforma
During our time in Mexico City we traveled northeast from the center (Roma Norte) to Teotihuacan and another time south to Xochimilco across the city (straight-line distance of ca. 40 plus 20 km) and realized how big the 20-million people metropolitan area is. Great majority of buildings are small, but densely packed. With some effort and planning it looks like park all around though, very walkable, We liked it. We were surprised how different each district was, the city felt like a conglomerate of separate towns (which they were in the past), each with its own main square, parks, markets etc. and distinct character. Combination of public transport and Uber (fast, inexpensive) made moving around easy.
It was again a last minute decision to go, facilitated by direct flights from Chicago to Mexico City (Aeromexico) and easy to work tourist infrastructure. We had a plan what to see, but made detailed decisions on day-to-day basis. We split our time between Puebla (travel day plus 2.5 days) and Mexico City (6.5 days). Joanna pre-arranged both accommodations a few days before the trip opting for locations either within walking distance or public transport to at least some of the local destinations. We used Estrella Roja to get from MEX to Puebla Paseo Destino and eBus back to Mexico City El Ángel. We used Uber (12 times) and in Mexico City also public transport : metro, metrobus and RTP buses, light train – inexpensive (free for seniors). All the transportation worked very well: convenient and fast. We got stuck in traffic only a couple of times, not too bad. Museum tickets are inexpensive, sometimes entrance is free for teachers and/or seniors. We spent ca. $1500 on everything except food which is inexpensive. We had access to kitchen to make morning coffee, prepare breakfast and supper, but had main meal each day somewhere in town. Visiting local cafés, panaderias and mercados was part of our trip. We did not do any nature hikes this time, but street-walked 10 km a day on average visiting different neighborhoods, many museums and archaeological sites.
Days 1-2: Puebla
After somewhat delayed flight, we took bus from MEX airport to Puebla Paseo Destino and then Uber to The Dear hostel (recommended). Buses directly from the terminal are frequent and we did not have to wait. Despite late hour (almost midnight) our kind host was waiting for us. And he took us to local taco stand for late night snack. The place was secure, very clean, well maintained and equipped: shared kitchen, dining room, living room and bedrooms upstairs (with private or shared bathroom – ours was private). The hostel is located in Centro Histórico.
Despite slow morning we managed to see quite a bit on full day of walking. Puebla is Hispanic city founded in 1531: colorful, richly decorated houses, churches, Talavera pottery and tiles. We started up Calle 16 de Septiembre towards Zócalo, but first stop was at Casa de la Cultura to visit Biblioteca Palafoxiana: oldest library in the Americas founded in mid 17th century. Then it was already lunch-time and time for famous chocolatey mole poblano. We followed recommendations and settled in El Mural de los Poblanos (recommended).
Calle 16 de Septiembre
…
Biblioteca Palafoxiana
…
El Mural de los Poblanos (evening photo)
Pollo mole poblano
Next longer stop was at Basilica Cathedral. After a loop around the main plaza we walked along Avenida 5 de Mayo and other streets to Mercado la Victoria and Ex Convento de Santa Rosa (museum) – the place where mole poblano was invented, and beyond. This part of town looks like never ending street market. Puebla has many churches, most in ornate baroque style, we managed to visit only several. Our next main destination was Capilla del Rosario at Templo de Santo Domingo.
Basilica Cathedral
…
Palacio Municipal de Puebla
Museo Universitario
Ex Convento de Santa Rosa, first mole poblano kitchen…
…and ethnographic museum
Templo Conventual de Santa Mónica
Avenida 6 Oriente
Templo de Santo Domingo, Capilla del Rosario
Capilla del Rosario – New Spanish Baroque.
We then made a loop a few blocks west to Teatro Principal, Casa de Alfeñique, Callejón de los Sapos, Cathedral and Calle 16 de Septiembre back to our hostel. With a short side “excursion” to supermarket Soriana to get groceries. Historical center is compact and very nice and easy to walk.
Teatro Principal
Casa de Alfeñique
Artist studios
Barrio del Artista
Callejón de los Sapos
Calle 16 de Septiembre
Day 3: Cholula
It is just 12-km ride (we considered a bus but took inexpensive Uber) from Puebla to Cholula – city with long pre-Hispanic history hidden underneath later structures. Cholula, some claim, is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Americas. Cortez destroyed its 400 temples and replaced them with 365 churches (legend not quite true, but there are many). We stopped briefly at Museo Regional to get introductory info and soon entered Zona Arqueológica of Tlachihualtepetl (Great Pyramid). It is the largest pyramid by volume ever built, but you cannot really see it, as it is mostly unexcavated. Typical for Mexican pre-Hispanic temples, it has several nested layers built over time. We spent some time investigating exposed/rebuilt parts of the pyramid (unfortunately archeological tunnels have been closed since Covid) and then walked to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios on top of the “hill”, with great views of the city. Cholula is one of Pueblos Magicos, which we imagined as small towns, but they are large cities. As we walked over the hill to the other side we were in different world. As the history goes the Great Pyramid was abandoned for a while by the time of the Spanish conquest, as the old city moved to the area where the main plaza is today. Nothing (visible) survived there from pre-Hispanic times.
Tlachihualtepetl (Great Pyramid)
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios
View from top on excavated base of the pyramid
View towards Zócalo
Convento de San Gabriel Arcángel
We parked at Restaurante Santa Clara (recommended) on Plaza de la Concordia (Zócalo de San Pedro) for traditional Mexican dishes (Pipián Rojo con Carne de Cerdo and Mixiotes de Res – very tasty). Relaxing and waiting for the gates to interesting Capilla Real de Naturales next to Convento de San Gabriel Arcángel to open. We then walked the streets around town center stoping at Panaderia La Herencia (rolls and sweets for breakfast), Molienda de Cacao to get cacao tostado grains and Caffé Excelto to try Mexican (Veracruz) coffee. We returned to Zócalo and took Uber back to Puebla.
View from Plaza de la Concordia
Pipián Rojo con Carne de Cerdo
Mixiotes de Res
Capilla Real de Naturales
Convento de San Gabriel Arcángel
Capilla Real de Naturales
Day 4: Puebla
We had only half a day left for Puebla – we walked over to very nice El Patio de los Azulejos which used to be a part of religious school (now small museum) and then spent the rest of the time at (private) Museo Amparo (recommended) with well organized collections from pre-Hispanic cultures through colonial to modern exhibits in a beautiful palace, and more good coffee and hot chocolate at museum roof-terrace. Puebla (Centro Histórico) has real feel of an old town. It was easy and pleasant walking around in good weather, some crowded streets, but everybody looked relaxed, not much car traffic. Piotr started to learn Spanish words. Is this a sign of things to come?
El Patio de los Azulejos
…
Museo Amparo
Courtyard
Puebla from museum’s roof terrace
…
Museo Amparo
«« Scroll to view more photos »»
Picked-up our backpacks from hostel, took Uber to Paseo Destino and bus to Mexico City El Ángele (3 hrs). The travel was not too interesting, watching villages and neighborhoods along busy highway. We got a few distant views of Popocatépetl and Iztaccihuatl between clouds. Then short Uber ride to our apartment on Calle Guaymas. It was already evening, so we picked up some bread rolls for breakfast from street vendor and run around the block looking for a place to eat. Piotr chose El Rancho Birrieria for traditional birria (stew soup) and beer.
Completed itinerary
