Category: John Muir Trail

Mt Whitney (4421 m) day started shortly after midnight – we heard voices of quite a few hikers moving up the trail to catch sunrise on the summit. After breakfast we were on the move too, at 9 am. Some people already came down from the summit.  The trail is not particularly difficult or steep, just steady going up 900 m. In addition, last 3 km and 350 m ascent was without backpacks (left them at trail junction). To Piotr final approach looked somewhat reminiscent of Ben Nevis (hiking from north face),  grander scale of course – both summits are flat piles of stones with precipice on one side. We were hiking in full sun and in comfortable temperatures, but wind gusts were getting very strong. We watched big plum of smoke developing from very recent fire. Distant sky looked hazy (smoke), as most of the days – more so during second half of our hike (even more smoke in Onion and Owens and Valleys). All what looked before like big mountains were now below us. We spent an hour on the summit which was deserted (all but a few people hiked down already) and very windy. Finally, we had cell connection to check messages and e-mails, and call friend – we always tried to keep our friends and family informed about our whereabouts.

We walked down back to the trail junction to collect our backpacks, crossed over Trail Crest (4166 m) couple hundred meters away and started descending to Trail Camp Tarn on 99 switchbacks. When we arrived late in the afternoon many camp sites were already occupied and we spent quite a bit of time looking for something suitable for our tent and at least partially shielded from wind coming down from the crest. Joanna preferred less windy spots under rock walls, but Piotr did not like a threat of puddle or stream under the tent in case of rain nor driving stakes into granite. One strong wind gust caught us just as we were unfolding our tent, we managed to hold on to the sail, but next gust bent one of aluminum posts (remained usable). Once everything got nailed down we were OK. It was clear our larger tent was not suitable to camp on the summit – yes, crazy idea to dry-camp there crossed our minds. We were rewarded in the morning with nice views towards Mt Whitney, although its summit was not visible from this spot. Joanna cooked last backpacker’s breakfast and coffee, and we were on the way to the trailhead. Nice scenery with lakes and Lone Pine Creek, greener and greener. At a rest stop Joanna lost her favorite beanie hat which she had on all treks, on four continents. Many more people on this side of the mountain, often on day-hikes. We were greeted and cheered on arrival – finishing JMT is considered quite an accomplishment.

We ate big lunch at the store at Whitney Portal and started asking around to hitch a ride to Lone Pine. Not difficult, but took longer than in Onion Valley. We, and another hiker, got a ride all the way to Dow Villa Hotel where we stayed for the night. In the past, many actors stayed at the hotel when filming at nearby Alabama Hills. We ate, did laundry and shopped to get ready for return to Chicago.

View south to west from Mt Whitney summit

View south to west from Mt Whitney summit

View west to north from Mt Whitney summit

View west to north from Mt Whitney summit

Mt Whitney teeth (summit out of sight)

Mt Whitney teeth (summit out of sight)

We started the final 6-day 48-mile section well rested and relaxed. The plan was to do it in 7 days. With stable weather pattern and a spare day to wait out bad weather, lighter backpacks and good physical conditions we were ready for Mt Whitney. We were already acclimatized, so going quickly up above 3000 m from 1200 m (Independence) was not a problem. Mt Whitney was of course in our plans, but we never made it into ambition satisfying goal. Just as we never intended to go faster or cover longer daily distances – we could in case of emergency, but it was not necessary. Joanna was hoping we could start moving earlier in the morning, but it did not work on the trail.

We worried about return to high mountains from low elevation of Independence with heavier = resupplied backpacks. Owner of Independence Inn drove us (and another hiker) to the trailhead. We had plenty of time to get ready the day before, so we took off earlier. First half of the day we were hiking through familiar landscape. It was actually fun to see everything from opposite direction. On the way down we selected possible campsites and convenient points to refill water bottles. None of this was necessary: we forgot to get water, jumped over Kearsarge Pass and passed “just in case” campsites, and kept going with ease and further than planned. Our bodies were already well trained, our backpacks and food rations optimized, and we were after full day of rest. We started saving time again – it was important to have some time reserve to wait out bad weather for Mt Whitney day. We passed Bullfrog Trail junction where we camped 3 nights earlier. Then down to Bubbs Creek  and up the creek to Upper Vidette Meadow (which looked more like forrest). 9.9-mile day with 1000 m total ascent. We quickly found nice campsite at the creek and had sunny time to relax.

Bubbs Creek Spa, Pedicure & Nails

Bubbs Creek Spa, Pedicure & Nails

In the following 3 days we hiked to the base of Mt Whitney,  just above Guitar Lake. We continued along Bubbs Creek and then up to Forester Pass, the highest pass on the trail (4009 m)  gaining 1000 m. Some switchback sectors were steep, but somehow did not feel extremely difficult. We made it to Lake 12250 and reached the pass later than any other hikers that day. Weather was nice on the north side, but at the pass we saw dark clouds spreading to the south so we quickly descended to Tyndall Creek. Scenery around Forester Pass looked quite “high altitude” = bare rocks all around. Camping at the lake before pass (considered in case we got tired early) would be difficult, just piles of rocks everywhere, and once we started going downhill  we continued to second of two lakes on Tyndall Creek below Diamond Mesa. We found good spot, but exposed and wind started to pick-up. It was the highest campsite of the trip – 3730 m. The Sun was still high so we climbed down the rocks to waterfront, washed and refilled water bottles. Joanna was cooking and Piotr was attaching our tent to Mother Earth, well after dark. Wind gusts were strong and we had some rain at night; it all cleared overnight. Still it was one of our favorite campsites, near lakes and with nobody else for miles in any direction.

Next day was down Tyndall Creek, up to Bighorn Plateau and Lake (dry) where we had first view of Mt Whitney (not too scary from this angle), down to Wallace Creek, up to Young Ridge. We saw helicopter search and rescue near Shepherd Pass Trail junction, did not learn any details, but decided to refresh our knowledge of hand emergency signals when we get home – we did not send any to avoid confusion, just walked down steadily to show we were not seeking help.  We arrived at Wallace Creek quite early and decided to continue to dry-camp at Young Ridge. We brought extra 2 L juice bottle from Independence (for dry-camping) – we filled everything up at the creek. It was very good decision, we were ahead of schedule one full day again and camping at Young Ridge saddle was most relaxing of all: sunny, warm, beach-like sandy, interestingly lit forest, evening and morning. No neighbors of course. And we made next day just 6 miles long: down to Whitney Creek, up to Timberline Lake, Guitar Lake and a small tarn above it. Storm was brewing when we arrived at Guitar Lake but Joanna decided to push on. Weather patterns during our hike  were always confusing and we just kept going most of the time, but this time it looked really bad. High mountains held the storm just long enough for us to pitch our tent, the only time we did not really care where the spot was (we discovered much better spots later). It rained, lightings and thunders, and then it stopped just before dinner and sunset. Very lucky ! It was a beautiful place, with tarns and view of Guitar lake and high mountains. We were all certain of good weather for coming days and Mt Whitney summit.

View from Forester Pass

View from Forester Pass

Waiting out storm at tarn above Guitar Lake

Waiting out storm at tarn above Guitar Lake

Hiking in the second half of the 10-day section got more intense – we crossed four high passes in five days, and stayed quite a bit above 3000 m.  It was also becoming easier with half of the food already gone and Piotr taking some weight from Joanna. As we were getting closer to next resupply we started supplementing daily rations from reserves. Getting up before 7 am and waiting with most morning activities until Sun comes-up from behind mountains to keep us warm worked best. We were moving one full day ahead of our plan and we decided to use it for extra rest day in Independence, our next resupply stop – in retrospect, it was a very good idea !

Upper Palisade Lake is at 3320 m, so crossing 3688 m Mather Pass on 8.2-mile day looked easy, 400 m up and 600 m down. But somehow we both felt it was the most difficult pass on our route. Perhaps some fatigue was setting in.

We were gaining altitude hiking through rocky landscape above Palisade Lakes and tree-line, then on quite steep switchbacks before Mather Pass. Downhill switchbacks on the other side were also steep and landscape looked barren, even with some tarns in Upper Basin at the base of the pass where we stopped for longer break. South Fork Kings River flows from the lakes/tarns in this area and we continued down along its valley until it was time to stop for the night (without going up).

Next day we crossed Pinchot Pass, two-step 600 m ascent with relaxing flat middle part along Lake Marjorie. On descent along Woods Creek to Twin Lakes we talked to park ranger about possible campsites on the lower of the lakes, but in the end we parked at small tarn above them – to save time as we wanted to spend the rest of the sunny day relaxing. Water in the tarn was drinkable, but also warm to rinse ourselves and for minimalistic laundry (all no-soap). In the morning we continued hiking down Woods Creek, dropping 700 m, only to regain 500 m in the afternoon. We stayed at Dollar Lake, nice but with part of camping area closed for restoration and remaining options not too good. In retrospect, we should had continued to Arrowhead Lake, even if it stretched the day’s distance well above 9 miles. We now entered JMT section very popular with short-distance backpackers (coming via side trails).

We passed Arrowhead Lake next morning and walked rather slowly along beautiful Rae Lakes (definitely more hikers in this area), before hiking up to Glen Pass – Joanna’s favorite pass, with great views all along the way. The original plan was to leave JMT and push on to Kearsarge Lakes to make the following day shorter  – we wanted to have all afternoon and evening in motel in Independence to eat, shower and pack resupplies. Now with extra rest day in Independence we were not in big hurry. Coming down from Glen Pass we saw lake/tarn with water, but when we later started looking for campsite, there was no water available anywhere. We had no choice, but to walk pass Kearsarge trail junction to Bullfrog Lake trail junction and small stream. It was getting late, so we stayed there. Kearsarge (upper) trail  was our original direction, but we knew there was no water there until Kearsarge Lakes (too far that day).

Glen Pass looking north

Glen Pass looking north, down from where we came from

Glen Pass looking south

Glen Pass looking south, down where we are heading

Next day we walked past Bullfrog Lake and above Kearsarge Lakes to Kearsarge Pass, very nice scenery, and then down to Onion Valley trailhead and paved road. More lakes and more people day-hiking. Joanna in no time found friendly hikers who took us to Independence, 13-mile impressive winding road down to valley bottom.

We arrived one day earlier and there were no rooms available at Independence Inn where we had reservation and where we sent resupply – package was waiting. We stayed one night at Courthouse Motel and second night at Independence Inn, both very good small local businesses (recommended). We “raided” both (gas station) stores and were able to gather some food, ate very good tacos from food truck and 12-in subs (enough for two meals each). Both motels are backpacker friendly, have laundry service and offer shuttle back to the trailhead. It was very hot down in the valley (35°C vs comfortable twenty in the mountains the day before) and the sky was hazy because of smoke from wild fires somewhere else. Next day we were hiking back up the mountains via Kersarge Pass (next post).

Kearsarge Pass

Kearsarge Pass looking towards Kearsarge Lakes and Bullfrog Lake