Category: Europe

The weather was really good and it was an easy decision to hike Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg (recommended). We drove past Fort William to Inverlochy and took a side road going around aluminum smelter, but the road was gated and we were not sure how serious the sign about the gate being closed was. We knew we were coming back late and did not want to take any risk of being stuck there after hours. To save time we decided not to explore alternatives to get to parking spot higher up along the trail. We decided to do what hikers do best:  walk, adding couple km for the day. We were at the North Face trailhead parking  lot in Torlundy around 9 am. The parking lot was actually full, with some people camping around it. Surprisingly we saw only few people on the trail. Avoiding possible crowds on the main trail (Mountain Path) was part of the decision to hike this route. Of course it is also much more interesting and scenic. The trail starts very easy and gains altitude steadily all the way to Carn Mor Dearg (1220 m). The views opened in all directions. We descended a bit before crossing Carn Mor Dearg Arete and final ascent to Ben Nevis (1345 m). The last stretch was more difficult with no obvious trail and many large boulders to go around. Navigation was not difficult, with marker posts on top well visible.  GPS was showing we were near the trail, but the trail itself often was not obvious. Parts of the last segment  (1 km, 300 m ascent) were quite steep. The summit is flat. Most hikers were already gone, but a few, like us, were still coming up. We met Polish hikers. We just stumbled around looking in all directions.

Ben Nevis summit

Rather than returning the same way, we decided to take different route down:  Mountain Path to Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe and around the massif to Allt a’Mhullim, shortcut across the valley and back to North Face car park. The descent was easy, quiet and at the end with no people in sight. We took advantage of long day to hike 20 km/1500 m total ascent loop at comfortable pace. We returned to Signal Rock after 11 pm, quite tired.

Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg (20 km)

North Face trailhead-Carn Mor Dearg-Carn Mor Dearg Arete-Ben Nevis- Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe-Allt a’Mhullim-North Face trailhead. 20 km, 50-1345 masl, 1500 m total ascent.
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The weather improved and we could see Ben More well, but it was too late to hike it because it was time to move on to Glencoe. We stayed most of the day on smaller, quiet roads with two ferry crossings: from Fishnish to Lochaline and from Ardgour to Corran. We visited Duart Castle on the way. Section of A82 to Ballachulish Bridge was quite busy. We stopped in Ballachulish for info and lunch at Visitor Centre, and to buy groceries at Co-Op. Signal Rock Cottage was our next base, self-catering again. We arrived early enough for a few loops on Signal Rock trails before dinner.

Signal Rock (4.5 km)

Signal Rock loop from Signal Rock Cottages. 4.5 km, 100 m total ascent.
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Our primary hikes planned on Mull were coastal trail to Carsaig Arches and Ben Mor. On day 4, weather was so and so (clouds, some passing rain) and we decided to go to Carsaig Arches (recommended). We were lucky to arrive early enough to find parking on tiny lot at the trailhead. The rest was just rumbling along the coast, up and down piles of rocks. We really enjoyed walking on volcanic rocks and dark gray beaches exposed by low tide. It was nice hike, we spent pretty much all day there.

Carsaig Arches (13 km)

Carsaig trailhead-Arches, return same way. 13 km, 200 m total ascent.
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Carsaig Arches

The following day we made a desperate attempt to hike Ben More, we drove to the trailhead: with heavy fog and occasional rain we decide it was not worth it. We drove around Mull to Tobermory instead (via Salem and Dervaig on the way back). Slow driving on narrow local roads was actually very pleasant experience. Many road segments were scenic even in not so good weather. The scenery had some feel of remoteness, perhaps because we met only few cars and people. We stopped several times to look for sea otters, but no luck. We came back to Ardtun in the evening, but by that point we knew it was not going to get really dark.