Category: Canada

Day 87.

Slow rolling through towns/cottages along the coast from Seal Bay Campground to Campbell River. Slow, but relaxing and we could see how people live around here. And then inland along Upper Campbell and Buttle Lakes to Strathcona Provincial Park. Two short hikes: Karst Creek and Wild Ginger Trails. We settled at Ralph River Campground with plenty of time for cooking, camp fire and meandering walk on Buttle Lake shore until sunset. All very quiet, not too many visitors.

Day 88.

All day to explore Myra Creek area of Strathcona Provincial Park. We first drove to the end of Buttle Lake, crossed Thelwood Creek and visited (short trail) Lower Myra Falls: multiple small cascades over rock steps flowing down into the lake. We then continued to the end of public Western Mine Rd, parked there and hiked up to Upper Myra Falls on slightly longer trail. Cheered every big tree still standing along the way. On the way back, we stopped briefly at Lupin Falls and returned to Comox via faster Hwy 19. Piotr insisted we stayed in town near the repair shop rather than camping to deal with car repair as quickly in the morning as possible. Joanna found a nice, modern and well equipped apartment on Airbnb.

Day 89.

Tuesday started with visit to car glass shop. All went smoothly. Still had better part of the day to visit Forbidden Plateau/Mt Washington part of Strathcona Provincial Park. Walked very nice 13 km “lake” loop from Paradise Meadows: Battleship, Lady, Croteau and Helen Mackenzie Lakes. Back for the night to our Comox Airbnb.

Day 90.

We were heading west to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. We could not resist and stopped at Cathedral Grove (old growth stands of Douglas Fir and other trees) to walk through another wet, green and mossy temperate rainforest (MacMillan Provincial Park). We decided to stay at quality Surf Junction Campground’s more remote Sunny’s Loop (very popular National Park campground was full). Community Building where we cooked meals (it rained at times) and showers are located in the loop. We arrived early and had several spots to choose from. We spent the rest of the day in Ucluelet on Wild Pacific Trail and beaches (Terrace and Big).

Day 91.

More rainforest in the morning (Trail B) and then ranger’s walk in beach tidal zone near Kwisitis Visitor Centre. Well spent hour. The rest of the day was for exploring various beaches: Long, Wickaninnish, Lismer, South, Florencia Bay. Returned to Surf Junction Campground.

We spent more time on the Island than we planned, but weather was good and we enjoyed change of scenery after spending time traveling across high mountains and glaciers, taiga and tundra. Now it was walking in temperate rain forests with old stands of Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir many hundred years old, and visiting rocky shores and beaches on the Pacific coast. Ocean breeze, atmosphere changing quickly between sunny, cloudy, fogy and rainy (nothing extreme) – both ecosystems have mysterious, fairy tale look.

We spent good amount of time finding and photographing things on sand, rocks and in tidal pools. Piotr had nice conversation with another photographer doing the same.

More photos

Day 92.

Last day in Canada and we definitely felt we were heading home now, almost 4000 km away. Pacific Rim, Alberini and Island Highways to Nanaimo with short stops at Kennedy Lake and Sproat Lake Petroglyphs, lunch at The Clam Bucket in Port Alberni (clam chowder and clams & mussels bucket with grilled baguettes – very good). Joanna tried to find whales from Nanaimo (Duke Point) to Vancouver (Tsawwassenn) Ferry, but weather turn rainy and visibility bad. When we arrived two hours later, it was already 8 pm – heavy rain and dark. Suddenly all drivers were in big hurry like there was a big city nearby. It took Piotr some patient and careful driving, and Joanna quick navigation decisions to get us to our Surrey Airbnb.

Day 82.

We stayed on local roads for a while to get back to Rt 97 (Cariboo Hwy) and then short detour to “The Chasm” Ecological Reserve: ice age melt water cut through and exposed many layers of old lava flows. Short walk in pine forest around it. Next, Marble Canyon and series of lakes along Rt 99. This is Canada, mountains and/or lakes are always everywhere. When we approached Lillooet scenery changed dramatically – Frasier River was flowing through semi-desert. And it was hot, at least by our last Alaska reference standard. Then another change – to steep mountains covered with forest as we started crossing Coast Range. Road was winding and traffic was brisk, not too many opportunities to stop and enjoy views. Driving down on patchy roads through small towns/villages was relaxing. We wanted to stay close, but not in Whistler itself = Nairn Falls CG just off Rt 99.

Day 83.

Whistler is nice, but touristy, not overwhelmingly though and no problem getting tickets for gondolas. We went on 4-gondola plus one chair lift excursion to Blackcomb Peak and Whistler Mountain, but hiking Half Note Trail around Whistler Mt was the event of the day – 360° view of surrounding mountain ranges and last sightings of glaciers on our trip – beautiful. Lazy hike turned into a run at the end as we almost missed last gondola. We had to come back via Blackcomb Peak – direct gondola to Whistler Mountain closed for the season that day. Grocery shopping and we landed at private, well managed Whistler RV Park. We stay away from RV campgrounds as they are usually densely packed with big campers, not quite compatible with our camping style. It was OK.

Day 84.

Next two days were organized around 3 ferry rides, but we stopped here and there at look-outs and for short walks. Ferries were like mini-cruises with fjord, and mountain views and chance to spot whales. We drove (part) of scenic Sea-to-Sky Hwy stopping at Brandywine and Shannon Falls, and Tantalus Range viewpoint. Then along Howe Sound stopping at Porteau Cove. When we arrived at Horseshoe Bay the lines for the ferry were long and we were worried if we could get on one the two runs left that day (last was very late). Without ticket bought in advance, we had to wait in separate line. Luckily 2.5 hours later we were on board. Piotr got extra driving test as we were sent to wrong deck at first – too low for Subaru with rooftop cargo box. Backing-out of loading ramp through a maze of orange traffic cones on big plaza to another ramp leading to different deck. Zigzagging, but no scratches. No long waiting or problems on other ferries. Slow drive on Sunshine Coast Highway through small towns/villages and local road to Porpoise Bay Campground.

Day 85.

From Porpoise Bay we continued on Sunshine Coast Highway to catch Earls Cove to Saltery Bay Ferry, stopping only briefly at Eagle River Falls. And continued right away to Power River to catch ferry to Comox (Vancouver Island). Sunshine Coast Highway is in fact small, winding summer vacation-style road.

We arrived at Seal Bay quite late. RV Park office was already closed, but following info posted on the door and with help from other campers we somehow figured out what to do. It is probably the best private campground we have ever stayed at – large spaces for campers and separate area for tents where we stayed. Top notch facilities. On top of it, the host gave us good discount and we stayed there two nights.

Day 86.

Our windshield had been sprayed with stones a few times during this trip without causing any significant damage. So we thought. Then, out of nowhere a 12-inch crack appeared (after driving on a bumpy Eagle River Falls access road and temps going up quickly ?). We heard one louder bang days earlier, but we thought stone hit metal – it hit glass close to the edge, hard to see. We made arrangements in Comox (Coastline Glass) to replace the windshield. It was Saturday and they ordered glass for Tuesday.

Piotr called rest day (?) with less driving and more relaxing (?). We drove around Comox, starting with the glass repair shop, shopping and visiting Goose Spit. Joanna took off for walk in Seal Bay Park by the coast. We had good place to stay, cooked dinner and tasted the beer. No to mention laundry and hot shower (two days in a row). With next campground booked for Sunday we were ready to explore Vancouver Island.