We are back from Nepal

We are back in Chicago from 31-day trip to Nepal with short stops in Qatar. We had very good time hiking , slower than anticipated, but made it to all the places as planned (with only minor adjustments): Gokyo and the Lakes along Ngozumpa Glacier, Gokyo Ri, Renjo Pass. Five of the 15 World’s highest mountains were  within our sight: Cho Oyu (8188) and Gyachung Kang (7952), Everest (8848) and Lhotse (8516), and Makalu (8485). Our trail was 152 km long with, 13 km total ascent, hiking between  1490 and 5375 masl. As we hiked slowly, high altitude was not a big problem.

We had good weather most of the time, perfect on Renjo La for snapshots with Everest and Lhotse. It was supposed to be mostly sunny and clear in November, but each day clouds rolled in around noon or earlier (one full day was all clear, but one completely cloudy) and afternoons were really cold. But no rain or snow which was great. Overall the weather was actually not as cold as we expected despite cloud cover in the afternoons. Very warm when the Sun was out.  We hiked in sub-freezing temps (-6℃) only in the morning on the Renjo La day and temps down to -1℃ to -2℃ on a couple more days with cloud cover. We had only one night with sub-zero temps in our room (down to -1℃). Joanna’s sleeping bag was not very warm, but it worked well with thick lodge blankets – all lodges were well prepared for cold weather in this respect.

We both struggled a bit with Khumbu cough and colds. We treated all cold drinking water with UV/Steripen, but mostly drank tea and other hot beverages provided by the lodges, didn’t eat any meat and avoided uncooked vegies. Had some very minor stomach issues a few times, but not really affecting hiking all that much. We were quite tired when we came back to Kathmandu. Heavy air pollution in Kathmandu valley wore us down quite a bit at the end.

Nepal 2018 itinerary
Oct28SunORD ➜(Quatar Airways) ➜
29MonDoha➜DOHDoha evening walk [@ Hoiliday Inn]
30TueKathmanduDOH ➜(Quatar Airways) ➜KAT➜ Kathmanduprep for trekking [@ Dil’s Homestay]
31WedKathmanduPrep for trekking
Nov1ThuPhapluKathmandu ➜ (jeep) ➜ Phaplu [@ Lodge]
2FriTaksinduStart of trekking [@ Taksindu Resort Lodge]
3SatJubingTrekking [@ Gorkhali Lodge]
4SunKhareTrekking [@ Lodge]
5MonSurkeTrekking [@ Thamserku Lodge]
6TueMonjoTrekking [@ Mount Kailash Lodge]
7WedNamcheTrekking [@ Khumbu Lodge]
8ThuKhumjungTrekking [@ Hidden Village Lodge]
9FriKhumjungKhunde (Piotr), rest day (Joanna) [@ Hidden Village Lodge]
10SatDholeTrekking [@ Alpine Cottage Lodge]
11SunMachermoTrekking [@ Sherpa Land Lodge]
12MonGokyoTrekking [@ Cho Oyu View Lodge]
13TueGokyoGokyo Lake V [@Thanka Inn]
14WedGokyoGokyo Ri (Joanna), rest day (Piotr) [@Thanka Inn]
15ThuLundenTrekking Renjo La [@ Renjo Pass Support Lodge ]
16FriThameTrekking [@ Valley View Lodge]
17SatMonjoTrekking [@ Mount Kailash Lodge]
18SunLuklaEnd of trekking [@ Lodge]
19MonLuklaStuck at LUK [@ Lodge]
20TueKathmanduLUK ➜ (small plane) ➜RHP ➜(bus) ➜ Kathmandu [@ Dil’s Homestay]
21WedKathmanduThamel Durbar Square [@ Hotel Giarmondo]
22ThuKathmanduThamel ➜ (taxi) ➜ BouddhaPashupatinath ➜ (taxi) ➜ Thamel
23FriKathmanduThamel ➜ (taxi) ➜ Ratna Park ➜ (bus) ➜ Bhaktapur ➜ (taxi) ➜ Thamel
24SatKathmandu‎Thamel ➜(taxi) ➜ SwayambhunathAsan Tole Thamel
25SunKathmanduKathmandu ➜ (bus) ➜ Patan ➜ (taxi) ➜ Thamel
26MonDohaKAT ➜ (Quatar Airways) ➜ DOH ➜ Doha[@ Al Liwan Suites]DOH ➜
27TueChicago➜ ORD
Phaplu-Gokyo-Lukla

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Phaplu-Gokyo-Lukla trail profile

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Key waypoint distances and elevations on our Gokyo trek
kmmasllatitudelongitude
November1ThursdayKathmandu129227°43’05″N85°18’28″E
Phaplu0.0247927°30’55.79″N86°35’4.27″E
2FridayRingmo11.8273627°35’15.18″N86°36’14.86″E
Taksindu La13.5306627°35’31.96″N86°37’2.70″E
Taksindu14.3293127°35’35.30″N86°37’18.33″E
3SaturdayNunthala18.2219827°35’20.47″N86°38’49.18″E
Dhudh Koshi (river)22.3149027°35’38.12″N86°40’42.52″E
Jubing23.3165127°35’53.00″N86°41’11.00″E
4SundayKharikhola Monastery25.5205027°36’13.68″N86°42’1.25″E
Bupsa29.0234827°36’51.05″N86°42’53.99″E
Khare30.8259027°37’29.98″N86°43’4.48″E
5MondayPaiya35.3276027°38’29.44″N86°43’50.94″E
Surke41.0230027°40’20.55″N86°43’7.54″E
6TuesdayGhat48.4258027°43’27.33″N86°42’53.48″E
Phakding50.4262027°44’24.90″N86°42’45.44″E
Monjo55.6287027°46’25.34″N86°43’20.74″E
7WednesdayNamche60.2342327°48’15.85″N86°42’37.34″E
Park Headquarters60.8356027°48’11.13″N86°42’54.29″E
Namche61.5342327°48’15.85″N86°42’37.34″E
8ThursdayKhumjung64.4376327°49’18.20″N86°43’0.44″E
Khumjung Gompa65.0379727°49’30.04″N86°42’58.95″E
Khumjung65.5376327°49’18.20″N86°43’0.44″E
9FridayHilary Hospital66.9386427°49’25.12″N86°42’17.02″E
Khunde Stupa67.4382227°49’16.35″N86°42’25.25″E
Khumjung68.8376327°49’18.20″N86°43’0.44″E
Khumjung Viewpoint69.0382627°49’16.61″N86°43’5.00″E
Khumjung69.1376327°49’18.20″N86°43’0.44″E
10SaturdayMong La72.6397027°50’21.91″N86°44’9.38″E
Phortse Thanga74.4366027°51’1.39″N86°44’35.86″E
Dole77.0403227°52’1.52″N86°43’52.37″E
11SundayMachermo82.3439027°54’12.34″N86°42’58.08″E
12MondayGokyo89.2475427°57’13.70″N86°41’36.35″E
13TuesdayScoundrel’s Point95.0499028° 0’5.99″N86°41’10.33″E
Gokyo Lake V95.4496528° 0’6.86″N86°41’0.03″E
Gokyo101.1475427°57’12.25″N86°41’37.54″E
14WednesdayGokyo RI103.0535027°57’40.99″N86°40’59.03″E
Gokyo104.8475427°57’12.25″N86°41’37.54″E
15ThursdayRenjo La109.2537527°56’50.71″N86°39’30.21″E
Lunden116.0435027°54’19.01″N86°38’12.92″E
16FridayThame125.5380027°49’52.02″N86°38’56.82″E
17SaturdayNamche134.2342327°48’15.85″N86°42’37.34″E
Monjo138.9287027°46’25.34″N86°43’20.74″E
18SundayLukla151.9284727°41’14.29″N86°43’55.10″E
19MondayLukla
20TuesdayKathmandu
Piotr’s packing list: total 15.7 kg
TOTAL15.7kg
clothing7.3
equipment etc4.6
shared equipment/supplies3.3
water0.5
ON ME3.9kg
boots1347gVasque Breeze 2.0 Mid GTX
wool socks73Smart Wool
underwear62Exofficio
pants320Columbia Silver Ridge Convertible
belt/suspenders110
tshirt165
buff38Buff
hiking cap58Outdoor Research
hiking gloves73Ergodyne ProFlex 812
trekking poles476Komperdell
pocket knife90Gerber Torch
sunglasses34
camera/battery488Olympus E-PM2 14-42 mm
scope190Alpen 8×25 monocular
phone215iPhone XS
watch38Timex Expedition
passport/money115
ON MY BACK11.8kg
backpack/liner/cover1208gGranite Gear Crown 60 (long 65 L)
sleeping bag/sack1397Sierra Design Ridge Runner (Down 600 15 F/-9 C)
liner253Sea to Summit Thermolite
downjacket/bag907Mountain Hardware hooded 650 down
jacket504Columbia
rainpants175Mountain Warehouse Pakka
daypack/organizer69Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil
pants340Columbia Silver Ridge Convertible
fleece286North Face
3 x wool socks321Smart Wool, Darn Togh
3 x underwear216Exofficio, Calvin Klein
2 x tshirt315
3 x top594Terramar
2 x bottom356Terramar
2 x gloves180Fleece, insulated
2 x wool beanie150
light shoes554Nike Quest running
slippers76Holliday Inn Doha
light/batteries281Nitecore HC65/NL1829LTP 2900mAh
chargers/batteries399
repair kit50Homemade
temp beacon14Blue Maestro Tempo Disc
spare glasses31
4 x mesh shopping bags46Shopping Mall Nairobi
2 x emergency blanket96
guide/map198
money100
towel71
steriPEN Ultra134Katadyn
thermos376GSI MicroLite 1000
water bottle88Nalge 1000
cup & spoon62
soap & meds1245
lyophylised fruit/chocolate215
water0.5kg
Diagram of hiking temperature ℃ on Renjo La day
Food menus

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Nepal video clips

Highlights

Nepal, day 26-28: Kathmandu and Patan, and Doha on the way home

We visited ‎⁨Swayambhunath stupa on Saturday, a holiday in Nepal. It was packed with Nepali visitors and many tourists. It is located on prominent hill just a short taxi ride from Thamel. After spending half a day there we took another taxi to Asan Tole. We were looking for local spices and black Himalayan salt crystals. We spent the rest of the day just wandering around this part of the city.

Next day was all about Patan. The third of the old royal cities in the Valley: Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan. The old town is stil undergoing quite significant restoration after the 2015 earthquake. A lot to see. We returned to Thamel (by taxi) for dinner at Fusion Himalaya Restaurant (our favorite in Kathmandu). On Monday we just packed our bags and were on our way home in the afternoon (enjoying views of Annapurna from the plane), with o/n stop (just a few hours of sleep)  in Doha.

Nepal, day 25: Bhaktapur

We spent all day in Bhaktapur. We first traveled by taxi to Ratna Park and then by inexpensive public bus to Bhaktapur old town. The bus was very packed and very slow, but we had an opportunity to watch Nepalis taking care of their daily chores. Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square was not too crowded, with tourists grinding around. Just like us. Some buildings have been already restored after the 2015 earthquake, there was quite a bit of construction work going on, much more restoration left to do. We visited a small museum in rebuilt section of the Royal Palace. We walked through the old city visiting Taumadhi Square with Nyatapola Temple, Pottery Square and Dattatreya Square. In the evening, we strolled around watching locals celebrating a holiday (?). We returned to Thamel by taxi.

Nepal, day 23 & 24: Kathmandu

We spent two days visiting different parts of Kathmandu, walking from temple to temple, but also watching people going about their daily business. The streets were crowded. On the first day, we walked from Thamel to  Durbar Square and back, no way to remember all the street names. On the second day we traveled to Boudhanath by taxi in the morning. The stupa was our favorite place in Kathmandu area, so peaceful. Then we walked over to Pashupatinath to meet new friends, a Polish couple we met in Lukla. We tried different restaurants in Thamel in the evenings.

Nepal, day 19-22: Thame-(Namche)-Monjo-Lukla (Trekking Day 16&17 and escape from Lukla)

Relaxed and with nice weather, we continued to walked down beautiful and quiet Bhote Koshi valley. To Namche for chocolate cake at Namche Bakery and then down to Monjo, where we stayed for the night in the same lodge as on the way up (Mount Kailash Lodge). Thame to Monjo is ~13 km. The next day, as we walked another 13 km to Lukla, the weather was still good and we heard all the planes in the air – encouraging sign as we were hopping to fly out of Lukla early next morning. No luck, the weather got worse and we got stuck. Got to the airport before sunrise, checked in and went through security, and spent the whole day there – not a single flight arrived or departed that day because of clouds somewhere between Lukla and Kathmandu. Cargo helicopters were flying, some people payed for helicopters, but still were not able to fly out that day. Groups were rebooked for early morning flights next day, but individuals couldn’t change their tickets until ~4 pm and we got only late 10 am departure slot. Stayed in an overpriced and not so friendly lodge (moved to a different one for the second night). On the second day of waiting for our flight to Kathmandu, we also went to the airport at sunrise, but we’re not able to switch to an earlier flight. Clouds  were on and off and flights were way behind the schedule. With our late slot we had no chance.  After watching how people flying cargo and passengers operate at Lukla, we decided an escape at any cost (perhaps not the $500 they were asking for helicopter flight) was our best bet, although some flights were coming in (and going out).

Lukla airstrip

Landing at Lukla airstrip

 
We took an offer to fly to Ramechhap, a local egg and fuel hub, to put our feet on the ground in the lowlands. Five-hour bus ride to Kathmandu completed the adventure. The bus ride required constant active management,  business models of the driver and the passengers were divergent. Despite some hiking fatigue setting in, we missed the high mountains already.

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