Author: Joanna and Piotr

July 6-9

Heading north from The Rockies we decided to travel northeast from Prince George towards the Ocean, Stewart (CA) and Hyder (AK). The original plan was to first go north towards Dawson creek and Fort Nelson. Overall the same loop, but in opposite direction. In Kitwanga we changed from Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy to Stewart-Cassiar Hwy.

Full day in Mt Robson Provincial Park hiking along Robson River to Kinney Lake and Valley of Thousand Falls. 22 km (return) with 490 m total elevation gain. Despite the length of the hike, it was relaxing day. Walking on good trails, sometimes uphill, crossing gravel flats, along the river and the lake. Water color was very interesting, changing throughout the day and depending on viewing angle. Glacial-opaque and from light to intense blue-green. Contrasting green forest and gray rocks above water, then mountain tops covered with snow and white clouds on blue sky. Our photos actually tell the truth. We did not make it all the way through Valley of Thousand Falls, as that looked like requiring bushwhacking beyond trail wash-out point. We returned to Robson Meadows campground quite tired at the end of long day. We already had a spot reserved there.

We are now moving along Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy from Rearguard Falls in the morning to wild camping near Zelkwas Lake, 40 km past Prince George. With longer stop along the way to visit Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park.

The day was very hot and walking under old big trees (hundreds-years old western redcedars) was quite a relief. Humid as in all rainforests. The Provincial Park was set-up to preserve remnants of pristine ancient forest, the only inland temperate rainforest in the world, which somehow survived logging. The redcedars are very big and tall, difficult to photograph, much more impressive in real life.

We continued moving along Yellowhead Hwy to Vanderhoof (excellent Tourism and Cultural Centre and small museum nearby), Ksan Village (museum/skansen was closed), Hagwilget Bridge, Hazelton and Kitwanga (Gitwangak Totem Poles). The day was about visiting small towns and native villages with interesting history and getting a good look at many totem poles. We had no luck with museums but had a look at old houses from the outside. Old Hazelton (Village) has some small buildings remaining from the old days and intesting bridge on the way from New Hazelton. With no time to drive anymore, we decided to stay at small Kitwanga Municipal campground, right in the village. Next morning we stopped at Gitwangak Battle Hill National Historic Site and spent couple of hours walking around more totem poles in Gitanyow (Historic Village and Interpretative Center was closed), before driving 200 km to Stewart (next post).

The poles are of different age as the tradition to carve them continues. Some poles stand in the same place where important villages used to be, like in Gitanyow on Kitwanga River. Some are on display in Ksan Village skansen. Some are replicas of originals now in big museums. We did not get a chance to talk to anybody there, but we liked the art and culture experience.

July 1-5

Day 18. We continue moving north on Icefields Pky – it is very scenic making (easy) driving a pleasant experience on its own. But we are making stops on the way. First to visit Mistaya Canyon which is very nice. We got a good views of Mistaya River and falls from different angles. Next was Saskatchewan River Crossing, a small travel stop serving tourists, to get coffee and gas (most expensive of the entire trip). The Parkway now runs along North Saskatchewan River. Views of the river and surrounding mountains are impressive. Big Bend Viewpoint is located on 180º highway switchback.

We are getting closer to famous glaciers flowing down from Columbia Icefield. To see Saskatchewan Glacier we hiked on Parker Ridge Trail in Banff NP through alpine landscape with rewarding views from the ridge (6.5 km return, 440 m total gain) — very beautiful. Later, we stopped briefly at Columbia Icefield Visitor Center in Jasper NP (packed, long wait to get coffee) and parked for two nights at Wilcox Campground (packed full).

Day 19. All about Athabasca Glacier in Jasper NP. We first walked up Wilcox Pass Trail for views from across the valley (7 km return, 330 m total gain). Only the edge of Columbia Icefield can be seen. Weather on the pass was fog and drizzle, but improved soon. Special heavy busses transport visitors to the glacier’s edge (dirt road on top of lateral moraine), but we parked our car near Sunwapta (glacier) Lake and walked across gravels of old terminal and bottom moraines, crossing streams and pools. This area was all under ice 70 years ago. 180 years ago the glacier extended all the way to the Visitor Center which sits on top of the old terminal moraine. Polished bottom rock and old lateral moraine indicate what once was. With micro-spikes and walking poles we were ready to explore, slowly gaining confidence as it was our first time on glacier. Exciting and easier that we expected. Dinner at Altitude Restaurant (next to the Visitor Center), Wilcox Campground.

Day 20. We are heading to Jasper. First stop at Sunwapta Falls — the river flows from Sunwapta Lake at the base of Athabasca Glacier. Second stop at Athabasca Falls. Icfields Pky runs now along Athabasca River all the way to Jasper. Third stop to watch brown bear grazing along the parkway. Stopped briefly at Jasper Visitor Center to talk to rangers about hiking. Settled at Becker’s Chalets cabin (recommended) for two nights (we were lucky to get the cancellation as everything was booked). It was comfortable and relaxing stay, badly needed (restocking, laundry) after camping for 11 straight nights. We were in Jasper before this summer fire, fortunately the Chalets survived.

Day 21. Maligne Lake. We were learning about underground caves and channels draining water from Maligne Lake to Medicine Lake to springs in Maligne Canyon. It was slow going as the road serves only tourists. We watched two eaglets on high nest at Medicine Lake, not quite ready to fly. Then came a grizzly bear on the shore looking for something. Then another grizzly with two cubs and black bear walking on the road. Another brown bear feeding along the road. Most bears we have seen in a single day. Some spectators getting off cars and way to close, bumped into our car when grizzly scared them with false charge.

We walked a 8km loop that day, first along Maligne Lake and then to Moose Lake. We stopped in Jasper on the way back to Becker’s Chalets and saw big elk bull grazing along the road. It was beautiful day, great views and so many animals.

Day 22. Maligne Canyon Trails are very popular with visitors. Most of the time it looks like a slot canyon, but in fact these are remnants of old underground, glacial run-off water plumbing with tops now collapsed so they are open. Such underground channels connect Maligne and Medicine Lakes to this day, and then run through cave system to re-surface 16 km downstream through springs in Maligne Canyon. We spent several hours walking up and down the canyon/river. We arrived at Mount Robson Park in early afternoon and secured camp site for two nights at very large Robson Meadows Campground (recommended) before it started to fill-up. We had time for a short walk from the campground along Fraser River to Overlander Falls.