Author: Joanna and Piotr

Day 13 (afternoon).

The ferry ride from Blanc-Sablon to Saint Barbe was short and quite comfortable. By the time we arrived wind was strong and our boat waited for a while for quieter moment to dock. Despite wind,  rain and cold we walked (in rain pants and ponchos) short Marjorie Bridge & Thrombolites Walking Trail at Flowers Cove, located some 20 km from St Barbe. We then continued in light rain on Rte 430 until sunset. We found a decent spot on little pond (gravel pit) just past Eddies Cove. No weather for cooking dinner, just quick snacks and hope for sunny morning coffee.

That also meant new task: photographing rocks and fossils, starting with thrombolites.

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Day 14.

Sunny weather returns. We are heading east and then north-east to L’Anse aux Meadows to learn what Vikings were doing there. North part of Newfoundland has some of the remoteness we felt in Newfoundland and Labrador. First stop at Dark Tickle shop in St Lunaire. Too early –  no coffee served yet (10:30 am ?). We watched bakeapple (cloudberry) preserves being made “home-style” (we bought a small jar). An hour later we were at the archeological site (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – the only firmly confirmed Norse settlement in North America, also occupied earlier by indigenous people. We joined good guided  tour, visited “Viking Settlement” exhibition and park museum, finished by walking short loop along the coast and through meadows.

In the afternoon we drove back the same way we came and then north-west to Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve near Raleigh to look for rare plants among rock barrens. With substantial lunch on the way at The Daily Catch restaurant (recommended) in St Lunaire-Griquet – probably best seafood of the enitre trip. Simple but great freshness and taste: cod gratin, seafood chowder and black mussles. Good french bread to go. Good location right on the coast (Rte 436).

We arrived at the Reserve not really knowing what to expect – we first parked at the entrance only to learn we can explore it by car so we drove to the end of the gravel road. It is open, barren land on top of high, rocky cliff with waves breaking below. Sun was already low, but gray clouds moving in pushed it even lower and wind was howling. Quite a scenery. We looked around for a while, Joanna investigated interesting pockets of vegetation.

It was already getting dark when we started making our way south. By the time we arrived at Main Brook Park campground the office was already closed, but the owner who lives nearby came to check us in, and was kind to wait while we took quick shower. Great!
End of very long day.

Day 15.

We now continue driving on Rte 432 west across the island and then on Rte 430 south along Gulf of St Lawrence coast line. Just before  Eddies Cove West we turned on local road towards the coast  and parked for a break on gravel lot used to store lobster traps. Piotr had time for driver’s nap, Joanna investigated fossils on the rocky shore. Port au Choix was next, first to get some bread baked in french oven typical for this part of the country (too early for live demonstartion though), followed by visit to Phillip’s garden for a walk and finally Pointe Riche lighthouse. We also stopped at French Rooms Cultural Center. No luck spotting whales, but we watched small (resident) caribou herd grazing near the lighthouse (surprisingly tourists did not approach the animals to take selfies). We managed short dash on Limestone Barrens trail, fried seafood dinner at Point Riche restaurant and quick look at fishing port in Port au Choix. It was time to go. Driving along the coast near water as the sun was setting down was very pleasant, but no time for breaks.

We tried to find camping spot off Rte 430. Two recommendations on iOverlander (one was already packed the other was in small park where local people go for walks with their dogs) and a couple of side-dirt-roads with no luck. At least we saw black bear with two cubs while away from main road. It was already dark, almost 9 pm, when we decided to move on and go to Arches Provincial Park – parking lot there was our fall-back plan. 3 other cars were asleep already when we arrived. We took a spot closest to shore. It was nice place to be as we discovered in the morning. And just 10 miles from Gros Morne National Park.
Another long day.

Day 8.

We had overcast/drizzle start of the day with more biting flies (this time we were prepared a lot better). Still got some good viewes of Lac Manicouagan from the road before we reached truck stop at Relais-Gabriel to fill-up the tank. CC terminal did not work  – it was one of a few ocassions when we dipped into our cash reserve. We paid $67.12 in notes and coins – at $2.459 per liter the most expensive gasoline of the trip.

Twelve  miles later, we attempted a short forest walk (Sentier Provencher trail), but it was through dense, wet undergrowth  (rain pants and ponchos required). Next  stop, just across the road in Uapishka Biodiversity Reserve, was longer. First, we checked-out beach-side campsites there, not bad alternative to where we stayed,  and then we walked a bit on Sentier trail with good views on Lac Manicouagan. We were certainly fascinated by vegetation on the forest floor, but also jeleaous watching kayakers paddling up one of the river outlets. Breaks in rainy weather were good for walking, but not enough for us to go sailing.

Trafic on Rt 389 was light, very few passanger cars and not too many heavy trucks, most near open-pit mine(s) and Labrador City. The road here is running along railway and has a bit too much of industrial revolution feel, even though interesting on its own. We drove around Labrador City and settled for the night at Two Seasons Inn.

We liked boreal forest: trees on carpet of tajga-style ground-cover of lichen and moss dotted with mushrooms and berries, all quietly surrounded by green hills, and greyish sky and water.

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Day 9.

We are now out of Labrador City heading east on Trans Labrador Highway 500. Weather is back to “normal”: sunny with few clouds. We just keep driving enjoying the views from our car, sometimes stopping at road’s edge or on bridges when no other cars were in sight (almost always). The road is all paved from now on and fixed-up recently. With little other traffic, one wonders how good it is to be able to drive through Labrador and just look around. We stopped for a short walk to get a good view of Churchill Falls. More driving and looking around, and finding wild campsite for the night.

Piotr found new assignment: combing forests to photograph mushrooms.

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Day 10.

The following day we made it to Happy Valley-Goose Bay. Spent some time wandering along Churchill River’s sandy banks and wetlands. It is all flat here with the river meandering slowly towards open sea still more than 100 miles away. Next destination: Labrador Interpretation Centre (in North West River), after  short scramble up to small waterfalls across the road from Gosling Lake. We were the last and only visitors just before the Center closed. We had informative and funny conversation with the guide. Finally somebody tought us how to properly pronounce “Newfoundland” (we had no clue) as we were heading there in a couple of days. At the end of the day, we were back on Trans Labrador Highway heading South-East and South on Rt 510 (a.k.a. South Labrador Highway). We crossed Churchill River and a couple of hours later found a decent camp site just at sunset (dinner with head lamps on). Joanna was ready  to visit towns, historical places and more museums.

Day 11.

We are driving across Lablador’s interior, but getting closer to the ocean, Port Hope Simpson and Mary’s Harbour. We liked Mary’s Harbour and spent some time looking around and walking on Gin Cove (boardwalk) Path. We briefly considered day-trip to Battle Island ($150 per person, overnight trips are notoriously expensive), but we would have to stay extra day in the area.

Day 12.

We completed the Labrador part of our trip in the following day and a half, first cutting across the interior to Red Bay. We somehow made it for 10 am one-hour visit to Saddle Island (short boat ride away) and even had half an hour to spare for breakfas in nearby restaurant (our mornings are usually very slow). Piotr had traditional salted cod breakfast and lived. We knew about the English and French, but learning about 16th-century Basque whaling was a good history lesson. There is not much left to see from those times – small exhibition provides good illustration. It was enough time to walk a short loop around the island (mostly boardwalk, some under construction). We were spared heavy rain – it was overcast, foggy with ocassional very light drizzle. The kind of weather that stirs imagination.

We then jumped to Pinware River Provincial Park for a pleasant walk on beaches (river-side and sea-side). Water in the river is clear but brownish (tanins) and sand is reddish/orange – colors enhanced by sunlight getting through the clouds. It was moderate rain rest of the day and we decided to stay “indoors” for the night – in cottage Grenfell B&B Forteau. We stopped at 7500-year-old burial site at L’Anse-Amour and climbed to the top of L’Anse-Amour lighthouse. We tried Labrador tea for the first time at the lighthouse museum – it grows everywhere and we collected/dried some leaves in Newfoundland.

Day 13.

We joined visitors staying in other cottages for home-made breakfast. Nice conversation about travel and some local specialties like bakeapple (cloudberry) jam which we tried for the first time. We drove on Rt 510 west all the way past Blanc-Sablon stopping a few times to view rugged and more barren cost. Joanna walked more on historical Jersey Trail   learning about 19th century life of fishermen and sealers, and their families. Early afternoon we were ready to board 3:30 pm Blanc-Sablon to St Barbe ferry. Couple hours later we landed in Newfoundland.