Estern Canada road trip days 30-37: New Brunswick and return to Chicago

Day 30

The first objective of the day was to cross Prince Edward Island and then Confederation Bridge over Northumberland Strait. Piotr did not want to get caught driving on long (13 km) exposed bridge in whatever wind leftovers the huricane could still produce. Driving into side wind-gusts with cargo box on the roof is not fun. We just moved steadily and arrived midday in New Brunswick. We new parks and park camgrounds remained closed. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park Visitor Center was closed, but we decided to take to the trails on the coast with quite a few other visitors. Weather was not bad. People come here mostly to watch the tide come and go.

Later, we drove up and down Scenic Drive along the coast (Rte 915). Stopping at Cape Enrage Lighthouse. Piotr did not like wild camping spots Joanna found and we spent the night at The Shire, small camping next to (old) Ha Ha Cemetery. Convenient and nice spot. Hats, mosquito nets, two layers to cover entire body and we were stil bitten multiple times.  No way we could cook dinner, we ate whatever sitting in the car. All mosquitos from Canada converged on us there, they were not really a problem anywhere else.

Day 31

Next stop, Fundy National Park. We considered staying in Alma, but after talking to rangers at the Visitor Center decided park campground was a better option. We had plenty of time to walk around. Spent some time on the beaches watching the tide sweep-in quite quickly. Watermarks showed impresive tide-height  in Bay of Fundy (up to 16 m), among the highest in the World. We also walked two trails, Shiphaven and Coppermine, through forested high banks.

Chignecto Campground is quite large, but there were only a few people around that day late in season. We found a good spot near shelter/kitchen. Everything looked new. With plenty of firewood and food we were set for the evening. It was cold and rainy outside.

Day 32

Now we knew the Canadian adventure is ending – we were heading toward US border. Six more days, 2500 km to Chicago. Driving, some stops to rest and look around. Next major destination: visiting friends in Cleveland.

Coffee break for XL latte at Picadilly Coffee Roasters in Sussex NB (recommended) and brief visit  at New River Beach Provincial Park NB, Joanna walked around, Piotr took driver’s nap. Last two stops in Canada.

When we arrived at Fogg Brook Resort Campground, Palmyra ME, the office was alrady closed but the staff was very nice and came back to check us in. Then neighbours came over with strong flash light, as we were setting camp after dark, and big bundle of camp firewood. It was the first time we camped on golf course.

Day 33

We stopped in Freeport ME to pick-up groceries at Bow Street Market and for lunch at Lobster Cooker (recommended) followed by coffee at  Siphouse (recommended) on Main Street. All selected based on friendly recommendations at Mainly Seafood Company just off the highway. Lobster time for Joanna, Piotr settled for fish & chips basket plus later extra-large latte. And we were back on I-295/95 heading south and then on Hwy 202 and 9 west to Vermont.

George D Aiken Wilderness Rd dispersed camping in Green Mountains, VT (recommended). Last chance for wild camping and we liked it.

 

 

Day 34

Joanna was looking for one more short hike and we decided to go on Long Trail to Maple Hill near Bennington VT. Weather was beautiful. We added a couple of miles  on one of our favorites: Appalachian Trail. Coffee at The Perfect Blend on Broad St in Waverly NY and driving on major highways for the rest of the day until Unadilla / I-88 / Oneonta KOA Journey campground (our first KOA and it was very good). We got a nice spot at the end of the campground and not between large campers/RVs.

Day 35

All day of highway driving with short stop for sunset and short walk at Elk Creek, Erie Bluffs State Park, PA. We arrived at Joanna’s friend’s house in Cleveland suburb in the evening.

Day 36

We spent half-a-day visiting Cuyahoga National Park, OH. A combination of easy walk through forested hills and creeks, and on  Cuyahoga River with a bit of history: Ohio & Erie Canal and Valley Railway (18th century), and industrial sites such as Jaite Paper Mill (early 20th century). 30th US National Park we have visited so far. We spent the rest of our time with friends.

Day 37

Just driving from Cleveland to Chicago.

Estern Canada road trip days 27-29: Prince Edwars Island

Day 27

We arrived in Charlottetown in quite intense rain. Joanna interogated rangers at the Visitor Center and we stopped at Water Prince Corner Shop for early dinner. Great seafood:  island mussles and lobster roll. Rain slowed down enough for a walk around the neighbourhood. We crossed the island to the north side and took a spot at Cavendish campground in PEI National Park: closest to the beach and next to shelter to stay under roof if heavy rain returned. Campground was partially closed with just some campers. The hurricane was still a couple of days away.

Day 28

Weather improved, time to visit all corners of Prince Edward Island National Park: Cavendish Beach, MacNeills Brook Beach, North Rustico Beach, Brackley Beach, Covehead Harbour Lighthouse,  Cavendish Cliffs, back to Cavendish Beach, Dunelands and Oceanview Lookoff. Green Gables Heritage Place was already closed, so we just walked Haunted Woods Trail where we met nobody,  but lonely fox making its rounds.  It walked within a couple of feet without even acknowledging our presence. The hurricane was still 24 hours away, but weather was changing: red evening sky below low dark clouds, wind gusts and rushing waves. We moved to a different camping spot at Cavendish, perhaps 100m further inland, like it would make any difference.

Day 29

Morning visit to Green Gables Heritage Place, Montgomery Park and Cavendish Cemetery (Cavendish is Avonlea in books about Anne). Late lunch at Carr’s Oyster Bar (recommended) in Stanley Bridge. Finally found the right place to try fresh local oysters (Piotr could not refuse tasting two). Followed by baked oysters and steamed clams.

Drove all the way to Thunder Cove Beach only to discover it was closed for visitors, just looked around. Took diferent local roads to go back. Weather was cleary getting more active: wind gusts, fast moving clouds, passing rains. We were looking for a place to overnight and Joanna found Dreamweavers Cottages and Vacation Homes (recommended) in North Rustico. Fully equipped cottage (kitchen, laundry etc) and very nice host. We parked away from trees and listened to wind gusts becoming stronger. Remnants of the hurricane (just wind and rain)  passed over our heads at night.

Estern Canada road trip days 24-27: Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

Day 24

We did sleep quite a bit on ferry, but were not fully rested. The day started with clouds and passing rains as we were driving west and then north toward Cape Breton Highlands National Park. But first, breakfast plus coffee at Chanterelle Inn & Cottages. The weather was not encouraging when we arrived at Ingonish Visitor Centre. Rain was breaking at times allowing for decent walks at Middle Head Trail and Ingonish Beach in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Very good sighting of several pilot whale pods from the tip of the peninsula.

After brief detour to South Harbour, we finished the day in Pleasant Bay. The rain was quite heavy at times, driving was slow and tiring. After extended debate we ended-up in local motel rather than camping at one of the day-time parking lots (a.k.a. National Park campgrounds). We were quite disappointed as we were driving on famous Cabot Trail and weather refused to cooperate all day – this was the  only time it happened during our entire trip.

Day 25

Sunny day with passing clouds. Confirmed at Whale Interpretative Center in Pleasant Bay that what we saw the day before were really pilot whales. Checked-out models of different whales at the beach. We spent the rest of the day on Skyline Trail, Bog Trail and Le Buttereau Trail. Skyline is very popular with many visitors, but offers great vistas, examples of local habitats and moose influence.

Talked with ranger about bog habitat and how plants (e.g. normally larger tamarack) respond to harsh environment, growing smaller and looking (?) half-dead. Hot/cold, windy, wet, acidic bog environment dominated by sphagnum mosses.

Cabot Trail (road) is very scenic winding south-west along Gulf of St Lawrence coast.  At Buttereau we were learning about Acadians and their settlement. Did not meet a black bear seen walking on the trail,  but once we saw tree full of aromatic, ripe apples we knew why it was there. Settled for the night at Cheticamp Campground (sites too close to one another with no trees, Cape Breton campgrounds are not like we are used to in National Parks).

Day 26

We liked morning hike on Salmon (fishing) Pools Road Trail,  10 km (return) along Cheticamp River, just from the end of Cheticamp campground. Few people, very quiet. Probably busy during fishing season. The river is coloured orange/brown by tanins, quite vivid when iluminated by sun and looked at an angle, then black-dark where water is deep (pools). Contrasting with surrounding greenery. Download Piotr’s GPX file

We then stopped for a short walk on Gypsum Mine Trail (near Cheticamp) and quick swim (Joanna) in the pool. Inspected small chips of gypsum minerals (selenite and perhaps alabaster) scattered around. Joanna visited Saint Peter’s Church. We arrived late at Whycocomagh Provincial Park. Acadian meat pie from local bakery for dinner after dark.

Day 27

First half of the day passed uneventfully, just driving and looking around, stopping to see Canso Causeway and Bridge connecting Cape Breton Island to Nova Scotia peninsula. Monotony settled-in after 4 weeks of travel. We were following weather forecasts and path of hurricane Lee as it was moving in the same direction as us: Prince Edward Island. It was expected to loose most of its energy and rain. We decided to ignore anxiety and continue as planned. By midday we were in Caribou boarding ferry to Prince Edward Island.

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