One week in Tulum
November 2-9
It was a quick decision to go to Mexico on direct United flight from Chicago to Tulum. Easy to organize at last minute, expecting reasonable weather, lesser crowds and lower prices during low/shoulder season. First day was just travel, settling down and grocery shopping. We selected modern studio apartment at Casa del Arbol (recommended). Located in Tulum Centro away from Zona Hotelera along the beach we didn’t visit, but close to everything else (ADO bus station, celectivo stops, shops, restaurants and Chedraui Supermarket). It was excellent, well organized and very clean. Joanna did not like noise of passing cars and motorcycles at night, not a problem for Piotr. We examined DÃa de Muertos decorations and we ate Pan de Muerto in the evening watching motorcycle parade along our street trying to wake-up somebody (?).
Next day we took colectivo to Tulum ruins and spent half a day there. Colectivos here are convenient and inexpensive mode of transportation, easier to use than in South America. The scene approaching and at park entrance was quite chaotic. We just moved with the flow, waited in two lines to buy tickets and pay “tax” (not too bad), went through “environmental” check-point (had to throw away every piece of plastic they found in our backpacks and yes, they asked us to remove energy bar wrappers too). We asked about, but rejected guided tour offers (very dynamic pricing). Once inside, it was just walking around in well organized and maintained park with many visitors on sunny Sunday. Open sea proximity and views made it even more pleasant experience.
Structures here are quite different from all other Mayan ruins we have visited, both in shape – rectangular buildings not pyramids, and location on ocean cliff – not in flat jungle. Afterwards we went for a swim and walk on the beaches, hard to resist after hot day at the ruins. The coral reef is very close (short boat ride from the beach) and we decided to try to come back for snorkeling.
We liked tropical plants surrounding ruins and enjoyed watching iguanas, Yucatan jays and Great-tailed grackles. A predatory bird was circling in the sky above. We ended the day with seafood dinner at Sabor de Mar and Mexican craft beer in our comfy apartment.
Day 3. We are in Yukatan, we must snorkel/swim in cenotes. Short colectivo ride and shuttle into jungle and we were at Cenotes Yax-Muul. We first explored three cave cenotes with entertaining guide, Joanna rappelled down into one of them and then we went back to swim some more on our own. Water was very clear and at most time there were no or not too many people nearby (except for rappelling) making it an interesting experience.
Day 4. Sian Kaʼan Biosphere Reserve: boat tour of brackish water lagoons and mangroves watching wildlife. Plus soaking in Caribbean Sea at Punta Allen beach followed by lunch in local restaurant. The sea was too rough for snorkeling at coral reef. We were lucky to see several (West Indian) manatees hanging around underwater cenote. They appeared for a few seconds at a time to breath, we gave-up on taking pictures and just observed them. We spent some time with two pods of (Bottlenose) dolphins, watched turtles and crocodiles. We circled around Isla Pajaros to watch birds. In addition to what we captured on film (below), we saw vultures, cormorants, ibis and other birds, and another, this time very large crocodile parked at red mangrove edge.
We went with ☞ Mexico Kan Tours (recommended), after extensive on-line and in person investigation. Good decision: everything was well organized and relaxed, guides were good and engaged, groups were small, we were quite lucky with wildlife, but wished conditions were good for snorkeling. The entire tour was from 7 am pick-up to 4.30 pm drop-off with 6-hour and 80-km boat part.
Day 5. Kind of slow day. Joanna was looking for open cenotes to swim in, found deep Cenote Cristal with fish and turtles. Many open cenotes were closed because of recent rains. Piotr was resting.
Day 6. More Mayan ruins, this time in Coba. We took Oriente bus from ADO terminal. Upon arrival at the archeological park, we were approached by many people offering services (guides, bike rentals, bike “taxis”) frequently, but not overwhelming like in many other tourist destinations. Coba was reminiscent of other Mayan sites we visited in Guatemala and Belize. Easy walking on old Mayan roads (stone causeways) shaded by trees between excavated/restored structures with many more unexcavated piles of stones hiding in the jungle. Coba was a large center with history going back two thousand years, great influence at its peak and competing with Chichen Itza. It was abandoned by mid 16th century. There are many reasonably preserved structures/pyramids to explore (climbing them is no longer permitted), but stelas are quite aged. Access to Nohoch Mul pyramid (tallest in Coba) was restricted by construction of new viewing platforms.
We took colectivo on the way back. We found the stop, but asked around about departure times with mixed results. One person knew the correct answer and we soon were back in Tulum. We each had 4 tacos for dinner at Taqueria Maya on Sagitario Oriente: tasty, with different ingredients and flavors.
Day 7. Snorkeling at coral reef and swimming at Tulum beaches. We traveled by colectivo to Tulum ruins again (and later back), but this time we went straight to Playa Paraiso and all other beaches. Line to check point was very long, but at least we were ready without a trace of plastic in our backpacks. Joanna took 2-hour boat trip arranged on Pescadores beach to snorkel at two locations on coral reef: many fish species including large stingrays and many turtles. Plus an opportunity to see Tulum ruins from the sea. Piotr spent time relaxing, swimming and watching beach life. Documented 8 different bird species visiting that day. To visit the beaches, one has to either pay entrance fee (“tax”) like us or visit one of the beach clubs lining the shore (the boat trip was from one of them).
On the way home, we stopped at Tamales Don Taco on Centauro Norte (recommended) to pick-up dinner: 8 tamales in several different varieties (mostly chicken). We ate them in the evening with more bear preparing for the return trip next morning. The tamales were very large, fresh, tasty and with different flavors. Wrapped in real banana leaves. Throughout our visit we tried a dozen beers and left tequila/mescal tasting for next time.
We felt safe moving around Tulum and having good base (our apartment) to rest at the end of the day made the trip relaxed and comfortable. Our interactions with local people were friendly and helpful as we were trying to find our way around. Some chaos and sale attempts/tricks at touristy sites were not too surprising and did not affect us much. We liked traveling on colectivos, no-nonsense and inexpensive approach to quickly move people around. Buses were on time and efficient even though buying tickets at the terminal was unbelievably slow (better to buy on-line). Long-term weather forecasts were not reliable. We expected more rain, but we had great sunny or partially sunny days.
Last day was just travel: colectivo to ADO bus terminal, bus to all new and modern Tulum (Felipe Carrillo Puerto) airport for flight back to Chicago. Everything on time and without problems.
Days 26-28: Stewart-Salmon Glacier-Hyder-Boya Lake
July 9-11
We are ready for more glaciers. Bear Glacier first, just a view from Cassiar Hwy across Strohn (glacier) Lake. In the afternoon of day 26, we took Glacier Hwy to Stewart with two more stops: at Clements Lake (scouting for possible camping on the way back) and Stewart Boardwalk (just to get a quick look at the tip of Misty Fjord and old port site). We drove through Stewart, crossed the border to Alaska, did not stop in Hyder. All quickly as we tried to get to Salmon Glacier before dark. Granduc Road climbs high above the valley floor. The road was build to gain acces to gold, copper and other metal mining sites (Premier Gold Mine, Granduc Copper Mine). Mining causes environmental damage, but the (good gravel) road provides access to glacier viewpoints. We were driving slowly, but still almost missed border crossing back to British Columbia. And soon we got first good views of the glacier. From Salmon Glacier Viewpoint (where it turns 90° right) we could see all the way up to the icefield.
It was decision time: look for wild camping spot or go back towards Hyder/Stewart. We drove a bit further up Granduc Rd and saw below two gravel flats divided by a stream, just between the road and lateral moraine. One of them turn out to be easily accessible and we had one of the most beatiful spots to overnight all to ourselves. It was magical. Joanna had enough energy to cross the stream and run over the moraine to sea the ice’s edge and glacial ponds. Piotr collected firewood. Dinner was late (it started to turn dark around 11 pm). We hoped to see the glacier in morning sun, but it was not to be. Clouds and passing rain. We drove a few more miles up the road and turned back to Hyder. This side trip was very worth taking.
Wild camping at Salmon Glacier with fancy food. Beers (strong just in case), no grizzly bears.
We visited Hyder, a very small town now, but with character and interesting past. Bought cod fish & chips at famous shack (the Bus) , which we ate later at Stewart Visitors Centre. Little time to look around. We drove all afternoon north on Cassiar Hwy towards Yukon Territory. Watching black bear and later arctic fox walking along the road cheered us up. After 400 km in mostly rainy weather we had no choice, but to rent a cabin on Dease Lake. Lucky as it was the only thing available for a reasonable price and it was getting late.
Cassiar Hwy is a major two-lane road, but not a big highway. Winding, with nice relaxing scenery, not much traffic. We drove 700 km of it (from Kitwanga to Yukon Territory); it was pleasant experience. The main stop of that day was at Boya Lake, it’s shallow water reflecting sunlight in vibrant blue colors between many small islands. We had time for short walk and lunch, checked out campground, but ended driving some more to Yukon. In hindsight, we shuld have stayed and kayaked on this beatiful lake. Later we found nice wild camping site off Alaska Hwy just west of Watson Lake to end the day.
Days 23-26: Mt Robson-Hazelton-Kitwanga-Gitanyow
July 6-9
Heading north from The Rockies we decided to travel northeast from Prince George towards the Ocean, Stewart (CA) and Hyder (AK). The original plan was to first go north towards Dawson creek and Fort Nelson. Overall the same loop, but in opposite direction. In Kitwanga we changed from Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy to Stewart-Cassiar Hwy.
Full day in Mt Robson Provincial Park hiking along Robson River to Kinney Lake and Valley of Thousand Falls. 22 km (return) with 490 m total elevation gain. Despite the length of the hike, it was relaxing day. Walking on good trails, sometimes uphill, crossing gravel flats, along the river and the lake. Water color was very interesting, changing throughout the day and depending on viewing angle. Glacial-opaque and from light to intense blue-green. Contrasting green forest and gray rocks above water, then mountain tops covered with snow and white clouds on blue sky. Our photos actually tell the truth. We did not make it all the way through Valley of Thousand Falls, as that looked like requiring bushwhacking beyond trail wash-out point. We returned to Robson Meadows campground quite tired at the end of long day. We already had a spot reserved there.
We are now moving along Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy from Rearguard Falls in the morning to wild camping near Zelkwas Lake, 40 km past Prince George. With longer stop along the way to visit Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park.
The day was very hot and walking under old big trees (hundreds-years old western redcedars) was quite a relief. Humid as in all rainforests. The Provincial Park was set-up to preserve remnants of pristine ancient forest, the only inland temperate rainforest in the world, which somehow survived logging. The redcedars are very big and tall, difficult to photograph, much more impressive in real life.
We continued moving along Yellowhead Hwy to Vanderhoof (excellent Tourism and Cultural Centre and small museum nearby), Ksan Village (museum/skansen was closed), Hagwilget Bridge, Hazelton and Kitwanga (Gitwangak Totem Poles). The day was about visiting small towns and native villages with interesting history and getting a good look at many totem poles. We had no luck with museums but had a look at old houses from the outside. Old Hazelton (Village) has some small buildings remaining from the old days and intesting bridge on the way from New Hazelton. With no time to drive anymore, we decided to stay at small Kitwanga Municipal campground, right in the village. Next morning we stopped at Gitwangak Battle Hill National Historic Site and spent couple of hours walking around more totem poles in Gitanyow (Historic Village and Interpretative Center was closed), before driving 200 km to Stewart (next post).
The poles are of different age as the tradition to carve them continues. Some poles stand in the same place where important villages used to be, like in Gitanyow on Kitwanga River. Some are on display in Ksan Village skansen. Some are replicas of originals now in big museums. We did not get a chance to talk to anybody there, but we liked the art and culture experience.
Days 18 – 22: Icefields Parkway – Banff and Jasper National Parks
July 1-5
Day 18. We continue moving north on Icefields Pky – it is very scenic making (easy) driving a pleasant experience on its own. But we are making stops on the way. First to visit Mistaya Canyon which is very nice. We got a good views of Mistaya River and falls from different angles. Next was Saskatchewan River Crossing, a small travel stop serving tourists, to get coffee and gas (most expensive of the entire trip). The Parkway now runs along North Saskatchewan River. Views of the river and surrounding mountains are impressive. Big Bend Viewpoint is located on 180º highway switchback.
We are getting closer to famous glaciers flowing down from Columbia Icefield. To see Saskatchewan Glacier we hiked on Parker Ridge Trail in Banff NP through alpine landscape with rewarding views from the ridge (6.5 km return, 440 m total gain) — very beautiful. Later, we stopped briefly at Columbia Icefield Visitor Center in Jasper NP (packed, long wait to get coffee) and parked for two nights at Wilcox Campground (packed full).
Day 19. All about Athabasca Glacier in Jasper NP. We first walked up Wilcox Pass Trail for views from across the valley (7 km return, 330 m total gain). Only the edge of Columbia Icefield can be seen. Weather on the pass was fog and drizzle, but improved soon. Special heavy busses transport visitors to the glacier’s edge (dirt road on top of lateral moraine), but we parked our car near Sunwapta (glacier) Lake and walked across gravels of old terminal and bottom moraines, crossing streams and pools. This area was all under ice 70 years ago. 180 years ago the glacier extended all the way to the Visitor Center which sits on top of the old terminal moraine. Polished bottom rock and old lateral moraine indicate what once was. With micro-spikes and walking poles we were ready to explore, slowly gaining confidence as it was our first time on glacier. Exciting and easier that we expected. Dinner at Altitude Restaurant (next to the Visitor Center), Wilcox Campground.
Day 20. We are heading to Jasper. First stop at Sunwapta Falls — the river flows from Sunwapta Lake at the base of Athabasca Glacier. Second stop at Athabasca Falls. Icfields Pky runs now along Athabasca River all the way to Jasper. Third stop to watch brown bear grazing along the parkway. Stopped briefly at Jasper Visitor Center to talk to rangers about hiking. Settled at Becker’s Chalets cabin (recommended) for two nights (we were lucky to get the cancellation as everything was booked). It was comfortable and relaxing stay, badly needed (restocking, laundry) after camping for 11 straight nights. We were in Jasper before this summer fire, fortunately the Chalets survived.
Day 21. Maligne Lake. We were learning about underground caves and channels draining water from Maligne Lake to Medicine Lake to springs in Maligne Canyon. It was slow going as the road serves only tourists. We watched two eaglets on high nest at Medicine Lake, not quite ready to fly. Then came a grizzly bear on the shore looking for something. Then another grizzly with two cubs and black bear walking on the road. Another brown bear feeding along the road. Most bears we have seen in a single day. Some spectators getting off cars and way to close, bumped into our car when grizzly scared them with false charge.
We walked a 8km loop that day, first along Maligne Lake and then to Moose Lake. We stopped in Jasper on the way back to Becker’s Chalets and saw big elk bull grazing along the road. It was beautiful day, great views and so many animals.
Day 22. Maligne Canyon Trails are very popular with visitors. Most of the time it looks like a slot canyon, but in fact these are remnants of old underground, glacial run-off water plumbing with tops now collapsed so they are open. Such underground channels connect Maligne and Medicine Lakes to this day, and then run through cave system to re-surface 16 km downstream through springs in Maligne Canyon. We spent several hours walking up and down the canyon/river. We arrived at Mount Robson Park in early afternoon and secured camp site for two nights at very large Robson Meadows Campground (recommended) before it started to fill-up. We had time for a short walk from the campground along Fraser River to Overlander Falls.
