Day 62-65: Root Glacier-Wrangell St.Elias NP

August 14-17

Day 62. Finished packing our backpacks after breakfast and drove to Kennicott pedestrian bridge. We then left our car on nearby parking lot. Crossed the bridge, took shuttle to McCarthy Convenience Store and another one to Kennecott Visitor Center (as we did before). After conferring with rangers and lunch at Meatza Wagon we started easy walk up Root Glacier Trail. Considered a few camp sites and settled at a somewhat secluded/hidden between trees spot off Erie Mine Trail (on short connector between the two trails in Jumbo Creek camping area). We were close to trails, food lockers and pit toilet, and on top of lateral moraine with views down on the glaciers. We wasted no time and walked down to the ice’s edge to check access point before planned longer ice walking following day. The trail goes down steeply into the “ditch” which 100 years ago was filled with ice. We watched for a moment few people still on glacier. No problem.

The mostly “white” (exposed faster flowing ice) Root Glacier closer to us merges with and disappears underneath larger “dirty” (ice covered with layer of small rocks and dirt) Kennicott Glacier coming from behind small mountain ridge. Kennicott Glacier is 500-1000 m thick (estimate ?). Both glaciers are part of the same system coming down from ice field at the base of Mt Blackburn (4966 masl) and nearby peaks. Cracking sound (ice) can be heard frequently, sometimes quite loud.

Day 63. Micro-spikes on and walking sticks in hands, we explored the glacier for several hours, both the “white” and “dirty” parts. We adjusted to walking on ice quite quickly, meandered around bigger dips and cracks in ice, pools of standing water and small streams. We crossed the first “white” arm, climbed-up on “dirty” part in the middle and walked a bit on the other arm. Joanna walked further, but didn’t cross the ice all the way. Walking on the ice in warm sun is relaxing and does not feel overwhelming, but one never forgets how big the glacier is. Small rocks may look like frozen in a clear puddle, but ice underneath can be hundreds meters deep. Glacier is not silent: ice is cracking and small water streams rush somewhere, wind is sweeping down the mountains (rather quiet when we were there).

When we approached our camp, we saw black bear walking down a small hill 50-100 m away. We made some noise, but it stoically walked away towards other campsites. Shortly we heard horns sounding there. No danger to us, even though it for sure knew about food in lockers. Plenty of sweet berries to eat. Food lockers (worked also as tables) were good place to cook meals and meet other hikers. Open view on glacier. Quite far from tents. Joanna cooked, Piotr watched and listened to surrounding bushes.

Day 64. Short, lazy walk on the lateral moraine to see Root Glacier from higher above. Looking down one realizes how much ice is gone. The trail runs on old Erie Mine Rd (used to bring ore down), but we were too relaxed to hike up high to the mine itself. Many signs on the trail of bears feasting on berries. It was foggy weather with occasional drizzle. We walked to the big wash-out (Piotr refused to search for possible by-pass) and returned to camp. Joanna collected wild mushrooms for dinner. With no enticing camping options in McCarthy, we decided to stay another night and walk down next morning.

Day 65. On the way out we took to the air to get a good look of Wrangell Mountains and glaciers. Plenty to see on just 70 min loop around Mt Blackburn area. After walking down from Root Glacier we had barely had enough time for lunch at Meatza Wagon and shuttle ride to McCarthy airport. We flew with Wrangell Mountain Air arranged by St. Elias Alpine Guides. Pilot/guide, us and two other tourists in a 6-seater. We were lucky again to make the arrangement at last moment. Perfect weather. From airplane we could see where glaciers start on high peaks and ice fields, and then icefalls, glacier valleys, lakes and rivers. Hard to believe we walked on one of those glacier tongues.

The original plan was to now go back to Canada and visit Kluane NP, but we decided to spend a few more days exploring Wrangell Mts, this time from Nabesna Road. Two days to get there. We had enough time to drive back on McCarthy Rd to Gilahina Trestle. Camping spots at the bottom were occupied and/or not too interesting, but we noticed a little earlier small path going into the woods – railway tracks leading to the trestle used to run there. Great, quiet camping spot and history in sight.

Day 58-61: Valdez-Chitina-Kennecott-Wrangell-St. Elias NP

August 10-13

Day 58. We started the day driving on Richardson Hwy along Lowe Lakes and River, passing Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls. First stop in Valdez was at Crook Creek Information Center. We visited all these places again a day later on the way back. The weather was still fine, cloudy but no constant rain. We knew of possible accomodation problems (weekend and some big event in town). There was nothing available in reasonably priced motels. By noon we made it to Stan Stephens Glacier & Wildlife Cruises office and booked 6-hour afternoon trip to Columbia Glacier. We were quite happy with this lucky arrangement made at very last moment. We had just enough time to go to Valdez Glacier Campground to reserve a site. By 2 PM we were on the boat heading out to sea.

Bald eagles, sea otters, harbor seals, orcas and vanishing chance to see fast retreating glacier. Weather forecast: rain likely, likelihood 100%. Orcas saved this rainy and choppy cruise, it was awesome to watch them. Columbia Glacier from 1 mile away, 2nd largest tidal glacier in North America, flowing 80 feet per day! And receding very fast. It was a lot of movement on board as we were sheltering from rain inside and running outside at first sign of something interesting. Luckily our boat was not overcrowded (50% capacity or so). Everybody was outside for half an hour, wet or not, when we were watching orcas playing around. Taking pictures was not easy (cutting rain, water pouring from the roof, strong wind) – the real experience was much better than what pictures captured.

It was already past 9 PM when we made it back to town and started checking weather reports: heavy rain and wind storm was coming. We were not sure how reliable these reports were, some even calling for “shelter-in-place”. We abandoned our campground spot (lousy state of facilities was another argument against staying there) and checked-in to Valdez Airport Mancamp Hotel (large barracks). Our room was small, but clean, enough space to prepare evening snacks. New clean bathrooms. Our hosts were nice, but we had the impression they do not see too many tourists, as the hotel houses pipeline workers. It emptied for the weekend. Joanna was bothered by strong smell of petroleum product(s) used in recent renovation (?) and very loud heating system. Piotr remembered workers hotels from distant past. Just new experience. Good place to wait-out the storm. It never came.

Day 59. After short visit to misty and beautiful Valdez Glacier Lake we walked Dock Point Trail (loop around small peninsula). Watched young eagles getting ready to fly off for the first time above tidal mud flats (Duck Flats). Views on the flats and Port Valdez. In dense fog and light drizzle, we milled around Valdez: ice-free port from gold rush times through copper mining (Kennicott, our next destination) to trans-Alaska pipeline terminal. Had very good salmon rolls (at The Potato) for lunch and coffee from small booth (coffee booths are very common in Alaska, Piotr’s favorite stops). Walked along the docks towards Ferry Terminal. Just a short stop at Old Valdez (abandoned after 1964 earthquake) on the way out and we were back on scenic Richardson Hwy. We were driving by familiar spots in revers (Day 58 above and Day 57 in previous post). Stopping for photos as weather improved.

We turned on Edgerton Hwy to complete 200 km drive to Chitina. We checked-out nice rustic cabin, but it was too far from parking. Joanna somehow talked the owner of (historic) Gilpatricks Hotel (Hotel Chitina) into accepting us even though they were closed that day. We liked it and stayed there two nights. We prepared our own dinner (kitchen was closed). And we got outside with our neighbors to watch resident moose pulling out algae from the bottom of small pond.

Day 60. Slow rest day in Chitina. We crossed the bridge to get a better look at Chitina and Copper River confluence, observed novel (for us) from-shore fishing technique and talked to disappointed fishermen who were unable to go on the river because of very high water level. And we drove to O’Brien Creek on dirt road which runs where the old rail tracks used to be. Chitina was an important stop on Kennicott-Cordova line built to carry copper ore to the coast. Visited small grocery/supply store. Watching (same) moose eating lunch in a (different) pond (Chitina Town Lake) was our top activity for the day. Stopped at small liquor store. Drove again closer to Copper River, but could not find any working fishing wheels which Joanna wanted to see. By the end of the day we felt like we had talked to everybody in town and learned life story of a few.

Day 61. Our next destination was obvious – we took McCarthy Rd to Wrangell-St. Elias NP. It was 60 miles of unpaved, but quite well maintained gravel/dirt road. It runs along Chitina River valley. Slow going with nice views. Occasional remnants (bridges, trestles) of old copper ore railroad to Chitina and Cordova. In McCarthy we took a nice spot on private campground (terrible restrooms, same was true for another private campground we checked out) located within walking distance to Kennicott river pedestrian bridge. Two shuttles and we were at Kennecott Mine historical site, part of the NP. Two different spellings are used, one for the mine (with “e”), one (with “i”) for everything else. Did not go on guided tour of the mine (wrong timing), but visited several buildings open to the public.

When the mine was built in early 20th century, Kennicott Glacier and Root Glacier were some 100 m thicker/higher blocking the view of mountains on the other side of the valley and people were unaware of the big valley filled with ice in front of them, as the legend goes. Copper ore was brought down to the mill from mines located much higher on mountain slopes.

We spent the night at McCarthy campground and in the morning packed backpacks to spend couple days camping on lateral moraine of Root Glacier.

Western Canada and Alaska 2024: 103-day road trip.

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on the overview map below) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

Completed itinerary
DayDestinationsOvernight
1Jun14FriHarstad Park, Eau Claire RiverIL-WIHarstad CG
215SatVoyageurs NPMNWoodenfrog CG
316SunVoyageurs NPMNRiverFront Hotel, International Falls
417MonVoyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PPONRushing River CG
518TueKenora, Anicinabe ParkONKenora Traveloge
619WedTrans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PPMBTrans Canada Hwy wild camping
720ThuEcho Valley PPSKEcho Valley CG
821FriEcho Valley PP, Trans Canada HwySK-ABTel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
922SatDinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PPABLittle Fish CG
1023SunMidland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell MuseumABTwo Jack Main CG
1124MonBanff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, BanffABBanff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
1225TueBanff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink PotsABLake Louise (hardsided) CG
1326WedBanff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little BeehiveABLake Louise (softsided) CG
1427ThuYoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields PkwyBC-ABWaterfowl Lakes CG
1528FriIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier FallsABWaterfowl Lakes CG
1629SatBanff NP: Chephren & Cirque LakesABWaterfowl Lakes CG
1730SunBanff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya RiverABWaterfowl Lakes CG
18Jul1MonIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan GlacierABWilcox CG
192TueIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca GlacierABWilcox CG
203WedIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & FallsABJasper Becker’s Chalets
214ThuJasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose LakesABJasper Becker’s Chalets
225FriJasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander FallsAB-BCRobson Meadows CG
236SatMt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand FallsBCRobson Meadows CG
247SunYellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PPBCYellowhead Hwy wild camping
258MonYellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, KitwangaBCKitwanga Municipal CG
269TueCassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon GlacierBCGranduc Rd wild camping
2710WedStewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear GlacierAK-BCDease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
2811ThuCassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska HwyBC-YTAlaska Hwy wild camping 1
2912FriAlaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, WhitehorseYTCaribou RV PK
3013SatWhitehorse: Yukon River, Miles CanyonYTKaleido Lodge Whitehorse
3114SunKlondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose CreekYTMoose Creek CG
3215MonKlondike Hwy, Dawson City,  Diamond Tooth GertiesYTDawson City private room
3316TueDawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon RiversYTDawson City private room
3417WedYukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro DredgeYT-AKTaylor Hwy wild camping
3518ThuAlaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson HwyAKChatanika Lodge
3619FriFairbanks, ChatanikaAKChatanika Lodge
3720SatFairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana RiverAKChatanika Lodge
3821SunChena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot SpringsAKGranite Tors CG
3922MonParks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NPAKRiley Creek CG
4023TueDenali NP: Savage Alpine TrailAKRiley Creek CG
4124WedDenali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral MountainAKRiley Creek CG
4225ThuDenali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana RiverAKRiley Creek CG
4326FriParks Hwy, TalkeetnaAKTalkeetna Cabin
4427SatTalkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence MineAKEklutna Lake CG
4528SunChugach SP, Eklutna LakeAKEklutna Lake CG
4629MonEklutna, Anchorage, Ship CreekAKAnchorage Airbnb
4730TueSeward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt AlyeskaAKGranite Creek CG
4831WedChugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai LakeAKPrimrose CG
49Aug1ThuKenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding IcefieldAKResurection River wild camping
502FriResurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, SewardAKNauti Otter Inn Seward
513SatKenai Fjords NP: Northwestern GlacierAKTrail River CG
524SunPtarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai LakeAKKenai Lake wild camping
535MonKenai River (Russian River Ferry)AKCooper Creek CG
546TueRussian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward HwyAKWilliwaw CG
557WedPortage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, AnchorageAKAnchorage Airbnb
568ThuGlenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina GlacierAKLake Louise Rd wild camping
579FriRichardson Hwy, Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson PassAKSheep Creek wild camping
5810SatRichardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia GlacierAKValdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
5911SunValdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old Valdez, Richardson Hwy, Edgerton HwyAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
6012MonChitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien CreekAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
6113TueMcCarthy Rd, Kennecott, Wrangell-St. Elias NPAKMcCarthy CG
6214WedWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
6315ThuWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
6416FriWrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie MineAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
6517SatWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina TrestleAKGilahina Trestle wild camping
6618SunWrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy RdAKSnowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
6719MonWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou CreekAKKendesnii CG
6820TueWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum VolcanoAKKendesnii CG
6921WedNabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska HwyAKDeadman Lake CG
7022ThuAlaska HwyAK-YTHaines Junction Airbnb
7123FriKluane NP: King’s ThroneYTKathleen Lake CG
7224SatKluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias LakeYTKathleen Lake CG
7325SunAlaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish LakesYTConrad CG
7426MonKlondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, SkagwayYT-AKWestmark Skagway Hotel
7527TueSkagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania PointAKWestmark Skagway Hotel
7628WedKlondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska HwyYTAlaska Hwy wild camping 2
7729ThuAlaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot SpringsYT-BCToad River Community CG
7830FriToad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit LakeBCAndy Bailey CG
7931SatAlaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PPBCHeart Lake CG
80Sep1SunJohn Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince GeorgeBCPrince George Airbnb
812MonCariboo Hwy, Green LakeBCGreen Lake Arrowhead CG
823TueCariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser RiverBCNairn Falls CG
834WedWhistler: Blackcomb & Peak 2, Whistler Mt, Half Note TrailBCWhistler RV PK
845ThuSea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Langdale FerryBCPorpoise Bay CG
856FriSunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Eagle Falls, Comox Ferry, Vancouver IslandBCSeal Bay RV PK
867SatVancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay ParkBCSeal Bay RV PK
878SunStrachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle LakeBCRalph River CG
889MonComox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin FallsBCComox Airbnb
8910TueStrachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau LakesBCComox Airbnb
9011WedCatherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific TrailBCSurf Junction CG
9112ThuPacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia BayBCSurf Junction CG
9213FriPacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver FerryBCSurrey Airbnb
9314SatSurrey, Hwy I-5 & 20BC-WANewhalem Creek CG
9415SunNorth Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge damWANewhalem Creek CG
9516MonNorth Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby ArmWANewhalem Creek CG
9617TueOkanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington PassWAKlipchuck CG
9718WedDriving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee DamWA-IDCoeur d’Alene LaQuinta
9819ThuDriving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald PassID-MTHelena Baymont Hotel
9920FriDriving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, MedoraMT-NDSully Creek SP CG
10021SatT. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal VeinNDCottonwood CG
10122SunT. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & NorthNDCottonwood CG
10223MonT. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to FargoNDFargo Expressway Suites
10324TueDriving: I-94, I-90MN-WI-ILChicago

Highligts…

10 days in Mexico: Part 2 – Mexico City and Teotihuacan

January 17-23

Day 5-7: Mexico City

Day 5. After we walked over to Cuauhtémoc station, we discovered the metro line was closed. Joanna was disappointed because she looked for and chose apartment close to metro. We walked to Balderas (next stop) and took Metro 1 and then Metro 2 to Catedral Metropolitana. First experience with public transportation – very good, frequent, efficient, but information often lacking, navigating the system requires fluency in moving with local crowd, as we learned during our visit. Part of huge Zócalo (main square) was fenced off for a future event. Cathedral, also huge, built over centuries in different styles using some material from pre-Hispanic temples, quite impressive outside and inside. Towers are leaning like many heavy buildings built on ancient lake island. Later, we searched for entrance to Palacio National, as it was open to public on that day, but we circled it in wrong direction and (free) tickets were gone already for the day.

We returned to Zócalo and interesting Templo Mayor ruins. It was the main pyramid temple of Mexica/Aztec in Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City), as usual built over time in several layers, with temples of war and rain gods at the top. Remains of the pyramid and some other structures from the old days have been excavated and restored. Museum has many interesting artifacts (from the site), many offerings were buried and survived above-ground demolition.

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Since we missed murals in Palacio National, we checked excellent Murales de la Secretaría de Educación Pública (Museo Vivo del Muralismo opened in 2024) with hundreds of murals by Diego Rivera and others, surrounding several courtyards on 3 levels. Signs and directions are confusing to reinforce the idea that people should get lost here (museo vivo) and find what they like by chance. We then walked around the neighborhood a bit looking for place to eat (some restaurants were already closing) and decided to stay at nearby Restaurante Catedral for dinner (Quesadillas Vegetarianas and Taquitos del Chef). On return to Cuauhtémoc (Uber – metro was not going to our station and we had not yet figured out bus routes) we stopped at Tiendas 3B to get some basics for breakfast. We saw many food vendors around the city, but we had not yet found any better-stocked grocery stores near our accommodation.


Day 6. After days of intense sightseeing, rather than visiting more museums and historical places, we decided to spend the day just walking around. It would be hard to retrace our route precisely. We started with la Romita, once independent pre-Hispanic village, and then strayed in Roma Norte, our neighborhood, further away from home than on the first evening. Our strategy for this entire trip was to try to stroll smaller, side-streets and as many parks as possible to break more tiring (mega) city walking.

We looked-up grocery stores on map – this time we came across small, but well stocked Sumesa Colima. We looped around Plaza Río de Janeiro with small park and David statue fountain. Mercado Medellín in Roma Sur was next – now we knew where to get fruits and veggies (other stuff was of lesser interest to us on a short trip). People were friendly and relaxed, none of the hustles we experienced in markets in some other parts of the World. We saw food tours there, but Piotr was not ready for lunch at the market. Continued into La Condesa (or was it Hipodromo?), even nicer and more posh neighborhood, and rested in very pleasant Parque México – walking, sitting, watching people walking with dogs and pond with ducks and geese.

Most of the time on this trip we would buy fruits and veggies, baked goods and other food items stopping in different places as we were walking around, buying something here and something there, rather than making special grocery shopping trips. We found some items in local mini-markets, a lot of stuff at markets, learned how to find good bakeries and coffee shops. Non-diary food is hard to find – everything is con queso or con crema. Fortunately lactose-free milk is available everywhere. Here we shopped at La Espiga Panificadora to get bread and pastries for supper and breakfast.

There are many restaurants in Mexico City, hard to choose on the go, if you have only time for a few. Lunch at El Pez Azul (recommended). Simple street-side table and tasteful seafood. After lunch, we started walking along Ave Insurgenes Sur and somehow found our way home, stopping in Parque España⁩ (even more dogs around here). Piotr had to stop at the Sumesa again to get more sweets (Abrazos con Crema) and of all things Jamon Iberico for Joanna.


Day 7. We spent almost all day at Museo Nacional de Antropología and it was worth it. The museum covers a lot of ground from Olmecs and Maya to Aztecs. There are many interesting artifacts and some models (reconstructions) from different cultures. After one-day and rather fast visit it all got mixed up in our heads, as we focused more on overall picture rather than discerning historical and cultural details. We have more than 600 photos to sort through. We took Uber to get there faster in the morning and stayed until it closed. We watched dancers and voladores performing in front of the museum, and then walked into Polanco (upscale neighbourhood) checking out restaurants (on expensive side). We chose Taquería El Califa (recommended) for dinner (Gaona, Taco de Pastor, Costra Gaona, Quesadilla Champiñones Portobello, Frijoles de la Olla). Cafeteria-style, fast service, good food, not expensive. Uber home.

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«« Scroll to view more photos »»


Day 8: Mexico City and Teotihuacan

We decided to go on organized tour with Amigo Tours (recommended), so we could stop at two other sites on the way to pyramids. Uber to group meeting point at Miga Cafe . First was Tlatelolco – second Aztec city in central valley of Mexico. We looked at the ruins (similar to Templo Major), 16th century church (built with temple stones) and the earliest college in the Americas (Colegio de Santa Cruz) from large Plaza de las Tres Culturas (pre-Colombian, colonial and modern Mexican). Tragic events took place here not only during conquest: in 1968 student protests were suppressed in military massacre.

Next we went to Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe, major religious and pilgrimage site in Mexico where Virgin Mary is believed to appear to indigenous peasant Juan Diego. It is a large complex with old and modern basilicas, several chapels (mass for Polish pilgrims in one of them), including one on the hill above basilica (great views) where apparitions took place. Many religious and souvenir shops, restaurants and services outside. Not crowded on week-day, we had good look at everything and nice stroll over and on both sides of the hill.

Next was obligatory touristy stop at souvenir market, but it included good explanations (weaving, pottery, stonework) and tasting drinks made from agave (pulque, mezcal and tequila), and then lunch. We had to wait 45 min for our (essentially pre-cooked) food – way too long.

Finally we got to Teotihuacan (Zona Arqueológica). Huge ancient city was long abandoned when Aztec arrived. They gave it its name (place where gods were born) and called pyramids of Sun and Moon, but the civilization that built the city 2000 years ago remains unknown and it was discovered that rain gods were worshipped here, not Sun and Moon. City grew and flourished thanks to control and processing of obsidian.

We started exploration in ‎⁨Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl⁩ with some well preserved frescos – interesting and quite rare in ruined ancient cities. Next was impressive Moon Pyramid at the beginning of Avenue of the Dead. The guide gave very informative and engaging explanations, but a little lengthy. We briefly stopped at the largest Sun Pyramid where the tour ended (2 hours at archaeological site). We decided to stay an hour longer and return by bus on our own. Unfortunately by the time we got to Ciudadela and Templo de Quetzalcóatl the temple was already shutting down and we were not allowed to visit it up close. Still it was an interesting walk and we saw areas not included in the tour. Bus back to Indios Verde and Metro 3 to Balderas. Stopped at small Panadería Chapultepec (rolls and more pastries) on the way home.


Day 9-11: Mexico City

Day 9. Walking day in Centro again. This time we were not in a hurry and “found” Mercado Juarez just behind closed Cuauhtémoc metro station – came back in the evening to buy food. First destination of the day: Parque de la Ciudadela and Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela. The art market was surprisingly peaceful. There are many stalls packed-full with souvenirs dominated by bright, vibrant colors often emanating from clusters of objects, like small animal figurines, arranged in large numbers on shelves. Again enjoyed very relaxed interaction with sellers. Bought three small souvenirs for ourselves (cat from pictured collection, of course, and two small tiles).

And time came for colorful and large mural “Dream of a Sunday Afternoon at Alameda Central Park” at dedicated Museo Mural Diego Rivera. We spent some time there reading the explanation of who is who, rather unusual way to learn history. Then real walk across Alameda Central, the oldest park in the city and apparently in Americas, with many fountains, wide marble alleys (how they walk there when it rains?) and very clean (saw several maintenance crews).

We strolled past palaces, museums, peeked into old post office and had lunch in beautiful Casa de los Azulejos (Sanborns Madero Restaurante). Looked at modernist Torre Latinoamericana and came back to Palacio de Bellas Artes – Art Nouveau outside, beautiful Art Deco inside.

We walked to Plaza Garibaldi to end the day. A little disappointing – many mariachi bands waiting, but almost no clients and little music. We still had not figured out buses, so Uber back home. We quickly walked over to Mercado Juarez to buy bread and pastries (no time for anything else) as it closed (literally) at 7 PM – we had to find our way through stall-labyrinth to small side-gate to escape.


Day 10. Relaxing day in southern neighborhoods and many forms of transport. Metrobus 3 and Metro 2 to Tasqueña, then Train 1 (Tren Ligero) to Xochimilco – less polished neighborhood where we visited market, checked-out a few boat docks (trajinera embarcaderos) and settled on Salitre. Very nice 1-hour slow ride on canals from Aztec times between houses and chinampas – floating gardens and fields. Lunch: tlacoyos (thick tortillas with beans and chicken) delivered to our boat from restaurant on one of the islands.

Tren Ligero back to Las Torres and Uber to Plaza de la Conchita in Coayacan. Very nice neighborhood with several plazas, parks and houses of Cortez (one for La Malinche, his native mistress), Frida Kahlo and Trotsky. Had coffee and hot chocolate, sat at Plaza Coyoacán (Jardin Centenarian) and Plaza Jardin Hidalgo, visited San Juan church, found Frida mural. Finally, walked through Mitikah Centro Comercial to Metro 3 (Coyoatan to Balderas). Stopped again at Mercado Juarez Cuauhtémoc to buy fruits and veggies. Joanna cooked dinner at home.


Day 11. We jumped on first RTP bus heading to Bosque de Chapultepec. Did not really have enough time for everything and decided to skip Museo Nacional de Historia Castillo de Chapultepec. Instead we walked full circle in the park around the hill, starting with visit at Museo de Arte Moderno: sculpture garden and all galleries where we finally saw a few Frida’s paintings. Then fountains, monuments, archaeological sites (aqueduct, baths), lakes and squirrels, followed by short walk and coffee in Polanco. It was quite slow and lazy day until it was time to go to the airport. We ran for RTP bus, picked-up our backpacks and took Uber to airport, enough time left for late lunch. We landed at ORD almost at midnight ready for cold weather (it was really cold in Chicago: down to -20ºC, when we enjoyed Mexican sun: mid 20s ºC), quick Lift ride and we were back home.

During our time in Mexico City we traveled northeast from the center (Roma Norte) to Teotihuacan and another time south to Xochimilco across the city (straight-line distance of ca. 40 plus 20 km) and realized how big the 20-million people metropolitan area is. Great majority of buildings are small, but densely packed. With some effort and planning it looks like park all around though, very walkable, We liked it. We were surprised how different each district was, the city felt like a conglomerate of separate towns (which they were in the past), each with its own main square, parks, markets etc. and distinct character. Combination of public transport and Uber (fast, inexpensive) made moving around easy.

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