July 6-9
Heading north from The Rockies we decided to travel northeast from Prince George towards the Ocean, Stewart (CA) and Hyder (AK). The original plan was to first go north towards Dawson creek and Fort Nelson. Overall the same loop, but in opposite direction. In Kitwanga we changed from Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy to Stewart-Cassiar Hwy.
Full day in Mt Robson Provincial Park hiking along Robson River to Kinney Lake and Valley of Thousand Falls. 22 km (return) with 490 m total elevation gain. Despite the length of the hike, it was relaxing day. Walking on good trails, sometimes uphill, crossing gravel flats, along the river and the lake. Water color was very interesting, changing throughout the day and depending on viewing angle. Glacial-opaque and from light to intense blue-green. Contrasting green forest and gray rocks above water, then mountain tops covered with snow and white clouds on blue sky. Our photos actually tell the truth. We did not make it all the way through Valley of Thousand Falls, as that looked like requiring bushwhacking beyond trail wash-out point. We returned to Robson Meadows campground quite tired at the end of long day. We already had a spot reserved there.
We are now moving along Yellowhead (Trans Canada) Hwy from Rearguard Falls in the morning to wild camping near Zelkwas Lake, 40 km past Prince George. With longer stop along the way to visit Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park.
The day was very hot and walking under old big trees (hundreds-years old western redcedars) was quite a relief. Humid as in all rainforests. The Provincial Park was set-up to preserve remnants of pristine ancient forest, the only inland temperate rainforest in the world, which somehow survived logging. The redcedars are very big and tall, difficult to photograph, much more impressive in real life.
We continued moving along Yellowhead Hwy to Vanderhoof (excellent Tourism and Cultural Centre and small museum nearby), Ksan Village (museum/skansen was closed), Hagwilget Bridge, Hazelton and Kitwanga (Gitwangak Totem Poles). The day was about visiting small towns and native villages with interesting history and getting a good look at many totem poles. We had no luck with museums but had a look at old houses from the outside. Old Hazelton (Village) has some small buildings remaining from the old days and intesting bridge on the way from New Hazelton. With no time to drive anymore, we decided to stay at small Kitwanga Municipal campground, right in the village. Next morning we stopped at Gitwangak Battle Hill National Historic Site and spent couple of hours walking around more totem poles in Gitanyow (Historic Village and Interpretative Center was closed), before driving 200 km to Stewart (next post).
The poles are of different age as the tradition to carve them continues. Some poles stand in the same place where important villages used to be, like in Gitanyow on Kitwanga River. Some are on display in Ksan Village skansen. Some are replicas of originals now in big museums. We did not get a chance to talk to anybody there, but we liked the art and culture experience.
