Day 13 (afternoon).
The ferry ride from Blanc-Sablon to Saint Barbe was short and quite comfortable. By the time we arrived wind was strong and our boat waited for a while for quieter moment to dock. Despite wind, rain and cold we walked (in rain pants and ponchos) short Marjorie Bridge & Thrombolites Walking Trail at Flowers Cove, located some 20 km from St Barbe. We then continued in light rain on Rte 430 until sunset. We found a decent spot on little pond (gravel pit) just past Eddies Cove. No weather for cooking dinner, just quick snacks and hope for sunny morning coffee.
That also meant new task: photographing rocks and fossils, starting with thrombolites.
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☞ Larger-size photos in nature gallery
Day 14.
Sunny weather returns. We are heading east and then north-east to L’Anse aux Meadows to learn what Vikings were doing there. North part of Newfoundland has some of the remoteness we felt in Newfoundland and Labrador. First stop at Dark Tickle shop in St Lunaire. Too early – no coffee served yet (10:30 am ?). We watched bakeapple (cloudberry) preserves being made “home-style” (we bought a small jar). An hour later we were at the archeological site (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – the only firmly confirmed Norse settlement in North America, also occupied earlier by indigenous people. We joined good guided tour, visited “Viking Settlement” exhibition and park museum, finished by walking short loop along the coast and through meadows.
In the afternoon we drove back the same way we came and then north-west to Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve near Raleigh to look for rare plants among rock barrens. With substantial lunch on the way at The Daily Catch restaurant (recommended) in St Lunaire-Griquet – probably best seafood of the enitre trip. Simple but great freshness and taste: cod gratin, seafood chowder and black mussles. Good french bread to go. Good location right on the coast (Rte 436).
We arrived at the Reserve not really knowing what to expect – we first parked at the entrance only to learn we can explore it by car so we drove to the end of the gravel road. It is open, barren land on top of high, rocky cliff with waves breaking below. Sun was already low, but gray clouds moving in pushed it even lower and wind was howling. Quite a scenery. We looked around for a while, Joanna investigated interesting pockets of vegetation.
It was already getting dark when we started making our way south. By the time we arrived at Main Brook Park campground the office was already closed, but the owner who lives nearby came to check us in, and was kind to wait while we took quick shower. Great!
End of very long day.
Day 15.
We now continue driving on Rte 432 west across the island and then on Rte 430 south along Gulf of St Lawrence coast line. Just before Eddies Cove West we turned on local road towards the coast and parked for a break on gravel lot used to store lobster traps. Piotr had time for driver’s nap, Joanna investigated fossils on the rocky shore. Port au Choix was next, first to get some bread baked in french oven typical for this part of the country (too early for live demonstartion though), followed by visit to Phillip’s garden for a walk and finally Pointe Riche lighthouse. We also stopped at French Rooms Cultural Center. No luck spotting whales, but we watched small (resident) caribou herd grazing near the lighthouse (surprisingly tourists did not approach the animals to take selfies). We managed short dash on Limestone Barrens trail, fried seafood dinner at Point Riche restaurant and quick look at fishing port in Port au Choix. It was time to go. Driving along the coast near water as the sun was setting down was very pleasant, but no time for breaks.
We tried to find camping spot off Rte 430. Two recommendations on iOverlander (one was already packed the other was in small park where local people go for walks with their dogs) and a couple of side-dirt-roads with no luck. At least we saw black bear with two cubs while away from main road. It was already dark, almost 9 pm, when we decided to move on and go to Arches Provincial Park – parking lot there was our fall-back plan. 3 other cars were asleep already when we arrived. We took a spot closest to shore. It was nice place to be as we discovered in the morning. And just 10 miles from Gros Morne National Park.
Another long day.
