Western Canada and Alaska road trip 2024

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on overview map) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Western Canada and Alaska Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). We hiked/walked more than 300 km.

Completed itinerary
Day   Destinations Overnight
1Jun14FriHarstad Park, Eau Claire RiverIL-WIHarstad CG
2 15SatVoyageurs NPMNWoodenfrog CG
3 16SunVoyageurs NPMNRiverFront Hotel, International Falls
4 17MonVoyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PPONRushing River CG
5 18TueKenora, Anicinabe ParkONKenora Traveloge
6 19WedTrans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PPMBTrans Canada Hwy wild camping
7 20ThuEcho Valley PPSKEcho Valley CG
8 21FriEcho Valley PP, Trans Canada HwySK-ABTel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
9 22SatDinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PPABLittle Fish CG
10 23SunMidland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell MuseumABTwo Jack Main CG
11 24MonBanff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, BanffABBanff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
12 25TueBanff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink PotsABLake Louise (hardsided) CG
13 26WedBanff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little BeehiveABLake Louise (softsided) CG
14 27ThuYoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields PkwyBC-ABWaterfowl Lakes CG
15 28FriIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier FallsABWaterfowl Lakes CG
16 29SatBanff NP: Chephren & Cirque LakesABWaterfowl Lakes CG
17 30SunBanff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya RiverABWaterfowl Lakes CG
18Jul1MonIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan GlacierABWilcox CG
19 2TueIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca GlacierABWilcox CG
20 3WedIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & FallsABJasper Becker’s Chalets
21 4ThuJasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose LakesABJasper Becker’s Chalets
22 5FriJasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander FallsAB-BCRobson Meadows CG
23 6SatMt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand FallsBCRobson Meadows CG
24 7SunYellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PPBCYellowhead Hwy wild camping
25 8MonYellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, KitwangaBCKitwanga Municipal CG
26 9TueCassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon GlacierBCGranduc Rd wild camping
27 10WedStewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear GlacierAK-BCDease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
28 11ThuCassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska HwyBC-YTAlaska Hwy wild camping 1
29 12FriAlaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, WhitehorseYTCaribou RV PK
30 13SatWhitehorse: Yukon River, Miles CanyonYTKaleido Lodge Whitehorse
31 14SunKlondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose CreekYTMoose Creek CG
32 15MonKlondike Hwy, Dawson City,  Diamond Tooth GertiesYTDawson City private room
33 16TueDawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon RiversYTDawson City private room
34 17WedYukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro DredgeYT-AKTaylor Hwy wild camping
35 18ThuAlaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson HwyAKChatanika Lodge
36 19FriFairbanks, ChatanikaAKChatanika Lodge
37 20SatFairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana RiverAKChatanika Lodge
38 21SunChena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot SpringsAKGranite Tors CG
39 22MonParks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NPAKRiley Creek CG
40 23TueDenali NP: Savage Alpine TrailAKRiley Creek CG
41 24WedDenali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral MountainAKRiley Creek CG
42 25ThuDenali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana RiverAKRiley Creek CG
43 26FriParks Hwy, TalkeetnaAKTalkeetna Cabin
44 27SatTalkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence MineAKEklutna Lake CG
45 28SunChugach SP, Eklutna LakeAKEklutna Lake CG
46 29MonEklutna, Anchorage, Ship CreekAKAnchorage Airbnb
47 30TueSeward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt AlyeskaAKGranite Creek CG
48 31WedChugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai LakeAKPrimrose CG
49Aug1ThuKenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding IcefieldAKResurection River wild camping
50 2FriResurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Seward AKNauti Otter Inn Seward
51 3SatKenai Fjords NP: Northwestern GlacierAKTrail River CG
52 4SunPtarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai LakeAKKenai Lake wild camping
53 5MonKenai River (Russian River Ferry)AKCooper Creek CG
54 6TueRussian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward HwyAKWilliwaw CG
55 7WedPortage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, AnchorageAKAnchorage Airbnb
56 8ThuGlenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina GlacierAKLake Louise Rd wild camping
57 9FriRichardson Hwy, Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson PassAKSheep Creek wild camping
58 10SatRichardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia GlacierAKValdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
59 11SunValdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old Valdez, Richardson Hwy, Edgerton HwyAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
60 12MonChitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien CreekAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
61 13TueMcCarthy Rd, Kennecott, Wrangell-St. Elias NPAKMcCarthy CG
62 14WedWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
63 15ThuWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
64 16FriWrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie MineAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
65 17SatWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina Trestle AKGilahina Trestle wild camping
66 18SunWrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy RdAKSnowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
67 19MonWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou CreekAKKendesnii CG
68 20TueWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum VolcanoAKKendesnii CG
69 21WedNabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska HwyAKDeadman Lake CG
70 22ThuAlaska HwyAK-YTHaines Junction Airbnb
71 23FriKluane NP: King’s ThroneYTKathleen Lake CG
72 24SatKluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias LakeYTKathleen Lake CG
73 25SunAlaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish LakesYTConrad CG
74 26MonKlondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, SkagwayYT-AKWestmark Skagway Hotel
75 27TueSkagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania PointAKWestmark Skagway Hotel
76 28WedKlondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska HwyYTAlaska Hwy wild camping 2
77 29ThuAlaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot SpringsYT-BCToad River Community CG
78 30FriToad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit LakeBCAndy Bailey CG
79 31SatAlaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PPBCHeart Lake CG
80Sep1SunJohn Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince GeorgeBCPrince George Airbnb
81 2MonCariboo Hwy, Green LakeBCGreen Lake Arrowhead CG
82 3TueCariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser RiverBCNairn Falls CG
83 4WedWhistler: Blackcomb & Whistler Mt, Half Note TrailBCWhistler RV PK
84 5ThuSea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Horseshoe Bay to Langdale FerryBCPorpoise Bay CG
85 6FriSunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Earls Cove to Saltery Bay Ferry, Eagle River Falls, Power River to Comox Ferry, Vancouver IslandBCSeal Bay RV PK
86 7SatVancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay ParkBCSeal Bay RV PK
87 8SunStrachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle LakeBCRalph River CG
88 9MonComox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin FallsBCComox Airbnb
89 10TueStrachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau LakesBCComox Airbnb
90 11WedCatherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific TrailBCSurf Junction CG
91 12ThuPacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia BayBCSurf Junction CG
92 13FriPacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver FerryBCSurrey Airbnb
93 14SatSurrey, Hwy I-5 & 20BC-WANewhalem Creek CG
94 15SunNorth Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge damWANewhalem Creek CG
95 16MonNorth Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby ArmWANewhalem Creek CG
96 17TueOkanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington PassWAKlipchuck CG
97 18WedDriving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee DamWA-IDCoeur d’Alene LaQuinta
98 19ThuDriving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald PassID-MTHelena Baymont Hotel
99 20FriDriving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, MedoraMT-NDSully Creek SP CG
100 21SatT. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal VeinNDCottonwood CG
101 22SunT. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & NorthNDCottonwood CG
102 23MonT. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to FargoNDFargo Expressway Suites
103 24TueDriving: I-94, I-90MN-WI-ILChicago

We like our converted Subaru and it works well for two as transportation (normal, small car) and camper (even if minimalistic). Roof cargo box lowers fuel efficiency on highways, but streamlines daily packing and “day-night-day” switch. Subaru life took some practicing and adjustments.

We traveled 26800 miles during ☞ 6 long road trips, plus some shorter trips. We drove more often on unpaved not so good, bumpy and dusty roads which accelerated wear on mechanical systems. It all cought-up with us on this long trip. We had problems with breaks (fixed in Kenora) and tires (fixed in Fairbanks), and ran into first signs of worn suspension-bearings (diagnosed in Surrey, fixed in Chicago after the trip). Rotated tires in Bellingham. Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

Piotr spent quite a bit of time designing, building and testing our Subaru minimalistic camper which made the road trips possible.

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

Highligts…

Eastern Canada road trip 2023

August 19-September 24

Our second road trip of 2023 (after ☞ Puerto Rico) took us on 37-day, 6000-mile loop around Eastern Canada, heading out via Detroit and returning via Cleveland. We crossed 10 states (IL, IN, MI, NY, ME, NH, VT, NY, PA, OH) and 6 provinces: Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland & Labrador, Nova Scotia, Prince Edwards Island and New Brunswick. Traveling Trans-Labrador Highway was the initial impulse for the entire trip. We had a general idea where to go, did research about places to visit and possible O/N sites, but the rest was left to daily decisions (no reservations).

Eastern Canada map

We drove fairly quickly to Baie-Comeau QC. Short stop on the way at Pointe-Noire to watch belugas reminded us ☞ Quebec 2009 trip. Driving was easy as Trans-Labrador Highway was in excellent condition and even the unpaved section of Rt 389 were not bad. Vast, sparsely inhabited expanse of taiga and tundra, and very light traffic preserve Labrador’s remote feel. Landscape is very interesting. Vegetation was surprisingly green and dense, even lush, although growth of everything (except mushrooms) is stunted. There are beautiful lakes, rivers and marshes, but nowhere to stop for a break, except at the road’s edge, or to get a good view, except stopping in the middle of bridges. Most side-dirt-roads, road-side parking lots or post-road-construction sites are neither interesting nor the kind of places one wants to explore. The rest of the trip was easier in this respect.

Scenery was changing all the time: from Great Lakes to St Lawrence River, to Labrador’s interior to Gulf of St Lawrence and Atlantic coast. Many lakes, rivers, streams and fjords. Taiga (boreal forest), tundra, beaches, coastal cliffs and barrens. Some mountains and hills. Interesting rock formations. We saw four black bears (they do not seem to cause problems for campers), 1/2 moose, a heard of 12+1 caribou, one fox, many squirrels and birds, a few dozen pilot whales plus one larger whale (?) far away and several beluga pods.

We had really good weather most of the time. A few nights with colder temps and several rainy days. Despite late in the season, we were hit by flies in multiple locations, two layers of clothing and mosquito nets helped (to some degree) and once by swarms of really nasty mosquitos. Moderate, passing rain during the day or rain, even heavy, at night was not a problem, but substantial rain made packing our car=camper quite a wet experience on one occasion. And we were on collision course with remnants of Hurricane Lee, which passed over our heads on Prince Edward Island. We spent the night in rented cottage just in case, but it was just rain and some gusty wind. We are getting better finding wild camping sites on our own. We had no problems with car travel/camping, but we have some new ideas how to improve/streamline operations before next trip. As it was later in the season, we had no problem finding space in National/Provincial Park capmgrounds or in inns/cottages.

Completed itinerary
Main destinationOvernight
Aug19Sat1OntarioONBig Bend
20Sun2Darlington PPONDarlington
21Mon3Rideau Canal Kingston MillsONMille Roches
22Tue4Thousand Island NPQCPetite River
23Wed5Massif de CharlevoixQCPetite River
24Thu6Pointe-NoireQCLes Dinosaures du Quai De Ragueneau
25Fri7Lac ManicouaganQCLac Manicouagan Rt 389
26Sat8Uapishka Biodiversity ReserveNLTwo Seasons Labrador City
27Sun9Churchill FallsNLCamp Rt 500 Happy Valley
28Mon10Happy Valley-Goose BayNLCamp 1 Rt 510
29Tue11Mary’s HarbourNLCamp 2 Rt 510
30Wed12Saddle IslandNLGrenfell Louie Forteau
31Thu13Thrombolites Flowers CoveNLCamp Rt 430
Sep1Fri14L’Anse aux MeadowsNLMain Brook
2Sat15Pointe RicheNLArches
3Sun16West Brook PondNLBarry Hill
4Mon17Gros Morne SummitNLBarry Hill
5Tue18Gros Morne NPNLTrout River
6Wed19Green Gardens/TablelandsNLLomond
7Thu20Cape St GeorgeNLInn at the Cape
8Fri21Boutte du Cap TrailNLCamp Rt 480
9Sat22RameaNLSandbanks
10Sun23Sandbanks PPNLFerry to Cape Breton
11Mon24Cabot Trail/Cape BretonNSMountain View Motel Pleasant Bay
12Tue25Skyline TrailNSCheticamp
13Wed26Salmon Pools Rd TrailNSWhycocomagh
14Thu27CharlottetownPECavendish
15Fri28PEI NPPECavendish
16Sat29Green GablesPEDreamweavers Cottage North Rustico
17Sun30Hopewell Rocks PPNBThe Shire
18Mon31Fundy NPNBChignecto
19Tue32New River Beach PPMEFogg Brook Resort Palmyra
20Wed33Lobster Cooker FreeportVTCamp George D Aiken Wilderness
21Thu34Vermont Long TrailNYOneonta KOA Journey Unadilla
22Fri35Erie Bluffs SPOHBroadview Heights
23Sat36Cuyahoga Valley NPOHBroadview Heights
24Sun37HomeILChicago

Michigan Upper Peninsula day 6-11: Porcupine Mountains

Second part of our trip focused on 4D/3N 29-mile backcountry hike in ☞ Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. When we arrived the night before, we knew weather front with continous rain would be coming through just on the first day of hiking. Very patient ranger at ☞ Porcupine Mountains Visitor Center was able to change reservations of all campsites for one day later and found us a spot at Lost Creek Outpost Campground (recommended) for the extra day. We were waiting the bad weather out. We drove to Lake of the Clouds overlook – the view was completly blocked by wall of fog, and we walked a short loop around long abandoned Union (copper) Mine in light rain. It rained pretty much the rest of the day.

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Our new canopy gave us decent protection. We killed time cooking and relaxing, showered (again) in the evening. It all worked out very well. The rain passed during the night and we had nice, mostly sunny weather for the rest of the trip.

The first hiking day was quite easy 7.5 miles along Little Carp River (dry crossing) all the way to the Lake Superior and then along the coast to our campsite. We left our car at trailhead parking lot and ate early lunch there. Despite late start we had enough time to soak (quickly, although it was warmer than we expected) in the lake , cook dinner and end the day with camp fire. Great campsite right on the lake shore and away from others, beatiful sunset, very calm weather – no wind at all. Bear pole (to hang food) was quite a ditanstance away and completly bent – probably a motivated bear could get to food.

Next day was another 7.5-mile hike: to and then upstream Big Carp River. First half of the hike was along the river (with wet crossing) and then we walked on top of high escrapment with the river meandering in the valley below. We camped on the edge of the escrapment – beatiful location, although very close to trail (trail was pasing through “cooking and dining” area). Joanna wanted to camp right on the edge, but Piotr was affraid of possible strong wind (didn’t come) – so we camped a little back near trees, but still open to cliffs. Many spots to choose. Piotr hung our food very high on a tree – far from trunk, far from ground. We had great views when hiking this day and from our camp: looking backwards we could see at some points Lake Superior (we came from this direction) and looking forward we could see Lake of the Clouds. Forest on the hills was still very green with only a hint of Fall colors. Sunset was colorful. In the morning the valley was at first filled with fog coming from Lake of the Clouds, which than disappeared quickly as the sun was coming up higher – magical.

On the last two days in the backcountry we hiked 8.5 and 5.5 miles. We started by walking on the escarpment to the Lake of the Clouds viewpoint, hung our backpacks on a tree and continued for a while on the high trail above the lake. We came back to collect our backpacks and walk down to the river lake outlet. We hiked back up on the other side of the valley through hills and wetlands to Mirror Lake. Before we settled in our cabin, we conoed across the lake and Joanna went for a swim near a rock outcrop there. We started fire in wood stove to heat the cabin and cook dinner. The cabin was very nice and it came with a canoe – the main reason to stay there. With sunny, warm and calm weather next morning, we decided to spend a couple of hours canoeing slowly around the lake. The hike back to our car was easy, passing beautiful Lily Pond and some wetlands. We arrived at Presque Isle Campground quite early (nice location but sites cramped next to each other), after a short stop to view Manabezho Falls. We collected a big bunch of firewood in nearby forest, dipped in the lake on stony beach just below the campground, dinner and camp fire.

In the morning, we walked a loop from Presque Isle (red) Beach, east and west river trails around multiple waterfalls. We then drove to the end of passable side forest road and spent some time exploring Lepisto and Iagoo Falls – the most remote on this trip. Started driving 430 miles home in the afternoon.

Michigan Upper Peninsula day 1-5: Pictured Rocks

Our first trip to Michigan Upper Peninsula was very nice and relaxing. 1180 miles of driving, 65 miles of walking in total plus a few miles in canoe. This time around we were organized a bit better and mostly packed the day before the trip. Still driving 405 miles to Little Beaver Lake in ☞ Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore was slow. Piotr was tired and we had to stop multiple time for short breaks, sometimes in nice spots along Lake Michigan. We traveled in this part of the Upper Peninsula north of Green Bay for the first time.

We arrived at small Little Beaver Lake Campground, forested but with sites close to one another, quite late. We had reservation, so it was not a big deal. Next morning we were ready for our first hike: 8.5 miles around Little Beaver Lake and Beaver Lake, down Beaver Creek to Lake Superior, west along Twelvemile Beach towards Spray Falls (though did not make it that far), returning to Little Beaver Lake and our campground. We were learning how to cross-over between the trail running on top of the cliff and sandy beach. And we were adding miles (throughout this entire trip) hiked on North Country Trail, our favorite.

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Water in Lake Superior was surprisingly warm and had intense, changing color. Our pictures do not lie – it looked like a tropical sea, not a northern lake. In the evening we moved to Upper Hurricane River Campground for three nights.

Next morning we drove to Chapel Falls trailhead and walked 10.5-mile loop to Mosquito Falls and Mosquito Beach, Grand Portal Rock, Chapel Beach and Rock, Chapel Falls. Beatiful views of the clifs and turquoise water. Many people, but this was Memorial Day weekend and great weather. On the way back to our campground, we stopped for a short sunset walk on Twelvemile Beach near Lake Superior (Sulivan Creek) Overlook.

Day four, we drove very short distabce to Huricane River parking lot and walked 9 miles (return) to Au Sable Light Station, investigating ship wrecks clearly visible close to shore, than continued to steep Grand Sable Dunes (log slide point), returning the same way and finishing the day at sunset on the beach near Huricane River outlet. During lunch time at the Sable log slide we discussed extensively rolling down the slide to the lake shore, but did not do it.

The following day, we drove 230 miles to Porcupine Mountains after visiting Miners Beach and two short breaks on the way to walk to Munsing Falls and Canyon Falls. We enjoyed sunny and mild weather the first five days of the trip and we loved the scenery. It would be nice to backpack the whole lenghth of Pictured Rocks Lakeshore, but we were late to planning and happy to score any campsites at all.

We arrived quite early at ☞ Porcupine Mountains Visitor Center to check-in for one night at Union River Outpost Campground. We had to come back next morning to get backcountry permit, but a bigger problem was brewing: serious rain sweeping through the area the following 24 hours. We spent the evening preping for the multi-day hike, packing and waterproofing our backpacks, eating extra calories and taking extra long shower at Union Bay Campground. The rain came late next morning.

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