Nepal day 4-5: Phaplu-Taksindu-Jubing (Trekking Day 1-2)

Phaplu at the end of paved road and with small airstrip is one of the entry points to the Khumbu (Everest) region. Most people fly to Lukla further up Dudh Koshi (river) to shorten their walk to EBC or Gokyo, but supplies and luggage is often carried by porters and mules from Phaplu or Nunthala.

We are on the move. First, it was an easy and relaxing walk on mountain road along broad valley to small village Ringmu. We were passed by only 3 or 4 jeeps carrying porters with their load heading to Nunthala. The jeep road under construction ended there when we visited. We met only 4 hikers with backpacks. In Ringmu we joined popular trail from Jiri (marked with orange circles, other trails we walked were not marked, but navigation was easy).

Then we hiked up on paved steep trail over Taksindu La (pass, 3066 masl) to Taksindu. It was as far as we could walk on the first day, although the original plan was to push on to Nunthala. Somehow we could not stick to the original plan to walk a few extra kms to Chiwong the day before, even though we arrived in Phaplu surprisingly early. And now we were half a day behind our plan. We stayed at nicely renovated Taksindu Resort Lodge. We visited Taksindu Gompa (monastery) and watched a bit the evening puja, and then walked around again in the morning.

Taksindu Monastery

The following day we rolled down to Dudh Koshi = leg-tiring 1400 m drop in altitude, and after crossing the river and walking up the hill for a while, we parked for the night at Gorkhali Lodge in Jubing. On the way, we stopped in Nunthala for lunch and to break long descent. Jubing is a nice village with green fields and flowers, good dal bhat with unusual local veggies at the lodge. We walked 23 km the first two days.

Nepal day 3: Kathmandu to Phaplu

We drove 10 hours from Kathmandu to Phaplu in jeep with 9 people packed like sardines (it was’n too bad). Started the day at 4:30 picked-up by the driver near our apartment, left Chabahil Chowk around 5:30 AM and arrived in Phaplu around 3:30 PM.  Part of the road is quite scenic, along a river and then up out of the valley traversing steep slopes. No time to stop for pictures, only a short break for lunch at road-side restaurant. We parked for the night at a small hotel across the street from Phaplu airport (not good for the price, toilet outside). The following day we started walking towards higher ground – day one of trekking.

Nepal day 1-2: Kathmandu, prep for the trek

We have one full day – two nights to prepare for the trek. Our apartment is in a small building between Sorhakhutte and Pakanajol, on the border with Thamel. We went by taxi to Chabahil bus stop to buy tickets for jeep to Phaplu, did some shopping and rested in a tourist cafe in Thamel, wondered around a bit. We got first view of snow-covered peaks, just before sunset. We start next morning at 3 am. Hope to have some internet connection on the trail.

Qatar, on the way to Nepal

It is a long trip to Kathmandu: ORD-DOH-KTM = 14820 km, 17:40 hrs flying time (13:15+4:25), 20:50 hrs on the way back. We are breaking-up the trip staying over-night in Doha in hotel on the west side of town. We arrived one hour late,  but still had time for a quick walk along the water front, Doha Corniche Promenade,  from the park by the sea and Museum of Islamic Art to Souq Waqif for dinner, walking around more after dinner. In retrospect, clean room, clean bathroom, shower with hot water, good food before life on the trail. We talked with friendly restaurant owner who posed for picture and we got the final push with free upgrade to business class on the flight to Khatmandu.

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