Category: USA

Ruta Panorámica runs 250 km from Maunabo in Southeast to Mayagüez in the West,  but we had one day to cover only 60-km PR143-section between Barranquitas and Adjuntas. We first drove quickly to Cidra and then followed PR172 and PR156 (already interesting) to Mirador Suñé (Barranquitas) for a quick look at Cañón San Cristóbal. A short drive later we joined Ruta Panorámica proper. The road winds along the central mountain range (Cordillera Central) most of the time staying on top of the hills/ridges with great views on surrounding forest, fields and small villages. The green had many shades from bright and yellowish in full sun to dark and bluish when the sky was overcast. We made several stops on the way: in Barranquitas, at a  small store looking for some food (not much choice), at  Al Horno Bakery & Coffee Shop for lunch break for good coffee and sweets (recommended), at Mirador Orocovis-Villalba, at Charco de los Suspiros to hike to Torre de Toro Negro (5.5-km loop), and at El Banquillo (best views). We followed PR10/ PR123 to  PR111  in Utuado and then to comfortable Mi Casita (recommended) with wonderful hosts, our base for 3 night, across the road from Capilla Perpetuo Socorro just off PR611 (winding and narrow).

Excellent practice of driving on narrow, winding roads with many potholes – all day just  135 km, not rushed. We had enough time for hikes which proved excellent: a short and well maintened Vereda Suñé to see a deep Cañón San Cristóbal and a longer trail in Toro Negro rainforest, much less popular than El Yunque. All tourist amenities (information, bathrooms, picknic areas) were closed at all viewpoints and trails but parking and limited number of trails were available.

Cañón San Cristóbal, view from Mirador Suñé

View from Torre de Toro Negro

Next day we made a trip to Rio Tanamá to kayak through Cueva El Portillo and then walk in the river and swim to Cueva Del Arco. The kayaking part was with a large group, but the second part was just us and our guide. We just wished the river exploration and swimming part was longer. The tour was very well organized by ☞ Batey Adventures (recommended ☞ TA review). Edwin, our guide, turn out to be also a gifted naturalist with good knowledge of local nature and very easy to interact with. After the tour, we walked across the street (PR111) from Batey’s office to Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center to learn about Taino past. Interesting archeological site and small botanical garden (recommended). We continued west on PR111 to Lares to try rosted pork at Lechonera Rancho T (very good), Piotr explored Heladería Lares and we walked around the town center to check out some murals. When we came back to Mia Casite we finally got to see coqui that we heard everywhere, all the time.

El Yunque National Forest (☞ reservation required) has the tropical magic: rainforest, fast moving low clouds, fog, passing drizzles and green vegetation.  On the way from Fajardo, we took really local road (google map challenge): narrow, winding, with potholes, but luckily no traffic. We drove to the last parking lot on PR 191. Trail status was not clear, what was closed, what had been opened. We started on the El Yunque Peak trail only to learn at the junction that the last section was closed. We walked to Los Picachos instead – very nice trail with a good viewpoint – and returned the same way with a short detour to Mt Britton Tower. We stopped a few times along PR 191 on the way back to visit historic pools/baths (long closed) and observation towers (open) constructed by Civilian Conservation Corps in 1930s and some small waterfalls. We arrived at Luquillo at what looked like serious rush hour – of course, we wanted to check out Kioskos. We had  dinner there and a quick swim at a very popular beach, and then beating heavy local traffic we came back to Fajardo.

It was now time to go back and visit San Juan old town. Prep work paid off – we quickly found our way to paid parking lot near the harbor ($3 per day), just where we wanted to be.  Street parking may be permitted in this part of town, but looked impossible. And we walked – first outside city walls on a lovely path along the bay, via San Juan gate near La Fortaleza and to Castillo San Felipe del Morro. After exploring the fortress we wandered through the old town, visiting beautiful gardens of Casa Blanca and to Castillo San Cristobal, another fortress on the oposite side of old town, both with great views of town and sea. We drove to Caguas in the evening to be closer to Ruta Panoramica next morning.

We arrived at SJU on time (~ 5 pm), took  bus T5 (running from the airport to old San Juan, $ 0.75+0.25, coins only) and checked-in to our Super Cozy Apartment in Isla Verde (Carolina) on Cll Venus (recommended). Enough time left to swim and walk at sunset on the closest beach. On the way back we picked-up some groceries at SuperMax  and settled at The New Ceviche for Peruvian food: ceviche and mariscos.

The following morning started with a small disappointment as the pickup shuttle promised by rental company never came. We decided for a brisk walk (~2km) rather than to wait for the bus. The rental process was quick and efficient (yes, we asked how to open the car trunk and were reminded to release parking break) and we were on our way to ☞ Ceiba-Vieques ferry terminal. Decided to avoid toll roads. We parked our car at paid Smart Parking and made it to the terminal (free shuttle) just in time for pre-boarding. It was the slower, larger ferry carrying cars (for Vieques residents and businesses only) –  smooth 1-hour sailing ($4+$2 plus $2 for one piece of luggage, round trip). Michelle, our host, picked us up for a 6-km transfer to Esperanza to our cottage Artist Studio at Casa Esperanza on Cll Orquideas (recommended). She was loaded with energy and good info – based on her advice and our earlier research we quickly decided on what to do on the island (walking – no driving).

But the evening was all about bioluminescence – one of the main impulses behind our decision to visit Vieques (Puerto Rico).  Joanna decided to go with ☞ JAK Water Sports (recommended ☞ TA review) on 8:15 pm  kayak (clear bottom) tour ($60 per person). Michelle recommended them too. Light pollution (sunset time, moon phase, cloud cover) and group size were the key considerations. We had good combination of the conditions and very good guides (but group was larger than what we were told). We decided to leave our phone behind and enjoy the “show” without wasting time trying to capture perfect pictures. It was beautiful and fascinating – million sparkles whenever water was moved by hand, paddle, big fish or ran under kayak’s transparent bottom. Next day was 14-km beach hopping walk (longest of the trip) with snorkeling and swimming. Snorkeling around pier remnants was quite nice (when there were no ther people around the first time; Joanna tried one more time but pier was occupied by a large crowd) – we could quickly see more than a dozen different fish species (probably more for a trained eye). We ended the day at Rancho Choli (recommended) for Piotr’s birthday dinner.

There is no trail connecting Esperanza to the Playa Negra trailhead on PR 201. With little traffic, we just walked along local roads. The beach is known for black magnetite sand (visitors came with magnets to check it out, it worked)  washed down Quebrada Urbana creek (the trail follows the creek) from the hills above.  With no recent rains, the black color was not prevailing, but enough on top of “regular white” sea-sand beach to examine. Black streaks running down when waves retreat. After lunch at Bananas we took taxi to Vieques for 6:30 pm (fast, passenger) ferry back to the main island. We retrieved our car and drove to Fajardo where we settled in Julia’s Apartment on Cll 4-2 (recommended). Picked-up some groceries and local beer at Supermercado Pueblo.