Scotland 2019

We started our 21-day trip to Scotland visiting Islands of Mull and Skye, then Highlands, and finished in Glasgow, with two day-trips to Edinburgh.Mostly self-driving, self-catering and walking. Rental car (Renault Captur from Enterprise (good service at GLA) gave us flexibility and with two drivers we had no problem driving on the left side nor on single-track roads. Traffic was light most of the time, some roads were pretty much empty. No problems finding parking (only some parking lots filled close to capacity). The weather was much better than anticipated, more sun and less rain, but we made some adjustments to avoid rainy weather for longer hikes (we hiked in light rain only twice). Hiking was meant to be a good part of our trip and we liked all the hikes very much. Quiraing (close to trailhead) and Lost Valley trails were crowded. Despite beautiful weather Ben Nevis summit looked surprisingly empty in late afternoon. There were quite a few hikers still going up and down the main trail, but we expected many more. Edinburgh had many visitors, but fewer than other similar tourist destinations. All the places where we stayed (mentioned in posts) were very good and made our trip easier and more enjoyable, and deserve recommendation.

Scotland 2019 itinerary
Jul 1 Mon Tarbet Glasgow Tarbet Opole ➜ Wroclaw ➜ WRO ➜ (Ryanair) ➜ GLA ➜ Glasgow-Enterprise car rental ➜ Balloch ➜ Luss ➜ Tarbet [@ Innischonain House]
2 Tue Ardtun Tarbet Ardtun Tarbet ➜ Inveraray Castle ➜ Dun Na Cuaiche walk ➜ Rest and Be Thankful Commemorative Stone ➜ Kilmartin Nether Largie standing stones and Temple Wood stone circles, Museum of Ancient Culture ➜ Oban ➜ Oban-Craignure Ferry ➜ Bunessan ➜ Ardtun [@ Garden Caravan]
3 Wed Ardtun Iona Staffa Ardtun ➜ Fionnphort ➜ Staffa Tripsboat tour-Staffa Fingal’s Cave & puffin watching along SW coast ➜ Iona Baile Mor ➜ Nunnery & Abbey ➜ Dun I-NW coast-Baile Mor walk ➜ Fionnphort ➜ Iona Ferry ➜ Fionnphort ➜ Ardtun
4 Thu Ardtun Carsaig Arches Ardtun ➜ Carsaig ➜ Carsaig Arches trail ➜ Carsaig ➜ Ardtun
5 Fri Ardtun Isle of Mull Ardtun ➜ A849-B8035 ➜ Kilfinichen Bay/Tiroran ➜ Ben More trailhead ➜ B8035 ➜ Salen ➜ A848 ➜ Tobermory ➜ B8083 ➜ Dervaig ➜ Hill Road-B8083-A849 ➜ Ardtun
6 Sat Signal Rock Ardtun Glencoe Ardtun ➜ Duart Castle ➜ Fishnish ➜ Lochaline Ferry ➜ A884 ➜ A861 ➜ Ardgour ➜ Corran Ferry ➜ A82 ➜ Ballachulish ➜ Signal Rock trail ➜ Signal Rock/Glencoe [@ Signal Rock Cottage]
7 Sun Signal Rock Ben Nevis Signal Rock ➜ Torlundy ➜ North Face car park-Carn Mor Dearg-Carn Mor Dearg Arete-Ben Nevis (1345 m)-Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe-Allt a’Mhullim-North Face car park trail ➜Signal Rock
8 Mon Signal Rock Lost Valley Signal Rock ➜ Three Sisters trailhead ➜ Lost Valley trail ➜ Glen Etive-Loch Achtriochtan ➜ Clachaig Inn Restaurant ➜ Signal Rock
9 Tue Portnalong Glencoe Portnalong Signal Rock ➜ Ballachulish ➜ Fort Wiliam ➜ Invergarry ➜ Eilean Donan Castle ➜ Kyle of Lochalsh ➜ Skye Bridge ➜ Sligachan ➜ Satran ➜ Glen Brittle ➜ Fairy Pools trailhead ➜ Glen Brittle Forest walk ➜ Satran ➜ Portnalong [@ But&Ben/Croft Bunkhouse]
10 Wed Portnalong Isle of Skye Quiraing Portnalong ➜ Portee-Uig ➜ Kilvaxter ➜ Kilmuir ➜ Uig ➜ Quiraing trailhead (on C1225) ➜ Quiraing trail ➜ Brogaig ➜ Staffin ➜ Mealt Waterfall ➜ The Old Man of Storr trail ➜ Portee ➜ Sligachan ➜ Portnalong
11 Thu Portnalong Isle of Skye Lochan Coire Lagan Portnalong-Talisker Distillery/Carbost-Glen Brittle-Lochan Coire Lagan-Loch an Fhir bhallaich-Glenbrittle beach trail-Fairy Pools trailhead-Carbost-Portnalong
12 Fri Invergarry Portnalong Invergarry Portnalong ➜ Broadford ➜ Elgol Camasunary trail ➜ Elgol ➜ Broadford (Creelers of Skye) ➜ Skye Bridge ➜ Invergarry [@ Nursery Cottages]
13 Sat Glasgow Invergarry Glasgow Invergarry ➜ Aberfeldy ➜ Balquhidder ➜ Creag an Tuirc trail ➜ Balquhidder ➜ Doune Castle ➜ Stirling Castle ➜ Glasgow [@ Finniestone Flat Blackie Street]
14 Sun Glasgow Glasgow Rest day, return rental car at GLA, Joanna attending conference July 14-18
15 Mon Glasgow Glasgow (Piotr) Finnieston and neighborhood: Glasgow University-Kelvingrove Park-Argyle St
16 Tue Glasgow Glasgow Blackie Street-Exhibition Centre Station ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Glasgow Central Station-George Square-Cathedral-Necropolis-Glasgow Green-St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge-Victoria Bridge-Buchanan St-Glasgow Central Station ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Exhibition Centre Station-Blackie St
17 Wed Glasgow Glasgow (Piotr) Finnieston and neighborhood: Blackie St-Argyle St-Charing Cross-Sauchiehall St-Berkeley St-Argyle St-Blackie S
18 Thu Glasgow Glasgow (Piotr) Finnieston and neighborhood: Blakie St-SEC Centre-River Clyde-Riverside Museum-Old Dumbarton Rd-Argyle St-Blakie St
19 Fri Glasgow Glasgow Blackie St ➜ Uber ➜ Queen Street Station ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Edinburgh ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Queen Street Station ➜ Blakie St via George Square, Vincent St and Argyle St
Edinburgh Waverley Station ➜ Market St-Castle-High St-St Giles’ Cathedral-George IV Bridge-Greyfriars Kirkyard-Candlemaker Row-Victoria St-High St ➜ Waverley Station
20 Sat Glasgow Glasgow Walk from Blackie St to Glasgow Queen Street Station via Vincent St ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Edinburgh ➜ (ScotRail) ➜Queen Street Station ➜ Blakie St via Bath St
Edinburgh Waverley Station ➜ Canongate-Scottish Parliament-Palace of Holyroodhouse ➜ Arthur’s Seat trail ➜ Scottish Parliament-Canongate Kirk-Cockburn St-Waverley Bridge-Princes St-Scott Monument-Scottish National Gallery-Balmoral Hotel ➜ Waverley Station
21 Sun Chicago Finneston ➜ GLA ➜ (United )➜ EWR ➜ ORD
Scotland video clips
Our Scotland destinations on map
Hiking in Scotland

☞ Maps of our hikes in Scotland
☞ Walking Highlands
☞ Murals of Glasgow

Highlights

Scotland, day 14 – 21: Glasgow

July 14 was transition and rest day. Martyna drove to the airport to catch her early morning flight home. She returned our rental car – quick and no hassle. We  slept longer, did laundry. In the afternoon we walked over to the Exhibition Centre where Joanna registered for the conference (July 14-18). Piotr walked around the neighborhood, checking out restaurants and grocery shopping. Next day, Piotr continued to explore Finnieston: Glasgow University ➜  Kelvingrove Park ➜ Argyle St.

On the 16th, Joanna had a break from business. We took ScotRail train from Exhibition Centre Station to Glasgow Central Station and walked a big loop across and around city center: George Square ➜ Cathedral ➜  Necropolis ➜ Glasgow Green ➜ St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge ➜ Victoria Bridge ➜ Buchanan St ➜ Glasgow Central Station. We returned by train to Exhibition Centre Station and walked to Blackie St.

The following two days, with Joanna at the conference, Piotr explored Finnieston and neighborhood: Blackie St ➜ Argyle St ➜ Charing Cross ➜ Sauchiehall St ➜ Berkeley St ➜ Argyle St ➜ Blackie St. And next day: SEC Centre ➜ River Clyde walk ➜ Riverside Museum ➜ Old Dumbarton Rd ➜ Argyle St – Blakie St.

On July 19 and 20 we travelled by train to ☞ Edinburgh  (Glasgow Queen Street Station to Waverly Station). The first day we took Uber – drove around Glasgow centre to avoid traffic, adding distance but saving time. Second time around we just walked to Queen Street Station. On both days we walked back home from the train station, via George Square, Vincent St and Argyle St and via Bath St. With good weather we were able to see more of Glasgow.

Finally, on July 21 we took Uber to the airport for early morning flight to Chicago via Newark.

Scotland, day 19 & 20: Edinburgh

We made two day-trips by train from ☞ Glasgow. Our itinerary covered the most important sites, we walked everywhere.

Day 1: Waverley Station ➜ Market St ➜ Castle ➜ High St ➜ St Giles’ Cathedral ➜ George IV Bridge  ➜ Greyfriars Kirkyard ➜ Candlemaker Row ➜ Victoria St ➜ High St ➜  Waverley Station.

Day 2: Waverley Station ➜ Canongate ➜ Scottish Parliament ➜ Palace of Holyroodhouse ➜ Arthur’s Seat ➜ Scottish Parliament ➜ Canongate Kir ➜ Cockburn St ➜  Waverley Bridge ➜ Princes St ➜ Scott Monument ➜ Scottish National Gallery ➜ almoral Hotel ➜ Waverley Station.

In perfect weather on Saturday afternoon atmosphere on Arthur’s Seat trail was festive and panoramic view of the city was really nice. So was the view of the old town from Princes St (Scott Monument).

Arthur’s Seat

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View from Arthur’s Seat


View from Princes St

Scotland, day 12 & 13: Isle of Skye to Invergarry to Glasgow

We started our two-day return to Glasgow by driving to Elgol and hiking along the coast towards Camasunary. The objective was to get good look at Black Cuillin – first from B8083 on the way to Elgol. The weather was not surprising anymore, between partial Sun, clouds and light rain.

Black Cuillin from B8083

Black Cuillin from B8083

 
Elgol is a small village, compact and packed with cars and visitors, but we found parking spot by Elgol Shop (coffee and scones) and were on the move shortly. The trail was easy, but quite muddy at times, just along the coast, sometimes on top of the cliff, sometimes on the beach. Very good view on the Cuillin peaks across the water. Late lunch at Creelers of Skye in Broadford, Skye Bridge and Nursery Cottages in Invergarry   ☞ Nursery Cottages  (recommended). We cooked dinner in our comfortable and well organized cottage. Few groceries our host gathered for us turned out to be large amount of food to prepare true Scottish breakfast next morning.

Elgol to Camasunary

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Black Cuillin from Elgol to Camasunary trail

The following day was mostly driving, from Invergarry to Aberfeldy, Balquhidder, Doune Castle, Stirling Castle and Glasgow. On some stretches of the road driving required a lot of concentration: it was Saturday and many drivers were pushing it real hard. We visited Dewar’s Aberfeldy Distillery and had coffee at the Watermill in town. We visited Balquhidder church and cemetery (Rob Roy and MacGregors), and enjoyed last walk of the trip to Creag an Turin.

Balquhidder to Creag an Tuirc

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We had little time left for Doune Castle (just walked around it) and spent the rest visiting Stirling Castle (also just outside) and nearby sites on the hill. To save time we navigated narrow streets to the parking lot just next to the castle. All that was left was driving on main highway (easy traffic) to Glasgow and finding the way to our flat on Blackie St  in Finniestone (fantastically complicated exit from the highway, but we made it with help from google). We had enough time to get food from Tesco on Argyle St.

Scotland, day 10 & 11: Isle of Skye

The weather was not good for hiking, clouds and passing rain. We decided to drive north to Portree to be close to Quiraing. On the way, we bought tickets for morning tour and tasting at Talisker (next day) and we bought some beer from Isle of Skye Brewing Co in  Uig. We visited archeological site in Kilvaxter, museum and graveyard in Kilmuir. With weather improving somewhat we turned back towards Uig and arrived at the upper Quiraing trailhead (on C1225) just as the Sun started to come out. We walked on the lower trail with quite a few other hikers, fewer and fewer as we kept going in the rain later on. By the time we made it to the top of the loop, the weather was deteriorating and visibility was quite poor. We decided to return the same way anticipating wind to be unpleasantly strong on the upper trail. We were soaked by the time we came back to our car. Not giving up, we stopped at Mealt Waterfall and made a quick run in the rain to Old Man of Storr, and that was enough for the day. The rain stopped by the time we made it to Portee to look around, have late lunch (Fish & Chips on Quay St) and buy groceries (Co-Op).

Quiriang

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The next day we were ready for another hike, but we started by visiting Talisker Distillery in Carbost  ☞ Talisker  (recommended), a short drive from Portnalong. The tour was well organized and disciplined, informative. Talisker taste is distinct and takes time to appreciate. We did some prep work in Chicago. We parked our car at Glen Brittle beach, walked through the campsite and up on Lochan Coire Lagan trail (recommended). The trail is easy, with some rock scrambling at the end, it was a beautiful hike. We walked near small waterfall and around the little lake with views changing between sunny and dense fog. We walked down on a different trail, via Loch an Fhir-bhallaich, around the village and back to the beach.We spent an hour strolling on the beach at low tide. We got a good view of Fairy Pools valley  and drove to Portnalong pier before returning to But & Ben.

Lochan Coire Lagan

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