Category: Scotland

After full-day Ben Nevis hike we decided to take it easy = short walk to Lost (Hidden) Valley. The weather was very nice, mostly sunny and the trail was packed, the hike was still very pleasant. Three Sisters trailhead parking lot (on A82) was full, not well organized mix of cars and buses. By the time we walked to the top-end of the valley the crowd thinned. We looked up towards Bidean Nam Bian, alternative trail in case we could not hike Ben Nevis. Looking at the trail climbing up was enough for us that day. On the way down we took a different, less popular trail with good views over the valley.

Lost Valley

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We then drove to Glen Etive and stopped at Loch Achtriochtan on the way back. Martyna took our car to Signal Rock Cottages and we had dinner at Clachaig Inn Restaurant, a short walk from our cottage. Scottish food (smoked haddock, highland game pie) and beers with unfamiliar names (Red MacGregor/Orkney, Rubus/Windswept).

The following day we were ready to go to Skye. We drove from Signal Rock to Skye Bridge via Ballachulish (grocery shopping at Co-Op), Fort Wiliam, Invergarry, Eilean Donan Castle and Kyle of Lochalsh. The view of the castle is quite impressive/dramatic (we did not have time or desire to go inside). Seafood at ☞ Fishermen’s Kitchen (opened recently in new place) was really good, despite fast-food type set-up (cullen skink (smoked haddock soup), seafood salad, crab salad with baked potato, boiled langoustines). On Skye, we drove to Fairy Pools trailhead via Sligachan and Satran. The ground was soaked after recent rain and the trail was muddy, which did not stop many visitors  having fun. Parking lot was half-empty. Our plan was to go up too, but we decided to go for Glen Brittle Forest walk instead. With fog and light rain coming and going it was good decision. We were a bit higher above the valley with panoramic views of Glenn Brittle from easy forest road, when the fog partially lifted. We settled at But&Ben in Portnalong   ☞ Croft Bunkhouse  (recommended), our Skye base. Great, remote location, comfortable bedroom and large, fully equipped kitchen/living room.

Glen Brittle Forest

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The weather was really good and it was an easy decision to hike Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg (recommended). We drove past Fort William to Inverlochy and took a side road going around aluminum smelter, but the road was gated and we were not sure how serious the sign about the gate being closed was. We knew we were coming back late and did not want to take any risk of being stuck there after hours. To save time we decided not to explore alternatives to get to parking spot higher up along the trail. We decided to do what hikers do best:  walk, adding couple km for the day. We were at the North Face trailhead parking  lot in Torlundy around 9 am. The parking lot was actually full, with some people camping around it. Surprisingly we saw only few people on the trail. Avoiding possible crowds on the main trail (Mountain Path) was part of the decision to hike this route. Of course it is also much more interesting and scenic. The trail starts very easy and gains altitude steadily all the way to Carn Mor Dearg (1220 m). The views opened in all directions. We descended a bit before crossing Carn Mor Dearg Arete and final ascent to Ben Nevis (1345 m). The last stretch was more difficult with no obvious trail and many large boulders to go around. Navigation was not difficult, with marker posts on top well visible.  GPS was showing we were near the trail, but the trail itself often was not obvious. Parts of the last segment  (1 km, 300 m ascent) were quite steep. The summit is flat. Most hikers were already gone, but a few, like us, were still coming up. We met Polish hikers. We just stumbled around looking in all directions.

Ben Nevis summit

Rather than returning the same way, we decided to take different route down:  Mountain Path to Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe and around the massif to Allt a’Mhullim, shortcut across the valley and back to North Face car park. The descent was easy, quiet and at the end with no people in sight. We took advantage of long day to hike 20 km/1500 m total ascent loop at comfortable pace. We returned to Signal Rock after 11 pm, quite tired.

Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg

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The weather improved and we could see Ben More well, but it was to late to hike it because it was time to move on to Glencoe. We stayed most of the day on smaller, quiet roads with two ferry crossings: from Fishnish to Lochaline and from Ardgour to Corran. We visited Duart Castle on the way. Section of A82 to Ballachulish Bridge was quite busy. We stopped in Ballachulish for info and lunch at Visitor Centre, and to buy groceries at Co-Op. ☞ Signal Rock Cottage was our next base, self-catering again. We arrived early enough for a few loops on Signal Rock trails before dinner.

Signal Rock

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Our primary hikes planned on Mull were coastal trail to Carsaig Arches and Ben Mor. On day 4, weather was so and so (clouds, some passing rain) and we decided to go to Carsaig Arches (recommended). We were lucky to arrive early enough to find parking on tiny lot at the trailhead. The rest was just rumbling along the coast, up and down piles of rocks. We really enjoyed walking on volcanic rocks and dark gray beaches exposed by low tide. It was nice hike, we spent pretty much all day there.

Carsaig Arches

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Carsaig Arches

The following day we made a desperate attempt to hike Ben More, we drove to the trailhead: with heavy fog and occasional rain we decide it was not worth it. We drove around Mull to Tobermory instead (via Salem and Dervaig on the way back). Slow driving on narrow local roads was actually very pleasant experience. Many road segments were scenic even in not so good weather. The scenery had some feel of remoteness, perhaps because we met only few cars and people. We stopped several times to look for sea otters, but no luck. We came back to Ardtun in the evening, but by that point we knew it was not going to get really dark.

Boat to Staffa (Staffa Trips) was full and we were glad we bought tickets the day before. We parked our car in Fionnphort village and walked over to the dock. The sea was calm. On approach and then walking around, Staffa is dominated visually by high vertical basalt columns with grassy fields on top. We first walked to Fingal’s Cave entrance and then back and up the cliffs (SW coast) to watch puffins. We saw many. On the way back, tour boat dropped us off at Baile Mor on Iona. We had the rest of the day to explore the island. We walked through Nunnery and visited the Abbey. With limited time, we decided to walk straight  up Dun I and then continue down the hill to the beaches along the NW coast (recommended). An easy hike and with great sunny weather relaxing walking on the beaches. Very few tourists on Dun I and no people further on. We started walking South along the coast, no obvious hiking trail, just pieces and bits of local trails to follow. With little time to spare, our competitive tempers flared up and we split for the final run across the rugged terrain to catch last ferry. The incentive was clear: there is no way to cross to Fionnphort after the last ferry departs. We were back at our base in Ardtun for late dinner.

North Iona

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