Florida day 1-7: Nashville, Birmingham, Montgomery and Manatee Springs State Park

March 23 – 29

Days 1-2.

We started the trip several days late and worried about hot weather and all manatees moving out to sea.

First day was just fast driving to Nashville. We checked-in to old college (Scarritt) residence hall converted to hotel/airbnb. It has good location in Music Row neighborhood, still walking distance to downtown. We spent the following day walking around, first to RCA Studio B which unfortunately was only accessible for tours from different location – we just walked there. We stopped at Gibson Garage (guitar center). After first take at Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum we took shuttle to RCA Studio B for a short tour and back. We then spent more time at the museum. Even though it is not our favorite music, we felt connection to the artists. Nashville was full of tourist but not crowded, very clean and nice to walk in perfect spring weather.

Days 3-4.

Civil rights history in Alabama. We stopped in Birmingham at Sixteenth Street Baptist Church, visited Birmingham Civil Rights Institute (museum) learning details about not so distant past, and walked in Kelly Ingram Park, stopped for coffee at Alicia’s Coffee in A.G. Gaston Motel.

We arrived in Montgomery in late afternoon, found our airbnb and made it to Dreamland BBQ (recommended) for dinner. Very tasty.

  • Ribs with okra (left photo)
  • Ribs, pulled pork sausage, beans, coleslaw (right photo)

Next day we spent several hours visiting Legacy Museum, Freedom Monument Sculpture Park and National Memorial for Peace and Justice. Important for us reminder of history we learned from afar.

In the afternoon we drove across Apalachicola National Forest in north Florida where we stayed at nice and quiet Tate’s Hell State Forest Cash Creek Campground.

Day 5.

After short, morning walk along Crash Creek in pine flatwoods with palmettos, we spent the rest of the day walking on dunes and beaches of St George Island, and on Gap Point Trail. Island had very relaxed vacation feel, state park with long beaches and woodlands was almost empty – still low season.

Settled at Magnolia 1 Campground in Manatee Springs State Park and immediately went for a walk to look for manatees (no luck that evening). Here it was high season, campground was full and neighbors very loud, but springs were not very crowded and trails empty.

Day 6.

It was time to find manatees – we were lucky and spotted three in spring’s channel: one swimming with a small baby, and separately another one sleeping/floating. We saw manatees before, but clear spring water make them much more visible then in sea lagoons.

Manatee

We walked around in loops all day, along water’s edge, on boardwalks, through wetlands and forest. We had time for swimming and snorkeling in the spring. Springs are beautiful with very clear water, surrounded by swamps with cypresses, tupelos, Spanish moss and alligators. In the evening we walked in woodlands and saw barred owl at twilight.

Day 7.

We started with another walk to the springs and we continued to Crystal River looking for water activity and place to swim – too crowded/noisy vacation spot, disappointing beach, so we decided to visit Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park. It is refuge for rescued Florida animals (we are not great enthusiasts of zoo-type set-ups, but the walk was educational). They had 3 or 4 manatees in large enclosure, one possibly ready for release. We could see up close how huge they are. One more attempt to find swimming beach ended with just a walk at Sunset Beach in Tarpon Spring.

We had good dinner at nearby H’ours Creole Smokehouse (second take on southern food) and stayed at Tarpon Springs Quality Inn & Suites.

  • Cajun seafood and sausage gumbo (left photo)
  • Creole octopus (middle photo)
  • Creole stuffed flounder (right photo)

Western Canada and Alaska road trip 2024

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on overview map) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Western Canada and Alaska Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). We hiked/walked more than 300 km.

Completed itinerary
Day   Destinations Overnight
1Jun14FriHarstad Park, Eau Claire RiverIL-WIHarstad CG
2 15SatVoyageurs NPMNWoodenfrog CG
3 16SunVoyageurs NPMNRiverFront Hotel, International Falls
4 17MonVoyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PPONRushing River CG
5 18TueKenora, Anicinabe ParkONKenora Traveloge
6 19WedTrans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PPMBTrans Canada Hwy wild camping
7 20ThuEcho Valley PPSKEcho Valley CG
8 21FriEcho Valley PP, Trans Canada HwySK-ABTel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
9 22SatDinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PPABLittle Fish CG
10 23SunMidland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell MuseumABTwo Jack Main CG
11 24MonBanff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, BanffABBanff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
12 25TueBanff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink PotsABLake Louise (hardsided) CG
13 26WedBanff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little BeehiveABLake Louise (softsided) CG
14 27ThuYoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields PkwyBC-ABWaterfowl Lakes CG
15 28FriIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier FallsABWaterfowl Lakes CG
16 29SatBanff NP: Chephren & Cirque LakesABWaterfowl Lakes CG
17 30SunBanff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya RiverABWaterfowl Lakes CG
18Jul1MonIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan GlacierABWilcox CG
19 2TueIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca GlacierABWilcox CG
20 3WedIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & FallsABJasper Becker’s Chalets
21 4ThuJasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose LakesABJasper Becker’s Chalets
22 5FriJasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander FallsAB-BCRobson Meadows CG
23 6SatMt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand FallsBCRobson Meadows CG
24 7SunYellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PPBCYellowhead Hwy wild camping
25 8MonYellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, KitwangaBCKitwanga Municipal CG
26 9TueCassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon GlacierBCGranduc Rd wild camping
27 10WedStewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear GlacierAK-BCDease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
28 11ThuCassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska HwyBC-YTAlaska Hwy wild camping 1
29 12FriAlaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, WhitehorseYTCaribou RV PK
30 13SatWhitehorse: Yukon River, Miles CanyonYTKaleido Lodge Whitehorse
31 14SunKlondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose CreekYTMoose Creek CG
32 15MonKlondike Hwy, Dawson City,  Diamond Tooth GertiesYTDawson City private room
33 16TueDawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon RiversYTDawson City private room
34 17WedYukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro DredgeYT-AKTaylor Hwy wild camping
35 18ThuAlaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson HwyAKChatanika Lodge
36 19FriFairbanks, ChatanikaAKChatanika Lodge
37 20SatFairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana RiverAKChatanika Lodge
38 21SunChena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot SpringsAKGranite Tors CG
39 22MonParks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NPAKRiley Creek CG
40 23TueDenali NP: Savage Alpine TrailAKRiley Creek CG
41 24WedDenali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral MountainAKRiley Creek CG
42 25ThuDenali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana RiverAKRiley Creek CG
43 26FriParks Hwy, TalkeetnaAKTalkeetna Cabin
44 27SatTalkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence MineAKEklutna Lake CG
45 28SunChugach SP, Eklutna LakeAKEklutna Lake CG
46 29MonEklutna, Anchorage, Ship CreekAKAnchorage Airbnb
47 30TueSeward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt AlyeskaAKGranite Creek CG
48 31WedChugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai LakeAKPrimrose CG
49Aug1ThuKenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding IcefieldAKResurection River wild camping
50 2FriResurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Seward AKNauti Otter Inn Seward
51 3SatKenai Fjords NP: Northwestern GlacierAKTrail River CG
52 4SunPtarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai LakeAKKenai Lake wild camping
53 5MonKenai River (Russian River Ferry)AKCooper Creek CG
54 6TueRussian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward HwyAKWilliwaw CG
55 7WedPortage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, AnchorageAKAnchorage Airbnb
56 8ThuGlenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina GlacierAKLake Louise Rd wild camping
57 9FriRichardson Hwy, Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson PassAKSheep Creek wild camping
58 10SatRichardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia GlacierAKValdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
59 11SunValdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old Valdez, Richardson Hwy, Edgerton HwyAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
60 12MonChitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien CreekAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
61 13TueMcCarthy Rd, Kennecott, Wrangell-St. Elias NPAKMcCarthy CG
62 14WedWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
63 15ThuWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
64 16FriWrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie MineAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
65 17SatWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina Trestle AKGilahina Trestle wild camping
66 18SunWrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy RdAKSnowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
67 19MonWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou CreekAKKendesnii CG
68 20TueWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum VolcanoAKKendesnii CG
69 21WedNabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska HwyAKDeadman Lake CG
70 22ThuAlaska HwyAK-YTHaines Junction Airbnb
71 23FriKluane NP: King’s ThroneYTKathleen Lake CG
72 24SatKluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias LakeYTKathleen Lake CG
73 25SunAlaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish LakesYTConrad CG
74 26MonKlondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, SkagwayYT-AKWestmark Skagway Hotel
75 27TueSkagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania PointAKWestmark Skagway Hotel
76 28WedKlondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska HwyYTAlaska Hwy wild camping 2
77 29ThuAlaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot SpringsYT-BCToad River Community CG
78 30FriToad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit LakeBCAndy Bailey CG
79 31SatAlaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PPBCHeart Lake CG
80Sep1SunJohn Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince GeorgeBCPrince George Airbnb
81 2MonCariboo Hwy, Green LakeBCGreen Lake Arrowhead CG
82 3TueCariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser RiverBCNairn Falls CG
83 4WedWhistler: Blackcomb & Whistler Mt, Half Note TrailBCWhistler RV PK
84 5ThuSea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Horseshoe Bay to Langdale FerryBCPorpoise Bay CG
85 6FriSunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Earls Cove to Saltery Bay Ferry, Eagle River Falls, Power River to Comox Ferry, Vancouver IslandBCSeal Bay RV PK
86 7SatVancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay ParkBCSeal Bay RV PK
87 8SunStrachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle LakeBCRalph River CG
88 9MonComox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin FallsBCComox Airbnb
89 10TueStrachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau LakesBCComox Airbnb
90 11WedCatherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific TrailBCSurf Junction CG
91 12ThuPacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia BayBCSurf Junction CG
92 13FriPacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver FerryBCSurrey Airbnb
93 14SatSurrey, Hwy I-5 & 20BC-WANewhalem Creek CG
94 15SunNorth Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge damWANewhalem Creek CG
95 16MonNorth Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby ArmWANewhalem Creek CG
96 17TueOkanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington PassWAKlipchuck CG
97 18WedDriving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee DamWA-IDCoeur d’Alene LaQuinta
98 19ThuDriving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald PassID-MTHelena Baymont Hotel
99 20FriDriving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, MedoraMT-NDSully Creek SP CG
100 21SatT. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal VeinNDCottonwood CG
101 22SunT. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & NorthNDCottonwood CG
102 23MonT. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to FargoNDFargo Expressway Suites
103 24TueDriving: I-94, I-90MN-WI-ILChicago

We like our converted Subaru and it works well for two as transportation (normal, small car) and camper (even if minimalistic). Roof cargo box lowers fuel efficiency on highways, but streamlines daily packing and “day-night-day” switch. Subaru life took some practicing and adjustments.

We traveled 26800 miles during ☞ 6 long road trips, plus some shorter trips. We drove more often on unpaved not so good, bumpy and dusty roads which accelerated wear on mechanical systems. It all cought-up with us on this long trip. We had problems with breaks (fixed in Kenora) and tires (fixed in Fairbanks), and ran into first signs of worn suspension-bearings (diagnosed in Surrey, fixed in Chicago after the trip). Rotated tires in Bellingham. Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

Piotr spent quite a bit of time designing, building and testing our Subaru minimalistic camper which made the road trips possible.

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

Highligts…

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