Days 1 -6: from Chicago to Manitoba

June 14-19

The plan was to cover the first 1000 miles in four days. With anticipated slow start out of Chicago and a day or so to check out Voyageurs NP. Driving was slow as Piotr needed frequent rest stops (after intense and tiring events just before the trip). One rest stop was at three-way continental divide (Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico and Hudson Bay) near Anchor Lake MN. First two campgrounds, Harstad on Eau Claire River WI and Woodenfrog on Kabetogama Lake MN, were nice and relaxing. We managed only short evening walks in both places.

The following day we stopped at Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center (Voyageurs NP) just to look at the lake and later at Ash River Visitor Center. Here we spent more time walking on Blind Ash Bay and Sullivan Bay Trails, both short. Stopped at Kabetogama Lake and Beaver Pond Overlooks. At this point we realized how hard it is to see anything of the Voyageurs”waterpark” from shore. Quick decision to stay extra night in hotel (RiverFront) in International Falls MN and take morning National Park boat trip on Rainy Lake, with short stop/walk on Little American Island for a history lesson about gold mining. The 3-hour trip was about observing the lake, its islands and shore. With good interpretative talk by our guides. Water everywhere around.

We crossed Canadian border (International Falls MN/Fort Frances ON) in the afternoon. As we were driving on scenic Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 71), we could hear screeching noise coming from the breaks getting louder and more frequent. By the time we arrived at Rushing River Provincial Park ON campground it was clear we needed car mechanic. Now it was all about fixing our car. Next morning we drove slowly to Canadian Tire in Kenora ON and spent most of two days in town waiting. Walked from Travelodge motel to stores and spent some time relaxing in Anicinabe Park. Luckily they were able to bring all the parts next day and get the car ready just before closing. Really great service.

We packed resupplies and started driving west on Trans Canada Hwy (Hwy 1), but made it only short distance past Ontario-Manitoba border. After driving for a while on side/dirt roads we found a decent site on sandy flats, first wild camp of the trip, only to be swarmed by mosquitoes (in retrospect, the worst case of the entire trip including Alaska). We ate something in the car and spent some time hunting insects until all inside were incapacitated.

Central & Western Canada, and Alaska 2024: 103-day road trip.

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on the overview map below) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

The interactive map (above) and itinerary table (below) are work-in-progress – coming soon destination-specific reports/posts will add more details and photos.

Completed itinerary
DayDestinationsOvernight
1Jun14FriHarstad Park, Eau Claire RiverIL-WIHarstad CG
215SatVoyageurs NPMNWoodenfrog CG
316SunVoyageurs NPMNRiverFront Hotel, International Falls
417MonVoyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PPONRushing River CG
518TueKenora, Anicinabe ParkONKenora Traveloge
619WedTrans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PPMBTrans Canada Hwy wild camping
720ThuEcho Valley PPSKEcho Valley CG
821FriEcho Valley PP, Trans Canada HwySK-ABTel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
922SatDinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PPABLittle Fish CG
1023SunMidland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell MuseumABTwo Jack Main CG
1124MonBanff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, BanffABBanff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
1225TueBanff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink PotsABLake Louise (hardsided) CG
1326WedBanff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little BeehiveABLake Louise (softsided) CG
1427ThuYoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields PkwyBC-ABWaterfowl Lakes CG
1528FriIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier FallsABWaterfowl Lakes CG
1629SatBanff NP: Chephren & Cirque LakesABWaterfowl Lakes CG
1730SunBanff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya RiverABWaterfowl Lakes CG
18Jul1MonIcefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan GlacierABWilcox CG
192TueIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca GlacierABWilcox CG
203WedIcefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & FallsABJasper Becker’s Chalets
214ThuJasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose LakesABJasper Becker’s Chalets
225FriJasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander FallsAB-BCRobson Meadows CG
236SatMt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand FallsBCRobson Meadows CG
247SunYellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PPBCYellowhead Hwy wild camping
258MonYellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, KitwangaBCKitwanga Municipal CG
269TueCassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon GlacierBCGranduc Rd wild camping
2710WedStewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear GlacierAK-BCDease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
2811ThuCassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska HwyBC-YTAlaska Hwy wild camping 1
2912FriAlaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, WhitehorseYTCaribou RV PK
3013SatWhitehorse: Yukon River, Miles CanyonYTKaleido Lodge Whitehorse
3114SunKlondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose CreekYTMoose Creek CG
3215MonKlondike Hwy, Dawson City,  Diamond Tooth GertiesYTDawson City private room
3316TueDawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon RiversYTDawson City private room
3417WedYukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro DredgeYT-AKTaylor Hwy wild camping
3518ThuAlaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson HwyAKChatanika Lodge
3619FriFairbanks, ChatanikaAKChatanika Lodge
3720SatFairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana RiverAKChatanika Lodge
3821SunChena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot SpringsAKGranite Tors CG
3922MonParks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NPAKRiley Creek CG
4023TueDenali NP: Savage Alpine TrailAKRiley Creek CG
4124WedDenali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral MountainAKRiley Creek CG
4225ThuDenali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana RiverAKRiley Creek CG
4326FriParks Hwy, TalkeetnaAKTalkeetna Cabin
4427SatTalkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence MineAKEklutna Lake CG
4528SunChugach SP, Eklutna LakeAKEklutna Lake CG
4629MonEklutna, Anchorage, Ship CreekAKAnchorage Airbnb
4730TueSeward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt AlyeskaAKGranite Creek CG
4831WedChugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai LakeAKPrimrose CG
49Aug1ThuKenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding IcefieldAKResurection River wild camping
502FriResurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, SewardAKNauti Otter Inn Seward
513SatKenai Fjords NP: Northwestern GlacierAKTrail River CG
524SunPtarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai LakeAKKenai Lake wild camping
535MonKenai River (Russion River Ferry)AKCooper Creek CG
546TueRussian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward HwyAKWilliwaw CG
557WedPortage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, AnchorageAKAnchorage Airbnb
568ThuGlenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina GlacierAKLake Louise Rd wild camping
579FriRichardson Hwy: Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson PassAKSheep Creek wild camping
5810SatRichardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia Glacier, Richardson HwyAKValdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
5911SunValdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old ValdezAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
6012MonChitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien CreekAKGilpatricks Hotel Chitina
6113TueWrangell-St. Elias NP: McCarthy Rd, KennecottAKMcCarthy CG
6214WedWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
6315ThuWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root GlacierAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
6416FriWrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie MineAKRoot Glacier moraine backpacking
6517SatWrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina TrestleAKGilahina Trestle wild camping
6618SunWrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy RdAKSnowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
6719MonWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou CreekAKKendesnii CG
6820TueWrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum VolcanoAKKendesnii CG
6921WedNabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska HwyAKDeadman Lake CG
7022ThuAlaska HwyAK-YTHaines Junction Airbnb
7123FriKluane NP: King’s ThroneYTKathleen Lake CG
7224SatKluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias LakeYTKathleen Lake CG
7325SunAlaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish LakesYTConrad CG
7426MonKlondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, SkagwayYT-AKWestmark Skagway Hotel
7527TueSkagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania PointAKWestmark Skagway Hotel
7628WedKlondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska HwyYTAlaska Hwy wild camping 2
7729ThuAlaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot SpringsYT-BCToad River Community CG
7830FriToad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit LakeBCAndy Bailey CG
7931SatAlaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PPBCHeart Lake CG
80Sep1SunJohn Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince GeorgeBCPrince George Airbnb
812MonCariboo Hwy, Green LakeBCGreen Lake Arrowhead CG
823TueCariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser RiverBCNairn Falls CG
834WedWhistler: Blackcomb & Peak 2, Whistler Mt, Half Note TrailBCWhistler RV PK
845ThuSea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Langdale FerryBCPorpoise Bay CG
856FriSunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Eagle Falls, Comox Ferry, Vancouver IslandBCSeal Bay RV PK
867SatVancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay ParkBCSeal Bay RV PK
878SunStrachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle LakeBCRalph River CG
889MonComox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin FallsBCComox Airbnb
8910TueStrachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau LakesBCComox Airbnb
9011WedCatherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific TrailBCSurf Junction CG
9112ThuPacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia BayBCSurf Junction CG
9213FriPacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver FerryBCSurrey Airbnb
9314SatSurrey, Hwy I-5 & 20BC-WANewhalem Creek CG
9415SunNorth Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge damWANewhalem Creek CG
9516MonNorth Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby ArmWANewhalem Creek CG
9617TueOkanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington PassWAKlipchuck CG
9718WedDriving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee DamWA-IDCoeur d’Alene LaQuinta
9819ThuDriving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald PassID-MTHelena Baymont Hotel
9920FriDriving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, MedoraMT-NDSully Creek SP CG
10021SatT. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal VeinNDCottonwood CG
10122SunT. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & NorthNDCottonwood CG
10223MonT. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to FargoNDFargo Expressway Suites
10324TueDriving: I-94, I-90MN-WI-ILChicago

Some highligts…

Central and Western Canada, and Alaska road trip Summer 2024

We have three-four months for 12k-mile road trip across central and western Canada, and all the way north to Alaska (our longest so far). The trip will take us across six provinces (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We are looking at some 20 major parks as our main destinations. Many very popular, but still of great interest as it is our first trip in this direction. We cannot see them all, but will make final decisions on the go. Same goes for camp sites, guest houses/motels, trails and alternate roads.

We have made quite a few improvements to our ☞ Subaru camper to make it more streamlined and comfortable on longer trip. We will gear-up for a couple of short multi-day hikes. So it will be a combination of car camping, tenting and from time to time resting under a roof. Packing the right stuff is critical. Minimalist is the description – it all worked quite well on our prior long road trips.

To get started we are looking for the first 3-4 overnight spots: in central Wisconsin (near Eau Claire), north Minnesota (Superior National Forest/Voyager National Park area) and after crossing the border in Internationl Falls somewhere along Trans Canada Hwy near the border between Ontario and Manitoba. The first leg of the trip is 1800 miles from Chicago past Calgary to Canadian Rockies.

We plan to publish short posts on-the-go on our companion Facebook page: ☞ The Wandering Spot and full report on our website after we come back.

Considering these main destinations
DayMain destination
June1Chicago IL
BanffAB
KootenayBC
YohoBC
JasperAB
GlacierBC
KluaneYT
DenaliAK
ChugachAK
Wrangell St EliasAK
KenaiAK
Glacier BayAK
Wells GrayBC
GaribaldiBC
Vancouver IslandBC
OlympicWA
North CascadesWA
Waterton-GlacierAB/MT
Theodore RooseveltND
September100ChicagoIL

Total eclipse April 8, 2024

We planned short trip to be in the path of total solar eclipse for long time, but waited until last minute watching weather forcasts to decide where to go. In the morning we drove to Green Sullivan State Forest in Indiana. Picked nice site at Wampler Campground just in time to watch the Sun and the Moon. Wearher was very good and we were not disappointed. It was spectacular. Joanna is already searching where we could see eclipse again.

Photos from 13:35 to 15:41 – two middle photos were taken without filter

Total eclipse April 8, 2024, 15:04-15:07

Next day, we parked at boat launch at Trimble Lake (W 150 S) and walked 6-mile red-trail-loop (counterclockwise) meandering between mounds, ravinies and ponds of flooded old strip coal mine restored in early 20th century as  ☞ Green Sullivan State Forest. We cooked late lunch at Orion shelter and headed back home.

Starved Rock in early March

Quite a change of scenery since our ☞ last visit in the Fall of 2022. An unexpected early start to 2024 camping and hiking trips. Sunny and spring-like temperatures, surprisingly dry but very windy. Walked some 17 miles (plus more than 600 stairs) in two half-days, up and down familiar trails. Spoted a few bold eagles above the river, herons  on trees and migratory pelicans stopping for a night on the river. Tested some improvements to our Forester camper.

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