After short visit at Haines Junction (Kluane NP) Visitor Information Centre, with supplies loaded, we drove short distance and settled quickly at Kathleen Lake Campground (for two nights). With weather improved, mix of sun and clouds, we were ready for a hike. We decided summiting King’s Throne Peak was probably too much for that day, but hiked up to King’s Throne “seat”- bottom of the bowl below it. Trail starts easy at Kathleen Lake (near campground). It then turns into good workout on steep rocky slope, almost scramble with fading trail in places. Joanna again could not resist and hiked higher to see what’s on the other side of the mountain. Piotr just guessed – more mountains. Upon return, we relaxed on lake’s shore. Enjoyed long day with sunny weather to cook dinner. Piotr refreshed his skills chopping wood logs. It was good, well organized NP campground.
King’s Throne
Quite steep almost scramble in places
Flattens at destination (view from Joanna’s higher vantage point)
On the way down
Kathleen Lake
Kathleen Lake CG
Next day weather was mixed and hard to predict. We used the day for two short hikes. On Rock Glacier – a pile of frozen rocks, rather than a big chunk of ice like the other glaciers we visited. Interesting feature to explore, even in light rain. Then very easy, almost flat trail (old forest road) to St Elias Lake, enjoyable in better weather.
Rock Glacier…
…flowing into Dezadeash Lake
Dezadeash Lake
Trail to St Elias Lake
…
St Elias Lake
We left the final decision whether to go to Haines for the following morning.
Day 73.
With rain in the forecast on the coast and car ferry sold-out, we decided to skip Haines, turn inland and drive around to Skagway. It was all day of slow driving watching mountains and valleys, rivers and lakes passing by – car tourism. We passed Whitehorse again (without stopping this time), but spent some time in Carcross. Important station on White Pass & Yukon Railway during gold rush. We liked the small town, now just tourist destination, visitor center, good coffee and pastries. We walked a bit on Carcross Desert (large dune, not true desert) – what a change after walking on glaciers. Plus short evening walk on Lake Bennett.
Carcross Desert
…
Lake Bennett
Carcross visitor center
White Pass & Yukon Railway
SS Tutshi Memorial
We settled for the night further along Klondike Hwy at almost empty Conrad Campground on shore of Windy Arm of Tagish Lake. It is located on the grounds of long closed and dismantled copper mining operation.
After short, morning hike to Crystalline Hills we were heading back to Chitina to the end of McCarthy Rd and then to Glennallen – we came that way. Just driving around Wrangell Mountains without much stopping. Weather was mixed, but we could see the high peaks: Blackburn (we saw its other side from airplane), Wrangell and Sanford, although their tops were in clouds. In Glennallen we ignored low fuel warning and continued to Gakona only to discover that gas stations there were closed. So we had to go back. Joanna was making phone calls from the road to find a place to stay in Gakona. Nothing worked, but one place (Snowshoe Haven Cabins in Gakona) called back with an offer: no cabins available, but we could rent an old house under renovation for the night. Very nice hosts. Bedrooms upstairs and kitchen/living room were already done, bathroom was still old. We had entire house for ourselves, good opportunity to regroup. Another case on this trip when interesting opportunity came along on the go.
Crystalline Hills
View from Crystalline Hills Trail
McCarthy Rd
Mt Blackburn from McCarthy Rd
End of McCarthy Rd in Chitina
Mt Blackburn, Willow Lake from Richardson Hwy
Day 67.
Another day of driving – interesting, scenic Tok Cut-Off Highway to Nabesna Road to enter Wrangell Mountains, this time from north – spontaneous decision, as we liked this NP a lot. We talked to rangers at Slana Station, filled-up water containers, we had enough food. Nabesna Rd is first paved and then good gravel. Not much traffic and many camping options. We chose to stay at excellent Kendesnii Campground (NP). Like camping on the edge of taiga. Small lakes and mountain views everywhere. We had only a couple of neighbors – one was also Subaru camper. Enough time left for afternoon hike to Caribou Creek. To cook dinner we had to dress like winter time – temps dropped a few degrees below freezing at night and local mountaintops were dusted with snow in the morning. Not even the end of August and winter made its first move.
Caribou Creek Trail
Taiga all around
Kendesnii Campground
Days 68.
We drove, after same hesitation, further up Nabesna Rd to Skookum Volcano trailhead and spent several hours going up and down the mountain. Steep trail to Skookum Volcano Pass with great colorful rock formations and view of Alaska Range. Good, mostly sunny weather, nice experience. We then drove to the end of drivable road (Subaru) to the site where Nabesca Mine used to be for evening view of Alaska Range. Our Forester got tested on not so good stretches of road and crossing streams. Back to Kendesnii Campground for another wintery night. Joanna tried to rent one of the backcountry cabins, but everything was booked (?). We were glad we came this way: nice scenery, interesting volcano hike with Dall sheep sightings and we liked relaxing camping in taiga despite freezing weather.
Good part of Nabesna Rd
Thors Pond
Trail…
…to Skookum Volcano Pass
Skookum Volcano
To go higher (Joanna)…
…or rest at the pass (Piotr)?
…
Alaska Range on the other side
Alaska Range at sunset from Nabesna Mine site
Not bad here, but it was bumpy ride before and road became impassable for us shortly beyond the sign
Crossing shallow streams is easy, but people sometimes get stuck in small, loose gravel lining the bottom
Day 69-70.
Now it was time to go to Kluane NP. Two days of easy, but somewhat monotonous driving despite interesting scenery starting with short opening in clouds to view (base of massive) Mt Wrangell. First back on Nabesna Rd to Tok Cut-Off Hwy and then Alaska Hwy to nice Deadman Lake CG. We stopped in Tok for lunch at Fast Eddy’s Restaurant and to pick-up groceries (plus Denali Beer Variety Pack and Jagermeister) at Three Bears. Some small businesses already started shutting down for winter. We stopped in Tok earlier on the way to Alaska. We were lucky to get camping spot and had only little time to walk to Deadman Lake and on short nature trail. The following day, we crossed the border and continued on Alaska Hwy to Haines Junction where we rented (Airbnb) room in newly renovated small house with two bedrooms, modern shared living room and kitchen. Rainy and cold weather was a factor in deciding to stay there. Despite end of season hotels were full as everybody (campers) tried to stay indoors. Piotr showed his skills quickly starting fire in wood stove to warm the house (our host came later to start gas furnace). We spent the evening cooking, drinking beer and talking to French couple from Martinique, travelers (bikers) staying in the other bedroom.
