Western Canada and Alaska day 93-99: North Cascades National Park and heading East

Day 93.

We started noticed humming noise coming from car suspension past few days, so we visited Canadian Tire in Surrey to have it inspected. They did good job taking us in on short notice. Diagnosis: be ready to spend $$$ on suspension/bearings – we got it all fixed in Chicago after the trip, but stopped at Costco in Bellingham and Burlington WA to rotate tires as recommended and then check torque.

Driving: Surrey- border crossing (Douglas/Blaine) – Hwy I-5 – Hwy 20 – Newhalem. We used car inspection waiting time to restock for camping in North Cascades National Park. Then back to US – Joanna studied cross-border rules and we passed customs quickly with no problems. Newhalem Creek Campground is very good with large shaded sites. When we arrived everything looked closed for the season, but one loop was actually open and we found a good spot. Nature trail led to Visitor Center. We stayed there 3 nights.

Day 94. We only touched the surface of the park watching it from scenic Highway 20 and from 2 short trails above tree line. Three hydroelectric dams (electricity for Seattle) created beautiful lakes. True exploration of North Cascades requires backcountry hiking, we had the gear, but were already too tired on this trip. Piotr was getting sick and rested, Joanna checked out Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls and Gorge Dam walking from campground.

Day 95.

Visited Gorge and Diablo Lakes, Ruby Arm by driving around and stopping from time to time. Lakes were beautiful shades of blue, turquoise and green on that sunny day. We hiked scenic 6 km Thunder Knob Trail with views of Diablo Lake.

Day 96.

Last day in the west and we both didn’t feel well, but we still managed short 7 km hike to Lake Ann, stopped at Washington Pass Overlook and continued on Hwy 20 to Klipchuck Campground in Okanogan National Forest, as far as we could go that day. We arrived quite early and decided to rest as much as possible. We had good spots to choose from, campground was quiet, few people, sunny weather.

Day 97.

Driving: Hwy 20, 155 – Coulee Dam – Hwy 174, 2, I-90 – Coeur d’Alene. Stopping at scenic overlooks etc. Overnight at Coeur d’Alene LaQuinta.

Day 98.

Driving: Hwy I-90, 12 – MacDonald Pass (short walk near Continental Divide Trail) – Hwy 12 – Helena. Overnight at Helena Baymont Hotel.

Day 99.

Driving: Hwy 12 – Forsyth – Hwy I-94 – Medora. We arrived at Theodore Roosevelt National Park late and all campgrounds were already full, but we found a spot at nearby Sully Creek State Park Campground just for the night planning to move to Cottonwood National Park campground in the morning.

We traveled 1000 miles in 3 days spending most of the time on highways, section to Helena scenic and interesting, the rest rather boring. Our health improved quickly, resting comfortably two nights in good motels helped.

Western Canada and Alaska day 87-92: Vancouver Island

Day 87.

Slow rolling through towns/cottages along the coast from Seal Bay Campground to Campbell River. Slow, but relaxing and we could see how people live around here. And then inland along Upper Campbell and Buttle Lakes to Strathcona Provincial Park. Two short hikes: Karst Creek and Wild Ginger Trails. We settled at Ralph River Campground with plenty of time for cooking, camp fire and meandering walk on Buttle Lake shore until sunset. All very quiet, not too many visitors.

Day 88.

All day to explore Myra Creek area of Strathcona Provincial Park. We first drove to the end of Buttle Lake, crossed Thelwood Creek and visited (short trail) Lower Myra Falls: multiple small cascades over rock steps flowing down into the lake. We then continued to the end of public Western Mine Rd, parked there and hiked up to Upper Myra Falls on slightly longer trail. Cheered every big tree still standing along the way. On the way back, we stopped briefly at Lupin Falls and returned to Comox via faster Hwy 19. Piotr insisted we stayed in town near the repair shop rather than camping to deal with car repair as quickly in the morning as possible. Joanna found a nice, modern and well equipped apartment on Airbnb.

Day 89.

Tuesday started with visit to car glass shop. All went smoothly. Still had better part of the day to visit Forbidden Plateau/Mt Washington part of Strathcona Provincial Park. Walked very nice 13 km “lake” loop from Paradise Meadows: Battleship, Lady, Croteau and Helen Mackenzie Lakes. Back for the night to our Comox Airbnb.

Day 90.

We were heading west to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. We could not resist and stopped at Cathedral Grove (old growth stands of Douglas Fir and other trees) to walk through another wet, green and mossy temperate rainforest (MacMillan Provincial Park). We decided to stay at quality Surf Junction Campground’s more remote Sunny’s Loop (very popular National Park campground was full). Community Building where we cooked meals (it rained at times) and showers are located in the loop. We arrived early and had several spots to choose from. We spent the rest of the day in Ucluelet on Wild Pacific Trail and beaches (Terrace and Big).

Day 91.

More rainforest in the morning (Trail B) and then ranger’s walk in beach tidal zone near Kwisitis Visitor Centre. Well spent hour. The rest of the day was for exploring various beaches: Long, Wickaninnish, Lismer, South, Florencia Bay. Returned to Surf Junction Campground.

We spent more time on the Island than we planned, but weather was good and we enjoyed change of scenery after spending time traveling across high mountains and glaciers, taiga and tundra. Now it was walking in temperate rain forests with old stands of Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir many hundred years old, and visiting rocky shores and beaches on the Pacific coast. Ocean breeze, atmosphere changing quickly between sunny, cloudy, fogy and rainy (nothing extreme) – both ecosystems have mysterious, fairy tale look.

We spent good amount of time finding and photographing things on sand, rocks and in tidal pools. Piotr had nice conversation with another photographer doing the same.

Day 92.

Last day in Canada and we definitely felt we were heading home now, almost 4000 km away. Pacific Rim, Alberini and Island Highways to Nanaimo with short stops at Kennedy Lake and Sproat Lake Petroglyphs, lunch at The Clam Bucket in Port Alberni (clam chowder and clams & mussels bucket with grilled baguettes – very good). Joanna tried to find whales from Nanaimo (Duke Point) to Vancouver (Tsawwassenn) Ferry, but weather turn rainy and visibility bad. When we arrived two hours later, it was already 8 pm – heavy rain and dark. Suddenly all drivers were in big hurry like there was a big city nearby. It took Piotr some patient and careful driving, and Joanna quick navigation decisions to get us to our Surrey Airbnb.