Sorting through family documents I came across old hiking log-books (Książeczki GOT PTTK): twelve multi-day mountain treks in southern Poland and one in Slovakia from 1963 to 1976, and a series of day-hikes in Tatra Mountains in 1964 and 1970. Over 1500km and many major mountain peaks hiked. The map traces roughly connect 30-50 waypoints recorded for each set/trek. We mostly followed established hiking trails and used public transportation only occasionally. Many local roads were still quite walkable, some were not even built yet. I remember quite a few names on the map, some viewes and events, but it is all very fuzzy.
It was family visit, but also remembering hikes in Tatra Mountains some 40-50 years ago. The rocks remain the same making it all look familiar despite big changes in villages and valleys below. I wish I had more time for longer walks (perhaps next time), but in some ways, not surprisingly, I like remembering the way everything was back then.
Zakopane has great location as hiking base and immediate great views of the mountains. Many places to stay and eat. Overdeveloped in my opinion (rentals and restaurants). The weather was good, even if cloudy the first couple of days. We did driving tour on the first day just to look around: Zakopane and Krupówki (main=touristy street), town cemetery, Kościelisko (late lunch=dinner by polish clock at ☞ Gazdówka pod Lasem), Jaszczórowka, Cyrhla, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Murzasichle, Olcza.
Giewont
Krupówki
Local cheese (oscypki etc.)
Koryto Góralskie (highlander’s trough) = food sampler at Gazdówka pod Lasem in KoÅ›cielisko
Tatry Wysokie from Bukowina Tatrzańska
View from my window next morning
Next day was all talking, but we managed short local sunset walk on OlczaÅ„ski Wierch. The following couple of days we did two short and very popular walks: to Dolina BiaÅ‚ego and Dolina Strążyska. We stopped at Villa Astoria (family history), continued up the BiaÅ‚y stream to Sarni Wodospad (waterfall), stopped for late lunch/dinner ☞ Karczma BiaÅ‚y Potok) and ended the day on Gubałówka. Gubałówka may be over commercialized, but so what – the panoramic view of Tatra Mountains is great. The following day we walked up to Siklawica (waterfall) at the end of Strążyski stream valley, just against north face of Giewont. The weather was great for hiking and the crowd was thin (by Zakopane’s standard). More Polish food at ☞ Javorina.
Tatry Wysokie (Slovakia) at sunset from Olczański Wierch
Villa Astoria
Scieżka pod Reglami (trail below forest line)
Dolina Białego
Cable train to Gubałówka
View from Gubałówka cable train
View from Gobałówka
Dolina Strążyska…
…
…Siklawica
Now we are heading to Zakliczyn via scenic, winding road along Dunajec (River) Valley. Panoramic views from the road of Tatry Bielskie and Tatry Wysokie (Slovakia). The river, lakes/reservoirs (Lake Czorsztyn, Lake Rożnow), castles (Czorsztyn, Melsztyn) and small towns (Stary Sacz, Zakliczyn). Some remnants of the past Małopolska atmosfere still left. Krzysztof Penderecki European Centre for Music and Lusławice house were shut closed = disappointment.
Tatry wysokie
Ruins of Czorsztyn Castle
Stary SÄ…cz market square
Stary SÄ…cz
Zakliczyn market square…
…and taste of old architecture…
…Franciscan Monastery
Krzysztof Penderecki European Centre for Music
Rebuilt tower of Melsztyn Caste above Dunajec (river)
We started our 21-day trip to Scotland visiting Islands of Mull and Skye, then Highlands, and finished in Glasgow, with two day-trips to Edinburgh.Mostly self-driving, self-catering and walking. Rental car (Renault Captur from Enterprise (good service at GLA) gave us flexibility and with two drivers we had no problem driving on the left side nor on single-track roads. Traffic was light most of the time, some roads were pretty much empty. No problems finding parking (only some parking lots filled close to capacity). The weather was much better than anticipated, more sun and less rain, but we made some adjustments to avoid rainy weather for longer hikes (we hiked in light rain only twice). Hiking was meant to be a good part of our trip and we liked all the hikes very much. Quiraing (close to trailhead) and Lost Valley trails were crowded. Despite beautiful weather Ben Nevis summit looked surprisingly empty in late afternoon. There were quite a few hikers still going up and down the main trail, but we expected many more. Edinburgh had many visitors, but fewer than other similar tourist destinations. All the places where we stayed (mentioned in posts) were very good and made our trip easier and more enjoyable, and deserve recommendation.
Tarbet ➜ Inveraray Castle ➜ Dun Na Cuaiche walk ➜ Rest and Be Thankful Commemorative Stone ➜ Kilmartin Nether Largie standing stones and Temple Wood stone circles, Museum of Ancient Culture ➜ Oban ➜ Oban-Craignure Ferry ➜ Bunessan ➜ Ardtun [@ Garden Caravan]
3
Wed
Ardtun
Iona Staffa
Ardtun ➜ Fionnphort ➜ Staffa Tripsboat tour-Staffa Fingal’s Cave & puffin watching along SW coast ➜ Iona Baile Mor ➜ Nunnery & Abbey ➜ Dun I-NW coast-Baile Mor walk ➜ Fionnphort ➜ Iona Ferry ➜ Fionnphort ➜ Ardtun
Ardtun ➜ A849-B8035 ➜ Kilfinichen Bay/Tiroran ➜ Ben More trailhead ➜ B8035 ➜ Salen ➜ A848 ➜ Tobermory ➜ B8083 ➜ Dervaig ➜ Hill Road-B8083-A849 ➜ Ardtun
6
Sat
Signal Rock
Ardtun Glencoe
Ardtun ➜ Duart Castle ➜ Fishnish ➜ Lochaline Ferry ➜ A884 ➜ A861 ➜ Ardgour ➜ Corran Ferry ➜ A82 ➜ Ballachulish ➜ Signal Rock trail ➜ Signal Rock/Glencoe [@ Signal Rock Cottage]
7
Sun
Signal Rock
Ben Nevis
Signal Rock ➜ Torlundy ➜ North Face car park-Carn Mor Dearg-Carn Mor Dearg Arete-Ben Nevis (1345 m)-Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe-Allt a’Mhullim-North Face car park trail➜Signal Rock
8
Mon
Signal Rock
Lost Valley
Signal Rock ➜ Three Sisters trailhead ➜ Lost Valley trail ➜ Glen Etive-Loch Achtriochtan ➜ Clachaig Inn Restaurant ➜ Signal Rock
9
Tue
Portnalong
Glencoe Portnalong
Signal Rock ➜ Ballachulish ➜ Fort Wiliam ➜ Invergarry ➜ Eilean Donan Castle ➜ Kyle of Lochalsh ➜ Skye Bridge ➜ Sligachan ➜ Satran ➜ Glen Brittle ➜ Fairy Pools trailhead ➜ Glen Brittle Forest walk ➜ Satran ➜ Portnalong [@ But&Ben/Croft Bunkhouse]
10
Wed
Portnalong
Isle of Skye Quiraing
Portnalong ➜ Portee-Uig ➜ Kilvaxter ➜ Kilmuir ➜ Uig ➜ Quiraing trailhead (on C1225) ➜ Quiraing trail ➜ Brogaig ➜ Staffin ➜ Mealt Waterfall ➜ The Old Man of Storr trail ➜ Portee ➜ Sligachan ➜ Portnalong
Rest day, return rental car at GLA, Joanna attending conference July 14-18
15
Mon
Glasgow
Glasgow
(Piotr) Finnieston and neighborhood: Glasgow University-Kelvingrove Park-Argyle St
16
Tue
Glasgow
Glasgow
Blackie Street-Exhibition Centre Station ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Glasgow Central Station-George Square-Cathedral-Necropolis-Glasgow Green-St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge-Victoria Bridge-Buchanan St-Glasgow Central Station ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Exhibition Centre Station-Blackie St
17
Wed
Glasgow
Glasgow
(Piotr) Finnieston and neighborhood: Blackie St-Argyle St-Charing Cross-Sauchiehall St-Berkeley St-Argyle St-Blackie S
18
Thu
Glasgow
Glasgow
(Piotr) Finnieston and neighborhood: Blakie St-SEC Centre-River Clyde-Riverside Museum-Old Dumbarton Rd-Argyle St-Blakie St
19
Fri
Glasgow
Glasgow
Blackie St ➜ Uber ➜ Queen Street Station ➜ (ScotRail) ➜ Edinburgh ➜(ScotRail) ➜ Queen Street Station ➜ Blakie St via George Square, Vincent St and Argyle St
Edinburgh
Waverley Station ➜ Market St-Castle-High St-St Giles’ Cathedral-George IV Bridge-Greyfriars Kirkyard-Candlemaker Row-Victoria St-High St ➜ Waverley Station
20
Sat
Glasgow
Glasgow
Walk from Blackie St to Glasgow Queen Street Station via Vincent St ➜ (ScotRail)➜ Edinburgh ➜(ScotRail) ➜Queen Street Station ➜ Blakie St via Bath St
Edinburgh
Waverley Station ➜ Canongate-Scottish Parliament-Palace of Holyroodhouse ➜ Arthur’s Seat trail ➜ Scottish Parliament-Canongate Kirk-Cockburn St-Waverley Bridge-Princes St-Scott Monument-Scottish National Gallery-Balmoral Hotel ➜ Waverley Station
21
Sun
Chicago
Finneston ➜ GLA ➜ (United )➜ EWR ➜ ORD
Scotland video clips
Our Scotland destinations on mapHiking in Scotland
Hiking was one of our main objectives for the Islands and Highlands. Ben Nevis is quite a mountain, as are many other peaks, not very high but quite impressive, trails often start almost at sea level
We also enjoyed smaller walks and hikes, here walking down from Dun I to NW beaches of Iona, often along the coast or near lochs, on trails with few hikers and plenty of open space around
Like many other tourists we visited Edinburgh Castle to check on stories we were told a while ago at school. Edinburgh and Glasgow do not feel like big cities, both very pleasant to walk around
Ben Nevis Summit, at 1345 m the highest peak in UK
July 14 was transition and rest day. Martyna drove to the airport to catch her early morning flight home. She returned our rental car – quick and no hassle. We  slept longer, did laundry. In the afternoon we walked over to the Exhibition Centre where Joanna registered for the conference (July 14-18). Piotr walked around the neighborhood, checking out restaurants and grocery shopping. Next day, Piotr continued to explore Finnieston: Glasgow University ➜ Kelvingrove Park ➜ Argyle St.
On the 16th, Joanna had a break from business. We took ScotRail train from Exhibition Centre Station to Glasgow Central Station and walked a big loop across and around city center: George Square ➜ Cathedral ➜ Necropolis ➜ Glasgow Green ➜ St Andrew’s Suspension Bridge ➜ Victoria Bridge ➜ Buchanan St ➜ Glasgow Central Station. We returned by train to Exhibition Centre Station and walked to Blackie St.
The following two days, with Joanna at the conference, Piotr explored Finnieston and neighborhood: Blackie St ➜ Argyle St ➜ Charing Cross ➜ Sauchiehall St ➜ Berkeley St ➜ Argyle St ➜ Blackie St. And next day: SEC Centre ➜ River Clyde walk ➜ Riverside Museum ➜ Old Dumbarton Rd ➜ Argyle St – Blakie St.
On July 19 and 20 we travelled by train to ☞ Edinburgh (Glasgow Queen Street Station to Waverly Station). The first day we took Uber – drove around Glasgow centre to avoid traffic, adding distance but saving time. Second time around we just walked to Queen Street Station. On both days we walked back home from the train station, via George Square, Vincent St and Argyle St and via Bath St. With good weather we were able to see more of Glasgow.
Finally, on July 21 we took Uber to the airport for early morning flight to Chicago via Newark.
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum…
…and University Of Glasgow Business School (on the right)
University of Glasgow
University Chapel
Hillhead Street
University of Glasgow
Mackintosh House and University of Glasgow Library
List of summer treks and day-hikes 1963-1976
Scotland 2019 itinerary
Scotland video clips
Our Scotland destinations on map
Hiking in Scotland
