Category: Canada

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Central & Western Canada, and Alaska 2024: 103-day road trip.

We planned the road trip for quite sometime, but it was only this year that we were able to pull it off. The initial plan was very ambitious (we skipped some destinations shown in red on the overview map below) as there are so many places one would want to see across six provinces/teritories (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We were in Alaska 40 of the 103 days. We crossed US-Canada border 8 times. The interactive map shows places where we stayed O/N, more often in areas explored in-depth.

Our road trip interactive map

Overview map

The plan was to drive between major destinations and camp in our car or tent most of the time (campgrounds and wild camping), stay in motels/hotels/cabins from time to time. Altogether we stayed in 76 different destinations. We drove 13000 miles with only several longer driving days (longest was 660 miles on return to Chicago from Fargo). Luckily, we were able to fix unexpected car mechanical problems on the go, but wasted energy and precious time (~4 days).

It was wide range of scenery and activities. Mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, fjords, temperate rain forest and old tree stands, sand dunes, badlands, Pacific coast. Dinosaurs. Wildlife watching (salmon, bears, orcas, whales…). Driving through areas destroyed by wildfires, some recently. Historical towns and sites from gold rush era. Changing views along highways. Changing weather. In retrospect, our schedule was very interesting travel-wise, but also very intense with little time to rest.

We managed only one short backcountry hike/camping from Kennecott to Root Glacier, disappointing as we were prepared for more. But we did many day-walks/hikes. Memorable several hours on Root Glacier, long day on Harding Icefield Trail and long, but relaxing hike to Kinney Lake and beyond. Two off-trail “wild” hikes: one on slopes of Cathedral Mountain in Denali NP and one exploring petrified forest in badlands of Theodore Roosevelt NP. Kayaking half of Eklutna Lake. Walking along rivers to watch salmon. Exploring gold rush history. Add sightseeing fly-over from McCarthy to Mt Blackburn in Wrangell-St Elias NP, and two ship cruises: from Seward to Northwestern Glacier and from Valdez to Columbia Glacier. Just to name some highlights.

Even with last minute daily planning, we did not have any problems, other than a couple of times, finding places to overnight. There were many campgrounds with good locations and layouts. Most had no running water, flush toilets or showers. We were sometimes surprised by dilapidated infrastructure and poor maintenance. Some automated fee collection stations were technologically top notch. We found very good old-fashioned campgrounds too. We stayed at established campgrounds most of the time (61 nights/42 destinations). Wild car-camping was fine (11 nights/11 destinations). Weather (rain), tight schedule, restocking and laundry, car repairs and long driving was a factor: renting a place to stay overnight was then the only viable/comfortable option (30 nights/23 destinations). Found many excellent and some interesting ones, not always expensive.

We experienced two travel health problems, but both resolved quickly.

Main expenses: gasoline $1980 ($2.80 to $6 per gallon), three ferries $200, rental overnight accommodations $3600 (average $120 per night), paid campgrounds $1060 (average $19 per night), tickets (airplane/ship excursions, mountain gondolas, museums etc.) $2120. Plus we camped 17 nights for free. Total $8970 = $88 per day. Spending on food and drinks was no more than at home. Car repairs and maintenance totaled $2180, but were not directly related to this trip other than by added mileage.

The interactive map (above) and itinerary table (below) are work-in-progress – coming soon destination-specific reports/posts will add more details and photos.

Completed itinerary
Day       Destinations   Overnight
1 Jun 14 Fri Harstad Park, Eau Claire River IL-WI Harstad CG
2   15 Sat Voyageurs NP MN Woodenfrog CG
3   16 Sun Voyageurs NP MN RiverFront Hotel, International Falls
4   17 Mon Voyageurs NP, Rainy Lake, Rushing River PP ON Rushing River CG
5   18 Tue Kenora, Anicinabe Park ON Kenora Traveloge
6   19 Wed Trans Canada Hwy, Portage Spillway PP MB Trans Canada Hwy wild camping
7   20 Thu Echo Valley PP SK Echo Valley CG
8   21 Fri Echo Valley PP, Trans Canada Hwy SK-AB Tel Star Motor Inn, Brooks
9   22 Sat Dinosaur PP hiking, Little Fish PP AB Little Fish CG
10   23 Sun Midland PP hiking, Royal Tyrrell Museum AB Two Jack Main CG
11   24 Mon Banff NP: Minnewanka Lake, Cascade River, Banff AB Banff Tunnel Mtn Village I CG
12   25 Tue Banff NP: Johnston Canyon, Ink Pots AB Lake Louise (hardsided) CG
13   26 Wed Banff NP: Lake Louise, Lake Agnes & Little Beehive AB Lake Louise (softsided) CG
14   27 Thu Yoho NP: Takakkaw Falls, Emarald Lake, Banff NP: Icefields Pkwy BC-AB Waterfowl Lakes CG
15   28 Fri Icefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Peyto & Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls AB Waterfowl Lakes CG
16   29 Sat Banff NP: Chephren & Cirque Lakes AB Waterfowl Lakes CG
17   30 Sun Banff NP: Waterfowl Lakes, Mistaya River AB Waterfowl Lakes CG
18 Jul 1 Mon Icefields Pkwy, Banff NP: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Saskatchewan Glacier AB Wilcox CG
19   2 Tue Icefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Wilcox Pass trail, Athabasca Glacier AB Wilcox CG
20   3 Wed Icefields Pkwy, Jasper NP: Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca River & Falls AB Jasper Becker’s Chalets
21   4 Thu Jasper NP: Medicine, Maligne & Moose Lakes AB Jasper Becker’s Chalets
22   5 Fri Jasper NP: Maligne Canyon trail, Mt Robson PP: Overlander Falls AB-BC Robson Meadows CG
23   6 Sat Mt Robson PP: Kinney Lake, Valley of Thousand Falls BC Robson Meadows CG
24   7 Sun Yellowhead Hwy: Rearguard Falls PP, Ancient Forest PP BC Yellowhead Hwy wild camping
25   8 Mon Yellowhead Hwy: Vanderhoof, Hagwilget, Hazelton, Ksan Village, Kitwanga BC Kitwanga Municipal CG
26   9 Tue Cassiar Hwy: Gitanyow Totems, Bear Glacier, Clements Lake, Stewart, Salmon Glacier BC Granduc Rd wild camping
27   10 Wed Stewart-Cassiar Hwy: Salmon Glacier, Fish Creek, Hyder AK, Bear Glacier AK-BC Dease Lake Water’s Edge cabin
28   11 Thu Cassiar Hwy: Boya Lake, Alaska Hwy BC-YT Alaska Hwy wild camping 1
29   12 Fri Alaska Hwy: Teslin, Johnsons Crossing, Marsh Lake, Whitehorse YT Caribou RV PK
30   13 Sat Whitehorse: Yukon River, Miles Canyon YT Kaleido Lodge Whitehorse
31   14 Sun Klondike Hwy: Carmacks, Five Finger Rapids, Moose Creek YT Moose Creek CG
32   15 Mon Klondike Hwy, Dawson City,  Diamond Tooth Gerties YT Dawson City private room
33   16 Tue Dawson City: Dredge No. 4, Bonanza Creek, Midnight Dome, Klondike & Yukon Rivers YT Dawson City private room
34   17 Wed Yukon ferry, Top of the World Hwy, Taylor Hwy, Chicken AK, Pedro Dredge YT-AK Taylor Hwy wild camping
35   18 Thu Alaska Hwy, Delta Junction, Richardson Hwy AK Chatanika Lodge
36   19 Fri Fairbanks, Chatanika AK Chatanika Lodge
37   20 Sat Fairbanks: Pioneer Park, Tanana River AK Chatanika Lodge
38   21 Sun Chena River, Angel Rocks, Chena Hot Springs AK Granite Tors CG
39   22 Mon Parks Hwy, Nenana, Denali NP AK Riley Creek CG
40   23 Tue Denali NP: Savage Alpine Trail AK Riley Creek CG
41   24 Wed Denali NP: East Fork Toklat River, Cathedral Mountain AK Riley Creek CG
42   25 Thu Denali NP: Savage River, Horseshoe Lake, Nenana River AK Riley Creek CG
43   26 Fri Parks Hwy, Talkeetna AK Talkeetna Cabin
44   27 Sat Talkeetna, Parks Hwy, Hatcher Pass, Independence Mine AK Eklutna Lake CG
45   28 Sun Chugach SP, Eklutna Lake AK Eklutna Lake CG
46   29 Mon Eklutna, Anchorage, Ship Creek AK Anchorage Airbnb
47   30 Tue Seward Hwy: Turnagain Arm, Mt Alyeska AK Granite Creek CG
48   31 Wed Chugach NF: Carter and Crescent Lakes, Kenai Lake AK Primrose CG
49 Aug 1 Thu Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Harding Icefield AK Resurection River wild camping
50   2 Fri Resurection River, Kenai Fjords NP: Exit Glacier, Seward  AK Nauti Otter Inn Seward
51   3 Sat Kenai Fjords NP: Northwestern Glacier AK Trail River CG
52   4 Sun Ptarmigan Lake trail, Tern Lake, Kenai Lake AK Kenai Lake wild camping
53   5 Mon Kenai River (Russion River Ferry) AK Cooper Creek CG
54   6 Tue Russian River & Falls, Sterling & Seward Hwy AK Williwaw CG
55   7 Wed Portage Lake, Whittier, Williwaw Creek, Portage Valley, Anchorage AK Anchorage Airbnb
56   8 Thu Glenn Hwy, Chugach Mountains, Matanuska Glacier, Tazlina Glacier AK Lake Louise Rd wild camping
57   9 Fri Richardson Hwy: Tonsina, Worthington Glacier, Thompson Pass AK Sheep Creek wild camping
58   10 Sat Richardson Hwy, Valdez, Columbia Glacier, Richardson Hwy AK Valdez Airport Mancamp Hotel
59   11 Sun Valdez Glacier Lake, Duck Flats, Old Valdez AK Gilpatricks Hotel Chitina
60   12 Mon Chitina, Chitina & Copper Rivers, O’Brien Creek AK Gilpatricks Hotel Chitina
61   13 Tue Wrangell-St. Elias NP: McCarthy Rd, Kennecott AK McCarthy CG
62   14 Wed Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier AK Root Glacier moraine backpacking
63   15 Thu Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier AK Root Glacier moraine backpacking
64   16 Fri Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Kennicott & Root Glaciers, Erie Mine AK Root Glacier moraine backpacking
65   17 Sat Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Root Glacier, Wrangell Mts, Gilahina Trestle  AK Gilahina Trestle wild camping
66   18 Sun Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Crystalline Hills, McCarthy Rd AK Snowshoe Haven Cabins Gakona
67   19 Mon Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Caribou Creek AK Kendesnii CG
68   20 Tue Wrangell-St. Elias NP: Nabesna Rd, Skookum Volcano AK Kendesnii CG
69   21 Wed Nabesna Rd, Tok Cutoff, Alaska Hwy AK Deadman Lake CG
70   22 Thu Alaska Hwy AK-YT Haines Junction Airbnb
71   23 Fri Kluane NP: King’s Throne YT Kathleen Lake CG
72   24 Sat Kluane NP: Rock Glacier, St Elias Lake YT Kathleen Lake CG
73   25 Sun Alaska Hwy, Klondike Hwy, Carcross Desert, Carcross, Bennett & Tagish Lakes YT Conrad CG
74   26 Mon Klondike Hwy, Summit Lake, White Pass, Dyea, Skagway YT-AK Westmark Skagway Hotel
75   27 Tue Skagway, Klondike Gold Rash, Yakutania Point AK Westmark Skagway Hotel
76   28 Wed Klondike Hwy, Tutshi Lake, Alaska Hwy YT Alaska Hwy wild camping 2
77   29 Thu Alaska Hwy, Watson Lake, Liard River Hot Springs YT-BC Toad River Community CG
78   30 Fri Toad River, Alaska Hwy, Stone Mt PP, Summit Lake BC Andy Bailey CG
79   31 Sat Alaska Hwy, Hudson’s Hope, Chetwynd, Pine Le Moray PP BC Heart Lake CG
80 Sep 1 Sun John Hart Hwy, Bijoux Falls, Crooked River PP, Prince George BC Prince George Airbnb
81   2 Mon Cariboo Hwy, Green Lake BC Green Lake Arrowhead CG
82   3 Tue Cariboo Hwy, Chasm, Hwy 99, Marble Canyon PP, Fraser River BC Nairn Falls CG
83   4 Wed Whistler: Blackcomb & Peak 2, Whistler Mt, Half Note Trail BC Whistler RV PK
84   5 Thu Sea-to-Sky Hwy, Brandywine & Shannon Falls, Howe Sound, Porteau Cove, Langdale Ferry BC Porpoise Bay CG
85   6 Fri Sunshine Coast, Porpoise Bay, Eagle Falls, Comox Ferry, Vancouver Island BC Seal Bay RV PK
86   7 Sat Vancouver Island. Comox: Goose Spit, Seal Bay Park BC Seal Bay RV PK
87   8 Sun Strachona PP: Karst Creek & Wild Ginger Trail, Buttle Lake BC Ralph River CG
88   9 Mon Comox; Strachona PP: Lower & Upper Myra Falls, Lupin Falls BC Comox Airbnb
89   10 Tue Strachona PP, Mt Washington: Paradise Meadows, Battleship, Lady & Croteau Lakes BC Comox Airbnb
90   11 Wed Catherdla Grove (MacMillan PP), Ucluelet: Wild Pacific Trail BC Surf Junction CG
91   12 Thu Pacific Rim NP: Rainforest Trails, Long & Wickaninnish & South Beaches, Florencia Bay BC Surf Junction CG
92   13 Fri Pacific Rim & Island Hwy, Sproat Lake PP, Nanaimo-Vancouver Ferry BC Surrey Airbnb
93   14 Sat Surrey, Hwy I-5 & 20 BC-WA Newhalem Creek CG
94   15 Sun North Cascades NP: Skagit River, Rock Shelter, Trail of the Cedars, Ladder Falls, Gorge dam WA Newhalem Creek CG
95   16 Mon North Cascades NP: Gorge & Diablo Lakes, Thunder Knob, Ruby Arm WA Newhalem Creek CG
96   17 Tue Okanogan NF: Lake Ann, Washington Pass WA Klipchuck CG
97   18 Wed Driving: Hwy 20, 155, 2, I-90, Coulee Dam WA-ID Coeur d’Alene LaQuinta
98   19 Thu Driving: I-90, Hwy 20, MacDonald Pass ID-MT Helena Baymont Hotel
99   20 Fri Driving: Hwy 12 (89, 294) Helena to Forsyth, I-94, Medora MT-ND Sully Creek SP CG
100   21 Sat T. Rosevelt NP, Wind Canyon, Buck Hill & Coal Vein ND Cottonwood CG
101   22 Sun T. Rosevelt NP: Roosevelt Cabin, Petrified Forest South & North ND Cottonwood CG
102   23 Mon T. Rosevelt NP: Skyline Vista, Painted Canyon trail; I-94 to Fargo ND Fargo Expressway Suites
103   24 Tue Driving: I-94, I-90 MN-WI-IL Chicago

Some highligts…

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Central and Western Canada, and Alaska road trip Summer 2024

We have three-four months for 12k-mile road trip across central and western Canada, and all the way north to Alaska (our longest so far). The trip will take us across six provinces (ON, MB, SK, AB, BC, YT) and eight states (IL, WI, MN, WA, ID, MT, ND, AK). We are looking at some 20 major parks as our main destinations. Many very popular, but still of great interest as it is our first trip in this direction. We cannot see them all, but will make final decisions on the go. Same goes for camp sites, guest houses/motels, trails and alternate roads.

We have made quite a few improvements to our ☞ Subaru camper to make it more streamlined and comfortable on longer trip. We will gear-up for a couple of short multi-day hikes. So it will be a combination of car camping, tenting and from time to time resting under a roof. Packing the right stuff is critical. Minimalist is the description – it all worked quite well on our prior long road trips.

To get started we are looking for the first 3-4 overnight spots: in central Wisconsin (near Eau Claire), north Minnesota (Superior National Forest/Voyager National Park area) and after crossing the border in Internationl Falls somewhere along Trans Canada Hwy near the border between Ontario and Manitoba. The first leg of the trip is 1800 miles from Chicago past Calgary to Canadian Rockies.

We plan to publish short posts on-the-go on our companion Facebook page: ☞ The Wandering Spot and full report on our website after we come back.

Considering these main destinations
      Day Main destination    
June     1 Chicago  IL  
        Banff AB  
        Kootenay BC  
        Yoho BC  
        Jasper AB  
        Glacier BC  
        Kluane YT  
        Denali AK  
        Chugach AK  
        Wrangell St Elias AK  
        Kenai AK  
        Glacier Bay AK  
        Wells Gray BC  
        Garibaldi BC  
        Vancouver Island BC  
        Olympic WA  
        North Cascades WA  
        Waterton-Glacier AB/MT  
        Theodore Roosevelt ND  
September     100 Chicago IL   

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Eastern Canada road trip

Our second road trip of 2023 (after ☞ Puerto Rico) took us on 37-day, 6000-mile loop around Eastern Canada, heading out via Detroit and returning via Cleveland. We crossed 10 states (IL, IN, MI, NY, ME, NH, VT, NY, PA, OH) and 6 provinces: Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland & Labrador, Nova Scotia, Prince Edwards Island and New Brunswick. We drove fairly quickly to Baie-Comeau QC. Short stop on the way at Pointe-Noire to watch belugas reminded us ☞ Quebec 2009 trip. Traveling Trans-Labrador Highway was the initial impulse for the entire trip. Driving was easy as the highway is in excellent condition and even the unpaved section of Rt 389 is not bad. Still, vast, sparsely inhabited expanse of taiga and tundra, and very light trafic preserve Labrador’s remote feel. The landscape is great and very interesting. Vegetation was surprisingly green and dense, even lush, although growth of everything (except mushrooms) is stunted. There are beautiful lakes, rivers and marshes. It was then rather disappointing that travelers on the road are firmly ditched-off the surrounding environment – nowhere to stop for a break, except at the road’s edge, or to get a good view, except stopping in the middle of bridges. Most side-dirt-roads, road-side parking lots or post-road-construction sites are neither interesting nor the kind of places one wants to explore. The rest of the trip was easier in this respect.

Scenery was changing all the time: from Great Lakes to St Lawrence River, to Labrador’s interior to Gulf of St Lawrence and Atlantic coast. Many lakes, rivers, streams and fjords. Taiga (boreal forest), tundra, beaches, coastal cliffs and barrens. Some mountains and hills. Interesting rock formations. We saw four black bears (they do not seem to cause problems for campers), 1/2 moose, a heard of 12+1 caribou, one fox, many squirrels and birds, a few dozen pilot whales plus one larger whale (?) far away and several beluga pods.

We started with a general idea where we wanted to go and we did some reaearch about places to visit and possible O/N sites, but the rest was left to daily decissions (did not make any reservations).

We had really good weather most of the time. A few nights with colder temps and several rainy days. Despite late in the season, we were hit by flies in multiple locations, two layers of clothing and mosquito nets helped (to some degree) and once by swarms of really nasty mosquitos. Moderate, passing rain during the day or rain, even heavy, at night was not a problem, but substantial rain made packing our car=camper quite a wet experience on one occasion. And we were on collision course with remnants of Hurricane Lee, which passed over our heads on Prince Edward Island. We spent the night in rented cottage just in case, but it was just rain and some gusty wind. We are getting better finding wild camping sites on our own. We had no problems with car travel/camping, but we have some new ideas how to improve/streamline operations before next trip. As it was later in the season, we had no problem finding space in National/Provincial Park capmgrounds or in inns/cottages.

Completed itinerary
        Main destination   Overnight
Aug 19 Sat 1 Ontario ON Big Bend
  20 Sun 2 Darlington PP ON Darlington
  21 Mon 3 Rideau Canal Kingston Mills ON Mille Roches
  22 Tue 4 Thousand Island NP QC Petite River
  23 Wed 5 Massif de Charlevoix QC Petite River
  24 Thu 6 Pointe-Noire QC Les Dinosaures du Quai De Ragueneau
  25 Fri 7 Lac Manicouagan QC Lac Manicouagan Rt 389
  26 Sat 8 Uapishka Biodiversity Reserve NL Two Seasons Labrador City
  27 Sun 9 Churchill Falls NL Camp Rt 500 Happy Valley
  28 Mon 10 Happy Valley-Goose Bay NL Camp 1 Rt 510
  29 Tue 11 Mary’s Harbour NL Camp 2 Rt 510
  30 Wed 12 Saddle Island NL Grenfell Louie Forteau
  31 Thu 13 Thrombolites Flowers Cove NL Camp Rt 430
Sep 1 Fri 14 L’Anse aux Meadows NL Main Brook
  2 Sat 15 Pointe Riche NL Arches
  3 Sun 16 West Brook Pond NL Barry Hill
  4 Mon 17 Gros Morne Summit NL Barry Hill
  5 Tue 18 Gros Morne NP NL Trout River
  6 Wed 19 Green Gardens/Tablelands NL Lomond
  7 Thu 20 Cape St George NL Inn at the Cape
  8 Fri 21 Boutte du Cap Trail NL Camp Rt 480
  9 Sat 22 Ramea NL Sandbanks
  10 Sun 23 Sandbanks PP NL Ferry to Cape Breton
  11 Mon 24 Cabot Trail/Cape Breton NS Mountain View Motel Pleasant Bay
  12 Tue 25 Skyline Trail NS Cheticamp
  13 Wed 26 Salmon Pools Rd Trail NS Whycocomagh
  14 Thu 27 Charlottetown PE Cavendish
  15 Fri 28 PEI NP PE Cavendish
  16 Sat 29 Green Gables PE Dreamweavers Cottage North Rustico
  17 Sun 30 Hopewell Rocks PP NB The Shire
  18 Mon 31 Fundy NP NB Chignecto
  19 Tue 32 New River Beach PP ME Fogg Brook Resort Palmyra
  20 Wed 33 Lobster Cooker Freeport VT Camp George D Aiken Wilderness
  21 Thu 34 Vermont Long Trail NY Oneonta KOA Journey Unadilla
  22 Fri 35 Erie Bluffs SP OH Broadview Heights
  23 Sat 36 Cuyahoga  Valley  NP OH Broadview Heights
  24 Sun 37 Home IL Chicago

Eastern Canada road trip

Interactive map
Photo gallery – 291 photos
Nature – 96 photos
More on Eastern Canada road trip 2023 (8 posts)
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Estern Canada road trip days 30-37: New Brunswick and return to Chicago

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Day 30

The first objective of the day was to cross Prince Edward Island and then Confederation Bridge over Northumberland Strait. Piotr did not want to get caught driving on long (13 km) exposed bridge in whatever wind leftovers the huricane could still produce. Driving into side wind-gusts with cargo box on the roof is not fun. We just moved steadily and arrived midday in New Brunswick. We new parks and park camgrounds remained closed. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park Visitor Center was closed, but we decided to take to the trails on the coast with quite a few other visitors. Weather was not bad. People come here mostly to watch the tide come and go.

Later, we drove up and down Scenic Drive along the coast (Rte 915). Stopping at Cape Enrage Lighthouse. Piotr did not like wild camping spots Joanna found and we spent the night at The Shire, small camping next to (old) Ha Ha Cemetery. Convenient and nice spot. Hats, mosquito nets, two layers to cover entire body and we were stil bitten multiple times.  No way we could cook dinner, we ate whatever sitting in the car. All mosquitos from Canada converged on us there, they were not really a problem anywhere else.

Day 31

Next stop, Fundy National Park. We considered staying in Alma, but after talking to rangers at the Visitor Center decided park campground was a better option. We had plenty of time to walk around. Spent some time on the beaches watching the tide sweep-in quite quickly. Watermarks showed impresive tide-height  in Bay of Fundy (up to 16 m), among the highest in the World. We also walked two trails, Shiphaven and Coppermine, through forested high banks.

Chignecto Campground is quite large, but there were only a few people around that day late in season. We found a good spot near shelter/kitchen. Everything looked new. With plenty of firewood and food we were set for the evening. It was cold and rainy outside.

Day 32

Now we knew the Canadian adventure is ending – we were heading toward US border. Six more days, 2500 km to Chicago. Driving, some stops to rest and look around. Next major destination: visiting friends in Cleveland.

Coffee break for XL latte at Picadilly Coffee Roasters in Sussex NB (recommended) and brief visit  at New River Beach Provincial Park NB, Joanna walked around, Piotr took driver’s nap. Last two stops in Canada.

When we arrived at Fogg Brook Resort Campground, Palmyra ME, the office was alrady closed but the staff was very nice and came back to check us in. Then neighbours came over with strong flash light, as we were setting camp after dark, and big bundle of camp firewood. It was the first time we camped on golf course.

Day 33

We stopped in Freeport ME to pick-up groceries at Bow Street Market and for lunch at Lobster Cooker (recommended) followed by coffee at  Siphouse (recommended) on Main Street. All selected based on friendly recommendations at Mainly Seafood Company just off the highway. Lobster time for Joanna, Piotr settled for fish & chips basket plus later extra-large latte. And we were back on I-295/95 heading south and then on Hwy 202 and 9 west to Vermont.

George D Aiken Wilderness Rd dispersed camping in Green Mountains, VT (recommended). Last chance for wild camping and we liked it.

Day 34

Joanna was looking for one more short hike and we decided to go on Long Trail to Maple Hill near Bennington VT. Weather was beautiful. We added a couple of miles  on one of our favorites: Appalachian Trail. Coffee at The Perfect Blend on Broad St in Waverly NY and driving on major highways for the rest of the day until Unadilla / I-88 / Oneonta KOA Journey campground (our first KOA and it was very good). We got a nice spot at the end of the campground and not between large campers/RVs.

Day 35

All day of highway driving with short stop for sunset and short walk at Elk Creek, Erie Bluffs State Park, PA. We arrived at Joanna’s friend’s house in Cleveland suburb in the evening.

Day 36

We spent half-a-day visiting Cuyahoga National Park, OH. A combination of easy walk through forested hills and creeks, and on  Cuyahoga River with a bit of history: Ohio & Erie Canal and Valley Railway (18th century), and industrial sites such as Jaite Paper Mill (early 20th century). 30th US National Park we have visited so far. We spent the rest of our time with friends.

Day 37

Just driving from Cleveland to Chicago.

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Estern Canada road trip days 27-29: Prince Edwars Island

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Day 27

We arrived in Charlottetown in quite intense rain. Joanna interogated rangers at the Visitor Center and we stopped at Water Prince Corner Shop for early dinner. Great seafood:  island mussles and lobster roll. Rain slowed down enough for a walk around the neighbourhood. We crossed the island to the north side and took a spot at Cavendish campground in PEI National Park: closest to the beach and next to shelter to stay under roof if heavy rain returned. Campground was partially closed with just some campers. The hurricane was still a couple of days away.

Day 28

Weather improved, time to visit all corners of Prince Edward Island National Park: Cavendish Beach, MacNeills Brook Beach, North Rustico Beach, Brackley Beach, Covehead Harbour Lighthouse,  Cavendish Cliffs, back to Cavendish Beach, Dunelands and Oceanview Lookoff. Green Gables Heritage Place was already closed, so we just walked Haunted Woods Trail where we met nobody,  but lonely fox making its rounds.  It walked within a couple of feet without even acknowledging our presence. The hurricane was still 24 hours away, but weather was changing: red evening sky below low dark clouds, wind gusts and rushing waves. We moved to a different camping spot at Cavendish, perhaps 100m further inland, like it would make any difference.

Day 29

Morning visit to Green Gables Heritage Place, Montgomery Park and Cavendish Cemetery (Cavendish is Avonlea in books about Anne). Late lunch at Carr’s Oyster Bar (recommended) in Stanley Bridge. Finally found the right place to try fresh local oysters (Piotr could not refuse tasting two). Followed by baked oysters and steamed clams.

Drove all the way to Thunder Cove Beach only to discover it was closed for visitors, just looked around. Took diferent local roads to go back. Weather was cleary getting more active: wind gusts, fast moving clouds, passing rains. We were looking for a place to overnight and Joanna found Dreamweavers Cottages and Vacation Homes (recommended) in North Rustico. Fully equipped cottage (kitchen, laundry etc) and very nice host. We parked away from trees and listened to wind gusts becoming stronger. Remnants of the hurricane (just wind and rain)  passed over our heads at night.

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