We drove 10 hours from Kathmandu to Phaplu in jeep with 9 people packed like sardines (it was’n too bad). Started the day at 4:30 picked-up by the driver near our apartment, left Chabahil Chowk around 5:30 AM and arrived in Phaplu around 3:30 PM. Part of the road is quite scenic, along a river and then up out of the valley traversing steep slopes. No time to stop for pictures, only a short break for lunch at road-side restaurant. We parked for the night at a small hotel across the street from Phaplu airport (not good for the price, toilet outside). The following day we started walking towards higher ground – day one of trekking.
Nepal, day 1 & 2: Kathmandu, prep for the trek
We have one full day – two nights to prepare for the trek. Our apartment is in a small building between Sorhakhutte and Pakanajol, on the border with Thamel. We went by taxi to Chabahil bus stop to buy tickets for jeep to Phaplu, did some shopping and rested in a tourist cafe in Thamel, wondered around a bit. We got first view of snow-covered peaks, just before sunset. We start next morning at 3 am. Hope to have some internet connection on the trail.
Qatar, on the way to Nepal
It is a long trip to Kathmandu: ORD-DOH-KTM = 14820 km, 17:40 hrs flying time (13:15+4:25), 20:50 hrs on the way back. We are breaking-up the trip staying over-night in Doha in hotel on the west side of town. We arrived one hour late, but still had time for a quick walk along the water front, Doha Corniche Promenade, from the park by the sea and Museum of Islamic Art to Souq Waqif for dinner, walking around more after dinner. In retrospect, clean room, clean bathroom, shower with hot water, good food before life on the trail. We talked with friendly restaurant owner who posed for picture and we got the final push with free upgrade to business class on the flight to Khatmandu.
Trekking in Nepal
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We have 1 week for the final prep for our trip to Nepal. Making reservations, researching trails and teahouses, and working-out. And compiling packing lists for the trek: every item is carefully evaluated and weighted. For now, it looks like my total load “from bare to hiking” is 16 kg, Joanna’s 10 kg.
Phaplu-Gokyo-Lukla trek is the main goal of the trip: 18 days, ~167 km, altitude 1490-5345 masl, average slope 17%, ~13900 m total altitude gain, expecting dry weather, but temperatures at night may fall to -15℃. It will take us 12 days (~100 km) to hike to the upper Gokyo lakes, half-way between Gokyo and Cho Oyu, along the Ngozumba Glacier. Five of the 15 World’s highest mountains will be within sight: Cho Oyu (8188) and Gyachung Kang (7952) – closest, Everest (8848) and Lhotse (8516), and Makalu (8485) – further. We start on November 1 traveling all day by bus/jeep to Salleri/Phaplu and next day further up to Ringmo by jeep, if possible. We start hiking at low altitude and go slow, with a lot of flexibility how far we hike each day and where we stay. Namche Bazaar and Gokyo are the only fixed points. We plan 4 day-hikes, if we are strong and have enough time. We fly back to Kathmandu from Lukla. We will also visit Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, and Doha on the way.