Kenya day 3-4: Nairobi

We were a bit scared and stressed before traveling to Kenia because we were coming just after elections and serious unrest was a real possibility. We also worried about arranging safaris on internet with unknown companies. Fortunately, it was peaceful when we arrived, all people we met were nice and kind, and our travel arrangements worked out well. The election results were annulled while we were there and unfortunately Kenyans face more uncertain times, we will follow the events from Chicago.

We were staying with friends in Runda Nairobi. First, we recovered Piotrโ€™s backpack from the airport: a weird case of “mistaken identity” solved thanks to our investigative skills and FB, we sent backpack we picked-up by mistake to Swedish tourist on safari, had briefing downtown for Mt Kenya trek and Meru NP safari. Crossedย the city a few times, eating out andย shopping. Quick introduction to the city, not much time for photos. And finally on second day we had a couple of hours for relaxing walk in Karura Forest, park just in the middle of Nairobi very close to Runda. Closed the second day with briefing with Keron Safaris and Hotels for Samburu/Ol Pejeta/Lake Nakuru/Masai Mara safari starting early morning the following day.

More on our tour operator Keron Safaris and Hotels

10 day/9 night trip from Nairobi to Samburu/Ol Pejeta/Lake Nakuru/Masai Mara with โ˜ž Keron Safaris and Hotels. All planning and arrangements for the trip were made by e-mail, and the process was very effective. We made the payment in Nairobi just before the trip. We chose a private tour for the flexibility of visiting places and staying longer in some parks than group tours do, and for the style of the game drives. It was good decision also because we were standing in the van most of the time during the game drives (when the roof was up). We had a lot of space and could turn around freely. It would still be OK with 4 people, but for sure not with 6 or 7, like we saw in many other safari cars.

We passed some nice landscapes on the way between the parks, Rift Valley, hills, coffee and tea plantations, villages and small towns, street/highway markets, but even with the private tour we didnโ€™t stop and had to rushed to the next destination, although often it would be fine to arrive an hour later. Driving on Kenyan main roads is tough, but our driver Mike was very good and careful. Our safari was well organized, lodges/camps were very good, better than we expected, food was OK and safe (many choices, tasty but quite heavy and often fried). Our safari van was older, but well prepared and survived the journey without a problem. Mike did also excellent job on the bumpy roads and stream crossings, knew the parks well, spotted many animals, and showed great interest in birds. Venant, one of the owners who came along as our guide, provided assistance, but spent quite a bit ofย time on his phone arranging tours for other clients. He didnโ€™t volunteer too much information, but when asked provided facts about birds and animals, and Kenya in general, but not so much about habitat, environment etc. We didnโ€™t have a radio, but it didnโ€™t matter at all, as Mike with help from Venant were very good deciding where to go and at finding animals and birds. We often had them to ourselves, even in the very popular Masai Mara. All the safari drivers/guides exchanged info about animals when passing and before/after the drives. In theory we had unlimited game drives, in practice we had to bargain a bit for time. In most cases we got enough –ย 8 -9 hours a day, with two full-day drives in Masai Mara. We were promised some before-breakfast drives and I really regret we didnโ€™t insist more firmly on an additional early morning drive when the animals are up and most active! It didnโ€™t help that Piotr was not too keen on getting up so early. Our Masai Mara lodge (Mara Sentrim) was not inside the reserve, as we were told it would be, and for every drive we had to go to the reserve entrance on a super bad road and through a village losing a lot of time. Before booking we had multiple discussions about it, as the lodgeโ€™s location was not so clear, and they assured us it was a better choice and definitely inside the reserve. I wanted to stay near more centrally located Talek gate rather than Sekenai gate. The lodge was very nice. As a result we spent 3 days in Masai Mara Reserve instead of 4 and could notย have an early morning game drive on the last day, which was disappointing. This misrepresentation was the only negative score point. Our trip included a short visit to Maasai village (Masai Mara), a bit touristy but still interesting.

All in all the tour was very good, we had great time and saw many animals very close, everything we expected and more,ย except for the leopard. Venant and Mike were very friendly and easy to interact with.

 

Kenya day 1-2: on the way

We are in Doha at gate A4 waiting for our flight to Nairobi. It is a long way from Chicago to Nairobi: almost 20 hrs of flying time (9,800 miles) plus 3 hrs in Doha. All easy, just long.

Terminal A at DOH.

Chile day 9-10: Quebrada (Garganta) del Diablo and Santiago

 

Vary nice vacation added to business trip to Santiage de Chile: Pacific coast and cities, Atacama Desert, high Andes and volcanoes. We came very close to the corner of Bolivia (Laguna Colorada/Salar de Uyuni) visited in 2004.

Itinerary

July 9, Sunday
Chicago โžœ ORD (departure day before) โžœ (United ) โžœ IAH โžœ SCL โžœ (Turbus)โžœ Terminal de Buses Alameda โžœ Universidad de Santiago (Metro) โžœ Universidad de Chile station โžœ Calle Lodres โžœ Iglesia Luterana de la Santa Cruz (Alemana) โžœ La Alameda โžœPlaza de Armas โžœ CatedralMetropolitana Santiago โžœ Plaza Londres โžœ La Alameda โžœ Centro Gabriela Mistral โžœ Barrio Bellavista โžœ La Chascona โžœ Parque Metropolitano de Santiago/Cerro San Cristobal โžœ Plaza de Armas โžœ [@ Calle Lodres 36]

July 10, Monday
Calle Lodres โžœ (Metro) โžœ Terminal de Buses Alameda โžœ (Turbus) โžœ Valparaiso Terminal Rodiovario/ Pedro Montt โžœPlaza O’Higgins โžœ Parque Italia โžœ Plaza de la Victoria โžœ Plaza Civica โžœ Iglesia Santa Cruz โžœ Cerro Alegre โžœ Cerro Concepcion โžœ Passeo Yugoslavo/Palacio Baburizza โžœ Mirador Paseo Gervsoni/Casa Museo Mirador Lukas โžœ Iglesia Santa Cruz โžœ Plaza Sotomayor โžœ Muelle Prat โžœ Ascensor Artilleria/Cerro Altilleria โžœ Paseo 21 de majo โžœ Plaza Sotomayor โžœ Bellavista โžœ Terminal Rodiovario โžœ (Turbus) โžœ Santiago โžœ Calle Lodres

July 11, Tuesday
Calle Lodres โžœ Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile โžœ Lastarria โžœ La Alameda โžœ Cerro Santa Lucia โžœUniversidad โžœ Augustinas โžœ Calle Lodres

July 12, Wednesday
Calle Lodres โžœ (Transvip taxi) โžœ Aeropuerto โžœ (LATAM) โžœ Calama โžœ (Transvip) โžœ San Pedr โžœ Lascar โžœ Tour agencies Caracoles St โžœ Piedra del Coyote โžœ Valle de la Muerte (Marte) โžœ Valle de la Luna โžœ Duna Major โžœ [@ Calle Lascar 667]

July 13, Thursday
Calle Lascar โžœ Valle Arcoiris โžœ Yerbas Buenas Petroglyphs โžœ San Pedro โžœ Iglesia San Pedro โžœ Plaza de Armas โžœCaracoles โžœ Calle Lascar

July 14, Friday
Calle Lascar โžœ Laguna Miscanti โžœ Piedras Rojas โžœ Laguna Chaxa โžœ San Pedro โžœ Calle Lascar

July 15, Saturday
Calle Lascar โžœ Geyser El Tatio โžœ Putana wetlands โžœ Machuca โžœ San Pedro โžœ Pukara de Quitor โžœ San Pedro โžœCalle Lascar

July 16, Sunday
Calle Lascar โžœ Monjes de la Pacana โžœ Salar de Tara โžœ Monjes de la Pacana โžœ San Pedro โžœ Calle Lascar

July 17, Monday
Calle Lascar โžœ Quebrada del Diablo โžœ Lascar St โžœ (Transvip) โžœ transfer Calama โžœ (LATAM) โžœ to Santiago โžœ (Transvip) โžœ [@ Calle Lodres 36]

July 18, Tuesday
Calle Lodres โžœ La Moneda โžœPalacio de la Moneda โžœ Centro Cultural La Moneda โžœ Plaza de Armas โžœ Mercado Central โžœ Mapocho River/Parque Forestal โžœ Barrio Bellavista โžœJose Victorino Lastarria โžœ Calle Lodres โžœ (metro and bus) โžœSC โžœ (United) โžœ ORD (via IAH arrival the next day) โžœ Chicago.


On the last morning in San Pedro, we rented bikes and rode to Quebrada del Diablo (Garganta del Diablo, Devil’s gorge or throat), easy and flat. Another friendly dog accompanied us the whole trip. It was a great day, exploring on our own only second time while visiting Atacama, a great feeling after all the tours. Just few bikers on the road/trail. First we were riding along San Pedro river (crossing icy water twice each way) and than in a narrow canyon, exploring some side canyons as well. Winter weather was perfect: sunnny and 20โ„ƒ.

Biking to Quebrada del Diablo

Map combines 2 partially overlapping trails: to Pukara de Quitor and to Quebrada del Diablo.
Click on wikiloc logo to see more details

 

After lunch we went to Calama airport with Transvip again, on time and efficient, and returned to Santiago late at night. It was almost midnight so we took Transvip transfer to our AirBnB – cheaper than taxi, but equally fast and well organized.

On our last day in Chile we went to Palacio de la Moneda and Centro Cultural La Moneda where we visited Andy Warhol exhibition (Andy Warhol, Icono del Arte Pop). Then we met with Aldo again at Plaza de Armas. We had great seafood lunch in Mercado Central, walked along Mapocho river across Parque Forestal, and tried again to go to Cerro St. Cristobal, but waiting line for funicular was as long as on Sunday afternoon, so we just had ice cream and coffee, and later tried some aged pisco. This time snow-covered Andes were well visible from Santiago. We took metro and bus to the airport for our late flight back home.

Chile day 8: Salar de Tara

On the last full-day in San Pedro, we went to the highest and most beautiful Salar de Tara. We went with Flamingo again and this is the tour that didn’t work out. The road through the mountains was closed in the morning due to ice and many huge trucks transporting cars from the Pacific harbors were queuing up. We had breakfast in the desert and finally the road opened. We passed ALMA radio telescopes located at ~ 5,000 masl and had to wait a little more for plows to clear icy roads. We first climbed to 4,820 masl (in about an hour, 45 km) and then started descending towards Salar de Tara at 4,320 masl. We left main road near Salar de Aguas Calientes (fed by hot water springs). First stop was Monjes de la Pacana, rocks shaped by high winds (and the winds are really strong there).

Only few agencies go to Tara and that day there were 3 vans from Flamingo, 3 Latchir and 1 Ayllu. Our 3 vans were supposed to stay together and 2 much newer ones did, but they were loosing us frequently. Our van was older, unlike all other Flamingo tours that had a driver and guide this day our guide was also driving, and there were 11 tourists in spite of limit of 10. In the middle of nowhere we got a flat tire, not unexpected in a rocky desert. The other 2 vans were just in front of us at this moment and could see us, but they chose to drive off, leaving us alone. Something that should be a quick fix turned to be (almost) the end of our trip. There were no adequate tools in our van and the guide, Piotr and another guy tried for 2 hours to remove the wheel screws. Of course there was no phone signal there and the guide didn’t have a satellite phone. We were stuck at 4,400 masl. After more than 2.5 hours one of the other vans came empty to check what happened. The driver had right tools and changed the tire quickly, but our spare had a hole! Fortunately their spare was the right size. All other people from our van decided to return to San Pedro, but we wanted at least to get a glimpse of Tara and decided to go on the other van to pick up its passengers (there were only 6 or 7 ). We were very unlucky that we were in the old van, as the others had a wonderful tour, new cars and both drivers and guides! But the real problem was the extreme unprofessionalism and neglect by Flamingo, since we were supposed to ride in a convoy for this very reason (not to mention sending a van with no proper tools and broken spare tire for such a remote trip) and the problem could had been solved very quickly and everybody could have had a great tour. They left us on purpose because of some kind of conflict, and decided to act on that at our expens. We were very disappointed with Flamingo and, based on this experience, cannot recommend it. We met remaining van with 2 groups in it not far from the Salar and their guide agreed to go back for a quick visit, for which we were grateful. Our persistence paid off.

Salar de Tara is very beautiful, partially covered by salt crust, with the rest of water ice free, green algae, grass and bushes, yellow puna grass, surrounded by interesting rock formations (Cathedral rocks) and colorful volcanic mountains. There were many species of rare ducks including Pato puna (Puna teal) with a blue beak, as well as Andean geese (Guayata) and Andean coot (Tagua). We are glad we had a glimpse of the Salar as it at least partially saved the day. On the way back the mountain passes were icy again, we passed frozen Laguna Kepiaco (normally a wetland with waterfowl) and got very close to Volcano Licancabur.

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