August 12-17
Day 21
Long day. At 7 AM we had tickets for open gondola car for 8:15 AM train to Silverton in hand. Only the morning train takes hikers with backpacks. Plenty of time left for fresh baked bagels and coffee (2 XL for Piotr) at Durango Bagel (recommended).
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad built to support mining operations opened in 1882 now remains as tourist attraction (and transportation for hikers): 45 miles of track from Durango to Silverton along Animas River gaining more than 1 km in altitude, 3.5 hours. The first third of the way, tracks run along Hwy 550 (we already drove it on ☞ Day 8) through villages and fields, but the interesting part begins after Hermosa when they split with the railroad continuing along the river and through rough uninhabited terrain, stopping in the middle of nowhere 3 times to drop-off/pick-up tourists and hikers. With beautiful, sunny weather we had nothing else to do, but to hang out the windows enjoying the views and taking pictures. The river cuts across old volcanic rim flowing out of the caldera, making scenery and colors interesting. The experience was far better than we anticipated.
At Silverton station we debated: try to hitch a ride to Columbine Roadhouse or walk – we hiked 3.5 km via Rainbow Trail to finish the Colorado Trail adventure in style (rambling off-trail the last couple hundred meters). Reality bit immediately – the car would not start. Li-battery back-up starter did not work, but we were able to jump-start with help from nice guy running fruit and veggies stand at the Roadhouse. Joanna bought fresh stuff from them, we loaded backpacks and drove off. Not sure if the battery was damaged and low on fuel we decided to drive without shutting-off the engine to gas station in Ouray (our next destination) some 25 miles away. It is scenic road winding across mountains out of the caldera – Million Dollar Highway. Joanna enjoyed the views, Piotr avoided accidentally getting stuck on one of the narrow turns. The weather was cloudy but nice – smoke from wild fires was filling the valleys affecting mountain views and occasionally breathing (not too bad). Mountains bear scars, brighter colorfull patches, signs of past digging (a.k.a. mining).
Battery charged (it was just drained completely) and tank full – we were back in travel business. Checked-out a couple of places and settled down at Hot Springs Inn (recommended), nice and very well run motel on the river within walking distance to the springs and town center. We checked-out the hot springs (an option for next day) and visited some stores to pick-up groceries and beer from Ouray Brewery (recommended). Joanna prepared sandwiches with smoked salmon from Ouray Meat & Cheese Market for dinner. Full laundry. We considered staying second night but there was a lot of smoke in the afternoon.
Day 22-23
It took us almost until noon to pack everything, re-pack and load the car for the remainder of the trip, no longer needed camping gear tucked away. We decided to skip Ouray hot springs, nice but crowded and more like town pools. First stop, Box Canyon right in town for which Canyon Creek serves as the source of drinking water. Initially creek water was redirected for mining – a lot of infrastructure around here is related to mining activity in bygone era. Short walking loops to powerful waterfalls in narrow canyon and bridge above them, popular attraction but worth visiting
Hiking up to the Dinosaur Trackway was the highlight of the day. An easy but quite steep hike gaining 500 m in 3 km from the trailhead on the outskirts of Ouray. Slow going, but worth it. First for the “aerial” view of the town at the bottom of Uncompahrge River valley, seeking remnants of old mines on the opposite slope, to inspecting the tracks — the longest single dinosaur track known. We spent almost an hour following dinosaur steps – apparently the footprints were left by one animal wandering around. Very interesting.
We drove a short distance to Basecamp 550 near Ridgeway and stayed in one of the Casitas (recommended) – modern, new cottage with fully equipped kitchen. Great place to rest before even more relaxing time at nearby Orvis Hot Springs (recommended) the next day. We were lucky to follow recommendations by a few people – these hot springs are in a more natural setting, multiple pools in green park, not too crowded, good facilities, friendly staff – “clothing optional”. After good 3 hours at the springs and shower we were ready for camping again. We made it to Angel of Shavano Campground (recommended) stopping briefly on the way in Montrose to get groceries, at Blue Mesa Reservoir, Monarch Pass and Continental Divide, and for late lunch break somewhere. Easy driving (170 miles) on mostly empty Highway 50. We got the last available spot (Friday). Very short walk on Colorado Trail from trailhead next to our camp site and dinner.
Day 24-26
Piotr took the day off and rested at Angel of Shavano Campground – we decided to stay for second night, nice forest campground away from main highway with creek in the background (North Fork South Arkansas River). We moved to a better spot. Joanna hit Colorado Trail again on a solo hike, returning on different paths and partially off trail and practicing digital navigation, usually Piotr’s job: mountains, forest, meadows, cows, wildlife, some rain. 14 km (return) with 500 m total ascent on eastern shoulder of Mt Shavano.
Next morning we drove around Mt Shavano and Mt Antero (both 14000-footers) to St Elmo ghost town for bits oh history about mining pioneers building settlements and big companies building roads and laying railroad tracks in the mountains. We stopped on the way at Cascade Campground to capture last available spot (busy weekend again). In the afternoon we walked to Agnes Vaille Waterfall. Nice sightseeing day.
Slow driving day, just 100 miles – we are heading to Keystone with stops at Twin Lakes for a short scenic walk (5.5 km) with bonus osprey nest above our heads and in Leadville to get groceries and find local beer. We arrived at our friend’s apartment in Keystone in late afternoon. They greeted us with delicious dinner and invitation to a lovely chamber music concert.
