July 9-11
We are ready for more glaciers. Bear Glacier first, just a view from Cassiar Hwy across Strohn (glacier) Lake. In the afternoon of day 26, we took Glacier Hwy to Stewart with two more stops: at Clements Lake (scouting for possible camping on the way back) and Stewart Boardwalk (just to get a quick look at the tip of Misty Fjord and old port site). We drove through Stewart, crossed the border to Alaska, did not stop in Hyder. All quickly as we tried to get to Salmon Glacier before dark. Granduc Road climbs high above the valley floor. The road was build to gain acces to gold, copper and other metal mining sites (Premier Gold Mine, Granduc Copper Mine). Mining causes environmental damage, but the (good gravel) road provides access to glacier viewpoints. We were driving slowly, but still almost missed border crossing back to British Columbia. And soon we got first good views of the glacier. From Salmon Glacier Viewpoint (where it turns 90° right) we could see all the way up to the icefield.
It was decision time: look for wild camping spot or go back towards Hyder/Stewart. We drove a bit further up Granduc Rd and saw below two gravel flats divided by a stream, just between the road and lateral moraine. One of them turn out to be easily accessible and we had one of the most beatiful spots to overnight all to ourselves. It was magical. Joanna had enough energy to cross the stream and run over the moraine to sea the ice’s edge and glacial ponds. Piotr collected firewood. Dinner was late (it started to turn dark around 11 pm). We hoped to see the glacier in morning sun, but it was not to be. Clouds and passing rain. We drove a few more miles up the road and turned back to Hyder. This side trip was very worth taking.
Wild camping at Salmon Glacier with fancy food. Beers (strong just in case), no grizzly bears.
We visited Hyder, a very small town now, but with character and interesting past. Bought cod fish & chips at famous shack (the Bus) , which we ate later at Stewart Visitors Centre. Little time to look around. We drove all afternoon north on Cassiar Hwy towards Yukon Territory. Watching black bear and later arctic fox walking along the road cheered us up. After 400 km in mostly rainy weather we had no choice, but to rent a cabin on Dease Lake. Lucky as it was the only thing available for a reasonable price and it was getting late.
Cassiar Hwy is a major two-lane road, but not a big highway. Winding, with nice relaxing scenery, not much traffic. We drove 700 km of it (from Kitwanga to Yukon Territory); it was pleasant experience. The main stop of that day was at Boya Lake, it’s shallow water reflecting sunlight in vibrant blue colors between many small islands. We had time for short walk and lunch, checked out campground, but ended driving some more to Yukon. In hindsight, we shuld have stayed and kayaked on this beatiful lake. Later we found nice wild camping site off Alaska Hwy just west of Watson Lake to end the day.
