Ruta Panorámica runs 250 km from Maunabo in Southeast to Mayagüez in the West, but we had one day to cover only 60-km PR143-section between Barranquitas and Adjuntas. We first drove quickly to Cidra and then followed PR172 and PR156 (already interesting) to Mirador Suñé (Barranquitas) for a quick look at Cañón San Cristóbal. A short drive later we joined Ruta Panorámica proper. The road winds along the central mountain range (Cordillera Central) most of the time staying on top of the hills/ridges with great views on surrounding forest, fields and small villages. The green had many shades from bright and yellowish in full sun to dark and bluish when the sky was overcast. We made several stops on the way: in Barranquitas, at a small store looking for some food (not much choice), at Al Horno Bakery & Coffee Shop for lunch break for good coffee and sweets (recommended), at Mirador Orocovis-Villalba, at Charco de los Suspiros to hike to Torre de Toro Negro (5.5-km loop), and at El Banquillo (best views). We followed PR10/ PR123 to PR111 in Utuado and then to comfortable Mi Casita (recommended) with wonderful hosts, our base for 3 night, across the road from Capilla Perpetuo Socorro just off PR611 (winding and narrow).
Excellent practice of driving on narrow, winding roads with many potholes – all day just 135 km, not rushed. We had enough time for hikes which proved excellent: a short and well maintened Vereda Suñé to see a deep Cañón San Cristóbal and a longer trail in Toro Negro rainforest, much less popular than El Yunque. All tourist amenities (information, bathrooms, picknic areas) were closed at all viewpoints and trails but parking and limited number of trails were available.
Cañón San Cristóbal, view from Mirador Suñé
View from Torre de Toro Negro
Next day we made a trip to Rio Tanamá to kayak through Cueva El Portillo and then walk in the river and swim to Cueva Del Arco. The kayaking part was with a large group, but the second part was just us and our guide. We just wished the river exploration and swimming part was longer. The tour was very well organized by ☞ Batey Adventures (recommended ☞ TA review). Edwin, our guide, turn out to be also a gifted naturalist with good knowledge of local nature and very easy to interact with. After the tour, we walked across the street (PR111) from Batey’s office to Caguana Ceremonial Indigenous Heritage Center to learn about Taino past. Interesting archeological site and small botanical garden (recommended). We continued west on PR111 to Lares to try rosted pork at Lechonera Rancho T (very good), Piotr explored Heladería Lares and we walked around the town center to check out some murals. When we came back to Mia Casite we finally got to see coqui that we heard everywhere, all the time.
