Kenya, day 19-23: Mt Kenya trek

For the next leg of our trip we had crew switch set-up in Chogoria: hiking crew (guide, cook and three porters) for Mt Kenya trek and safari crew (driver/guide and cook) for Meru National Park. All arranged by Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions  (recommended).

More on our tour operator Mount Kenya Climbing Expeditions

We were very happy with everything on our Sirimon-Chogoria trekking part of the trip, except for inflatable sleeping mats – we took 3  and all of them had holes. The porters tried to fixed them, but it didn’t work.  Luckily it meant only one night on three deflated sleeping mats for one of us. We were quite upset about it at the time and urged the company to use a different more reliable source of rental equipment in the future. The guide should also check all the equipment carefully before the hike. There was no way we could do it ourselves. The tent was very good and warm, but someone had to bring it while we were already hiking because it was forgotten. Because of the rain, we slept in the tent (on deflated mats) only one night.

We really appreciated the flexibility of being able to change the itinerary on the run. Our guide was able to communicate by phone and make all the changes/arrangements. We wanted to ascend slower, but because of a downpour on day one, soaked the ground and us, it was not practical. We skipped an intermediate camp (Liki North, not the best spot to tent in wet weather we were told) and went to a higher elevation already on day two to sleep in a hut (Shiptons). The following day our crew was reluctant to stay at a higher camp (Upper Simba Tarn, 4,600 masl) closer to the Lenana summit, our first choice,  but considering the bad  mats (we didn’t know it yet at the time) and cold, dump weather it was good we didn’t stay there. We made it to the summit  (in clouds) from Shipton’s, no problem. The guide, cook and porters were all very good and well organized, the food was good, warm and plentiful (although mostly fried) with fresh fruits etc – amazing on the mountain. Everything was on time and the guid adjusted hiking tempo to our abilities and frequent photo stops. He knew well what he was doing. The hike itself, landscape and nature, is of course exceptional. We met no other hikers on the trail, just  a few other parties at camp sites.

The Meru trip was also good. We appreciated the driver/guide and cook coming to Chogoria the night before to start the second part of the trip earlier in the morning the next day. Another good adjustment on the go to make good use of our time after we made it to Chogoria earlier than planned. They were both very good and the cook followed our request to avoid fried food. He made delicious stews etc – probably the best food on our entire Kenya trip (better than in lodges in other parks).  We liked the cottages ( Murera Bandas near the park entrance) very much, although it would probably be better to stay deeper in the park (Kinna Cottages), closer to the areas with more animals. There was no hot water in the shower, but it was not big deal as it was hot in Meru. Our room was large and comfortable. The porch at our cabin was our kitchen and dinning room with nice view at dense vegetation along the nearby river, visited all the time by monkeys and birds, and buffalos passing by within feet from our windows one night. Very relaxing rest time between safaris. There were no other visitors staying at the bandas. The safari van was well prepared and we drove to different corners of the park. There are fewer animals in Meru and they seem to be more shy than in other parks, but no tourists at all. It’s a pity people don’t come there. The early morning drive (before breakfast) on the last day was the best. Our crew made a good run to find us a family of elephants to keep their promise. We made it back to Nairobi safely.

We really appreciate the flexibility and everybody’s efforts to make us happy – we had very good time.

 
We decided to take Sirimon – Chogoria Mt Kenya route –  it is the longest route, but with 6 days/5 nights we planned to go slow to adjust to the altitude and enjoy the nature. Nature however brought rain and we had to adjust our plan: go directly to Shiptons Camp (for two nights) rather than spending one night at an intermediate Liki North Camp (tent). The change gave us an easy day for a short acclimatization hike to Hausberg Col. Because of wet weather, we stayed in huts rather than tent, except for one night at Mintos Camp (no hut there). We also asked to be picked up at Chogoria Gate which saved as quite a bit of walking, so we could go slower, but still end up in Chogoria by the end of day 5. This way we were able to leave earlier next morning and have more time for an afternoon game drive at Meru NP. The hike was ~47 km long with 3100 total ascent.

Mt Kenya Sirimon-Chogoria route

Click on wikiloc logo for more info

Mt Kenya trail profile (Google Earth Pro) 

Click on image to see full-size

Trek day 1

First, we drove some 200 km (5 hours) from Nairobi (1,800 masl) to Nanyuki (1,900 masl). After lunch and trek briefing we drove 25 km (45 minutes) more to Sirimon Gate (2,650 masl) and then walked  ~9 km (3.5 hours), with one hour in heavy rain and hail, to Old Moses Camp (3,300masl). The road to Old Moses was paved not long ago, which was a surprise (we do not like hiking on paved roads), but it was easy, steady hike through bamboo, rosewood and giant heather forest (did not see any large animals), up until we got caught in rain – now it was easier to walk on paved road rather than muddy trail.  Luckily, we were prepared and had everything in our backpacks double packed in garbage bags, but still our backpacks and whatever we were wearing got wet. There was no way we could pitch our tents at campsite which turned into wetland, we stayed in the hut. We had warm food and comfortable bunk beds, started drying our stuff.

Trek day 2

From Old Moses Camp we walked ~13 km (8 hours) to Shiptons Camp (4,236 masl). With change of plans, we knew it was going to be a long day, but we could afford it and there was no reason for us to rush. The trail is easy, but gains 900 m to over 4,000 masl, so we needed time to ease acclimatization. Scenery was beautiful, exotic (for us) plants: giant lobelias (Lobelia deckenii), ostrich plume lobelias (Lobelia telekii) and giant groundsels (Dendrosenecio) endemic to Mt. Kenya, and birds. Weather was not too bad (no rain, some drizzle). We crossed Ontulili and Liki rivers, descended into Mackinder Valley, passed Mackinder Caves before arriving at Shiptons. On the way, we got a good view of the valleys and a glimpse of the rocks high up. At Moses and Shiptons, hiking crews had their own quarters with kitchen to prepare meals served in large dining rooms. At Shiptons  small birds and rock hyraxes, and of course mice, came to dining room looking for snacks. Food was  good, fresh and plentiful.

Trek day 3

From Shiptons Camp we hiked 3 km loop (2.5 hours) to Hausberg Col (4,591 masl) with  return via Kami Camp (4,439 masl). We started the day around 6 am excited about open view of the Mountain in rising Sun. It was easy and slow day good for acclimatization, which we did not start until 9 am. Good practice on scree. Decent views. In the afternoon we walked towards Lower Simba Tarn, not too far –  just to keep muscles warm, and to get ready for Lenana next morning. We felt the altitude a bit. Our shoes finally dried.

Trek day 4

From Shiptons we hiked up ~2 km (almost 4 hours) to Point Lenana (4,985 masl), then ~4 km (6 hours) down to  Mintos Camp (4,290) via Simba Col (4,630 masl). We started hiking shortly after 5 am in the dark with temperature a bit below freezing. We warmed up quickly when the sun came out behind the clouds and we hit steep scree. With clouds, but no precipitation, we kept pushing towards the summit hoping the Sun burns off clouds by the time we get there. It got windy and cold again near the summit, visibility was only a couple hundred meters or less at times. Rocks at the summit were covered with ice. We hanged around the summit for a while taking pictures, but without good views we started descending shortly. The weather improved and was quite nice, although changing quickly, by the time we made it to Mintos Camp. Walked around near Hall Tarns before dinner. Piotr slept on three deflated (punctured) rented sleeping mats (luckily just one night), but tent was good and warm.

Trek day 5

From Mintos Camp we walked down ~15 km (5.5 hours) to Chogoria Gate (2,950 masl). On the way, we made 1 km side hike from Roadhead (3,200 masl) to Nithi Waterfalls. After lunch we drove 28-30 km (1 hour) to Chogoria (1,540 masl) where we stayed for the night at Lizlo Hotel.  It was really nice downhill hike along Gorges Valley with great views into the valley and towards Lake Michaelson, and back towards the Mountain which was still hidden in clouds. The weather was perfect, warm and partially sunny. We could observe changes in landscape and vegetation as we were descending to lower altitudes: from alpine to equatorial/tropical.  Moorland, big trees, lichens and mosses, cloud forest at times. Driving from the gate to Chogoria was too fast to see much, but we thought it would be nice to hike through the forest part of the park as well. We parked at Lizlo Hotel, went for a walk along main street and met with our tour manager to talk everything over. They made really good effort with all the changes to make our trip better. There is cell connection in many spots on the Mountain (if you know where to find them) and we were able to make new arrangements while  hiking. Our safari driver/guide and cook arrived day earlier from Nairobi, so that we could go to Meru and start safari earlier next day.